Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Starter Engages After Truck Is Running
Dec 23, 2016
I have a 2004 to 250 super duty 5.4 and automatic trans it has about 233,000 miles on it. Yesterday when I started my truck I could see my reverse lights were stuck on against the garage door in the dark. After I put the truck in drive the lights went out later on I shift at the truck and to park and the starter engaged I put the truck in neutral and it stopped the starter from running after doing that several times the truck now does it even when it's in reverse or neutral. I have to leave it in drive and push the emergency brake on I am in and out of the truck all day long. I did change the shift to blast may I check the screws on the back of the shift to bury thing seems fine.
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I have a 02 F250 Super Duty XLT with a triton V8 with a automatic transmission . and when I shift into reverse after driving for a while the starter engages . It does not happen all the time . If i start up the truck and shift through or into reverse it doesn't happen . the only time it happens is when i've been driving for awhile and want to back up or park it will only do it once or twice after each drive so trying to get it to happen while in the shop is almost impossible . could this be caused by the transmission range sensor . I just had the code P0705 (transmission range sensor , A circuit input ) come on but the problem has been happening for a few weeks before that code came up .
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Truck was running fine up until now. After the WTS light goes out, I crank it and.... nothing. It doesn't even try. It's not a battery problem. I have 12.6 V from each battery before and after cranking. The lights are bright, the horn works, the dash lights are strong and bright all both before and after cranking. It just doesn't want to engage the starter. I tried my backup key as well, thinking it might be a problem with the PATS. No dice. Where to start looking?
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I have a 2010 F250 V10 4x4. about every 3-4 times when you start the truck....it seems as though the starter "sticks". If I catch it and shut it off and then turn the key right back it fires up and does not stick. Its as if the gear is staying kicked out into the flywheel. Are we thinking the starter itself? I'm thinking starter...but looking for input before I crawl under it.
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I have a 96 f350 that I just replaced the batteries on and now when I go to start it does not hardly turn over. Starter just barely turns motor over and definitely not fast enough to start truck. Battery connections are tight and starter was replaced about 4 months ago.
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On my 2002 7.3 liter for the last about 1 week it has been getting harder and harder to start. Up until yesterday when it will not start at all. What it does is this. A week ago I noticed it cranked slightly weaker but still ran perfect once started. This has progressed slowly but definitely. It has never gotten better, only worse. Even with jumper cables hooked up it does not improve at all. The starter is a Carquest POS but only has 50 thousand miles on it.
I have driven hundreds of miles with this problem in the last week and the truck has never skipped a beat aside from the starting issue. I took the batteries in to no less than 3 places and they all said the batteries are good. However when I put my multimeter on them when it is being cranked the volts drop from 12.6is down to about 8 volts. When I did get it started the other day and put a meter on it the batteries were charging up to around 13.7 or so.
When there is no load on batteries they show good but have been unable to get a solid answer if any of these places are load testing them: I am convinced they are not. I checked the resistance of the cables and they all have none. The grounds are all good. So I pulled the starter and took it in as a last result. They say the starter is good also! The connections were all tight and I cleaned them all very well.
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Since yesterday, every time I turn the key off and remove it from the ignition the truck just keeps running. Engine, radio, according and everything just like the key was still there. When I press the unlock button it shuts everything down. It is a 2014 F250 with 4500 miles on it. I don't know if I did something or what but I am confused.
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I have a 1999 Ford F350 5.4L 4x4. I had a check engine code on my truck a couple of months ago. The truck was running fine then. The light went away and I forgot about the issue. In the last week the truck began to run like crap; hesitation during hwy speeds. The truck is running with hesitation in 3rd, 4th, and 5th gear. In low gears the truck seems to run just fine. I have changed the EGR valve as well as the fuel filter. Check engine light is not on but the problem has not gotten any better.
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I Have a 2002 F 250 That I recently changed the fuel pump. and now I'm having a tail light problem. when i start the truck, my tail lights and plate lights comes on (dim). if i turn my head lights on the truck stalls out. if i step on the brake or put the truck in reverse it stalls out. if i put it in drive it runs just fine. i checked my fuses and relays and the problem is still there even when the relay and fuse for the lights are out. when i turn the truck off all the light go out.
can't seem to find any info on this problem anywhere.
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My 2003 6.0 truck lost most of its power. It has the SCT programmer. It used to run great it would roll coal really well then it slowly started to run worse. Now it runs really sluggish especially when its cold. IT takes forever to warm up. On the freeway when ur going a constant speed it bucks and jerks a lot. It won't roll coal anymore and just runs like crap. A mechanic said I had 3 bad injectors. But I don't believe it.
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I have a 2004 f250 6.8L and recently I've notice the trick not running strong. Is hesitating when i step on the gas pedal. For example, I am driving on the feeder road and fixing to get on the freeway ramp, well i have to spent a bit harder on has pedal to gain speed, but it seems its struggling and I can hear muffler making like a flapping noise. Also when I am going between 40-65mph and I spent on it, the tricks kind of jerks and vibrates. Feels like its coming from transmission. I let go and step on it again and it goes away. What to check??
Miles : 96k
Year: 2004
No Check Engine Light
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After doing a test drive after installing an 8" lift on my 2000 6-speed manual diesel F-250, I noticed that while the 4X4 engages, it won't shift into Low. I've had this truck 7 years and know the drill: complete stop, foot on the brake, clutch to the floor, transmission in neutral, and it usually takes a couple seconds. I've tried different combinations of backing up first, going straight from 2WD to 4Low, etc and still no 4Low.
As far as I know the ESOF transfer case is all electronic and vacuum doesn't play a role. I don't recall ever seeing a vacuum line coming out of it anyway.
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1999 f250 super duty crew cab 7.3 psd : Why my 4wd is engaging and disengaging by itself? I recently had a vac leak which caused the HVAC controls to stop working and the ESOF stopped working also. I found a creak in the PVH solenoid and replaced it. I also replaced the 2 vac lines going from the hard line down to the hub. The HVAC controls work fine but now the 4wd is turning on and off when ever it feels like it. I have removed the selector button in the cab, disconnected the plug from the PVH solenoid, and even disconnected the vac lines from the hub. The problem still persists.
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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The truck I'm working on is a 2003 f550 with a 6.0, and 382000 kilometers. My service truck died on me couple days ago, while running. As I rolled to a stop, I noticed that my temp gauge on the dash dropped to cold. (Truck was hot). Tried starting, and I have a crank, no start situation.
After towing it to my shop at work, I hooked it up to my scanner, and found that the pcm will not communicate with the scanner (otc genisis). I have no injector buzz with key on, wait to start light comes on for an abnormally long time. I have 48.3 volts on the ficm,(4 screw), and haven't been able to find any chafed wires as of yet.
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I am having an issue with a Ford f250, 5.4L, granted this problem existed before and after new A/C compressor, dryer, evaporator, vent door switch, blower motor resistor, new evac and recharge, good pressures no leaks.........Now my problem is the truck runs perfect but when the ac engages at idle the engine bogs down and it seems the clutch is constantly engaging and disengaging........AC blows cold, no issues there, does this sound like an IAC valve problem????
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I have a 2003 F250 Super Duty 5.4 crew cab. Cruise light comes on when engaged but does not work. I did some research on why its not working checked wiring at the throttle body it seemed ok, Fuse is ok. Also did the self test and everything passed with just one flash but cruise still does not work. I read about many problems with the brake pressure switch but would it pass the self test if that pressure switch was bad? Also what should a switch cost. Local dealer wanted $125.00 for a new one and I have read where they cost around $15.00 - $20.00.
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2002 Ford F250 V10 Auto... When I put the transmission into reverse, the starter kicks in...
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I got this for R180000 SA RAND the turbo blow so they replaced it the start it 24v starter keeps burning so another try and he replaced the emi i try to start after i got fuel pump running but no luck how can i test to see if injectors getting power to open i got not special tools as in SA is up to ........ No smoke motor just crank ....
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We have an 1999 f-450 super duty with a cube van box that we use for pickup. About a month ago the radio and lights started to stay on, various other electronics did the same.
we found mostly it points to the gem module...was unable to obtain a new one so we found a use one. For the time being we started disconnecting the battery ( would kill both overnight ) and magically....everything was working again so we didn't bother installed the used GEM.
Now....its given Chirstine a run for her money and auditioning for a maximum overdrive reboot The starter started to turn. Took the keys outa the ignition but a few moments later it started again. Got to the point the starter wouldn't stop and we were running around the shop looking for tools to disconnect the batteries.
Its not starting the engine so the ignition should be ok, its just powering the starter motor. checked the relay and it seems to be working fine. We tried to install the GEM we bought however, it seems its not the right part and its too late to return it now so, we are trying to find a new one ( not used ) from somewhere. so the gem is bad as the radio, blower motor etc comes on and off at will but here's the kicker.... with the GEM removed...the starter is still powering itself....
Thought maybe the fuse box got moisture or something, put a heater on it to dry it out. Pulled the starter fuse, turned off...pulled radio fuse samething
so i think the fuse box is ok.
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3. Turn the key lights and fuel pump come on but the starter wont crank. I replaced the starter and checked all the fuses i could find. The only way i can get the truck to crank is by jumping the relay under the hood .
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