Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Thin Red Lines On Radio Display
Nov 5, 2016
Out of nowhere my radio started to display a bunch of horizontal thin red lines across the screen on my 15' 250 xlt. Picture is just to show the type of radio I have.
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I've got a 2012 F250 XLT with AM/FM/CD/AUX radio, and the display is not working. The radio functions fine, as do all other electronics on the truck, but the display is dark. I've tried pulling Fuse #29 in the passenger kick panel, and it looked fine. Is my radio toast?
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They problem I have is when I am driving and the headlights are on my odometer and radio display is extremely dim. When this first happened I thought the displays were completely off until it got darker outside. It only happens when it is dark enough for the auto headlight feature to function.
When it is bright outside I can turn the between off, headlights on and auto and the displays are still bright. When it darkens outside the only way I can have the displays lit up to where I can read them is to turn my lights to off.
I have tried adjusting the dash dimmer switch, checked fuses and looked over the wiring but cannot find the fault.
It is a 2011 6.7L F250.
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I just bought a 2010 SD for my new hunting truck and the radio light doesn't work. Is there a setting on the radio to shut off the light? I don't have a manual and the menu button is of course dark? the radio works but you can't see any time of channel, and the dimmer of the interior lights doesn't change a thing.
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I have manual hubs on my truck. Can I pull those vacuum lines and plug the holes?
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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Truck has been neglected for a while so this upgrade/repair I installed Powerstop brake rotor, caliper, bracket and pads. New Timkin wheel bearing, Moog U-Joints, and new inner/outer axle seals. Also replaced all the brake hoses and the remaining original rusty brake lines. About a month before I replaced the failed Auto/Manual vacuum operated locking hubs with Mile Marker units, which do not need the vacuum line, the drivers side was missing. and was letting water into the wheel bearing. So I decided to plug them and remove the vacuum lines from under the hood as well.
If there is interest I can get pictures of the vacuum lines, and what I changed under the hood. That was pretty self explanatory.
Could not find a google search for the thread size of the vacuum nipple in the knuckle. It is a 3/8"-24 fine thread.
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I don't have any leaks at the moment, but after inspecting my vacuum lines they're starting to look brittle and I want to replace them proactively. Is there a kit to do this or should I just cut a section off and take it in to an auto parts store to match the size, and buy it by the foot?
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I plan on replacing the brake lines on our 1999 Ford F-250 Super Duty. The rear line blew out right by the hose, on the framerail. All five lines, all five hoses. What size lines? Looks like front two are 3/16", rear two over the axle are 3/16", and the rear line in the frame is 1/4".
We are removing the bed (2013 bed) to make things easier. I am thinking fuel lines and parking brake cable while the bed is off. I have stainless steel hoses from KLM performance and I am also planning on replacing the rear rubber hoses. Obviously I'm using nickel copper line. There shouldn't even be an option for other brake line.
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I have a 08 f250, my abs is giving me nothing but problems, always have, have any of you's ever ran new brake line and by passed the abs?
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When on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
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I have a leak from the oil pan gasket and oil coolant lines. From the research I have done, it looks like I have to lift the motor to change the oil pan gasket. Any way to get this done without lifting the motor??? 2000 f250 5.4 2wd....
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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So I just bought a 2012 F250 with 28,300 on the clock. I was driving it home yesterday (500 miles) and I noticed that every time I shut the truck down the external temp display would display -40 F at start up and then gradually climb to whatever the ambient temp is, around 60F but in that 500 mile distance it seemed to be stuck at whatever the high was and not drop unless I stopped the truck and powered it off and we would start at -40 again.
Where I should start troubleshooting this? I have some factory powertrain warranty left but this will not fall under that so I need to fix it myself and there is nothing in the owners manual about this. It is a crew cab long box, with the 6.2, XL package but has all of the benefits of an XLT it just has vinyl floors.
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2001 F250 SD, V10, Auto, 155K miles
While driving home from work I noticed the needle jump from around 55 to 70 on the display, then settle back in at 55 ish. First I just caught it out of the corner of my eye, but watched more closely, and it did it again as I drove. The tow/haul override button on the shifter was blinking also, (as if it was "Mad" about something)..
Then I noticed that the jump of the Speedometer needle was linked to when I changed from High to Low on the headlights, and vise-versaI was NOT in cruise mode The voltmeter did not EVER waver. (I thought that the increased current might be causing a temporary problem of sorts). Where to start looking?
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My overhead display quit working earlier this week. The truck has 120k miles. Is this display on it's own fuse? I only used it for the outside temperature readout but I would really like to get it working again.
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So I shorted wires out putting a new plug on my mirror, and now I have no turn signals, no backup lights and no overhead display that shows mpg and outside temp. All fuses are good, and I don't think it is my flasher relay just because I also have no park lamps or over head display.
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I'm a new Powestroke Diesel owner. I recently (Dec. 2012) picked up a 2008 F-350 Crew Cab, DRW, 4x2 with a 6.4l automatic. Love the truck. Lots of power. Runs great. My question is; while driving, every couple of days the "cleaning exhaust filter" message comes up on the display for about 10 secs. I understand what that message means and what the truck is doing. What I don't understand is, why does the truck seem to run like crap after? It seems to be down a little on power and the idle surges until I shut it off and restart and then everything is fine.
It doesn't matter how long it runs after the DPF cleaning message displays. Also, three times now since I purchased it it has shown a different message, "drive to clean exhaust filter" followed by "cleaning exhaust filter". This message will stay on for many minutes. What is the difference between messages? Is the truck doing anything different? Is it ok to shut the truck off while either of those messages are displayed? The first time it happened I drove around for 15 minutes or so afraid to shut it off! Unfortunately the truck is obviously used and the owners manual was missing.
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I have a 2008 F450. What may be going on with my truck. In the past the truck would blow the fuse for the door locks. Currently the display is showing wiring fault with no trailer attached, the horn is not working and the cruise control has stopped working. I've covered the basics and checked all relays and fuses and haven't found a faulty one yet. I'm thinking bad ground or possibly bad GEM module???? I've read and read topics and am more confused as to what it could be now than when I started.
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Radio locked up. Dealer says $800 to replace which seems way out of line to me. Are there any aftermarket solutions that retain the Bluetooth phone integration and don't look gawdy once installed?
My radio has the CD player, a digital display and steering wheel controls but no large screen or touchscreen for mapping or backup camera or anything like that.
Or if there is no good aftermarket solution perhaps I would be better off replacing it with a higher end Ford radio with inputs for a backup camera, etc?
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