1999 f250 7.3 diesel stalls and pushes while coming to stop. So when I am stopping my truck it will try to keep accelerating then it will die. It has almost push me into a other car in front of me. I can put it in neutral to keep it from dying but it is idling just fine. When I put it back in drive it acts just fine not trying to push the truck.
View 1 RepliesI have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
View 7 RepliesDriving into work this morning, I came up to the first stop sign before I get on the "freeway" and noticed a weird vibration. As I slowed to stop I could have sworn it felt like the engine was being lugged, the same feeling you get in a manual when you try to come to a stop without using the clutch. I thought for sure the engine was going to die. The engine RPMs dropped to about 800-900 RPM and once I got to a complete stop the RPMs went back to normal.
It seemed to do this every time I came to a stop. Could my torque converter be locking up and not releasing as it supposed to causing the lugging sensation I'm getting? The truck accelerates fine and idles fine once stopped, but when slowing I get that weird vibration and maybe the lugging sensation is just in my imagination and has nothing to do with the engine.
I do have a vibration from a missing wheel weight, but that's usually felt at about 34-35 mph. In addition, I also have a bit of a brake vibration when slowing down quickly, such as when slowing quickly from 65 to turn off the highway onto my local road, but this is a completely different vibration.
250 2006 Superduty v10. Codes p2106 and p2135 ... Only occasionally when coming to a stop it shudders like it would stall. It happens for just a few seconds then ok again but wrench light comes on. After the next shut off and start the light goes out. I had the throttle control position sensor checked and they said it was ok. Got a software update at Ford. I hate to just start replacing expensive parts. I have about 60000 miles and it is a great truck otherwise.
View 1 RepliesThe front brakes on my '02 Super Duty squeal a little from time to time, but today have been squealing mildly while driving and get louder the further down I press the brake pedal until coming to a stop. All new brakes were installed less than one year ago.
View 11 RepliesI have a 2000 ford f350 7.3l with a auto transmission(4r100) and I have had problems with it . It started a while back when the transmission is cold like in the morning when I put it in drive it acts like when you don't push the cluch in on a standard when coming to a stop kind like it's bucking and this only happens when it's cold when it's nice and warmed it's fine so I changed the whole transmission and put a billet torque converter and I'm still having the same problem can it be a sensor or something electrical ?
View 14 RepliesEvery once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
I have my 2004 f250 6.8L. Recently my truck has been having issue with the oil needle. When im stopped or coming to a stop my Check Gauge light comes on and my oil needle drops all the way down. As soon i step on gas it goes right back up. What could it be?
View 7 RepliesAm I the only one who thinks the tire pressure monitoring system is a silly feature? Is there any way to delete this and stop the light from coming up on the dash? I want to do new wheels and tires on my 2008 f250 and I don't want to deal with the tpms. Can it be tuned out from the computer?
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 ford f250 6.0 I was driving back home from a interview and my truck died at a stop light it would crank but no start I tried replacing the stc fitting didn't work so the I replaced the ipr still didn't work bought a new hpop still didn't work I'm lost at this point I have low pressure oil pump is working new icp, what is going on?
View 8 Repliesi have an 04 f250 5.4 4x4 250k miles+ ...the truck has been acting weird lately. I has 0 power...i went to pass an 18 wheeler today at about 15 mph and gave it about half throttle...well it held first gear till about 5 grand then slammed into 2nd...It just has 0 umph ... it wont even consistanly pick up speed at half throttle or over..the rpms will stop ...then pick up...then stop...it always accelerated smoothly....it is bogging really bad...it was downshifting into 3rd today on little overpass hills that it NEVER does that on...something is telling me torque converter BTW no codes and no flashing overdrive light
View 14 RepliesSo I'm new to this, but heard that there a lot of great people on here that have tons of knowledge. So here goes. I have a 03 7.3 f250. I'm have trouble with the first initial 20 minutes of the truck starting. It starts fine but if I throw it drive and start to go it's shakes bad runs horrible and will sometimes stall out. If I let it idle for 15 to 20 minutes first and then drive it it runs perfect. I have replace the fuel filter, and air filter. The truck has roughly 125000 miles on it.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2005 Ford F-350 service truck,,it has a 5.4L 3V gas engine and has 159869 miles on it. No codes!! Truck starts,,idle races up to 900-1000 rpms and begins to drop to 5-600,,it will just bog or CHAAAAWWWWW if you touch the throttle,,let off and it will most times stall. It is unable to move the truck,,,,start it up and for a slit second it acts as it will rev up but fails and just goes CHAAAAAWWWWW out the intake. I just dont know where to turn on this deal,,Richie 1-774-406-7289 or [email protected].
View 10 RepliesI've got a 2004 f450 6.0 diesel. This thing will start and run great when it's cold. Then when it gets to operating temp, around 190, it will shut down. This is getting worse and worse.
A little history, it was doing this for awhile and a had a few other issues before this. Puking antifreeze, stiction issues, and bad exhaust manifold. Since it wasn't running great I figured why not pull that cab and take care of these issues.
As of last week she got new head gaskets, new exhaust manifold, new injectors, updated standpipes, updated dummy plugs, new o rings on hpop (yellow on the bottom), and a new pipe to the oil pump. I have the old style it's not the stc fitting.
All that work, it still stalls when warm. I monitor with a scan gauge 2. ( Big diesel tech Ron's fan) ...
First thing, give here two second crank start right up, runs better then ever. Gets to operating temp, rev it up, then stalls. Ipc is at 85% ipr gets up to 180 psi.
Unplug ipc, shows 765 psi on the ipr still no start. Put shop air to her and I can't hear any leaks ( probably 15 mins or so).
I have a 1999 f250 that runs and drives great but the only issue I have is when I baby the gas pedal it stalls a little and when I give it more gas it's fine or if. I'm going 50mph then let off gas and then baby the pedal it's stalls a little.
View 6 RepliesAs a follow up to my problem of intermittent stall and hard start, it is getting more pronounced. Now, every once in a while, it will start. Mostly it will not start.
This morning I connected an OBD2 meter with the key on and engine off. It told me that there are no DTC's. As I was attempting to run enhanced DTC's the code reader lost link with the computer. The connection icon was on but it lost the link. At one point, after several tries, I got the link back but it didn't last too long before it was lost again.
This is the same symptom that I have with running the engine. It will run and then shut off. After a hard start, it will start and run just fine and then shut off again.
My question is this. Can I still have power to the PCM and loose power to the processor? Is there a fuse or relay that could be causing this problem? If not, could the problem be a faulty PCM.
I recently purchased this 2003 F350 DRW with the 7.3L, automatic trans. Truck has 140k on it. Three times now while the truck has been idling, the engine just died. The first time was a couple of weeks ago when I was pulling out of the driveway. Then again yesterday twice, once while just sitting at a stop sign. Each time it has started right up and ran fine.What is going on here?
View 1 RepliesI just bought this 99 f250 7.3 Powerstroke last week.. drove it all week fine, I car pool with a family member to work and asked his girlfriend to plug my truck in for me, well she didn't and it had stalled on the way home one morning but started up after cranking a few times i thought nothing of it. Drove it a little bit that day and it was fine, while I let it idle in my drive way as I prepared to go work it started running really rough then died. It took a long time to start again..now it's happening all the time. I changed the fuel filter and someones telling me there's air in the lines..
View 5 Replies2014 F250 SuperDuty 6.2L gasser, x-cab long bed work truck. 105k miles, original owner, 1 driver, mostly highway miles, well maintained and super clean truck.
First issue occurred at 83k miles, Aug 2016. Warm summer day climbing I-70 in CO, slightly loaded, and just entered the Eisenhower tunnel (11,150' altitude). Lost power, no RPMs - not running, I put it in N and rolled as far as I could. Hazards on and no-where to pull over, hugging the wall and blocking one lane. Power OK - will crank, no fire. 1/3 tank on the fuel gauge and >100 miles distance to empty on the trip computer. Tunnel rescue shut down traffic and pushed me out into the daylight.
After waiting an hour to fill our paper work for disabling the interstate tunnel I returned to the truck which quickly started. No symptoms, no lights, no codes. Topped off the fuel tank after a easy 15 mile drive downhill. Drove another 800 miles symptom free to my destination and checked it in at the dealer. At this time a check engine light had finally illuminated - PO420. I shared the story of stalling out at highway speeds with the Service Writer. Dealer replaced the cats, confirmed fuel pressure OK, computer condition OK, serviced the trans (at my request).
No symptoms reoccurred during the next 20k miles until last weekend. 105k on the OD now. Heading to Flagstaff, AZ on I-40 in similar conditions. Hot, AC running, climbing in elevation, slightly loaded, running on the bottom 1/3 of the fuel tank... Died while cruising at 79 mph. Well, at least this time I wasn't in a tunnel and had a shoulder to pull off on. Deja-Vu - full power, radio on, no engine lights, gauges normal, fuel reads over 1/4 tank, >100 miles till empty on the trip computer - won't start. Cranks, but no fire. Some sputtering during start attempts must have triggered the next trouble code.
Opened the hood, removed the gas cap, let it vent and cool for about 30-40 mins while I took a walk. Returned to the truck which easily started and let me drive to the next fuel station, 30 miles away. This time the check engine light stayed illuminated. It took 24 gals of fuel. Drove 3 more hours and almost 200 miles without symptoms - check engine light still illuminated keeping me curious and fully alert along the way.
Got the codes pulled at a parts store that was open on Sunday. PO300 & PO301. Random misfires and cylinder 1 misfires. Sounds consistent with poor fuel supply? Spent the rest of the day searching forums for any clue to this highway stalling. All I came up with was to clear the computer - disconnect battery, turn lights on, wait 15 mins, reconnect battery, start engine, apply brake, drive, etc. This and another full tank of gas gave me enough courage to set out on my trip home.
Next occurrence was just outside of Santa Fe, NM. Similar conditions again: Hot day, AC kicking, Interstate travelling about 80mph, slightly loaded, climbing in elevation, fuel tank just below half - stalled out. Repeat previous learned routine. Open hood, vent gas cap, walk it off for 30 mins, return to truck, start it up. Drive to next town and top off with fuel about 30 miles away - only took 16 gals! Made it home 4 hours later without stopping. No repeat symptoms, no check engine lights.
The next day a code - PO420. Catalytic efficiency below threshold.
Quick recap:
6.2L gas engine stalling at hwy speeds.
Cruising between 65-80mph
-Interstate travel - no stops between last fillup and stall.
-Warm weather, AC on
-Running on bottom ~1/2 tank
-climbing in elevation, slightly loaded
To clarify: slightly loaded - no trailer, maybe 1,500 lbs bed cargo, mostly wind drag. The most I have pumped into the fuel tank is 29-30 gals or so. I assume I have the 34 or 35 gal tank. Never seen the calculated "distance to empty" below 40 miles.
I have an 04 f250 with a 5.4 I smelled something like burning and the truck shut down. the fuse panel was warm. after a min or so it starts back up never know how far till it stalls again.
View 4 RepliesI have a 2001 F-250 7.3 diesel with an automatic trans. Over the last couple of months it has stalled 3-4 times while driving, always when slowing down but even at speeds of 15 mph or so. I did find a burnt vacuum line the other day. It comes out of some type of relay box located behind the battery and in front of the starter solenoid relay and is mounted on the fender. It has an electrical plug in the top and two vacuum lines at the bottom. I am hoping this is the cause of the truck dropping off of the idle circuit? But I don't know what the unit is so I cannot order the correct replacement lines.
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