I was taking my boat out of the lake last night. Shifted T-box into 4Low and removed the boat. I then tied everything up and when to shift back into 2Hi and it wont. I have a 2001 F350 diesel w/ automatic and the auto locking hubs.Hubs are not engaged atm. I have never had this issue before and was wondering if a shift solinoid is stuck or something might be wrong with my Transfer case??
View 14 RepliesI have a 99 F350 V10 that has started with shift issues. While driving in drive it will down shift to first for no apparent reason and not shift back up. If I drop the shifter to second it will go back into second from first. I can then shift back to drive and it goes back to drive. It will last a few minutes and then down shift again. It's a dually dumper if it matters..
View 2 RepliesI need to solve tranny problem, it started out a while back, would not shift back into drive after stopping at stop sign (after driving fine for about 20 miles) thought maybe dirty filter so did fluid and filter change seemed to work for a while then started again noticed it was mostly after using cruise control, but u joints were very bad, so replaced 2 of the 3 and worked fine for about a thousand highway miles, then got really bad. Now when I check the tranny fluid cold and /or hot it is way up on the dipstick. Took to ford dealer in ladoga, lied and said no speed sensor codes, but list on the paper he gave me had all kinds of abs and a p500 code.
View 9 RepliesI'm in the process of changing my shift motor on my 04 f350. I can't get it off because of a broken bolt. The previous owner must have done this before, and snapped the head and some of the shaft off, so it's basically an alignment pin that's recessed into the hole on the motor. For some reason it's holding the motor on, even though I don't think the hole is threaded. Any way to get it off. I'm thinking that taking a MAP gas torch to the casting on the motor may be my best bet.
View 8 RepliesI have had this problem for quite a while now. Originally it did not go into 4Hi when I needed it in a snow storm. I was told to just change the shift motor so I bought a new one, manually put the transfer case into 4Hi then put the new motor on. It would not shift into 2Hi or 4Lo. It was already in 4Hi but the light was not on. I thought I got a bad shift motor since I got it off eBay. I put the original one back on. Still nothing. I read every thread on this sight having to do with the subject and started going through checking everything. I found one of the relays was bad so I replaced both of them.
Still nothing although I thought I could hear the shift motor (or fuel pump) running. Today I took the shift motor off and hooked up wires to a battery and the shift motor with a momentary switch. When I pushed the button, the motor ran but the thingy that is supposed to turn the shaft on the transfer case did not move. Tried both directions. Then I hooked up the new shift motor and it ran and turned, changed the wires and it ran the other direction. Put it on and it worked, shifts the transfer case and the light comes on when it should. I guess I had been looking for one problem when it was really two separate problems keeping it from working.
I have a 2000 I got new in sept of 99 its a good truck and id like to keep it as long as I can its got 173,000 on it I take care of it garaged kept and consistent fluid/filter changes all over top and bottom few minor addons like turbo bak exhaust from Silverline,auto meter gauges so I can monitor temps ,a bigger transmission pan aluminum I did years ago ,a gear vendor 8 speed addon years ago,diablo predator tuner with the 80 horse tune been doing great for a quite a while lately I noticed if I leave it idling in park for a few minutes while in a store r sumpn it won't shift outa 3rd its like overdrive is turned off I have to pull over and kill&restart 7.3 and take off its fine what in the wide wide world a sports is happening my overdrive switch has been out for a couple years I just haven't replaced it yet it gradually got worse when using it id have to pull shift lever in to get it to engage then put in neutral then in park now cant get it to work at all hopefully I can fix it myself but my luck is never that good.
View 5 RepliesAbout 6 months ago my 4 wheel drive stoped working and I wasn't worried about it because I never used it. I did mess around with it allitle bit to try and fix it the one time I did need it. Long story short I was involved in the floods near Houston these past few days but my truck was never in more than a a foot of water. I went up the store and grabbed a few drinks and went home. tuesday when I went to get in my truck to head back to college station for school it was stuck in 4x4 low. whick puzzled me because my 4 wheel drive hasn't worked in a good while.
When I turn the key on there is no 4x4 lights that come on momentarily and when I turn the 4x4 switch still no lighst come on. Again its been this way for 6 months. I tested the two relays under the hood and both of them have power. there is no power going to the switch in my dash and no power going to the solenoid on the transfer case. Wich is why I am confused on how it went into 4x4 low. I assuming it is in 4x4 low because of how fast the tranny shifts and I know its locked because I cant turn my front drive shaft while in neutral. The hubs are unlocked. I just printed out a shematic and am gonna try to figure out why my 4x4 isn't working.. to hopefully fix it so I can get my truck out of 4x4.
I am off to work tomorrow 800 Mile drive and I cant get this thing out of 4X4 Low. Tried driving (inching) back and forth. Got front end up on jacks to try to free up driveline... Is there any way to Manually put in 2WD. I just don't have time to run to town and get parts (new switching motor) if that is what the issue is?
View 7 RepliesI have a piece of a warn locking hub that is stuck in the wheel hub. It is stuck in a Ford F-350 super duty SRW 6.8 V10 with a Dana 50 8 lug front axle. Everything seems stock, but we bought this beast late in its life. I have removed the locking hub cap, the inner locking gear, and the metal retaining ring that holds the outer gear in place. The other side just falls apart as it should at this point.
I have tried building a custom puller utilizing the 6 hex cap screws (that attach the locking hub cap) to pull in on two 1/8" thick c channels held off with a 1/2" bolt pushing in the middle of the c channels on the axle. In one case, I sheared off the bolt, and bent the c channels. I tried it again and that time broke several of the hex cap screws off.
I have ran through penetrating oil, wd-40, propane (for a torch) and carb and brake cleaner as I tried heating up the hub while applying penetrating oil and letting things sit, then spraying out rust and such with carb or brake cleaner to loosen things up, then repeating the process over and over again. I have done this process several times. It worked on the center where the axle goes through the inner gear, so now the inner gear is now loose from the axle. But the outside is still suck like no other.
Lightly hitting on it with a 3lb sledge to crack something lose has done nothing, and left me struggling not to beat it much harder with a bigger hammer with a longer handle.
As a note, it took weeks to get the center locking gear to fall out after doing the oil, heat, and spray cleaner process, then driving with it locked in, and it took two attempts and hours to get the cap off from stuck hex cap screws, several which I had to drill out in the end after even an impact screw driver would not work. The U-Joint is bad, and I can't lock in the 4WD which is problematic at the dump and on job sites when it is muddy especially when we are towing a maxed out 5k single axle trailer that wants to dig in to the mud too.
the mechanism that locks the steering wheel is stuck. not the ignition key cylinder (already removed that). how do I release that mechanism to free the steering wheel.
View 3 RepliesI have a hard shift between 2-3 that is somewhat violent. It doesn't matter the rpms or how hard I'm accelerating, it will always do it. At wot, it sometimes throws a code that stays on for a few minutes, then goes away. When I hook up a code reader, it shows no record of it and it never throws a blinking OD light ever.
It has an ATS transmission, but I don't know how the controller works, if it is wired correctly, or if it could even cause this issue. Currently the truck has 210k and unknown on ATS.
So it appears as though my shift lever (automatic) will not shift into the 1st gear position? However when I drive the vehicle, the transmission seems to shift through 4 gears, then into Overdrive? What could be the issue?
View 3 RepliesI have a 2003 F350 Super Duty 6.0 L with the dash mounted 2H-4H-4L switch. I was using 4wd and the light went out by itself and now I cannot shift it out of 4wd. Fuse 31 has no power to it, and the drivers book says it is the fuse for 4x4. Where the power for that fuse comes from? There is no power to the switch as well, of course.
View 5 Replies2004 Excursion 6.0... What might be cause of my "shift on fly" 4x4 not working? No lights on dash, no mechanical noise, fuse appears Ok.
View 3 RepliesMy 2004 F250 super duty crew cab is stuck in park. Every once in a while it will move to drive, but once stopped and in put in park, its stuck. Its an Automatic transmission
View 13 RepliesMy 01 SD won't blow air anywhere but through the defrost vents.
View 9 Replies2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
View 6 RepliesMy father has a 2009 Ford F-250 Superduty with the 5.4l V8. Two days ago, he frantically woke me up from a nap because he could not get the truck out of park nor are the brake lights turning on when the pedal is pressed. I instantly thought Shift Interlock, did a quick google search and found that it can be the shift interlock or brake light switch on the brake pedal. I have since then replaced both to no avail as well as checking all fuses. I put a multimeter to the brake light switch connector and am getting a steady 10.2v. I am aware there is a bypass switch but that doesn't address the fact that he has no brake lights.
View 9 RepliesMy Ford 250 is currently stuck in park, it starts but I can't move the shifter. It sounds like it is a fuse issue from what I have read, but I bought the truck at an auction and I don't have a book. Do the brake or parking brake fuse? And where is it located? I know there is a panel under the hood and under the dash, which fuse to look for. It's a 2008 extended cab gas model.
View 13 Replies2011 250 run fine when parked it Friday jumped in it Monday morning got a check traction control light on will not shift out of park no break lights replaced break switch all fuses are good.
View 5 RepliesMy defrost is stuck no matter which way I turn the control it won't come off. It just started doing this today. I think it might be a vacuum leak. When I turn my switch on the pump still clicking whether or not it's pumping.
View 2 Replies