My 5.4 is ticking loudly at idle. It's from the passenger wheel well. It doesn't seem to speed up with rpm. Maybe tick goes away with throttle? I did recently change plugs. So maybe coil pack? Cam phaser? Exhaust manifold? How do I troubleshoot?
View 8 RepliesSo my truck drove great to ocean city MD this weekend. Power is perfect again, feels really tight. But now I have having to additional problems.
1) My alt light had been flickering a couples times a month. Last night it came on and stayed on. Lots of threads about this I Know!
I am hoping that cleaning and tightening the connections will do the trick since the alt is a Bosch with only 25k miles or so. But I want to order a rebuild kit:
is my alt a 3G or a 3G8429?
F SERIES | Alternator Starter Rebuild Kits
2) I started to have a ticking at idle. Its very regular and sounds like its coming from the passenger side valve cover. In random threads I have read about timing chain guides breaking and loose rocker arms.
Most of the time its 3 ticks in a row and then a pause. Should I be pulling the valve cover? Think I need to R&R the timing chain? I will post a video later!
I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
Diesel truck starts fine. Idles up in cold. Runs fine. Sitting in cab I hear a random clicking. This sound comes and goes. Driving down the highway at 70 it will do it. After an hour or so it won't do it any more. If I shut the truck off and start it again the random clicking will resume it comes and goes? Where to start looking. It sounds like the click from dead batteries but the batteries will turn over engine and start with no problems.
View 7 RepliesWhen decelerating from 40-50+ mph, I sometimes hear a ticking sound, like a clock winding down. The ticking gets slower and slower and then when I'm around 10 mph, the ticking abruptly stops and I hear and feel a loud/strong clunk.
It doesn't happen every time I decelerate, but it does happen a few times every time I drive it. Once in a while it will happen when slowing down from slower speeds, but only after I've been in stop and go traffic for a while.
I read about the slip joint grease problem, so I tried that, but my problem is still there. It's a manual transmission, 4wd, 5.4L F-250 Super Duty standard cab, long bed.
I'm assuming its a valve.
2004 F250 with 5.4L. 128,000 miles. Oil changed every 4K but its my work truck. She works hard for a living towing landscape trailers 98% of the time.
When the engine is first cranked, there is a ticking sound from the right side. Its quite noticeable but only does this until I get going. Once I get to driving, it fades away. If I turn the engine off and let it sit for a little while, when I start it, the ticking is back again. As long as I keep it running, it stays quiet.
If this is a valve or rocker arm, how big of a repair is it? What happens if I don't deal with it until the winter (off-season)?
I've tried Marvel Mystery Oil and now with this oil change, I have Rislone in there. Both have made no difference.
I was having a ticking problem with the engine under load so I went ahead and did my manifold gaskets. I had a new 5.4 put in my 02 f350 last winter, and at that time I also installed gibson shorty headers. The tech had to plug the egr port with a pipe plug. But any ways, I pulled the headers last month and I used Percy's aluminum header gaskets. I also took the time to wire wheel all of the flanges and the mating surfaces. The one on the ball and socket flange was leaking on the passenger side, so I permanently sealed it with some 1800* epoxy.
The leak seemingly went away for a week or so, but it has returned. I sprayed down all of the mating surfaces with soapy water, but I can't find the leak. It only happens when accelerating or when i downshift to go uphill. So, at my wits end, I went to try and retorque my spark plugs. I've done half of them so far. Haven't driven it yet, but i was curious as to others thoughts on the subject. This leak cannot be heard at idle, nor at any RPM while in park or neutral. It is only apparent when driving. Definitely sounds like an exhaust leak to me.
With the front hubs locked locked I get a ticking noise out of the front axle almost like there is rocks in the hubcaps. But unlock the hubs and the noise goes away. Also, if I put it in 4 wheel with the hubs unlocked i get no noise.
View 12 RepliesIve been looking around for Pickups for a wile now and found one (at the manheim auto auction) and it is a beauty. Crew Cab Long Box lariant with every factory option available for a 2008 6.8L Triton V10 truck. AND it only has 64,000 miles on it!!!
Pre Sale Inspection told us the truck has the upper engine tick that is heard sometimes in the V10. Doesn't seem to at all affect drive ability. Block announcement would be Green light, yellow light for upper engine noise. Truck has been priced accordingly. Look at what MMR is.
What this is, id like to put an offer in on the truck but if at 19,600 dollars if i am gonna have to do a lot of motor work or put a new motor in it i dont see it being worth it.
Just noticed a ticking sound coming from my engine... just turned 160,000. Hoping nothing serious...
View 11 RepliesI have a v10 ticking on drivers side when I first take off in it. It doesn't do it idling and stops after you drive about a mile. I just had ford tune it up before this started so I took it back to have them check the plugs and they said it was a rod! Didn't sound right too me but I did check manifold bolts and they all was in place. Also if it was a rod would the noise go away???
View 6 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 5.4 that has a ticking/knocking noise. After about 30-60 seconds of first starting the truck in the morning, the ticking/knocking noise appears. It sounds like its coming through the exhaust system and seems to be louder under the front passenger side wheel well. When I rev the engine up, it seems to go away. Does this engine have a cam phaser? Could it be timing chain slap?
View 11 RepliesI have a tick in my 2001 V10, 190,000 (mostly easy) miles. I've changed oil/filter regularly at 3,000 mile intervals using Valvoline 5W20.
The tick seems to be on the passenger side of the engine, and is loudest when the engine is cold. It follows engine speed. The tick seems to be loudest as the engine transitions from acceleration to deceleration when I lift the throttle--I've NOT seen that posted before.
So, an exhaust manifold leak seems to be the most obvious? I installed a Banks Power Pack with Torque Tube headers in 2009 (about 90,000 miles ago) using thread lock compound on the supplied bolts and torqued to the instructions--I don't' remember the torque setting, but will look it up. I've listened to each exhaust port with a mechanic's stethoscope, all I hear is a smoothly running rotating assembly! Same result with the stethoscope on either side of the front cover (for timing chain slap.) NO tick through the stethoscope! I plan to check all the header bolts' torque this weekend, but don't really expect to find a problem. I will also scoot under the truck and recheck all the exhaust pipe clamps.
I've also listened to all the injectors--two of them (#3 and #4) were noticeably quieter than the other eight. But, none of them stood out as being particularly noisy. I've seen a couple of threads here that asked what a normal injector should sound like, but never an answer. How they should sound?
I've listened to each coil. I can hear a slight arc on #3. I believe the spring in the boot is not seated on the coil tab correctly (happened before.) I will correct that this weekend also. Nothing sounded like a loose plug, though I don't really know what that would sound like with the stethoscope.
What else could/should I check to avoid removing the valve/cam covers? (For cam follower or rocker trouble). I don't mind doing that, but don't want to go to the trouble and then find it wasn't necessary. I may spin on a Motorcraft filter (I'm just 800 miles into the last oil change now, I usually use Fram) but the tick stays with me until the engine is normal operating temperature, so I don't think it is from bleed back.
My 2004 f250 5.4 Triton has been making a sort of ticking noise, it almost sounds like my lifters have a little play in them but it also sounds like an exhaust manifold leak. They both would sound about the same and it seems to be getting a little worse of gas mileage than before. Also, the check engine light was on from Saturday into Sunday night then it shut off Sunday night and hasn't been back.
View 14 Replies2002 Ford F-250 5.4l ... What is the difference in sound between a lifter tick and an exhaust leak? I have a ticking noise, almost sounds more like a puff of air noise, it only makes the noise when I push the accelerator and is coming from the right side. Noise is most noticeable if I put my head under the passenger side front fender. I am guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere between the heads at cat but just wondering about the difference in sound. I'd think if it were the lifters they would tick at idle, right? The truck sounds great at idle (after doing a tune up) I just want to get rid of this annoying tick when I accelerate.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F250 4wd with a 5.4 and 6 spd and 175,000 miles. Yesterday I came out to start it and noticed it had a ticking noise coming from underneath. According to the stock gauge it had normal oil pressure and the oil looked nice and clean and was full. I checked it while running and was able to verify that it is coming from the bottom oil pan/bell housing area. Before anybody says exhaust leak, I just put on JBA headers a few months ago and verified it wasn't an exhaust leak. I was assuming it was a rod bearing so I figured I would let it get to operating temp and see what happens. Once it started getting warm it started getting quiet and finally it just stopped once it hit full operating temp. Took it for a drive and found that it does it when in gear no matter what but stops when I put it in neutral and let out on the clutch. it makes the noise in neutral with clutch pushed in, but stops as soon as you let it out.
View 5 RepliesI have a 2013 F250 with a 6.2L gas motor, 50k miles.
Recently, I've noticed it takes longer to start. The motor will crank at regular speed but will take longer to start. It's always taken longer than a single rotation from day one but lately it's gotten really bad.
Even more recently, I hear a ticking noise under load, or even sometimes at idle. It sounds like an exhaust leak or worn lifter noise. Could these somehow be connected? What this could be?
6.2L F250 truck is just shy of 60k runs good however on cold startup there's now a pretty loud ticking noise for a short period (30 seconds) until it warms up then it slowly goes away. Once its warmed up there isn't much of anything.
Did these have exhaust manifold gasket problems like the 5.4? Hoping that's it if not, any other common problems that would make that ticking noise and then go away quickly once the engine is warmed up.
I thought i heard this yesterday when i left work but i was tired and said its in my head, THEN i go to leave right now and sure enough its a real sound, you can hear it very well through the front grill and then if you turn the volume up you can hear a ticking sound ever half a second or so, it also speeds up when i was pulling on the throttle cable. And after the truck fully warms up it goes away.......
View 14 RepliesI have a F350 diesel which has recently had a new AC compressor, Now when I go to stop at a stop sign or slow down using brakes the wipers come on and swipe a time or two. I never noticed this before the new compressor was installed so I was wondering if something might have happened while installing compressor? Now I think stepping on the brakes makes the wipers come on, but not until the truck slows down and is just idling.
View 1 RepliesTruck runs and rids smooth up to about 60 MPH between 60 and 75 it gets bouncy really bouncy. Feels like the right front is whats bouncing. The not as bad on a good smooth highway but still bouncy.
I've replaced the Ujoints, Center Support Bearing on the rear drive shaft and had hit balanced. I had the front drive shaft completely rebuilt and balanced. I have new tires.
Shop said suspension needed done. Could that be the cause of the bounce or is it a CVJ on the front (feels like the front bouncing)
Side note, when the hubs are locked in there's a knocking when i turn hard right.