Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Slow Cranking - Bad FICM Can Cause Intermittent Battery Light?
May 19, 2014
2006 F250, 6.0, AT, 59K. Week and a half ago, started cranking slow. I charged the batteries and checked with a professional load tester. Both batteries good, but voltage was fluctuating and tester said charging system needs service (no battery light). I swapped in a remand alternator as a new was not available that day. It lasted 6 days and this time the battery light was intermittent.
I checked voltage and again it was fluctuating. I swapped in another remand unit and 3 days later, same thing, intermittent battery light and fluctuating voltage. I'm installing a new, not remand unit tomorrow. However, could a bad FICM cause this problem? I noticed that the engine seems louder (not the exhaust note) at idle. This truck is clean and I have no corrosion issues. What is the right direction to test the FICM?
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I have an 08 f350 lariat with the 6.8 with 66000 miles. A month ago took it to the dealer with a plugged catilityc converter. All covered under warranty. Got the truck back, starts great when cold including 18 degrees the other morning. I drive 7 miles to work, shut it off and restart, it acts as if the starter is struggling to turn the engine over. Once it cools off, starts fine again. I took it back to dealer, they replaced the starter. No change. Took it back again, they replace battery. Cranks a little faster, but you can tell it's still struggling. It always starts, I'm just wondering how it will be when it's 80 out and in pulling my 9000lb camper....
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I bought a 2005 F350 in January of 2012. At the time of purchase, I noticed that the truck seemed slow to turn over. I talked the dealer into installing 2 new 750 CCA Ford batteries at the time of sale.
I have put less than 7,000 miles on the truck since the day I bought it. In August of 2012, I went to start the truck and the batteries were completely dead. I charged them, started the truck, and the next day the truck was dead again.
I took the batteries out, and took them to the dealer. They replaced both of them under warranty. They said that after they charged them, each tested at less than 85 CCA.
In July of 2013, the same thing happened. I used the truck one day, and then the next day the batteries were completely dead. I had them tested at the dealer, and the passenger side battery failed the test. The driver's side passed. They replaced the passenger side under warranty, again. This time, they also cleaned all battery / ground connections and tested the charging system. Everything passed.
Last week, I went to start the truck. Same thing again. Took the truck to the dealer, and both batteries, after charging, failed the test. They replaced both batteries under warranty.This time, on each battery, the dealer had written with yellow paint pen on the batteries AND on the radiator shroud "BATTERY NOT UNDER WARRANTY."
I asked the dealer about this, and they said that since they have replaced 5 batteries in the truck, and since it has 152,000 miles on it, the warranty is no longer valid. I argued that since they have checked the truck thoroughly, and found no issues with the charging system, they can't void the warranty like that.
So, what is the reason why the batteries would fail like that, and that frequently?
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Having problems with a slow drain on batteries? My truck wouldn't start after sitting for 5 days.
After recharging and starting it up once, I pulled the key, and disconnected the battery harness and checked for current on all the red wires in the harness. Only one drew current. I found the small red wire on the drivers side initially draws 470mA for 1 minute, then draws 22mA. In my experience in mobile audio, 22mA can drain a battery over several days.
Has anyone out there checked their 'dark current' draw? I have chased it all over and checked all the aftermarket add-ons and it comes down to something in the factory dash.
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I have a 05 f250 6.0 that currently will not start and no smoke. Replaced batteries and tested ficm. At initial injector buzz voltage drops to 18.8 then jumps back to 48.8 and drops again to 18.8 while cranking. My question is if the voltage is this low does the pcb still just need a resolder or are there components that will need to be replaced?
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I threw a code on my truck for a P0611 FICM. I checked it out and I had 48 Volts DC with key in the on position and 47.8 Volts DC with the truck running. I know that if it is fried, the second reading should be below 45 VDC.
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Truck would have a miss that went away when warmed up past 180. Ficm voltage was low so I got a new one from diesel tech ron. After I installed it The truck would crank for maybe 5-6 turns then lock up and kick the starter out. The starter broke away from the motor from the kickback. I got a new starter in and set up my scangauge 2. In the few turns of the motor i can do before it kicks out, ficm is at 48.5 koeo and cranking, ipr at 14.4, and the icp shoots up to 1100. The ficm sync wont come on and I m stumped what to do next. Dont want to start throwing new sensors at it. 2004 f250 6.0 ...
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I looked around for ABS issues but did not find anything to my question .. Mine started last summer running along interstate light just popped one I had just run over some paper and stuff tossed out by a diver food bags and stuff so I figured maybe some trash go into the area under wheel sensor I stopped a bit later for fuel and lite did nit come back on at start up.. Did not come on again for several weeks I scanned the system said faulty sensor circuit .
My son in Law has a mech. at his dealership to look it over he plopped a new sensor in it .. Light came back on again a day or so later I think there is a bad connection at some point .. I took the one at the wheel and the one right at the fender well liner a my scanner said it was right or passenger side front both times I scanned it .
My question is, how many more connections there is its almost impossible for my crippled up to crawl and climb all over and under the thing to clean the connectors and add some dielectric grease. 05 S/D 6.0 turbo....
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After finding that a battery was low and not getting charge, they found the alternator was bad. Replaced that. Next the battery that was low was able to be charged and did not effect the other battery. Both batteries have been load and charge tested and they both read 84% charged. I am told this is "good."
Next I swapped both fuel filters and did the oil change as well. I finally got a chance to get my friend to run his scanner on it. The results are injectors and FICM. The codes are PO261, 264, 267, 270, 273, 276, 279, 282, and finally 611. I guess this means that the FICM is toast.
I have tried salvage and no one has anything. I guess I still don't understand how this truck is capable of running daily with the computer throwing every code dealing with the injectors and the computer that runs them.
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My 2014 F-250 is having a repeat problem with an intermittent cell engine light. About 10000 miles ago it happened, and they changed out the egr cooler. Saying it was gummed up with soot. Problem just started up again. Light will stay on for about 3 or 4 restarts then sir off on its own. It's this a known issue with the 6.7? Is there a way to prevent it?
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I've got a '03 F250 7.3L 4x4 (not sure how much info you need) with many many miles. My battery light came on a couple of months ago. Replaced a battery. Light went out for a day. Checked and replaced the alternator. Light went out for a couple days. Cleaned the battery terminals for better connection. The battery light is off when I first start the truck, but depending on what I've got turned on, lights, radio, AC, the battery light comes on with in 15 to 30 miles down the road. I had the batteries and the alternator rechecked yesterday and everything seems to be charged and charging.
- Should I replace the wiring to the alternator?
- Are there any fuses I should be looking at or for?
- The alternator is a rebuilt one from Autozone, should I get a new one?
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Battery light came on today, I figured were in need of replacement so I got new ones. Light is still on, until I reach about 1800 rpm. It goes out until truck idles down. Can an alternator do this? I always thought when they went, they went.
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I have a 2000 F350 7.3 4x4. It began giving intermittent tow/haul flashing light, when going up or down hill but would clear and drive next time truck was cycled off/on. No ABS lights and code reader generated P0720 for the output speed sensor, now I can get it to generate just driving slowly fwd and rev a few times. All of this has been in the last few days.
Truck will stall if I take it up a slight incline with the fault. I replaced the sensor on the top front of the 4r100 transmission and also replaced the sensor on the rear differential after giving up on looking for an output sensor on the transmission. I know the 2WD transmissions have an output sensor but is there one on the 4WD version? I have read several past threads discussing the P0720. I am hoping to confirm what sensor I need to be looking at and where it is located in this application.
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The battery light is on when running. The light is dim at idle. Light is bright when driving with rpm's. The battery voltage is 12.8 per my older volt gauge. Alternator out put is 14 volts at idle and with rpm (2,000) +. I had the Alternator checked at AutoZone in there parking lot. Meter hooked up. The alternator passed all test.
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The manual just says it's a charging system problem.
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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2005 F-350 6L diesel .... Put new batteries in it a week ago.
Been running good then the radio quit a couple of times. It came back on after truck was restarted. This morning I go to town and the battery light comes on. I stopped and started about 5 times and on the 6th it wouldn't start.
I got a boost and started home it , started to try and quit when I was almost home. Was so dead the power windows wouldn't even work. Have it on the battery charger now and it starts right up but the battery light is still on and the ABS light is on.
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I have an 06 F350 with the 6.0 powerstroke. My battery light started coming on and will go out for a while, then come back on. Sometimes it flickers a little. I have checked/cleaned battery terminals (there was no corrosion). I have replaced the alternator. The batteries are just over a year old (10/12). I have not had any slow starting or any other symptoms other than the warning light. I am still having the same problems after replacing the alternator. I have checked with a voltage tester and it was reading 19+ when the light was off. When the warning light is on it was jumping from 12 - 15. This is an old tester so I'm not sure that it is working correctly. (not sure why I am getting the 19+). I'm going to go buy a new tester, but I was wondering if there is something else that could be causing the warning light. I know very little when it comes to electrical issues.
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OK I have 14.04 volts at the batteries with the engine running but my battery light is on. I had the alternator checked off the engine and on the engine and it tests good. Shows good batteries and good charging. Is there something internal to the alternator that would make the light come on even though the alternator is charging ok? Or is there something else that would make the light come on. This is on a 1999 F250 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3.
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I started to notice my battery light comes on during a hard acceleration. So I have been keeping track of it. When the rpm's hit 3200 and above the light comes on bright but never at any other time. I put a volt meter on it and I have 13.4 volts at an idle, as the engine revs up the voltage climes to 13.9 then when it hits the 3200 mark voltage drops right off to 12.4. It seems like a regulator issue to me. The parts store says my 5.4 has an external regulator is that so or is it built right into the alternator?
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Long story short: I bought my 2003 F-250 super duty 6.0 used back in January. It had one Ford OEM battery and one Walmart special. I had them tested and they were both completely flat. Replaced the set of batteries the next day. Since then, upon cranking the truck, the battery indicator will be illuminated while the truck is running. It will stay on for a length of time that varies based on the day. It will eventually turn off after driving a while, but will come back on if I kill the truck and crank it again (like when running to a store).
The batteries have been tested 4 times and test just fine. No problems with the batteries. The OBD 2 computer/monitor I have installed reads a voltage of around 13 when the truck is running. What to do to solve this problem. It isn't a major issue as the truck always cranks fine and the batteries are not damaged or anything, it is more of a annoying thing. It bugs the crap out of me.
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