Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Terrible Noise When Hit A Bump / Front Axle Shaft Removal
Apr 3, 2012
I have a E99 F350 7.3L 4x4 I know some or most of you have already probably replaced this part and or pulled a front axle shaft out. So here is my question...In the pictures provided you can see what I think everyone is calling a "Dust Seal" and as you can see it is bad and making a very terrible noise when i hit a bump...I was wondering what parts I would need to replace this seal? I tried looking it up and just get lost in all of the other things....I have found write-ups for the axle being removed while changing ball joints but none by it self to just replace this seal.
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I am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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So the other day I took my locking hubs out and cleaned them really good. When they were out I noticed I could grabs axle shafts inside the hub and wiggle them quiet a bit. Is that normal?
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Check out the pics. 99 f250 4x4. I have a leak in my front axle shaft. It looks like it is coming out of the dust cap on the end of the front shaft. I am pretty sure it is differential fluid from the smell. Is there a seal before the dust cap? Is the shaft hollow with fluid in it? I thought it was just in the differential and if it leaks it is at the seals where the axle goes into the differential not at the otter end.
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How do I get the front axles out of of the knuckle? It seems like the seals are holding them in? Is there any trick to to getting them out,I am trying to do my ball joints
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I have a 1999 F-250 super duty 7.3 4x4 and the rear drivers side axle seal is leaking. My question is how do I remove the axle shaft? my last truck a f150 had c clips in the diff that released the axle shaft but I did not see those on this truck. How to remove the axle shaft?
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I have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
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With the front hubs locked locked I get a ticking noise out of the front axle almost like there is rocks in the hubcaps. But unlock the hubs and the noise goes away. Also, if I put it in 4 wheel with the hubs unlocked i get no noise.
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with the 5.4L I bought it cheap and runs well. While going through doing the stuff that needs attention I noticed the 4x4 isn't workijg. It has whatbappears to be some cheap maybe plastic locking hubs and the manual pull stick onj the floor for engaging the 4x4.I can pull it into 4H and 4L, the dash lights confirming come on but the front wheels will not lock in.
One of the cheapo hubs looks like someone clamped vice grips on it to try and turn the and doesnt seem to totally lock in. The drivers side hub sounds like it is lock in but makes a terrible lound clicking noise.
They may be the stock hubs, have no markings to designate the direction to lock and unlock and do appear to be somt sort of plastic hub.... Are the hubs my problem since I can manually pull it into 4x4 and I can see the 4x4 shaft spin but the tires are not engaging?
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I'm wanting to grease the center spline on my drive shaft. I got the 4 bolts off with a 12mm 16 point boxed in wrench but can't get the drive shaft loose from the rea rend. I don't blindly want to go beating it out of the yoke with a hammer to try to knock it loose (but I will if I have to). What am I missing to get this shaft out?
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My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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I am in the process of replacing the front hub seals so my ESOF works again. I tested both front hubs with a mityvac and neither one of them holds any vacuum at all. All the lines are good, and the pump and solenoid seem to be working fine.
I have the driver's side apart and I have a couple of questions.
What's a good source for the vacuum seal? I've checked rockauto, riff raff, and diesel o-rings. Diesel o-rings has it, but the description says it's only for 2003+ Excursions so I didn't order it.
There is no yellow o-ring anywhere on the hub. I assume that someone forgot to put this o-ring back in and this is why I don't have ESOF? I guess what I really want to know is that there isn't some 2000-specific thing where there's no o-ring, right?
After I got the hub off, I spun it around on my workbench and it doesn't sound good at all. It makes a slight metallic grinding noise about 1/2 way around. I assume this isn't normal? AFAIK these are all original parts - but the missing o-ring means to me that someone already had it apart.
There was a lot of water intrusion and rusty colored grease but nothing was dry, the needle bearings were intact and the shaft isn't scored at all where the bearing rides. I'm hoping new seals and good cleaning and it should be good as new. And then it's off to the next side.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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Not sure what caused it to break but my front driveshaft split in half. I had it in 4wd and was doing a K turn to back in my driveway in a snow storm.
I got underneath in the snow (miserable) and wasn't able to come close to getting it off. The bolts holding the shaft onto the t-case will not budge and the tiny 5/16" bolts stripped all my small 1/4" sockets. I'm guessing I need a 3/8" drive 5/16" for front and the rear just spins. Any tricks to getting this off the truck.
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I finally got my lift installed the other day from PMF. My question is how do I get my pinion angle corrected on the front drive shaft? I know Trevor sells a Tcase clocking adapter may have to go that route IDK Unlike the rear there's only so much pitch you can put on the front axle until it causes issues with steering. I was thinking of going with an aftermarket front drive shaft designed to handle harsher angles.
I live in the mountains and after installing the lift and pulling a trailer on some of theses steeper gravel roads I can feel a harshness or something coming from under to front of the truck. I'm unable to post pics since I'm back on the road but I can visually see the front drive shaft angle is definitely not in line like it was.
I'm currently running PMF 2.5 alpha with a 1'' spacer and 3 link kit up front and 5'' progressive leafs and traction bars out back. I was able to fix my rear shaft angle using shims on my carrier bearing ( not really a big fan having 1 1/2'' of stacked shims BTW ) ....
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After installing the lift on my 6.2 F250 I ran into the well known issue where the front drive shaft hits the catalytic converter. The two options I was told that I had was to weld in a slight jog into the exhaust guts to go around the cat or to get a smaller diameter drive shaft... I had the truck down at my local exhaust shop to have a new cat back system installed and I had the exhaust guy throw in his .02 about what to do.
He came up with a super easy/obvious fix. When the left and right exhaust meet up before the collector there is a welded brace that secures both sides together. He cut about .5" out of it and loosened the flanges and shifted the exhaust over. Welded the brace back up... Works perfect.
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I have a 2015 F250, cc 4X4 PSD. It has 22,000 miles on it. I notice a small quarter sized drop of oil after it is parked by the right side front wheel. It is coming from behind the dust cover and universal joint where the axle goes into the tube. I dont know how long it has been leaking. My issue is I am about 800 miles from home on a camping trip, have to go back to work Monday, and lcoal dealer here can't take it in till next week. So, if the hubs are not locked and the truck is in 2 wheel drive, the gears shouldn't be turning right? I assume it is ok to drive home. I didn't want to pull the plug and check the fluid because if any runs out and leaves a stain on the cover, I don't want ford trying to deny warranty claiming I messed with it first.
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I am not up on the exact operation of the hub lock/unlock on superdutys but when following them, I can see the front axles still turning with the wheel. So even with them "disengaged" they still turn with the wheels?
If that is the way they are designed to do, why? Seems like efficiency could be gained by having them actually disengaged when not needed. And save wear on the inner housing seals.
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I noticed the other day after my truck was parked on a bit of a angle there was diff oil from the passenger side on the ground. reading a bit on here i learned the axle seals are way in the front housing close to the front diff. and yesterday driving a heavy load around my front brake driver side got stuck on a bit and over heated and was smoking, couldn't even touch the rim it was so hot. anyway about this axle seal i got the hub off right now but cant seem to pull out the axle assembly through the knuckle but i see i have to pry and most likely wreck that seal. Looking for a link of piuctures or how to replace the axle seals in the housing.
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It's the Right Front Axle Shaft on my 2006 F250 where it goes into the Hub/Bearing assembly.
Seems way to loose to me but after I removed the Lock-Out, I discovered the Axle Shaft is held in by a Snap-Ring not a Nut (WTF) so how do I get this tightened up
Also it's my understanding (I didn't remove) between the Axle & Steering Knuckle there's a rubber O-Ring. Could all this play be from that O-Ring being wasted Although that doesn't seem likely to me, Iam worried what's wrong
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