Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Soft / Low And Short Grumble From Rear End When Leaving A Stop With Load
Jun 29, 2015
1999 F350 7.3TD auto 4x4 crew 8'. I've noticed that I get a soft, low, short grumble from the rear end when leaving a stop with a load.
My son just used the truck and says he thinks the rear is binding while in reverse while backing into a parking space, wheels turned.
What are the potential problems here? I've heard a fluid change with "anti-slip additive" could be the answer. Which anti slip additive should I use?
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While in Tow/Haul with my 5th wheel when slowing down probably at 5 or 10 mph the last downshift is very hard and the brake pedal gets real soft until full stop. Afterwards the brake pedal is firm. Tow/Haul without the trailer is fine. It's an '06 F250 Supercrew 4x4.
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My F250 6.4, 3.73 Crew Cab Short bed vibrates when accelerating from a stop with my 5th wheel on. The 5th wheel weighs 12K. It is a medium to high frequency vibration that is felt throughout the entire truck. It continues through the shift into 2nd (TorqueShift Tranny). The harder you accelerate the more you feel it.
It does not occur if truck is unloaded and you accelerate at full throttle. Is this normal or should I get it looked at?
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I'm assuming I might have a coil going but I'm not sure. Yesterday morning and this morning I started my truck and it was fine, I backed out the driveway again truck was fine. I put it into D and pull forward it was fine till I hit about 1300rpm, then it felt trike the truck was stumbling, I went a little faster to 1500/1600rpm and it stopped, as soon as I slowed up and then hit the go pedal it started again at around 1300rpm and stayed till 1600rpm and then it went away. So this is twice now two days in a row this has happened the exact way and only in the morning and goes away with no problems. I hooked up my SCT X3 and there are no codes and when it stumbles I have no lights come up. What I should do?
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I have a new to me 1999 f550 w/ 7.3 and I have installed an aluminum service body with a crane on the passenger side bins. The crane itself weights about 650lbs plus the steel frame it is mounted on (superstructure in the aluminum service body). I'm concerned about the uneven load on the rear suspension. It does sag slightly to the passenger side - guessing 1" - I will measure tomorrow.
1) Should I be concerned?
2) What can I do to correct it? (without just adding weight to counter balance it).
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So a few week back I noticed my brakes were getting soft. Soft meaning that when braking for any distance, I would hear a kind of "pressure release, squeaking" sound coming from the pedal, and the pedal would sometimes go to the floor and the ABS would kick in. Let me tell ya, its a pretty crappy feeling when your brakes aren't doing what their supposed to! So, I replaced the pads all the way around, replaced the master cylinder (bench primed). I took it out for a drive, and it did the same thing. So thinking maybe the fluid is bad, I flushed new fluid through the lines. Took it for a drive, and it felt good right away, the pedal firmed up a bit, and then it did did it again.
Just so I give as much info as possible, the rotors are looking pretty rough and going to be replaced soon.
So, my question[s] are; What is the next step in identifying the problem? Is there a chance the new master cylinder is bad? Could worn rotors cause the caliper to max out and not apply enough pressure? Even though the calipers seemed fine while replacing the pads, could one or more be bad? If so, how do I know?
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I just purchased a new 2015 F250 SC 8ft bed 4X4 2 weeks ago. I am experiencing a vibration on soft acceleration (I feel it through the floor), by that I mean when there is power going through the driveway, not coasting. I plan on making an appointment with the dealer. New F250 SC LB 4x4 truck.
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Last week the ABS light comes on and will go off after a short drive. Obviously the Scanguage II does not read the code. I have replaced both front hubs last year and have less than 6k miles on them. I have checked the connections, and are good. I changed diff fluids around the same time as the hubs.
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I have a 2005 f350 6.0, my left rear stop signal is not working. I have changed the relay. I only get 5-6 volts at the plug and green-orange wire all the way to the engine bay. Not sure what the problem is????
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My right rear supercab door will not stop squeaking/chattering when driving or idle at a stoplight.. I know this is a common problem for these trucks but how do I fix or dr it up?
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I have a f350 2000 4x4 automatic 170.000 miles. Service light on and OD light flashing. I have code p1747 "EPC solenoid short circuit"
This code make that the engine runs slow without power and hard shifting. I change all the solenoid body and check all wiring.
Later using a voltmeter i separate EPC solenoid wiring and see that have 5 volt. If I don't accelerate more 2000rpm OD light is not flashing and truck works normal but slow.
When I accelerate more than 2000rpm OD light begin to flash and transmission fail more. I check that EPC wires mark about 0 volts when OD light is flashing. Transmission hydraulic system seems to be ok because oil is very red and clean. Maybe another sensor is making this failure....
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I am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
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When on my 2-post lift my front brake lines on my '11 4x4 are pulled TIGHT, like stupid tight. It's also dumb that the soft line points UP 'cause it gets tugged down to a brutally tight 180.
I've got the front lift pads under the control arms, too, but near the very rear of the control arms so the axle isn't even dropped out all the way I don't think.
There's a bracket down near the bottom of the coil springs that could just be sectioned/lengthened, which I think would alleviate my issue. I'll be working on this soon.
What manufacturer builds a vehicle that yanks on the brake lines under full suspension droop? Shouldn't this be on an engineer's final checklist before the vehicle is released? Oh wait, they gave that task to Team TTB and Engineering Group TFI Or maybe they gave it to the same Audi team that designed the Allroad with airbags that can be damaged if you don't "lock" them out before lifting the vehicle......
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I installed an aluminum flatbed on m 2004 F250 5.4 and when I was wiring the lights, I accidentally shorted the marker/running lights to ground. The fuse is not blown (17), the dash lights come on. I have checked for power to the other lamps and there is nothing. I am looking for any information that would lead where to look for the cause.
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While pullin in my 7.3 with a 4r100 from a passing hail storm, i shut her down and crawled under it just to check things out. While under there I heard a noise that sounded like something was shorting out figured out the location of the noise, but what the electrical connector is for?
passenger side next to exhaust
After further analysis the noise only happens after truck has been placed in drive gear and then to park gear and finally shut down/turn engine off... Makes noise for around 30 seconds and is not a constant short noise like something is jumping around....
More pics about the problem that is hard to get too and explain where it is...
Just behind the tranny line....
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My current truck is an early 99 F250, 7.3L diesel, CC 4x4(manual shift transaxle) auto transmission. It is basically stock, with the exception of a hutch/harpoon and a new fuel pump over the winter, an AIS intake. I have a magnaflow exhaust kit in the garage along with bellowed up pipes but have not installed them yet.
Here is my issue. Several times over the last 2 years, the truck will pull a load, or long trip, and with complete randomness, the engine will feel like it has shut off, there is usually a jerk or two, and the truck "restarts" itself and continues on like nothing happened. Last year we drove 1.5 hrs from home with the boat in tow, driving up Snoqualmie pass, and it died completely, no restart. We had to be towed home. It started right up at the shop, so no real clue of what happened.
When this happened, I had the fuel system checked for pressure and replaced the engine fuel filter, and all was good. I also had the Cam position sensor replaced/updated to the new grey sensor. Shortly after, I had the minor jerk/stall occur again, so I replaced the fuel pump and did the hutch/harpoon mod to ensure there wasn't an intermittent fuel pressure loss and that the in tank filters were not clogged.
Last weekend, i pulled my boat to Oregon, and the same "hiccup" happened as I was about 1.5 hrs into my trip. it was fine after that the rest of the 4 hr trip. We also drove back the same route and had no problems.
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50 V10... How to tell if the grumbling sound when under a load is the posi plates? If so, how to replace them.
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I have a 2008 powerstroke. Dpf and egr have been fully deleted. SCT tuner seems great and have had no issues since installed 6 months ago. I recently hooked up to my camper and headed up a mountain pass. As soon as I started uphill the engine overheated. I allowed it to cool and tried again with the same result. Eventually had to unhook and have another 6.4 (this one being a 2010) pull the trailer the rest of the way. Haven't had any heating issues since unhooking.
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Windshield wipers, and washer were suddenly not working the other day, so I discovered a blown fuse. Put a new one in, and it immediately blew again. So there is definitely something grounding out, and I am suspecting the wiper motor itself because so far I have not been able to find any wires shorting out, but before I go to the trouble of pulling the motor out and testing it, or replacing it.
Truck is a 2002 F350CC 7.3 TD. Wipers were working fine the other day before I pressure washed it, which is why I really suspect the wiper motor itself.
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I have a 99 f250 that seems like it has a bad coil, under a load it starts surging or bumping ( like it has in the past and I found a bad coil), I went through and unplugged each coil one by one while idling, couldn't find a bad one, so I bought a new coil and went through and rotated the coils, nothing worked, no check engine lights on.
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I have begun to notice a vibration when I am in first gear starting out with a bit of a load. The vibration goes away as I gain speed and the load reduces. None at any of the higher gears. If I take off real easy and allow the truck to gain speed without pushing it, the vibration does not exist. The truck is the one outlined in my signature. It is equipped with a 3 speed auto with overdrive. I am thinking this could be a U-Joint that might be starting to go out.
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