Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Steering Vibrates Under Hard Braking?
Aug 1, 2016
.I just changed out all the steering linkages due to a lot of slop and worn out tie rod ends. This problem existed before I changed them but I thought for sure changing the linkages would fix it. When I brake hard my front tires wobble very bad. I haven't ever experienced the death wobble that is common in these trucks, but the symptoms seem the same, its just only when I brake hard. I can look at my front left tire while braking hard and see it wobbling. The wheel bearings and ball joints only have about 15k miles on them. I can't tell if the front wheels are moving independent of each other back and forth, or if they are both shaking back and forth together. What might cause this? it's a super uneasy feeling when it happens, especially because whenever you are braking hard there is usually a reason.
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2003 F250 4x4 5.4L with 35" off-road tires.
My problem is my front end started vibrating and got worst over the last 2 months. I noticed my front tires were wearing very oddly. Not the way they would if it were out of alignment. I checked the ball joints and the tie rods and all seem tight. There is no play in the ball joints or tie rods. Now I have noticed that I have play in what I think is coming from my steering gear box. I can wiggle the steering wheel and can hear it rocking but it's not from the gear box down. Could that be the problem or am I missing something. Also when turning out of a Parking lot that has a good angle to it I do hear a pop quite often but have not been able to locate where it's coming from other than it's in the front end somewhere. I just rotated the tires so now the front tires are smooth and worn evenly but I still have vibration just not near as much. It's hard to see in the pics but there's like lips on the end of the tread. The ones that were on the back are smooth and not worn like these.
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When braking the truck shakes terribly, enough to toss a drink out of the cup holder almost. Sometimes there is a slight feeling in the peddle but not always. The shudder feels like it is timed with each revolution of the wheels.
It developed from a perfectly stopping truck over the course of maybe a month. I don't drive the truck that much either.
Things I have checked:
1, all u-joints, they all look and feel good, no play or slop in them
2, air pressure in all tires, even rotated them, no effect
3, brakes-front and back all looked good but I went ahead and replaced front pads and rotors, cleaned caliper pins, zero effect.
4, shudder exists whether in gear and slowing or in neutral, 2wd and 4wd
What the heck else is there to check? My first thought was, front brakes/warped rotors, but after pulling them apart there was so much life left on the rotors and pads and replacing all that with new did nothing! Could bad back brakes cause this much of a shudder? They look fine as well.
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2014 F450. Front end and steering wheel shake violently when braking while towing a 20,000 pound trailer down a long and steep highway grade. It does not happen when towing my 12,000 pound trailer down the same highway. Could I be setting off the ABS braking system?
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I have an 03 F350 4x4 dually. Was pulling hard left at low speed when braking (front). Replaced pads, calipers, rotors, hoses and tires. Still the same problem. You can feel the abs activate right before it almost locks up the left front brake (basically will pull the steering wheel out of my hand). BTW the abs light does not come on.
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Truck seems to run ok, but when I push the brake pedal down a bit, a strange grinding/howling noise comes from the engine bay and same thing with the power steering. When I put the brake pedal down to the floor, it stops?
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I have a ford f350 super duty that has a little problem turning to the left but is really hard to turn to the right. How do I fix this?
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Every time I try turning at idle or with foot on brake it wont turn at all. Is this just a super duty thing or vacuum leak or power steering pump going?
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My 2000 F250 4 x 4 just started being almost impossible to steer to right when stopped. To the left it is ok. I was on a trip and when I got where I was going noticed the steering very hard. I checked the fluid level and it was almost empty. I filled the reservoir and let it sit 4 days. I am back on the road now and it is still doing it. Stopped to left is easy to right almost impossible.
My brakes are good. I noticed a couple times when I had to slam on the brakes on the tirp the rear tires chirped. I don't tow anything with it, just a family vehicle with 408000 miles. The power steering pump was replaced a few years ago. Pump, gearbox, etc? I need to get this fixed as I have another trip coming up in a few days.
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I have a 2003 f250 with the 7.3 power stroke in it. It is factory height on a set of 285/75 16 tires. It already has a reman steering pump and I replaced the steering gearbox today due to the truck having a little slop in the wheel. Since I bought the truck it is dang near impossible to park in a parking lot and almost impossible at a stop sign or being stopped to get it to turn whether I'm on the brakes or not it doesn't seem to make a difference. What else could be affecting the steering on the truck? All the steering components are good. I'm about by to the point of just selling the truck because it's that hard to steer. Especially trying to back a trailer is hard too.
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My steering got real "heavy" almost as if I had no power steering so I replaced the power steering pump. The steering got a little easier but is still very stiff. It's extremely hard to turn at low speed just off idle...I have to rev the engine a bit to get it to turn.This is on my 1999 7.3 f350...I've ran 33" and 35" tires on it it's whole life and this is the first PS pump I've replaced since 1999...never replaced the steering box.
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I'm completely aware a lifted truck will not ride factory and most likely ride harder. But this is ridiculous.
So I bought a 8" super lift for my F250 7.3 2000, although the price is very cheap at that shipped to my door debating if I have messed up either with the brand or somewhere because I feel like I went from a casual ride in my lovely 7.3 to feeling like a horse carriage of a few century's ago.
Lift is setup with lift leaf springs in the front, one add a leaf in the rear with a block, and 4 new shocks and all the other hardware included to do the lift.
I'm wondering if it's possible the springs are installed wrong, or the shocks are just that bad or if there a weird issue I've over looked.
Tire pressure is set to 35-40 psi all around on toyo open country mts, (which I was running before the lift so that hasn't changed) but I mean this is so stiff that when I hit a bump my steering wheel jerks and I feel like my suspension has absolutely no flex in it. Debating on returning to stock or not at this point...
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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Im working on a 03 f-450 that has a front end vibration, it starts when you hit 25 mph and its a humming / vibration that seems more to the passenger side than the drivers side. You can also hear it decrease when you come down in speed and it dissappears below 25 mph. Its a 2003 F-450 CC 4x4 DRW with the v-10.
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I have a 2000 f350 v10 ext cab 8 ft bed 4wd,i replaced all 10 plugs all 10 coils at 40 mph the truck violently shakes an vibrates read on a few things that could be crack cylinder or bad pistons,i did a test on it an says low compression in 2 cylinders 1&2 what can I do an what is the best option for me as I just got the truck not even a month ago...
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I recently replaced my Ford Factory clutch with a new LUK kit, lever, pivot & hydraulics and I have to say it is absolutely perfect. If you are going to take the time to do the clutch, do it all. While we had it apart, I decided to push up my Up-Pipe replacement and do it while the transmission is out. What takes several hours to do is done in 30 mins this way. As we all know when we start in a job, we see other things and say well while it is apart I may as well do this, and do that. I decided to do the U-joints in the rear shaft. I had marked the shafts prior to removal for orientation but my assistant did not mark all 3 U-joint knuckles when he changed the joints and reinstalled the shaft.
I took the truck out for a drive and starting at about 15 MPH all the way to 60 ( I dared no faster) it was making me nauseous. Today I looked into it, marked current locations and started rotating front and rear joint 180 to no avail. I said lets just rotate the center joint and go from there. as I was pulling the carrier i noticed a HUGE but dull yellow arrow on the short shaft. I decided to look at the rear shaft and found a HUGE but dull yellow arrow 180 degs from the front. It looks like it could have been a factory mark. I repressed the center u-joint so the 2 arrows line up and the vibration went away. I can not express the aggravation this could have caused if not for those arrows. Take the time to properly index the drive shafts, it will save you tons of time and agitation.
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So my '99 F350 4x4 is making a clunking sound and there is a distinct jolt in the truck while this is occurring.
Symptoms: From a stop while accelerating, there is a distinct jolt and clunk. The best way I can describe the feeling is like something isn't tightened down all the way so there is a split second while inertia is generated and the "looseness" catches up to the acceleration.
When stopping, the clunk and jolt is generated when the truck comes to a complete stop. When the truck rebounds backwards a bit because of the suspension pulls it backwards after stopping, you will hear the clunk again.
I replaced the ball joints a week ago an a wheel hub bearing on the right side. I don't recall this before these repairs, but it may have been making this noise. I was more focused on the grinding from the wheel bearing so I may not have noticed the clunk and jolt then.
Where I should start looking for the problem?
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2004 6.0L Excursion Limited 4x4.
I recently developed a "rumble" with vibration while braking. I describe it as a rumble because I associate it to a similar sound, cadence, and feeling as if you were slowing down on the rumble strips you find on the side of the highway.
It is mostly only noticeable at lower speeds. I know the sound and feeling of warped rotors, but this seems different. If it makes any difference, one issue I've been dealing with is that the front transfer case does not release when 4x4 is off and hubs are in AUTO.
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Truck is a stock 2001 f250 7.3 with 205,000 miles. When accelerating or braking from about 40-60mph it starts to shake a little bit. When braking it shakes a lot more from 60 down to 40. But the faster you speed up the less it shakes when taking off. Looked at everything underneath is tight, and it has stock a stock steering stabilizer. Would a new stabilizer fix this you think?
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First off I want to say my truck isnt throwing any codes, nor am I loosing any pressure on the brake peddle. What is going on is my brakes are working just fine I can stop from any speed and my brakes are performing just fine until I slow to about 5mph.
From 5mph to 0mph it almost feels like I slide on ice for a second, and you hear a sound almost like what you hear when your ABS kicks in. I will feel a slight fluctuation in the brake peddle and then my truck comes to a stop. It is the darnest thing. One mechanic I spoke to said he thought is was the vacuum system, another thought it may be the brake sensors....
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While engine braking I started hearing a squeal under the hood , when I started accelerating it became a little louder, I pulled over and when I rev it up it gets louder and has a little rattle sound, sounds like it coming from the turbo....
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