Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Slight Hitch In The Engine Cranking - Alternator Seems Dead
May 8, 2013
Went to run errands today, and noticed a slight hitch in the engine cranking... I'm on a brand new battery that isn't even a year old, so it seemed a bit odd. After running the first errand, the hitch in the cranking got a lot bigger and I noticed the voltmeter was reading lower than normal. In addition, lights, HVAC motor, radio, and even brake lights would move the needle. To me this says my alternator isn't working...at all.
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So I was going to get the truck washed, but 2 blocks down the road smoke out of the engine bay.
Pulled over popped the hood and the alternator is on fire. Extinguished it self out but the burnt electrical smell.....sheesh..
Anyways, could I potentially drive the truck to the dealer, or will it catch on fire again????
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I putting a bit newer engine in my truck. from what I know there have been few changes in the middle of 1999. Do I need to replace the computers too or are they the same. what about the wiring harness.
My truck : 1999 (11/1998 production date) 7.3, zf6 trans, 1 alternator, 315k
Donor truck : 2001 7.3, zf6, dual alternator, 110k
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The truck is in my Sig 01 F250 5.4
Just got back from a long trip with it. Parked it for 3 days, all was running fine. Went to dinner Sat night and all was great, left the restaurant and as soon as I started the engine I noticed a slight vibration. As soon as I hit 42 miles per hour, it started shaking pretty good. I pulled over and checked under the truck to make sure I did not have anything I was not supposed to hanging down.
Driveshaft looked good, nothing leaking from rear end or tranny. When it does vibrate, the Tach shows the unhappiness as well. This a.m. driving to work it was vibrating at all speeds and shifting was very rough, had a hard time deciding if it wanted to be in second or third gear. I don't think this is drive train issue... When it shutters and sputters at 40ish MPH, its almost like it loses power and I have to let off the gas. and then under power it shakes badly.
I had the super chip settings for performance tow when this started and then I changed it back to stock settings, thinking it might work, which it only got worse. Changing the settings with the Superchip you have to disable the fuel system and I do this by pulling the fuel pump fuse under the hood in the power distro box.
I think the ujoints are still good, the oil and tranny fluid are spot on. Hubs are locked but in 2WD. Had all the front end replaced 15K miles ago. Brand new tires and wheels in Sept, front end alignment done at same time, front brakes were 90% and rear brakes at 20%.
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Recently purchased a CPO 2009 F250SD 6.4L. Happy with the truck overall but this AM I noticed a slight burning plastic smell so I opened the hood and looked around closely. Didn't really find the culprit(I don't think) but noticed that the engine compartment heat shield/barrier appears to be falling down above and behind the turbos (pictures linked below). How big a deal is this? Would it be covered under the CPO warranty? It almost seems like a safety issue. I also wonder if the insulation material, now exposed without the metal reflector material, is what is causing the smell....
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I have a 1999 F250 Super Duty 5.4L, 118,000miles...engine seems to idle somewhat rough but tach doesn't seem to move off 1000rpm & when giving slight acceleration seems to act like its missing, shaking . But under acceleration moderate or high purrs like a kitten! Always starts good , few cranks. Any hints on the what issue might be?
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Got my 240 amp alternator in and had all new 1/0 GA battery cables with a 250amp fuse in line made to do all new lines. I started tonight and found a small line going from the alt connector down the power line to a fuseible link (fuse) all in the power line
I wanna do away with the main 4 ga alt wire but obviously I can't do anything with that line going to the plug. Can I put a connector on it and wire that into the one side of the 250amp fuse.
The only other option is to add a wire to beef up the stock line ....
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The V10 in my service truck took the long slow ride. I located and am in the middle of replacing said engine. My question is, how difficult would it be to install a second alternator in this truck, considering I have it torn down for replacement?
It a 2000 F350 with a V10. I'm looking for more power as I have mounted on the Knaphiede service body a IMT 1015 crane, 3200 lb capacity. I would like to install a power inverter to be able to run an air compressor in the field.
Am I looking for a new harness? Etc?
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I have had this whining noise that I'm not sure what it is. It sounds like its comin from the alternator area. There are three symptoms that are confusing me though, 1st is I only hear this whine as the weather starts getting colder and the colder it is the louder it is. 2nd is it only happens around 1800rpms like when it's getting ready to shift to the next gear. I can get it to whine when I'm parked and bringing the rpms up. 3rd is after 10-15 minutes when the truck is warmed up - no more whine. The truck is used very little duing the summer and I had this whine all winter last year. Alternator appears to be working fine and I do plow a few driveways every storm. Money is tight so I don't want to replace the Alternator an find it wasn't the problem.
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Bought 02 350 DRW, started hard first day, now not cranking. Seen a post on neutral transmission switch and mine is not lining up, but need to adjust the rod out of transmission also? I was able to match lines on switch but with flanges on fitting it will move back out of place when moving it to fit in bolts.
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I have a 2003 6.0 Auto that has an intermittent non cranking issue. Once it does crank it fires right up. Usually when it doesn't crank, I just keep trying the ignition until finally something connects and it will begin to crank and then start. Sometimes I can try it twice, other times I may sit there for 5 minutes fighting with it. My only issue is, I need to get this problem fixed before it becomes a bigger issue.
I don't think it is the ignition itself. When I am attempting to crank I can see the window switch lights and other things going off when I crank it which I though was normal when the starter is operating.
My first thought is the transmission range sensor which I am trying to locate. I looked on the transmission itself which seemed to make sense but I wasn't seeing anything familiar. Someone hinted it might be under the dash above the brake pedal but I am not seeing anything jumping out at me.
I also question the starter itself, but I hear no noise coming from it at all when the problem shows itself. No clunk or anything. Which makes me think something is causing the circuit to not function properly.
The other thought I had is a possibility in the wiring somewhere. Maybe a bad ground on one of the batteries? I have a brand new factory positive aux cable so I think I can scratch that off the list. The batteries are also charged as well, but cannot rule out the possibility that maybe one is bad since I did not install them. But I can make sure they are both charged, and the issue remains. Where I should check?
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My trouble is that the alternator light on my 2004 F-250 Diesel began to come on occasionally, but never constant. Taking in the fact that it was still the original alternator, and over 70,000 miles, I figured it was time for a new one. I installed the new one and after two days the light came on again. I tested the alternator and it read 13.84 volts while running. With the engine shut off, I had 12.59, and 12.6 volts at the batteries. What may be my problem? Diesel down.
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I put an O'reileys alternator in my truck today. Drove it most the day and did some plowing with it and it was fine. I just went out to run to the gas station and now the battery light is on. The voltage is still good.
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I am really hoping that my instrument cluster in not working because my alternator went out at the same time. I really hope they are connected somehow. I really need a wiring diagram for this one. Just got the truck last week and have been taking care of the little things to get it fixed up and make it my own. my new rear step bumper came in today. I will be dropping off the the alternator for a rebuild tomorrow. So looking for a wiring diagram?
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OK I have 14.04 volts at the batteries with the engine running but my battery light is on. I had the alternator checked off the engine and on the engine and it tests good. Shows good batteries and good charging. Is there something internal to the alternator that would make the light come on even though the alternator is charging ok? Or is there something else that would make the light come on. This is on a 1999 F250 Superduty Powerstroke 7.3.
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I have a 2000 excursion that stopped charging. The battery light is on . I replaced the alternator but it still will not charge. I have checked all the fuses. Not sure where to go from here...
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2002 f350 super cab 7.3 diesel, replaced alternator because wasn't getting charge to batts, Napa guy checked batts and determined no charge, replaced alt, still no charge, have 12v at alt post with engine running or not. My ? is, is there a fuse in here somewhere that I'm missing? Went through all fuses in fuse panel all good.
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I have a 1999 f-350 V-10. My battery light came on, making me believe that my alt. has quit. I can't see the plaque on the alt so I can't tell the amps. Does my serial number on the truck tell the amps, or do i have to remove the alt to check the amps?
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My 06 f350 power stroke has a viper 2way remote starter.
When I try to start it when the truck is cold it doesn't crank long enough for it to start the truck. It will try 3 times when I hit the start button and normally won't go. It almost starts most times but stops cranking right before it starts. This is driving me nuts.
I just tried 3 times to start the truck and it in ally went on the 8th time trying to crank.
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I'm in a real jam because my work truck won't start. 1999 F250 7.3 Diesel 157k mi. - Air and fuel filters were replaced in the last 500 miles. This pup ran fine when I parked it last Wednesday before the holiday.
Checked for start last night because I'd been having battery issues, Both were replaced the previous week. It's cranking good but just won't start, not even a bit. No wait to start light, oil level is good, can not get obd reader to link.
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My 2003 F-250 (gas V8) will always start right up when it is cold. However, once it has warmed up, it often will not start. Cranks fine, but not even wanting to start (like someone pulled all the plug wires) and has left me stranded until I wait for 3+ hours for it to cool back down. Doesn't trip the check engine light, but seems to be due to the engine being hot. What this could be?
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