Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Speedometer Goes Back And Forth Full Scale?
Jan 25, 2016
Buddy has '96 Dump Truck. I think it is an F650 but there a no markings. It is small as dump trucks go, but has air brakes and an automatic transmission.
The speedometer goes back and forth full scale as if a speedometer cable were bad. Problem with that is, my buddy says it has an electronic speedometer.
About the only thing I can think of that would cause that problem is the Vehicle Speed Sensor.
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I have a 2002 F-350 with a 7.3 powerstroke. Last week, I replaced both my batteries. When I tried to start the truck, the electronics when a bit crazy. Speedometer and Tachometer swinging back and forth. Then when it did start it ran rough and after a minute it shut off. All electrical functions are completely dead. I finally unhooked the batteries and went in the house to cool off. When I came back, rehooked up the batteries, it started right up and everything acted normal. Everything was normal until last night, it started fine and was idling for about 5 minutes and it shut off. Absolutely, NO electrical power, even tried to jump start and still no electrical activity. Unhooked the batteries waited about 15 minutes, hooked them back up. It started just fine.
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I just bought a 99 f250 sd 5.4. The speedometer doesn't start working until it reaches about 30 mph. The transmission doesn't shift correctly until the speedometer starts working. I cleaned the speed sensor on the rear end but that didn't work. I don't see any sensors or switches on the tranny other than the neutral safety switch. What it is?
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On my '99 F250 PSD 4x4 the speedometer climbs very smoothly (normal) until I hit 54mph and then it just stops going up. Reviewing other posts I have changed the DSS (differential speed/ABS sensor) and the VSS (tranny speed sensor). Disconnected both batteries for several hours to see if it would clear.
Doesn't bounce, peg, go to 0, just won't go past 54mph. No power loss. Tach continues to climb and speed continues to increase. No strange symptoms except this 54mph thing. It is completely repeatable. All fuses under the dash and hood check out ok.
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I've got a 99 F-250 7.3 with the 6 speed manual. My speedometer is accurate to within 1 mph or so. However when compared to a GPS unit, my odometer is off by about 50%...meaning it registers approximately 1 mile for every 2 traveled.
I was under the impression the mechanism that results in the speed being displayed is the same one driving the odometer and therefore if one was off, the other would be (conversely, if the speedo is accurate, so would be the ODO). How do I resolve this issue?
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I bought a 1999 Superduty 7.3 6 speed and went out to drive it yesterday and noticed my speedometer stops working at 40mph. I saw many posts about this but no fixes. Bad cluster or vss? No abs light on dash. Still runs and shifts good. Only one yellow airbag light illuminated on dash...
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So last week I installed a 6" lift and once we got it done I could barley turn right at all. So I decided to put a drop pitman arm on yesterday with a buddy, thinking that was the issue. But I still have the problem, and I very badly need to fix it and don't know what it is. Turning left is completely fine however. It feels like I'm trying to steer an 18 wheeler right now.
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For a 99 F250 7.3 with 6 speed manual..my odometer goes around but the speedometer does not work at any speed. A mechanic said he thinks the problem is in the gauge cluster but I would like to know where to start troubleshooting.
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my speedo doesn't work but, all the other gages do. I just replaced the front hubs, abs sensors, ball joints etc... I put a new sensor in the rear end this morning and still nothing isthere a fuse tied to this somewhere? am I missing something? it's a 5.4l with a 4r100
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1999 superduty 7.3 standard ... As I said speedometer fail with abs lite on. When ambient ten above 85F, speedo works abs lite out and cruse control works.
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2000 v10 f350 single tank...fuel gauge is stuck on full. I'm on the road so I don't have my drawings so I tried some quick troubleshooting. If I remember right 160k or so is full and 20k ohms is empty...so I unplugged the sender from the harness which should be open and the gauge should read empty. With key on its reading full. I then followed the harness and unplugged it near the brake booster...key on it reads full. Just wanted to make sure I'm not doing anything wrong before I rip the dash apart.
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I have a 2005 F350 6.0 with 4 wheel drive.
Late last winter, the 4WD stopped working. I diagnosed it to be a vacuum problem. Like a moron, I purchased a vacuum pump and threw it in there, I just figured that it was bad. It turns out the new pump I bought was bad, but the old pump was fine... Go figure. At any rate, when I switch to 4WD, my HVAC goes to full defrost and the 4WD does not engage.
I think I've narrowed the problem down to the 4WD actuator, since if I hook the vacuum pump output directly to the hubs, the 4WD works fine. If I switch it into 4WD, I can hear the vacuum releasing in the actuator, but it doesn't seem like any vacuum actually gets routed to the hubs. It just opens to atmosphere.
I've noticed that after switching to 4WD, the actuator only "Releases" the vacuum for a few seconds, and then seems to close itself. Is this normal? If I cycle the 4WD selector from 2WD to 4WD repeatedly, it will continue to cycle.
1. Is there any way to service this valve, or should I replace it?
2. Is the valve acting normally?
3. Am I on track with this repair?
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I have a 2000 ford F 250 with V-10 engine with fuel gauge stuck. The problem started in the winter a couple years back on a cold night when I fueled the truck with it running. The fuel gauge never went down. I assume this would indicate a stuck float? I dropped the tank and noticed a loose yellow wire. I can't see that the wire was attached anywhere though? A V-10 is not the engine to be guessing with on fuel...
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I have searched everywhere, but I can't find the information I need for anything newer than 2007. I have the instrument cluster removed, and I can't figure out how to get to the bulb. In previous years, it just twisted out, but this one is different.
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1999 f-250 7.3 diesel. Speedometer doesn't work and neither does the odometer, the ABS light stays on and once you start driving the OD light starts flashing and the truck starts shifting weird. I've changed the rear ABS/VSS sensor on the diff and the OSS on top of the transmission at the tail end. Still no luck.....
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This has just started this past weekend out of no where.I went to accelerate up a hill and when it got to around 2500 rpms it just starts acting like a rev limiter kicks in.When i let off throttle it smooths out and runs fine, seems anytime its past quarter throttle it doesnt not want to move anywhere.If you drive normal in city conditions or on a nice flat round with barely any throttle it runs fine.I replaced the fuel filter no change, removed air filter no difference.Its actually at the shop now and they say its a transmission problem, my opinion i disagree fluid is up, no burning smell, and shifts fine under normal (slow) driving. 2001 Super duty 5.4 triton....
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I have a 2012 f250 6.2L gas that the check engine light, low fuel light and the fuel gauge says it's empty. The truck has a full tank of gas. I am in camp for another 2 weeks and my girlfriend is driving the truck. I am thinking a blown fuse or disconnect the battery to reset the computer could solve it. Hoping it's something I can instruct her to do on her own over the phone.
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So I just got an 01 f250, 5.4. Really loving this truck so far. Noticed as I was driving my gas gauge is stuck at full. One time it randomly dropped down to about half tank where I think it should be, but it jumped back up to full. Anything to suggest trying? I tried nailing a speed bump to knock the float loose at 30 and I'm not sure if it worked. Gauge goes to E when I shut the truck off, but as soon as I turn it on it jumps up to full. Should I try hitting the tank with a mallet?
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I have an 03 f350 4x4 cc long bed and I seem to be having a problem with my fuel gauge. It doesn't show the true amount of what's in the tank and because of that I have run out of fuel a few times.
sometimes when I'm driving the light will come on and the gauge will drop all the way to empty then a little later it will go to almost full even with only putting 10 gals in the tank.
Any fix for this or do I need to replace the sending unit?
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6.7 Boost ... Under full acceleration does the turbo go to 40 PSI or stay in the middle at 20?
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Had to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
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