Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Slight Rough Idle After Couple Of Minutes When Start The Truck
Dec 5, 2014
I have a 99 F350 with a V10. I just replaced all the spark plugs and a bad coil which solved the very bad misfire I had going on. I also just changed the fuel pump and fuel filter.
When I start the truck, it idles just fine, nice and smooth. After sitting there for a short bit, maybe a couple minutes, it starts to idle rough, not so rough that it's about to shut off, just a little rough. This lasts maybe a minute and then goes back to nice and smooth and stays that way.
I've thought maybe the EGR valve or Idle air control valve but I'm not sure if I'm way off or sort of close.
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I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
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I've got a 2006 f250 with 160,000 miles, trans was rebuilt by previous owner about 10,000 miles ago. The tow/haul light started blinking yesterday, only blinks for first couple of minutes of driving and then stops. Service engine light popped on today as well. Won't have access to a code reader until tomorrow, but looking for some preliminary info...
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I have a 2004 SD with 5.4 that is running pretty rough both at idle and driving. Truck shakes a lot at lower rpms. I have a scan tool and had a misfire on cylinder 4 so I replaced the coil and the plug. Also replaced the idle air control valve. Plan on replacing O2 B1 S2. (One of my codes) even after replacing the coil and plug I'm still getting misfire detected from cylinder 4??? Other codes I had were misfire detected on he first 1000 revolutions. That hasn't come back though.
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I have a 2002 F350 with a V10, this just started happening where at times the truck will turn over but won't run... after a few times of trying to start it I pull the key out let it sit for 5 seconds then put the key back in and runs perfect..... now at the gas station the other day it started but ran like it was on 4 cylinders... I turned it off and restarted it and runs perfect. Heading to Kansas next week to pick up my boat and don't need problems....
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I have a 2011 F250 with the 6.2 gas engine. I have been having a problem that the dealership says there is nothing they can do and have never heard about.
After the truck sits all night I get in and drive it for 10-15 min. It gets warm and I get out turning it off. When I come back about 15-45 min later I start it up and go to leave. As I pull out and start to accelerate in first gear the truck goes to an idle for about 2-3 seconds. I push the gas pedal and get no response. After a couple of seconds it picks up wherever you have the gas pedal. If you have the pedal to the floor it jumps you forward. This is not putting on any lights and the computer is not throwing any codes. According to the dealership the computer is telling them there is nothing wrong.
This has happened 12 times in the past 6 months. It has happened since I bought the truck. I have just started documenting it as of 6 months ago. It is not something I can make it do on command. After it happens once it doesn't seem to do it again for a week or two. I have 31000 miles on the truck. The dealership has had it for 4 days now and can't seem to get it to happen for them.
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Need this software that would be willing to run a diagnostic on my truck? I replaced all the glow plugs a year ago and the relay a month ago. It idles really rough when it's cold (first start of the day with outside temps even at 90 degrees). It has no power for about 10 minutes. Sounds like an old John Deere 2 cylinder tractor for a few minutes. I have 370K miles on it. After it warms up it runs good. Plugging it in doesn't make a difference. There is no smoke while it is warming up. I have noticed when I accelerate quickly, it blows black smoke (not heavy but when following it you see and smell it).
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So a few months ago I would occasionally hear what appeared to be a slight squealing noise from a pulley when I started my truck. It was very intermittent, so I didn't think much of it.
After a few weeks, I realized I was only hearing it on colder mornings - it would also go away rather quickly. I bought a mechanic's stethoscope, and figured I'd get to it on a slow day.
Today, I finally broke out the scope and tried to figure out the source. Didn't really find any pulleys making noise, and I did notice that when I shut the truck off, it squeaks for a second or two as it comes to a complete stop.
My dream of finding a bad pulley or perhaps a power steering pump was crushed. I had hoped to do a little Easter wrenching and put this noise to rest. So, I did what any good mechanic would do - I Googled the issue.
I'm reading that it could be the belt. Certainly wouldn't bother me too much as that is an easy fix. The belt isn't too old - about 4 years and 20 - 30K on it.
I took a few pics of the belt and can take a video of start/stop ....
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I recently bought an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat crew cab FX4. It has an EGR delete, ARP studs, and the updated oil cooler. It has 138,xxx on the clock.
Randomly, only when it is at normal operating temperature it will have a slight shake to it at idle. when i try to take off from this shaky idle it feels like it is "missing" i guess you could say. it clears up about 1/8 a mile down the road every time. And i will go ahead and say this does not happen everytime it idles. Only maybe once or twice in a 30 minute trip.
What might be going on? I have not added a coolant filter yet, and it does not have synthetic oil in yet either (just bought it) I plan to use full synthetic Rotella 5w40 very soon. I think this might be a stiction problem? but i read it is uncommon to have stiction when warmed up. I do not have anything yet to pull codes or read the FICM yet. both batteries are good.
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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Have been having issues with my truck starting for the last few months. Happens cold or hot. When I try to crank all I hear is a buzz and the starter trying to insert, but it doesn't. Just a tap. Has been happening the last few months here and there. Have always started after 1-2 minutes of trying. Yesterday went for a 60 mile drive and car didn't start after I parked. Tried for a good hour and decided to leave it and it fix the next day. In the morning, the trunk started on the first crank.
Drove home and parked. Tried to restart and nothing. Went to work and came back at night and nothing. I was just going to take out starter and have it tested and replace if needed. Also, will replace the starter solenoid. Have replace both of these the last 2 years with parts from Napa Auto Parts. Have a lifetime warranty for starter. How often do these parts need to be replaced? What my issues are or what else should I replace for preventative maintenance?
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I've been having an intermittent stall-out problem with my 2003 F250 5.4L (160k miles). The truck has been retired from DD to farm duty, hauling, and towing only. Over the past 9 months, the truck has stalled-out on me 3x while driving. I will be driving along sometimes at highway speed, sometime slower, and everything will die: no PS, lights go on all over the dashboard. It will not restart right away. I have to wait at least 20-30min to restart it and then everything is fine for several weeks and hundreds of miles.
There are no codes and I have been unable for reproduce it/cause it to happen purposely. My mechanic has changed the Crankshaft Position Sensor, and checked the fuel rail pressures. I also checked all the harnesses and fuses, cleaned the battery terminals, looked for vacuum leaks, and gave it a good look-over. The following are new: battery, IAC valve, fuel filter. After searching the forum I also pulled the fuse box and examined the integral fuel pump relay: it and the board looked perfect, no bulges, cracks, discoloration, etc.
My mechanic thinks this is more likely an ignition problem than a fuel delivery problem.
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On a 2000 F-350 with 5.4 engine, where does the vacuum line enter the cab? I got a truck in with no vacuum signal to the heat controls, and it has a slight miss at idle. Both of these are signs of a vacuum leak, but i can not find the line going into the cab.
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My F53 motorhome has a rough idle and hard misfire but is not setting any codes. I've put new plugs in it and not change.
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I have a 2000 F250, SuperCab, 5.4 triton, 100,000 miles. It's been a great truck - got it at 63,000 miles. Once engine warms up, it has rough idle, and shift rough. I can give it gas to RPMs up and it smooths out some but is low on power. If this was my 76 F150, I would guess the vacuum hose off the intake manifold to the transmission came loose.
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I've got a 2003 6.0 that's got a rough idle and low power situation. Doesn't matter hot or cold it has a hard start issue but when it finally starts it has a rough idle, sometimes it has low power on take off but not always. FICM has 48.8 volts coming out, exhaust just had a new y-pipe (had a cracked bellow) absolutely no smoke coming out. When I drive it hard it's like a rocket no rough spots just did oil with filters and fuel filters, blue spring upgrade, and cleaned out the turbo.
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V-10 running rough at idle, chugging. a problem has developed with my 2004 E-350 V- 10 after having a new fuel filter installed and the induction service done . Picked it up from a local shop and it was running rough after bringing it in when running great! I figured maybe it fouled a plug or something so I drove it home but it didn't improve so I brought it back and had new plugs installed. It is still running rough and wanting to almost stall when accelerating from a stop and the shop cant figure it out , not showing any codes.
I'm thinking maybe they caused some type of vacuum leak that is so far undetected. The killer is it came to the shop running great !!
No other problems with the vehicle, I drive it every day and have owned since new. 278,000 on it now and it has been the best vehicle I have ever owned.
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I recently purchased a 1999 6.8L. Runs great when cold but after warming up the idle gets rough. Truck has new plugs and coil packs and fuel filter. Checked the fuel pressure and the idle is right at 30 psi. I read that the good pressure range is 30 to 45 psi. Is 30 psi acceptable or should I replace fuel pump or regulator? Any next step to solving my idle woes.
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Last night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
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I am new to the v10 I only ever owned 7.3 this is my father truck it's a 99 with 200k on it. The problem is it will idle fine when cold but when it is warned up very ruff idle no codes and when I go back at the end of this week I will check the O2 sensor with AE but I really don't know much about it.
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We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
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