Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Sunroof Leaking / Entire Seal Inside Is Damp
Feb 22, 2015
I have my 03 F350 which unfortunately has a sunroof...which now appears to be leaking. Around the entire seal inside is damp about 1/2" out into the headliner. I looked up top and didnt see anything out of the ordinary..but the back of the sunroof is flush with the roof and the front is about 1/4" down, and if you press on it...it sinks about another 1/4". My questions here are...how do i fix this leak, is there a seal that needs to be replaced? and is that play in the sunroof normal or is something wrong?
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I noticed the other day after my truck was parked on a bit of a angle there was diff oil from the passenger side on the ground. reading a bit on here i learned the axle seals are way in the front housing close to the front diff. and yesterday driving a heavy load around my front brake driver side got stuck on a bit and over heated and was smoking, couldn't even touch the rim it was so hot. anyway about this axle seal i got the hub off right now but cant seem to pull out the axle assembly through the knuckle but i see i have to pry and most likely wreck that seal. Looking for a link of piuctures or how to replace the axle seals in the housing.
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Just had my truck in for an oil change at dealership and wanted them to check for oil leak seeing as I started getting drops on my driveway. When I pick up the truck they told me the front crank seal was leaking and possibly the rear main seal. Front was gonna be 650 bucks and the rear was gonna be 1020. Ended up taking truck to local diesel shop and they replaced front crank seal for 300 and said the rear main looked fine. Tech also told me the old seal looked worse than some that came out of engines with 3 times as many miles. 6.4L ...
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99, F250, 4X4, V10, 72,000 miles. I have had the front axle seals replaced three times in the past 3000 miles, and the right continues to leak. My mechanic screwed up three times?
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Pinion seal on my truck is leaking. At auto parts store they gave me National seal part number 4278. It does not fit it is too small.I went back and other seal they have is too big. What is the part number?
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The rear hub outer oil seal on my 05 350 is leaking. The 350 Super Duty Twin Cab was never imported into the UAE so can I use the same seals as the Excursion or another Ford vehicle?
Failing that do we know the name and part number of a seal manufacturer whom I might be able to source from in Dubai? Ford don't make the seals them selves so there must be an alternate source for these things surely?
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Changing out the rear main oil seal on my 1999 F250 Super Duty. I have a 7.3L diesel with 6 spd manual trans. with 98K miles. This past week it has developed a very slow engine oil drip where the engine meets the transfer case. Is it necessary to remove the engine or just the transmission? What does a transmission/transfer case combo weigh? What special tools would I need?
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I just changed transfer case fluid on my father's F-350 for the first time in 13 years. (over 230k). Removed fill plug first and fluid gushed out of the fill hole unexpectedly. Did not have catch pan ready, so made a mess. I thought it was just over filled form the factory, but too much was coming out to be simple overfill. Almost 2 qt came out of the fill plug.
Did some google search and found many Ford trucks have failed transmission output shaft seal and transmission fluid leaks out to transfer case, causing transfer case to overfill. I am yet to check transmission fluid level, but considering how much came out of it that probably is the case.
Now, how bad of the problem this really is? Will overfilled transfer case cause some serious problem? 4x4 is rarely used (once or twice a year in winter) on this truck and from what I understand transfer case doesn't really do anything in 2WD other than just passing output from transmission through.
There are no fluid leaking outside and repairing the seal would be a too much of work for me.
Also changed rear differential fluid for the first time and I was surprised how clean the fluid was. There were thin layer of black sticky residue (sludge?) covering everything, but the fluid itself looked clean and no visible metal shavings. I guess that is why Ford said it does not require change under normal condition.
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I just picked up an 09 F250 a couple of weeks ago and I was planning on replacing all the fluids since I'm not sure when everything had been done in the past, but it did pull a camper 5th wheel. It has about 93000 Km/57000mi on it
One thing I noticed when reading the manual is that a rear diff fluid change is not necessary on these rear axles unless they have been submerged in water or repaired etc..
Just after I got it I noticed the pinion seal was leaking. It was fixed under warranty but the dealer did not replace the diff fluid as they said Ford will not pay for it.
My question is do you think I need to replace the diff fluid or should it still be good, given the relatively low mileage.
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My grandad passed away a few months back, and I'm about to get his truck ready to sell/trade for my grandmother. The truck is an 09 f150 with only 18k miles, but it's got a couple minor issues like soft brakes from sitting, I'll post those problems in the f150 section if i have any issues fixing. He liked to leave the extended cab windows cracked in the summer. Problem was, he would forget to raise them, sometimes weeks at a time. He was 88 and suffering from dementia. This leads me to my question : How do I QUICKLY get rid of the musky smell? I came home this evening, and went to put it in the garage, and the windows were fogged up from the inside, and it smells awful. The windows haven't been left down in at least 6 months. This sucks, because this truck is flawless other than this. Dad had put open boxes of baking soda in it, but it hasn't worked.
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Removing oem aluminum for oem Steel wheels. After going through two sets of tires, having driveshaft rebuilt for no reason, new shocks, new rotors and pads, I'm 100,000.00 percent positive one of the aluminum wheels is out of round. From 50+ MPH I start getting a shake throughout the entire truck, faster you get it gets a little worse. I can't feel it in my steering wheel though? And if I rotate tires it stays the same, my buddy is giving me a really decent set of steel wheels from his 2003 xl f250 work truck and the local powder coat shop told me 100 per Tire for sand blast primer and then my choice of powder coat. Steel will always be stronger and run truer than aluminum and winter shouldn't be a problem since I do upkeep my vehicle. OR just buy a 16x10 aluminum wheels and FINALLY do my 4" lift with 35's and sell my almost new 285 tires...
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I bought a 2006 F250 Super Duty about 3 months ago, and it's been doing fine. I backed it into the shed yesterday after work, and noticed a little while later, a small puddle of fluid under the front. I crawled under and looked up...the entire steering pump is wet and dripping. I thought at first it was engine oil coming down from above, but it seems to be steering fluid (or whatever is in the steering reservoir). Clear looking fluid/oil.
I've read about high-pressure hose leaks...exactly where is that hose? Is it the one that is nearly against the pulley on the bottom? Where the fluid could be coming from?
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99, F250, 4X4, V10, 72,000 miles. I have had the front axle seals replaced three times in the past 3000 miles, and the right continues to leak. My mechanic screwed up three times?
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Earlier this week I pulled out my right axle shaft and found the outer portion of the Spicer two piece seal attached to the axle, the part number on the seal is 52148. The axle tube is dry, no signs of the seal leaking. I need to remove that seal from the shaft to install a new outer dust seal. Can that seal be removed with a 3 jaw pulled then get reinstalled, or can I get a new 53148 and install that portion with out removing the carrier. I am not set up where I sit right now to pull both axles.
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I have a 2000 F250 4x4 7.3 - About a month ago I drove across town and then noticed a strong hot brake smell from the rear of the truck. When I drove home about 2 hours later it was gone and didn't return until today. Today I stopped at a light with my window down and got the same hot brake smell, looked in the mirror and saw smoke coming from my drive's side rear wheel.
I carefully drove home (the smoke was now gone, all i did was cycle the parking brake release a couple of times) and pulled the wheel off. Rotor was really hot but smooth and clean. Brake caliper and pads looked great (no sign of the pads glazing or dragging, dry as a bone). The inside of the rotor was wet with oil. The brake shoes and components were soaked with the same fluid/oil.
Does this sound like a typical hub seal issue? Excuse my ignorance since I haven't had the rear hubs apart before but does the gear oil in the rear diff go into the axle tubes? I know the front tubes are dry but I didn't know if the rears are different. The amount of fluid on the brakes seems to be more than the little bit that is inside the hub. I need to pick up the parts and rent/purchase a couple of tools to replace the seal so I want to be as sure as possible that I'm on the right track...
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Replacing the knuckle/axle seal due to my hub not holding a vacuum. I finally got the seal off the axle after several minutes of beating, but it finally came off. During the beating the metal shield that was in back of the seal took a beating as well and can not be reused. Is it really needed?
In this thread the pictures show that the shield was not installed after the seal was replaced. The shield does serve a purpose to keep crap out of the seal though.
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Do I need a special tool to put the outer axle seal on a 2003 excursion? I could make one if I new how far down it needs to be. I'm replacing the needle bearings in the back of the hubs and it looks like the last seals were not on far enough and the hub tore them up....
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If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
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Will leaving the parking brake on burn up the axle seals? My parking brake isn't working well at the moment. I need new ones from all the fluid my bad seals leaked on them. So, at the moment they just scrub a bit while its engaged. However, today I found out that my parking brake light for one reason or another is not working and I got in a hurry and didn't release the brake. by the time I got to where I was headed (about 15 miles), I could smell gear fluid burning and my driver side rear was smoking. I'm hoping its the fluid that was already soaked into the shoes. I did find a drop of fluid on the bottom of my brake caliper.
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Has mounted a full size warning lightbar on truck with a sunroof? My concern would be where the lightbar cable comes in through the roof possibly interfering with sunroof operation? The truck is a 2013 F-350 Crewcab.
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2011 KR CC- Only history is this happened once before but corrected itself. So far- took apart master window switch and inspected. Checked fuses. Dis/reconn batteries. Door lock switches work on dr and pass doors.
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