Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Torque Shift Temperature Limit?
Aug 27, 2013
I finally got around to installing a transmission temp sensor in our '06 F250, and I have noticed today that it seems to be at 180 degrees regularly driving around town unloaded. It has been around 80-85 degrees outside today. We just got this truck about a month ago, so I'm still getting used to its little quirks. On our old 7.3 with a 4R100, it wasn't at all unusual to see 180 on a day like today around town. Is this normal on a TorqShift?
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I have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
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I was bummed that my 2011 King ranch F450 would not show the actual speed limit for the road I was on unless I had a destination entered.
I was trying to find how to delete an address and I stumbled on to the fact that on the "info" screen (an "i" with a squire box around it) showed the speed limit for the road I was on.
It's not a convenient as having it displayed on the map screen, but at least it is there.
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Any limited number of lights the factory trailer harness on the truck can tolerate? I'm looking to add some extra running lights on my trailer, also want to put a couple of lights on each running board on the truck, they will be tied in with the trailer harness since it is not monitored by the BCM. I did a search on this a few different ways and couldn't find anything.
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What torque setting I should use for lug nuts on a 2000 F-350 dually?
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I have a 2009 F-250 4x4 with a 5.4L and a manual transmission. I am looken to get more low end torque and a few more horses. I am thinking about starting out with a programmer and/or headers. Is this a good or bad idea.
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On my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
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What torque value is in foot pounds that Ford recommends for the 10mm bolts that attach the overload spring bumper brackets to the frame on a 2014 F250?
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Torque on the differential cover bolts, 2016 F250?
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Replacing EGR cooler/ EGR valve. Are there torque specs going back together with the EGR system? or is there a forum that has all the torque specs id need to complete the job.
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I have a bone stock (other than exhaust) F-250 SD, 6.0 auto, 185k miles. I have a substantial vibration when the torque converter locks - about 50-55 mph. Once the transmission warms up (i.e. 4-5 miles from a cold start) the vibration goes away and the transmission performs flawlessly. Backing out of the throttle and allowing the TC to unlock makes the vibration go away, as does shifting into neutral. There is no noise, just a vibration that will shake the whole truck. Transmission fluid looks good, and showing full. Have had the truck about 4 months, and have not flushed or replaced the filters on transmission.
I've seen a couple of similar threads on vibrations, but not one where the vibration will completely go away. I'm thinking replace the torque converter but wanted to get more information from the experienced experts that know these 5R110s better.
2007 F-250 King Ranch 6.0 PSD, 5R110W, 4" Turbo Back, Otherwise bone stock, 185k.
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When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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We've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
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Switch out a 5.4 in a F-250 4X4 4 my neighbor now I have a noise like fan blades hitting coming from the torque converter it goes and comes and hits good in reverse...
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What are the torque specs for the crankshaft,cylinder heads and camshafts for a 2005 f550 v10 6.8?
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With the colder temperature, I noticed the temperature for the transmission is not getting up to normal as quickly as before. Yesterday I switched to gauge mode and it showed 145 degrees after 20 miles of driving at an outside temperature of 42 degrees. What the minimum temperature should be? It's not showing a check engine light and shifts good.
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My 2000 f250 7.3 4x4 with a 4r100 tranny. I was towing my boat home and noticed the temperature rising from roughly 140 all the way to 160 over a short distance. As soon as I pulled up to the house I noticed I was dumping my transmission fluid. Went to a mechanic and he fixed the leaking on the transmission by replacing some seals and changed out my rear main seal while the tranny was out.
I also went ahead and replaced the torque converter so I would not have to do it in the future. went to pick up my truck and noticed that on the way home the temperature was still rising. On a normal day here in Texas my tranny temperature was about 125 While towing it would creep up to about 143. Now, just getting home it got up to 180. What could be causing the temp to run this high and keep climbing?
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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My truck has a bit of an interesting trait. Unless it's just about freezing, my transmission is just about always at operating temperature. If it's 50*F outside and I start the truck, the Trans temp is smack dab in the middle. If it's 30*F outside it starts just a little above cold then is "warmed up" when I drive it down my short street block, which ain't right.
All the rest of the time, it's always reading middle of the bar temperature. My old 5.4L never did this. My 7.3L does. Best I can tell is it's a fault in the temperature sensor for the transmission. I don't have a scan gauge yet to get the readings but will be getting one. Just need to know where the sensor is at so I can have a starting point.
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