Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Torque For Differential Cover Bolts
Feb 15, 2016
Torque on the differential cover bolts, 2016 F250?
View 6 RepliesTorque on the differential cover bolts, 2016 F250?
View 6 RepliesI read a reference to the front brake caliper bracket bolts being one time use torque to yield and must be replaced every time they are loosened. Is this true?
This is on my 06 F-350 in my Sig.
Bolts breaking on the exhaust manifold. If so why isn't ford doing a recall on this problem I have a F350 V10 90K miles and 3 on the top drivers side are missing not sure on the passenger side. Is this a problem with all the ford engines I have never had this problem with any other truck or car I have owned.
View 5 RepliesI was trying to determine how to read the metal tag on my rear differential in an attempt to figure out what rear gear I have.
The plate reads: "3 V 414 F" on the top line and "731053L03" on the bottom line.
It's a 2004 Super Duty 4x4 Crew Cab XLT with the 5.4 gas.
I've got the dreaded broken exhaust manifold studs on my 2004 F250 V10. I don't drive it much (just 50,000 miles in 10 years) and confess I've ignored the hissing for quite a while. Is there really a permanent fix for these broken studs? Or should I expect to be replacing broken studs every 2 or 3 years?
If there is a permanent fix what is it? Special studs? Special manifold? I want to keep this truck a long time and don't want to be replacing these studs every few years.
2002 Ford 7.3L 2WD 200K miles ....My starter was making a grinding noise and the bolts had backed out. Wound up replacing the starter all together. Seemed to work for a little while and then went back to making the grinding noise again. I took the starter back and got a warranty replacement and took it to the shop last week to have it installed with lock-tite. It worked perfectly for a few days and then went back to grinding again yesterday afternoon. Why it is still doing it? I bought a new Duralast Gold 5154 starter from Autozone.
View 1 RepliesThe rear differential is leaking on my 2000 f350, i am going to replace the gasket. When I take the cover off will all the gears pop out or are they held in? Also how much differential fluid does it take?
View 8 RepliesWhat torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
View 7 RepliesI am getting ready to do my both differentials and need to know if I have limited slip or not on the rear, what is the best way to tell?
View 5 RepliesI need to replace the gear oil in the rear differential on my Ford F -350 and was wondering what the best sealer to use.
View 7 RepliesUsing a gasket on the rear differential? How did you like it?
View 11 RepliesI have a (new to me about 40 days ago) 2004 F250 SD Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 6.0 diesel. 137,xxx miles.
I thought Id gotten a good "deal" on this truck when Id bought it however the last 40 days have been very expensive. The "stealership" I bought the truck from was on a 35mph rd and I couldn't test drive it at highway speeds. So I bought the thing "knowing" there were a few "minor" sniggles wrong... however once about 15 miles from the dealership/stealership and on a highway, the real fun began.
I had a terrible shake, shimmy and groan/whine at speed no matter if the truck was in gear or not.
Since that time ive repaired/replaced:
1) Both front hubs/bearings
2) Both front hub locks
3) Both front brakes and calipers
4) 4 New Hankook tires
5) Ford Dealership Diesel engine service/lube (essentially an expensive oil change)
6) Ford Dealership transmission service
7) Drained (with a siphon) and refilled the rear differential + OEM Ford friction mod.
Ive eliminated problem after problem after problem with this thing.... and yes, the truck does get better with each repair HOWEVER.... Ive still had this groan/whine from the rear end of the truck and a rumble from starting at a dead stop despite my changing out the gear oil in the rear diff.
So I take it today to a local shop (that I trust/sort of) for a 2nd opinion. Their technician takes the truck out for a test run and comes back in 10 min saying he has no clue but the sound was annoying and he'd need to put it on a lift if I could wait.
I saw the truck go up... a few parts get wiggled, some head scratching, saw the truck go down, watched another tech jump in and 2 techs run it out for a test drive.
When it came back, I watched the truck go up again on the lift... this time however they just lifted the rear and with one guy in a pit the other revved the motor. I watched as the wheels spun. A few minutes later both techs came in and said my "rear differential was shot".
They pulled the diff mag plug which was caked in metal deposits. It looked the same when I pulled it off the first time and did the fluid change (yes i cleaned off the plug before putting it back). I had seen differentials (in the past) have deposits like that before on plugs but the units were still good and such deposits were considered casualty of wear and tear.
However im being told the rear end is shot.. When I inquired about just replacing the internals of the diff, it was a simple bolt in/bolt out job.
I have a 2009 F-250 4x4 with a 5.4L and a manual transmission. I am looken to get more low end torque and a few more horses. I am thinking about starting out with a programmer and/or headers. Is this a good or bad idea.
View 6 RepliesOn my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
What torque value is in foot pounds that Ford recommends for the 10mm bolts that attach the overload spring bumper brackets to the frame on a 2014 F250?
View 5 RepliesI finally got around to installing a transmission temp sensor in our '06 F250, and I have noticed today that it seems to be at 180 degrees regularly driving around town unloaded. It has been around 80-85 degrees outside today. We just got this truck about a month ago, so I'm still getting used to its little quirks. On our old 7.3 with a 4R100, it wasn't at all unusual to see 180 on a day like today around town. Is this normal on a TorqShift?
View 13 RepliesOur F-450 with 102000 miles lost both turbos also broken exhaust manifold bolts. This truck carries tools fuel tank and sometimes skid loader on trailer. Heard lots of bad things about 6.4 liter motor now first hand experience. Asked dealer if 6500.00 bill could be reduced since so close to 100000 mile warranty and was told nothing could be done. Can not afford to sell truck now also have two other Ford F-250s newest one 2012. Is there any other approach that could be taken to get some relief from this expense.
View 14 RepliesFor starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
View 14 RepliesFinally finishing up my 2001 F250SD 4X4 project. Decided to pull down the front axle to replace the dust seals. I've got everything apart including the large knuckle seals. Tried to pull the passenger side axle out but it only moves about an inch to an inch and a half before it stops. Took off the differential cover to look for damage or something obvious but I don't see anything wrong. The axle is moving within the splines of the spider gear but that's it. Stumped and sitting on jacks!
View 14 RepliesWondering what difference in tire pressure are you running front to rear. I have a 1999 CC LB 4x4 with a v10 with 180k on it and have always had to run lower on the rear with a empty bed. Most of the time I'm empty. If I don't the rear centers wear a lot quicker.
I ran KO's most of those miles and recently switch to Geolanders. The tires are 315x75x16. BTW the geolanders are doing great. A better rain tire, smoother and much more quiet. 6k on them so far and very little wear. Time will tell, I would get 55-60k out of the KO's.
Replacing EGR cooler/ EGR valve. Are there torque specs going back together with the EGR system? or is there a forum that has all the torque specs id need to complete the job.
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