Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Track Bar Bracket Differences From 05 - 07 Versus 08 - 10?
Jun 16, 2017
Looking for pictures of the differences between the track bar brackets from 05-07 vs 08-10?
I'm finding lots of conflicting info online, some saying 05-16 are the same, 05-10 are the same 05-07 are the same, ect.....
So what is the year breaks and difference between them all?
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the options i am looking at are either a 2008-10 Diesel 250 or 2011' Diesel 250. It will be a weekend only truck and only towing light loads every once in a while.
My question is which motor is better? the 6.4 or 6.7?
I don't have a clue which is better, but all of my friends debated about this at my house this weekend for a few hours, so i am just looking for some info i guess.
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I currently own another brand of a one ton, SRW, diesel pick up. Use the truck to tow a 35' 5th wheel. I'm considering a new truck this spring, & it WILL be a brand change. I was looking at the tow ratings in the March towing guide in Trailer Life mag. & the 5th wheel ratings for a F- 250, & F-350 Super cab, SRW, long box Diesel are the same, 15,900lbs, with a 3:31, or a 3:55 rear. So the question is what is the difference between the 250, & 350?
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2015 F350, Want to do a leveling kit. Are the spacers good enough or should I do the track bar relocation too?
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What are the main differences between the F-350 and the F-450?
I see now that you can get the wide track front axle on the F-350 as well.
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So, currently I have a 2006 6.0 that's been bulletproofed with a 4.5" lift, 35" tires, and a few other things. I've debated going to an Ecoboost F-150, but I really don't want to give up the payload and towing capacity of the F-250.
The big gripe I have about my F-250 is dealing with diesel issues in the winter and the stiff ride and wouldn't mind a little quieter engine. Besides that I love the big truck. My question is if the 6.4 or 6.7 trucks are better about not gelling and not starting in the winter compared to the 6.0? I've read that the ride quality on the 6.4 and the 6.7 is much better than the 6.0 truck.
I've actually debated just getting a dually F-350 and getting another car to drive when I don't need the truck. I'd never have to worry about too heavy or big of a load and then wouldn't have to worry about driving a big truck into tight places either.
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We all know the sway bar end link problems in the early superdutys. Several years ago I installed energy suspension bushings and thought the problems were gone. Lately it started clunking again. I tightened the bolts with a breaker bar and it worked. but now it making noise again. I purchased a set of mevotech end links. Upon installation I found the problem.
Over the years of clunking the bolt hole on the upper driver side is no longer round. It has become oval shaped. I read a couple threads on here about this problem. I can't drill them out as the mevotechs have studs not bolts. Can I get the mounting bracket that bolts to the frame. Its a triangle shaped piece that the end link stud goes through. I have tried searching for it online to no avail. Whats it called?
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Got the death wobble, had everything replaced. Wobble was worse, upgraded track bar. Then no wobble but bad bump steer. Put on new OEM track bar.
Ok but still if I hit a hole on the interstate I get death wobble and little mini wobbles on any bump. What is the permanent fix for this other than selling the truck?
2011 6.7L FWD Lariat, upgraded exhaust and Def removed.
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I'm trying to decide if I need a f250 diesel or to just get another f150. I will be pulling a car trailer a couple times a year with a 78 ford f150 with a 460 in it and the rest of the time it will just be a daily driver. The problem I'm having is that the truck weights I'm guessing some where in the 5500 to 6000 lb range not really sure. I live out in Colorado so I will have to drive through the mountains pulling the truck to different mud races and don't want to have to over work the f150.
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I read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
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My wife and I recently retired. We are going to buy a used F250 PowerStroke and a tag-a-long camper that weights around 5000lbs. I have heard to stay away from the 6.0 diesel. Looking for info as to the good and bad points on the 6.0. and 7.3.
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Using a gasket on the rear differential? How did you like it?
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I have a 99 F250 Super Duty 4x4. The u-bolt bracket on the front passenger side has rusted through and broken in two places. It has broken right at the hole for one of the u-bolts, which then broke the sway bar bracket off (so the sway bar is no longer attached on the passenger side). Also, the track bar bracket has broken off.
Is there a replacement bracket that can be purchased? Or does it need to be fabricated from scrap? The u-bolt bracket, sway bar bracket, and track bar bracket are all one whole piece. It is welded to the axle, so it would need to be cut off. Then the new bracket would need to be welded back on.
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I know on certain years the F250 and F350 really weren't any different. Same axles etc. I guess the F350's got an extra overload spring?
I am more curious than anything what separated an F250 from F350 in this year range.
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I don't do much city driving with my rig. And when I do, I head straight to the back of any parking lots I encounter. But I decided to take the ol' girl to a big empty church lot today to get a feel for its turning radius.
I found that it makes a tighter left turn vs. a right turn. And the difference is 6-8 feet. I repeated this many times. Steering wheel was fully locked in both directions.
Is this normal? Others experienced this? It drives straight and true and the alignment was given a clean bill of health not too long ago. Weird.
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1999 F350 4x4 dually. Replacing brakes front and back. Rotors, Pads, and hoses. On the left front put rotor back on and torqued down hub nuts on rotor. Then caliper mounting bracket wouldn't fit back between mounting bracket and rotor. Loosened the hub nuts on rotor, and fit mounting bracket in place. Then torqued down the hub nuts again, and rotor rubs on mounting bracket and rotor/hub won't turn.
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I have a 2006 F250 and my 7pin and 4 pin connectors are just hanging loose. I'm not sure what happened to the factory bracket. What is the part number for this bracket? Also, where does it mount to? I looked under the truck and couldnt tell where the factory one mounts.
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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