Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Stator Unlocks Increasing Rpm By 400 Every Time Let Of The Pedal
Apr 10, 2016
Why does the stator unlock every time I let of the gas on my 2004 6.0, I have been trying to increase the gas mileage on my truck and to me the number one problem is that every time I let of the pedel the stator unlocks increasing my rpm by 400. in my chevy the stator only unlocked if I touched the brakes or down shifted.
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I have a 2002 f350 7.3 PS that every time I touch the brake pedal it blows the #6 fuse(trailer tow brake/turn signal). I need to use my trailer.
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I have a 2009 F350 and use it almost exclusively for towing. Every time I stop to fill up or eat or whatever I have to push the tow haul button again when I start the truck- no big deal really just annoying at times because I don't always remember to turn it back on. Is there a way to have it turn on with the button and not turn off until I push it again (even after the trucks been turned off)? I suppose while we're on the subject same with the heated seats?
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My truck was in 4x4 and would squeal all the time on and off. Here is the situation today, this has happened prior but i just didn't post on here until it lasted for 30 miles on the highway.
4x4 system:
-MM hubs
-all stock minus the hubs
-Pass side vac hose melted against tire (doesn't matter with the MM hubs but too much info is not a bad thing)
-Replaced u-joints in November
-the screeching when not engaged predates the MM hubs that i installed, it occurred when i had my auto hubs locked last year because they would not disengage
Trip:
-average of 45mph
-30 miles from NH to MA (route 3)
-truck was operating up to temp
When it occurs:
-Under Acceleration
-15-45 mph
- when going from stop-30 it makes a hollow tapping noise instead of the screech
- when hubs are locked and t-case is NOT engaged it screeches for about 1 miles and then stops
Sound in the video occurs within the first 8 seconds, its faint in he video but very loud in person. Highway didn't look that bad in the video but i was in a plowed sctretch other than that the last 25 miles were through about an inch of snow and slush.
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Just did my first oil change on my 2015 Super Duty 6.2 engine. I got the Fram filter the book called for, a PH-2. There's goobs of room for the longer filter. Would that be the PH8A? The book is about to trying to figure the comparable long vs short filter. Why do they insist on those short filters when a full size will fit? My Dodge Ram Hemi was the same way.
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Actually a couple of questions. I've had one oil change in my F250 6.7. Getting close to the second one. So, my question is, what is the computer using to decide when to tell you that you should change the oil? And, if you changed to a synthetic oil, could you go longer between changes? And, if so, would the truck's sensors be able to tell the difference in the type of oil being used?
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Noticed the other day that the engine fan on my 2013 6.2powered F250 runs all the time. It's like it has two speeds- really fast where you can hear it running with the hood closed and a slightly slower speed where it still turns fast enough that you can't make out the individual blades. Is this normal with outside temps in the single digits.
ETA. it does this with the heater off also.I've noticed since it's cooled down this winter that when I slow down to drive through town or hit a stop sign my coolant temp needle drops a bit. Thought maybe the fan running is overcooling the engine or maybe it's always done that and I've just never noticed it before.
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My truck threw a check engine yesterday, P1151 and P1152. What could be the problem? 04 f350 with 5.4 with 142,xxx on her
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A good while back I seen a thread to do this , but can't locate it now. I have a 2012 F250 and looking to make my night time driving better ....... I want to run both low and high beams at the same time and getting the fog lamps to stay on when going from low to high beam.
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 with 6.4. Having alot of problems with the 4X4. Went to put the truck in 4 wheel drive one day and noticed the light on the dash never came on to engage 4X4. Of course we had a big snow storm coming and I didn't have 4 wheel drive. I drove the truck across town and decided to just try 4x4 again and it worked that time. I got the light on the dash and could hear the transfer case shift motor engage. Came out a little later and tried it and it wasn't working again. Took truck to shop where they replaced transfer case shift motor with a remaned motor from oriellys.
4x4 worked for a few weeks then just started doing the same thing again. We thought maybe that motor had problems also so had it replaced too. Truck is still doing the same stuff. Sometimes it works sometimes it doesn't. Figured out that if its not working and I leave it in 4x4 and unhook power to shift motor then plug it back in it will engage 4x4. I've seen some post on here but sounds like everyone i've seen their motor just stops and doesn't work at all.
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2012 F250 left turn signal on all the time no right turn signal.
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I have a 2013 F350 Lariat. Recently, the backup camera has stopped working about 1/3rd of the time. When it doesn't work, a yellow triangle icon appears on the screen with " Camera unavailable. See dealer." The dealer has checked it, twice, and is unable to locate the problem.
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What is the spark plug pattern on the 460 n where the wires go on the cap. And also how to time it.
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Im getting this almost every time I start it up. It happened once about a month ago, then more often. Now almost every time.
Truck has 1700 mi
I hate to have to bring it to Ford so soon
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Just bought an 02 Super Duty 7.3 that has day time running light. Is there a way to disable this feature?
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It seems like recently almost every time I start my truck it beeps 5 beeps 5 times. so it beeps 25 times. what could this be and how do i get rid of it. I wear my seatbelt so it is not that. There has to be a relay or something to stop the dam thing from doing it.
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My 2005 F-250 6.0 liter Diesel FX4 Lariat is blowing AC through defrost only all the time. I have manual locking hubs and when I engage 4x4 it works perfectly through the ESOF switch. So I am assuming the vacuum pump and lines to the hubs are in good working order but there is possibly a cracked line or fuse blown? I've only had the truck for 2 days and it just happened after purchase. I'm a little unfamiliar with checking vacuum but have done reading and I believe I can do it. I am going to get a manual hand pump and pump to 20lbs and loss shouldn't exceed 1lb per minute. I just need to know which direction to look. Everyone else had their 4x4 not working and I seem to be the only one posting that has ESOF 4x4 capability when the defrost only issue is on.
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I'm assuming I might have a coil going but I'm not sure. Yesterday morning and this morning I started my truck and it was fine, I backed out the driveway again truck was fine. I put it into D and pull forward it was fine till I hit about 1300rpm, then it felt trike the truck was stumbling, I went a little faster to 1500/1600rpm and it stopped, as soon as I slowed up and then hit the go pedal it started again at around 1300rpm and stayed till 1600rpm and then it went away. So this is twice now two days in a row this has happened the exact way and only in the morning and goes away with no problems. I hooked up my SCT X3 and there are no codes and when it stumbles I have no lights come up. What I should do?
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I just brought home an 04 F350. It is a V10, 6 speed, with 30,600 verified miles on it. It runs and drives fantastic, and that V10 is impressive! I am very impressed. I have noticed that the compressor cycles, even with the dial in the off position. Is this normal for the super duty, or is something amiss? If something is wrong, what direction do I look in?
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Put in 2.5" leveling blocks under front coil springs. Now I hear a clunk nearly every time I turn to the right. Why this might be?
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I have a 1999 F250 Superduty with power tow mirrors. Both mirrors are having this issue. It seems both motors moving the mirrors are trying to run at the same time. I tried replacing the control switch since both mirrors are having the issue, but got the same results. Holding the switch to move the mirrors out causes it to move down and out. Moving it in and it goes up and in. I know from experience with electric on a vehicle that when funny things happen, its usually because it lost the ground.
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