Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Stripped HPOP Fill Plug
Mar 24, 2015
I have stripped my HPOP fill plug. Any experience on getting one out? And a part # for a new one?
View 10 RepliesI have stripped my HPOP fill plug. Any experience on getting one out? And a part # for a new one?
View 10 RepliesI've a 2002 Ford F250 SD with the 5.4 v8. I noticed my truck is missing at aprox 50mph when the truck goes into OD and revving at aprox 1500 rpms. I Changed my spark plugs and cylinder no 6 was fouled. The coil was cracked where the sensor connects to the coil. I used some JB weld to try and repair the crack. My truck is still missing and vibrating at 1500rpms at 50mph. I wonder if I need to replace the cracked coil? my check engine light is not on, but that means nothing.
Also, cylinder no2, I was not able to remove the coil. The bolt is stripped. I just got this truck a few months ago and the previous owner or last person who worked on this truck left me with a stripped coil bolt. Anyway, how do I get this bolt out? I'm afraid to crack the plastic area the retainer bolt threads in to...which is also plastic. I"m not too fond of my ford, at least working on it.
2016 F250, took out the seats to remove the console and install the jump seat and upon installation I stripped the bold housing for the front left corner of the drivers seat. Now it won't tighten up. Am i going to have to tap the hole and get a bigger bolt now?
View 12 RepliesI have an 2007 6.0 that won't start when hot. I'm being told it is the HPOP but I've been told that year does not have a high failure rate for the HPOP. Is this true?
View 1 RepliesIs it necessary to remove say about one and one half cups of oil from the HPOP reservoir when changing oil? I say not needed.
View 3 RepliesI have a 2000 F450, 7.3, 4x4, dually, VIN 1FDXF47F0YEA44380, with 30k miles, That needs a new rear axle - hub retainer threads on axle housing are stripped (nut welded on by previous owner). This axle is a case ID F81A-4001-BK, 4.88 ratio, 11.25 ring gear, with a 41.5" spring center. I have heard that the '99-'02 axles had issues until Ford switched over to the later square housed axles in 2002 or 2003 (Dana 110, I think). Is it possible to adapt these later (2002- 2004) axles onto a 2000 F450? And if so, what would be involved?
View 3 Repliesso long story short a few weeks ago my truck would start clicking the pump. Every 3 seconds it will click and stop. Tried different pumps, upside down, nothing works. Now it won't even go in like something is stuck in the fuel neck and its spitting gas back out. I stuck a wire and it went down pretty far. I see people saying the evap lines but I have no clue where they are.
View 9 RepliesI'm just a shade tree mechanic try to diagnose a hot crank no start condition on my 2006 F-350 6.0 that I purchased second hand about six months ago. I first took it to a diesel shop to have them fix it and the mechanic told me that the stand pipes and dummy plugs needed changing out but couldn't tell me 100% if that would fix the hot no start problem.. I have been reading a lot about this problem and it seems that the snap to connect fitting on the HPOP is the most common problem on these trucks. It seemed easy enough to do so I went after it only to find it was already replaced with the updated part.
I went ahead and changed it anyway but it obviously didn't work. So today I pressurized the system through the ICP port with my small harbor freight compressor up to 80 psi and forced the IPR valve closed with 12v. I then listened for a leak in the passenger side valve cover with a hose stuck in the oil fill cap, the driver side cover from some drain hole under the air filter housing and in the oil filter housing. I could hear a mild hissing from the driver side and the oil filter housing but it was clearly louder from the oil fill on the passenger side. This leads me to believe I have a top seal leak from one of the injectors on the passenger side, but not 100% sure. Should I be hearing anything at all from the driver side and from the oil filter housing if its a bad seal in the passenger side?
Another problem I just found out I have seems like maybe fuel in the oil. I done a oil change this week after 3500 miles since last change and drained out five gallons of oil!! The oil seemed really thin. My coolant level is still good so the only thing I can think of is fuel dilution. Could this possibly be the same o ring or injector that is causing my hpo leak or something else? Will a bubble or balloon test diagnose this?
I bought a cheap OBD2 reader that works on my Ipad with a app called Dashcommand so I can see what codes were stored. The codes are...
P0401- Exhaust Gas Recirculation A Flow Insufficient Detected (EGR has been deleted)
P0528-Fan Speed Sensor Circuit No Signal
P0670-Glow Plug Control Circuit/Open
P0683-Glow Plug Control Module to PCM Communication Circuit
P2290-Injection Control Pressure Too Low
So far my thoughts are to replace the injector and nipple cup seals to take care of the hpo leak. Once I have the valve cover off, clean the injectors real good and cycle the fuel pump with turning the key on and inspect the injectors for a fuel leak. Is there a better way than this?
I had a new Fuel Pump put in the cheaper plastic one into my 2001 F250 5.4 with a 112,000 miles.
Problem I am having since getting it back is when filling the gas tank up it will shut the pump off at 3/4 tank. I then have to sit there playing the squeezing game to get more gas in. The vent line looks fine no kinks in it and the tank looks level so what could be the issue causing me this headache?
Just got back from a 2500 mile trip and the 800 mile DEF warning came on. Went to a DEF pump but it just filled the neck. Went to another DEF pump, same . Went home and used a Ford DEF jug with the Ford spout. It still will not go in. If I squeeze the jug, I can hear a little bit dropping into the tank.
The vent and fill pipes are not kinked. The vent hole in the fill tube looks clear. I washed off the top of the tank since there is a vent there.
Still no fill. I do not have a bore scope to look in the fill tube. I ran a 1/2 inch flexible hose down the fill tube until it stopped. Still no fill.
I notice the gas nozzle clicks off all the time when I am filling my truck. Normally I just hold the nozzle up more and it seems to work.
F250. Slow fuel fill or fill nozzle keeps shutting off....
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Is there an easier way to fill the rear end on my '01 f250? I have a gadget with a valve on it with a length of tubing that you put on the bottle, but you still have to snake the bottle up through the chassis.
View 14 RepliesYesterday went to fill up ($4.05 a gallon geezz!) and noticed that after getting back into the cab, the fuel gauge still showed almost empty. So after yelling a few expletives, I looked again and noticed the gauge starting to make it's way up the dial. It took almost 30 min. before it showed almost full. I'm not sure what the problem is, as the gauge seems to still function. I don't drive the truck much as I use it as a tow vehicle. However, I do try and take it for a spin about 3-4 times a month just to exercise it. I was wondering if the fuel has started to gel and that is the reason for the slow fuel gauge response. Should I add a fuel conditioner/cleaner now that I have a full tank?
View 9 RepliesMy 2000 F-350 during fill-ups will spill out about a quart or more of gas from under the truck somewhere right when the filler clicks off. Also can smell fuel sometimes when between half and full tank. 2000 f350 SWR crew-cab 4x4, 5.4 gas.
View 3 RepliesMy 06 f250 with the 5.4 has a hard time being filled at the pump. So I followed the tsb and replaced the carbon canister, filter box and solenoid with the kit from my local ford dealer. Before it was impossible to get fuel in. Now it is way better but I have to fill it up with the gas nozzle upside down in order to fill at full speed. I have blown out the vent with compressed air.
View 6 RepliesHow to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
View 6 RepliesI have a 2001 ford f250 6.8 v10 with just about 183,000 miles on it my wife has been driving it and she told me it was running kinda rough so I took it for a drive and she was right so I pulled #1 COP and found it was full of oil and the same with#2 and #3 had a little bit of oil not as bad. What is causing my plug holes to fill with oil?
View 14 RepliesThe door on my trailer plug is broken. I can't seem to find just the door. Need to get one without having to buy the whole plug assembly?
View 6 RepliesSo the other weekend I hooked up to my buddys landscaping trailer, everything was fine until I plugged in the harness, No Lights...no big deal cuz it wasn't much of a drive, but I gotta haul a boat tomorrow a little ways and Id like to be legal.
I need cleaning my trailer plugs. What is the best way to clean the terminals on the small 4 prong? The big plug is fine, just a little dirt inside the cover, but I am still going to clean the contacts and put di-electric grease on them.
I purchased a 2000 F250 SD with 5.4L Automatic for a project with my daughter. After removing the fuel rail and the coil pack on the driver side I noticed two spark plug holes had oil in it almost to the top of the plug. I'm guessing it is a bad rocker cover gasket that is allowing oil to leak into the plugwells? Nothing I could find on the internet relating to this.
After removing the rocker cover the silicone gasket was intact but wet with oil. I purchased a replacement Felpro gasket but now understand they might need grommets for the crazy bolts Ford uses to hold the cover on the head.
Have a 2005 F350 4x4 SRW 5.4L with roughly 90k miles and I am replacing the original plugs. Broke three out of seven which was expected and have them replaced. You probably noticed I wrote 7 plugs above. The 8th plug which happens to be the #8 plug is giving me fits. I can't get a socket on it. The socket spins smoothly by hand with no ratchet over the plug but no upward movement. I cleaned the base of the hole thinking it might have some debris preventing it from hitting bottom. From what I can see after cleaning and blowing it out, the base of the hole is clean and there plug appears to have something for the socket grab onto. Out of curiosity, I have tried smaller and larger sockets in both 6 and 12 point with no luck. Is it possible the plug was set too deep in the head from the factory?
View 13 Replies