Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Starters Burning Up On Regular Basis
Jun 16, 2014
Friend brought me his 2001 F250 SD 7.3 to see if I can figure out what is wrong with it. He has had it to several shops to no avail. It started with lights coming on and off periodically and ended with starters burning up on a regular basis. 3 or 4 by now. It will roll over on it's own and do all kinds of crazy stuff. Shops have pretty much stuck with swapping starters and solenoids but I don't think that is it. I have pulled the main fuse block under the hood and it is clean, next the one under the dash.
I can't see moisture in the GEM but there was moisture on the outside of the box. The GEM looks OK but that doesn't really mean anything. I put a Ford scanner on it (AutoEnguity type) and it scanned and brought uo several GEM failures but not sure if that is from hooking and unhooking stuff. I have had to keep bat cables unhooked as I am afraid it will burn up when no one around. When I scanned I had to hook up batteries and when I turned on the ignition it went crazy with flashing lights and relays clicking from behind the dash. I cleared the codes and it stopped. GEM? Can GEM's be tested? I know they can be re programmed so why not tested?
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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What all would be involved in swapping from regular ac controls to automatic climate control like the lariats have on a 2015 xlt superduty?
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I got this for R180000 SA RAND the turbo blow so they replaced it the start it 24v starter keeps burning so another try and he replaced the emi i try to start after i got fuel pump running but no luck how can i test to see if injectors getting power to open i got not special tools as in SA is up to ........ No smoke motor just crank ....
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I have a 2000 F250 SD 4x4. I noticed the other day that after driving the truck for 10 miles or more and then stopping and getting back in it feels like the parking brake is on. I drove the truck home and on my way back I smelled brakes burning but it wasn't pulling while driving or braking. When I got home I put my head in the wheel well to get a look at the brakes on the drivers side it seemed ok, but when I did it on the passenger side it was hot as Hades! It's been my experience that if the caliper is hanging up it will pull either while braking or regular driving. I just want a better idea before I go ahead and buy a new caliper and hose and tear the dang thing apart.
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I just got a 2001 F250 with a Rebuilt V8 5.4 with 310,000 miles about two months ago I changed the oil about three weeks ago. I put full synthetic 5-20w and I went to check the level today and it was way low. I see no leaks and I don't see it mixing with the radiator fluid. Is this normal might it just be burning oil ? I do drive the truck at least 100 miles a day.
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I just got this truck and didn't have any strange odors other than brake caliper which got replaced immediately. I got 4 new Mastercraft AXT tires last week and two days before that I got a muffler installed. I put a flowmaster on it (black) Now if I drive it about three four miles, I get a smell coming from somewhere which I can't locate because nothing is hot and it goes away within a few minutes so I cant pin point it. At first i thought it smelled like rubber heating up, but now not sure. I may take it back to tire dealer and have him check all the tires for balance. I had them do an alignment, so I would hope it isn't that. The smell came with the new tires I think....I had the exhaust worked on two days prior to that and didn't notice anything after that. I haven't checked anything else, but there isn't anything hot when I jump out and start sniffing around. Would tires do that if NEW or out of balance?
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For the first time while towing a bumper pull trailer, started getting a very strong burning smell, only while going up decent size hills. After the climb, smell goes away. Kind of smells like burning rubber or wiring, but that should be constant and not just while up hill.
Checked tranny fluid and it didn't look burnt or low and never saw visible smoke. Have seen this discussed before but with no definitive conclusions. Truck has 150K on it and has long ago lost most of its towing power and the hills also drop the speed to around 45mph from 70 when I hit the big ones.
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Just purchased a 2014 f350 dsl with 83,000 miles. Had a wheel balance issue when I got it, since fixed. Hooked my 5th wheel up and noticed a chatter/vibration in 1st gear (automatic trans). Took it to the dealer, they reset the computer and I'm to drive it 100 mile and see if it goes away. They dropped the pan and there was a little debris, but the fluid wasn't burnt. What's going on?
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When starting up my 2011 F-250 Gas, I have a burning smell coming from my vents for about a minute then it goes away. It smells like new electronics. My A/C seems extra cold as well. We just got back from a 3800 mile vacation. Its been going on now for about 3 weeks and never changes...
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So just about every trip that's over 20 minutes I'll get a smell, seems like it's coming thru the vents and it smells like burning wires or like you turned on your heat in your house for the first time of the year.... Is this normal??
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I have an 04 f250 with a 5.4 I smelled something like burning and the truck shut down. the fuse panel was warm. after a min or so it starts back up never know how far till it stalls again.
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The wife and I ventured out last Friday evening to run a few errands. When we returned to the house and pulled into the garage, we both smelled burning brake pad. I felt the rear wheels, the drivers side was too hot to touch.
Dragging brake caliper. I got online and reserved a drivers side caliper and a set of pads at NAPA. Saturday morning I removed the caliper. Much to my surprise, one of the caliper pistons was broken into multiple pieces.
I took the offending caliper to NAPA and picked up the new caliper and a set of pads.
Side note - NAPA seems to think the 2007 trucks have calipers that mount in front of the axle, not behind the axle. They will try to sell you a passenger side caliper and tell you it is a driver side caliper. It will bolt up fine, but the bleeder valve will be at the bottom of the caliper instead of the top. You'll never get the air out of the caliper.
Got back home, bolted up the new caliper and pads, then bled the system. All worked well.
I decided to throw new pads on the passenger side brakes as well, since I had 2 remaining. I took off the passenger side caliper, much to my surprise I found a cracked and broken piston on that side also! Another run to NAPA to pick up another caliper. Installed, bled the system again, all working well.
Now, I have never seen a cracked and broken caliper piston like this, let alone one on each side of the rear axle. What might have caused this? About a year ago I had a shop install new backing plates. The pads and calipers are about 3 years old, same shop installed those.
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I know this has been talked about many times and how to solve the issue but thought I would ask some other questions too. Earlier in the summer, I did grease the slider pins as preventative maintenance. I don't drive my truck all that much and when I used it yesterday, (about 30 minute drive) I came home to burning brake smell. I'm wondering if enough heat would cause the caliper to go bad? Should I just grease the pins again or change out some parts?
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Will leaving the parking brake on burn up the axle seals? My parking brake isn't working well at the moment. I need new ones from all the fluid my bad seals leaked on them. So, at the moment they just scrub a bit while its engaged. However, today I found out that my parking brake light for one reason or another is not working and I got in a hurry and didn't release the brake. by the time I got to where I was headed (about 15 miles), I could smell gear fluid burning and my driver side rear was smoking. I'm hoping its the fluid that was already soaked into the shoes. I did find a drop of fluid on the bottom of my brake caliper.
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I have had the truck just under a year. It has 104k on it i only drive it on weekends. Last weekend going to Home Depot about 15 miles got out and could smell brakes burning. Felt the wheels and the right rear was very hot. Got back home no smell but still hot not as hot as earlier. Pulled the wheel off it looks as if the pads and calipers are fairly new paint is still on them caliper is a TRW. The pads were stuck in the carrier even the stainless clip ends look rusted.
Cleaned it all up both sides lubed the pad carrier with pin lube. Pushed the calipers back in some both sides went in easy. The right rotor has definitley been hot. Put it all back together and went for a test drive. Came back no problems checked the temperature with a laser type heat thermometer all wheels were around 140 f. Went out yesterday morning stopped and could smell the brakes again. Drove it back home and the right rear was 300 f. others 150 to 160 f.
Jacked it up put it in neutral and the you can spin the wheels by hand. Started the truck had the wife get in put it in drive wheels turning applied the brakes they stopped let go they turn freely again tried the parking brake it works fine also. So do I buy new calipers and brakes or maybe is the wheel bearing going bad causing the brakes to heat up?ied.
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I have a 2002 ford f350 triton 5.4 V8. I just put front brake pads on my truck today. Started driving around and i could smell burning brakes. Stopped and alot of smoke was coming from my brakes on my front passenger side but nothing from the front drivers side. Replaced all the brake pads on the front. What is making them so hot?
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I pulled into my driveway after a 30 minute drive and smelled burning brakes. The right front was the culprit so I took a garden hose and cooled it down. The next day I remove the caliper and one of the pistons fell apart. So I need a new caliper and trying to decide if I buy after market or go with Motorcraft? I think the rotor, caliper, and pads are original since I the rotor is stamped Ford and the caliper bracket has TRW and Ford markings.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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