Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Stalling Intermittently After Oil Cooler Replacement
Aug 29, 2013
Recently had an oil cooler EGR cooler replaced. On my first big tow broke down on a major highway. Got it towed to the dealership and diagnosed as a blown out IPR screen. Replace the entire IPR and had no problems the entire trip. A few week later I am sensing the same problems again that i had before the major blowout. Randomly while driving down the highway the truck will stall for a half second or so and then kick back in and continue fine. Seems like the truck loses fuel for a second and then regains itself.
And it's not always at speed either...sometimes just coming to a stop I can feel it. Now this has only happened three times in the past 10 days or so but seems like it needs to get addressed. These symptoms are similar to what I experienced before my major IPR blowout. After it was replaced I didn't have any of the stalling problems but its now happening again. Could I possibly have some gunk in the IPR again that's causing this intermittent problem? Or something else altogether?
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I have a problem with 2002 7.3dsl stalling out at low speed or letting your foot off the accelerator. How ever problem is intermittent. Also intermittently idles rough. What to check next.
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My 2006 F350 is starting to heat up on me while at lights and parked while idling. I am going to do a reverse flush with Restore and Restore Plus as per Nylyons guide.
I also plan to switch out the oil cooler and upgrade the EGR.
Engine Oil Cooler Upgraded EGR Cooler Kit Ford 6 0L OHV V8 Diesel Turbo ....
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I've got a thick layer of black soot-like buildup on the lower passenger side of my intercooler. Just bought the truck (2008 F250, 6.4L, CC, SWB, 4x4, 150K miles).
What would cause a buildup like this on the intercooler?
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I have Russell fittings and hose coming to hook up my new 6.0 cooler into my 5.4 powered truck. Have a question on the fittings on the bottom of the radiator for the cooler lines, first what is the 3/8" line called? Is it a double flare or what? And second question the female end that's into the plastic tank with the hex head does that unscrew or is it made into the tank? Trying to figure this out so I can overnight two adapters so I can get rid of the fugly hard line completely and use Russell braided line throughout my install
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My EGR cooler started to leak last week . Right now I have it , the oil cooler and HPOP out for the updated STC fitting. [9-05 Trk. build date with 2 piece fitting]
Yesterday I pulled the turbo apart to check the vanes .Was throwing a 0299 code for some time . It took half the day to separate the Unison ring from the housing,. Cleaned and freed it up. Unison ring shows no wear .but the mating surface of the turbo housing is corroded and not smooth. Shaft end play is fine.Would not put it back on if I were not selling this truck. Truck has 77,000 miles and in great shape.
How critical is having a smooth surface for the unison ring to mate to?
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Having problem with oil cooler pump throwing the wrench light? Dealer says it cools the oil and mine could be clogged a bit.. cost of total job around 8-10 k. And take cab off.
It seems when engine gets hot wrench light comes on cause not cooling oil down properly... it overheated. Gauges were very high.. Once when I was in full boost towing a ranger up a hill. First time it ever happened.. pulled over for 5 mins than started temp went back normal and finished tow no problem after that cause I kept boost lower!
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2010 F350 in my shop today. so, before dismantling the entire top of the motor for this inbred oil cooler job, is there anything else responsible for the P012 engine oil temp issue? it throws the wrench icon and cuts power and i pulled the P012F code.
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What's an acceptable GVW value when one is looking to replace the air to oil cooler for this transmission?
2001 F250 CC SB PSD 7.3 Edge
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Buddy is fixing his 6.0 2005 F450 with a blown turbo. Diagnosed by the dealer, but decided we could fix it ourselves. The dealer quoted a turbo and to pull the charge air cooler and clean. It looks like the turbo job is not too bad to do, but how big of a job is the R&R of the charge air cooler?
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So my 2000 f350 is leaking transmission fluid from the cooler line. It goes to the rear of the transmission, but where does it go to from there?
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I have read that the torqshift 5 speed in my 08 f350 he a thermostat in it that opens around 165-170. Is this thermostat to limit/stop the flow to the trans cooler? Does the trans fluid still move freely in the trans (pan, torque converter, valve body, ect), or does the thermostat restrict fluid movement inside the trans?
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I have a 2008 Ford F250 V-10 Superduty and recently I had a transmission cooler line start to leak. I ordered replacement lines and the tool for the quick disconnect. The line that's leaking is from the radiator to the quick disconnect. I was able to replace the one line, however the second line (problem area) has been a nightmare. The line cracked right at the quick disconnect fitting.
The hard line is tight in the fitting and corroded. broke the tool trying to remove from disconnect. The line is flush with the quick disconnect. How to get that out of the fitting? or another method of fix? Its a hard 1/2 line going into connect crimped to rubber line going to transmission.
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I blew a power steering cooler line yesterday and lost a bit of fluid. Removed and replaced the line, consequently losing most of the fluid in the system (during line replacement). Re-filled the system and now i have great power steering when driving but none at idle. If I bring my RPMs up about 150-200. I get it back in full force. Could my PS pump be on the way out or might this just be air in the system?
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2008 6.4L .... My ECT 191-197 and EOT 220-230 high side on interstate no load on truck air temp 70 degrees. Is this a sign thermostat failing. Is there a certain temp to determine if your cooler is fully clogged or just partially clogged? I plan on doing a flush with restore then restore plus. Is there any point in using restore with temps this high. Or do I have to break down and buy the half kit to bypass OEM oil cooler? I need this fixed ASAP hauling the RZR to arkansas in a week. I know ill mess something up if i try to pull a load with those temps.
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Turns out I have a loose injector head. The electrical body on top of the injector has separated from the bottom half of the injector. I do not know which injector it is or what side it is on. I know this is what happened because I found the head of the screw in my oil when I changed my oil for good measure and found the nut stuck to the oil plug.
2004.5 F250 SD XLT 4dr 6.0L
CAI, 4" Straight exhaust
EGR Delete, 6.4 Injector pump
Coolant filtration system.
New injectors al around
New ICP, New IPR, New Oil Cooler.
Recently Bulletproofed on ARP head studs, and the stock Head gasket,
New injector harness and FICM from DieselTech Ron
SCT tuner, running innovative diesel tunes. EGT Sensor
37x13.5r18 nitto trail grrappleers
No, I do not have a bad injector [Or I guess I do!!. This explains why it was testing ok. but still acting like a bad injector] , or a bad ICP. The Head is not leaking nor is the potentiometer [TPS] or CPS bad. All of these things have been replaced. Even the injector harness has been replaced. The only thing I have not done is remove the valve cover and making sure all the injectors are tight.
I recently had a contribution error on cylinder 8. Hence the extensive ends I went to above. The new harness and FICM connectors fixed that part of the problem, but apparently the bucking and stalling were not related to that.
No codes are coming up. I'm running an SCT tuner with Innovative Diesel's Extreme Street tune. 4" strait pipe, S&B CAI, 6.4l Injection pump, bulletproofed with ARP head studs, new oil cooler, egr delete, coolant filtration, EGT sensor, SCT tuner, etc etc. Everything but larger injectors. [was coming next]
The truck runs perfect, actually better than perfect after the harness, TPS repair, UNTIL I REACH OVER 60 MPH. At 60+ it starts bucking until i get below 45-50, then I can get back up to speed but no faster than 60. If I let off it real fast while bucking, it stalls.
Fuel PSI issue? The injection PSI isnt affected. Pulse width, normal.
I commute... [At 60 mph lately...] Sounds like I have a loose injector wire under the valve cover.
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My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
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I have a 2005 f250 5.4 auto trans and the past few days the truck has been stalling randomly while driving and some times not restarting right away. Now today it stalled a few times. once while driving, once when i sitting in it trying to load up obd2 scanner. I got it home and it started running rough for 2 mins then it would stall out. It did that 3 or 4 times and now it stalled while sitting in drive way and wont start at all. it wont crank. no fuel pump noise any more.
The odometer goes out and just has a bunch of flat lines. I can not get scanner to connect anymore. it never had any codes before when it was stalling. When I could get scanner to work it had 42psi of fuel pressure. battery and starter are good. all the fuses are good and I can hear the pcm relay clicking when I turn the key and swapping relays does nothing. I can hear a very rapid clicking noise from the throttle body area. What that could be? is the pcm fried? what would cause it to fry? how can i test pcm? if get used pcm does dealer have to program it?
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Some time ago, stalling situation I had with my V-10 engine in my motorhome.
I received several good suggestions but none of them seemed to work. I took the motorhome to the Ford Dealer and they could not come up with an answer.
As a last resort, I decided to change out the Computer and asked the dealer to order one for me. Ford no longer makes this computer. So, they had to order a re-built. While waiting for the re-built, it occurred to me that I have a Banks exhaust system in the motorhome and I called Banks to see if there was something I should do regarding their system. They simply told me to remove their chip and replace it in the new Computer. Then bring it into their offices to have it flash programed. I relayed this information to the Ford mechanic and he removed the chip. The motorhome ran fine on the original computer with no stalling what-so-ever.
Unfortunately, Ford had already ordered a re-built computer so I was committed to having it installed. I decided to keep the original as a back up. I made an appointment with Banks to have the new computer flash programed to their chip. While I was there, the Banks mechanic told me that it is a common for the chip connections to become dirty and cause stalling. He cleaned the connections and put it back in the motorhome.
I wish, Banks had told me this is a common problem when I first called them. The chip is on the outside top of the computer and is easily removed and installed. Takes about five minutes to clean the connections and re-install.
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I bought my son a 07 F250. 5.4L and he tells me it is dying on him, it started out with it trying to die when going into reverse, now he can't keep it running much at all. He took it to the Firestone shop and they are telling him one of the camshafts is probably bad... I highly doubt it. And a new 3k motor is what he needs...
The truck has 145k on it and has been well maintained and just had the oil and fluids changed. Air filter is good, battery is new as well. Only thing I can think of is to clean the throttle body and air meter, he lives 200 miles away so it is hard to troubleshoot over the phone. Any pointers to look at? possible vacuum leak somewhere?
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Here's what I have 2000 F350 XLT 105000 miles and a 4R100 tranny, was coming home from work no issues, stopped at my mailbox to retrieve mail.
when applying brake, it lunged forward a bit and stalled, I started back up put in drive, stalled again. started back up put in reverse, no issues.
I put in neutral revved it somewhat and it moved forward enough to start the roll down the small slope at my drive, I then started in neutral again as was rolling and then put into drive and drove 1/2 mile down my lane to house. backed up in my parking spot, no problems then shifted to drive and stalled.
Today I dropped the pan and checked the filter as I have read that sometimes they will fall out and cause same symptoms, filter was where it was supposed to be, no easy cure here.
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