Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Speedo Dial Change From KM/H To MPH
Mar 7, 2015
Bought a truck that has the speedometer face that reads KMH on the top in the big numbers and MPH in little numbers. Ideally, is there an decal or plate I can affix in front of the KMH plate that will reverse those so that MPH is the more prominent? Or, worst case, where can I get a new plate for the instrument cluster. It's a 2012 F-350 XLT gas.
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I have a abs light on, no speedo until 30mph, cruise works, overhead display went dim and the overdrive light flashes while moving until the speedo kicks in. I pulled the abs sensor rabs only and ohmed out at 2.7 cleaned and reinstalled with no change in the problem I also disconnected the battery's and reconnected. What should the sensor ohm out to? What can I check next? I drive the truck daily.
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Have a 2003 5.4 F-250 ext cab 4x4. The speedo went crazy of a couple days, now it is pegged when off at 100mph. When I drive down the road it goes down to like 70mph. I replace the speed sensor on the rear axle with no success. Also the airbag light came home on the way to work today. Not sure if that's connected or not.
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Got issues with speedo bouncing back and forth after going over 80 km an hour that and under is steady changed speed sensor replaced speedo with another had read about sensors brands not working with speedo unit had put Napa brand in so wondering if it's just the sensor...
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2006 F-350 6.0. I have an intermittent problem with my Speedo reading zero while I'm doing 70mph on the fwy. since the speedo won't work the truck goes into limp mode, the turbo will not function at optimum level. I have replaced the diff. sensor, the trans sensor, the a.b.s.sensors, the instrument cluster to a reman cluster. Then when I had a local mechanic plug a laptop diagnostic program on it as he was running through the system inadvertently the radio cut out, so I found that who ever installed the after market stereo they cut a few wires to the harness, I went to the junk yard found the harness end and replaced the end. so with all that said and done no one knows what is causing this speedo not to work and limp mode. about 4 years ago the oil pump stopped working and ruined the turbo so the whole front end of that glorious 6.0 was rebuilt the problem started about a year after that.
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We got a ton of snow dumped on us today and for some reason my 4WD has decided not to work this year. I have a 2000 F250 4WD Triton V10. The hubs click into the lock position and the dial on the dash lights up 4x4 but I am definitively not engaging into 4WD. I'm pissed because this is specifically the reason i bought a 4WD and it's failing me. I can't find a fuse panel diagram to save my life however all the fuses in the interior of truck look to be fine.
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2008 f250 abs light, check brakes fault, speedo don't work! I was hauling a car the other day and all of a sudden all these lights and faults came on then my speedo quit working and also the odo don't calculate mileage. I changed the speed sensor at the top of the rear end and still nothing. Cruise control also don't work..
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Circumstances required me to make an emergency trip to Phoenix this week. On the way down, I first got the "Oil change soon" warning, followed by the "Oil change required" message a few hundred miles later.
I religiously keep my truck serviced on time, and have never had either of these warnings come up before. My truck had 2700 miles on it since last service was done when this first warning came up. My truck gets very little idle time, so it's not sitting idling for hours a day.
My question is, is this oil change message a result of an actual oil monitoring sensor that measures oil quality on-the-fly, or is it strictly based on a miles or odometer timer that gets reset when dealer changes the oil?
At this point I'm wondering if the kid that serviced my truck either forgot to reset a timer, or worse, just "pencil whipped" my oil change. I have to call my home dealer back, since the service manager wasn't in yet when I called.
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I just bought a 2014 6.7 and the dealer claims every 10k. What is your alls opinion for optimum performance and engine life?
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home.
All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles.
Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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I change my own oil. I've done it at 2K, and 5K. Odometer just hit 5500 (Had it almost a year, Man I gotta get out and drive it some more!). Now when I start it up the "engine oil change soon" message appears. I can hit reset on the steering wheel, and it goes off, but the next time I start up, it's back. How can I let the truck know that the oils been changed already?
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03 F250 250k+ miles has a sputter when lugging, instead of down shifting just lug it for a sec and feels like a bad coil pack missing or water in gas miss but smooths out as soon as rpm's are up.
How long can you go on a set of factory injectors?
A friend gave me a set of pink injectors from his mustang but I have orange ones in the truck. Just wondering if the swap is possible and what effects it would have. A chart I pulled up showed that the orange ones are #19 and the pink ones are #22.
Still getting around 13 mpg but losing power, wondered if they are worn and putting in to much fuel, or just not giving the proper mist.
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My truck: 2004 F250 SD 5.4L 191k auto lifted 3" 315/75/16 tires 3.73 rear. When I got the truck with 149k it got between 12.5-13.5 in town and 15.5-16.5 long hwy trips. Also the truck could get up and go no problems. Would easily go up hills without kicking down gears and shooting up in the rpms. Been pulling a 32ft trailer last two years and was getting between 6-8.5 mpg pulling it. The Truck is now slow to move up hill even when not towing, kicks down a lot and is getting horrible mileage. I could get 370 miles on a tank before, now I get 226 miles to a tank. Getting around 8.7-9.5 mpg in town and 10.8 hwy.
Two months ago I blew two plugs and had that repaired. (Gas mileage was falling before that happened and didn't change after it got fixed.)
Recently changed fuel filter, plugs, air filter and oil. Visually inspected MAF and I can't see any build up on it. Looks really clean.
So here is my questions... What else can I do to fix the gas issue. I am thinking about going down to a 285 or 295 series tire, but don't want the truck to look goofy with small tires on. 3" lift. So what else? Did someone say maybe the cat was starting to clog, but wouldn't that throw codes? Would a true cold air intake improve the performance?
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Should brake fluid be changed periodically? If so, how often?
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I just changed my batteries in my truck. Twas the originals still in it. Afterwards, everything works except the radio. I tried everything and no radio. The clock is there when I press the On/Off/Volume. When I press the phone, the display says "no phone". But otherwise I get nothing. I can't even get in the menu to set the clock. I checked the fuses related to the Amp, Subwoofer, radio, Satellite, etc. I did not see anything in the fused under the hood that could be related.
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I have an 11 F350 6.7. It has just under 200K miles on it. Yesterday I changed the oil. Very uneventful. Today however, I was driving home, about 100 miles, and my truck's temp spiked. Not like a little spike, but jumped to the 3/4 mark(if there was one) then slowly kept rising to to the overheat mark. I pulled off onto the hard shoulder waited an hour or so to let it cool down, then finished the drive home. All the way home my temp gauge seemed like it was on some sort of drug. It would jump a needle width when I would have to accelerate, then slowly cool to normal after I got up to cruising speed.
When I got home I checked the oil level and it was spot on in the "normal" range. I haven't used a different type/brand/weight of oil in the last 100k miles. Did something just give out on my truck? I had the coolant flushed and replaced at the dealer within the last 10k miles. Up until this point this truck has been exceedingly reliable. I pull a 13k 5th wheel once a month and drive about 40k-ish miles a year.
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Got a 2015 6.2. No where near time to change plugs, with alot accessories i have installed it would suck if the cab has to come off. Can the plugs be changed with the cab on?
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I have a 2014 f 350 super cab xlt. Ford design engineers should be ashamed. But really who has installed the older (2009 ish) ford seat in there trucks for a little more comfort? How much fabrication was needed? Hate to say it but if I cant put the older truck seats in I'm going to buy GMC. These seats really suck.
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2008 f250 auto
is the trans filter change possible?
i didnt see this in the tech folder and no videos for a 2008
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2003 f250 6" lift on 35s. How to lift the suspension to change out spring bushings? Was thinking using two chain falls on tow hooks on the front, any easier, safe, cheaper way. I have a farm jack but need to weld a plate on bottom of it for more support...
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Just picked up new 2014 F350 lariat today and I can't figure out how to change the keypad code. I enter the factory code and hit add, but when I enter a new 5 digit code it wont let me hit enter.
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