Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Slave Cylinder Leaking / Truck Will Grind A Little Into 3rd And 5th
Oct 25, 2013
I got a 99 f250 v10 5 speed manual. my slave cylinder was leaking so me and a buddy replaced it. the pedal felt kinda funny at first but shifted fine. Fast forward 2 months, I moved out west and my truck will grind a little into 3rd 5th and you damn near need to be at a stop to down shift into 2nd.
If I drive like grandpa and shift slow it usually is fine but but might still grind. I am wondering if its a syncro or if we did not correctly "bleed the new clutch slave. Tempted to take it to ford and see what they say.
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Driving home from work the truck suddenly would not shift, it felt like the clutch was not completely disengaging. The only way I could get it home was to start it in gear but the truck was obviously lunging, did that once and limped it home in 2nd down back roads.
Master was clearly leaking inside the truck but not a lot. Slave was dry as a bone, put all new hydraulics in it, it feels like I have more on the pedal but still the same problem. Thoughts? Do I have to pump it a thousand times to bleed it, it's one of those pre bled systems.
This happened to me once before a couple weeks ago and then it just magically went away after messing with it for a minute. I'm thinking maybe my fingers on the clutch are gone or throw out bearing quit but I've had no chatter, slipping or whining. I can shift through the gears with it off or running if my t case is in neutral.
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I have power steering fluid leaking out of the bottom of the Brake master cylinder out of a round hole. Every time I pushed brakes it leaks a good amount of power steering fluid out. Why it would do this and is there a screw missing out of the hole or what?
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I replaced a rear rusted brake line a couple of years ago. It rusted where the line met the bracket. I'd never done this before but bought a flare (flaring?) tool and fixed it.
This week the longer line that runs down the length of the truck started leaking. It looks like the line was once held in place by a small bracket just in front of the rear wheel but it wasn't in that bracket anymore. I guess it rubbed against the metal and water/sand rusted it out.
A local garage said they'd need to drop the fuel tank and estimated that it would be several hours (and hundreds of dollars) to do the job. It looks like I might be able to cut the old one out and then fish the new line up through there and replace it.
Also, what is the diameter of the line? It is a 2004 F350. I can certainly cut it out first and then take a piece of it to the local auto parts place to get the replacement line.
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I have a 99 f250 sd truck that came as a auto and I am changing it to manual. I bought a slave cylinder unit setup and got it put in and as I was installing rod from pedal to slave I must of broke plastic fingers that hold rod. So is them fingers replaceable or must I buy another unit? with no foot on pedal it sticks up close to bottom of dash now. I tried pushing clutch all the way to floor and still rises too high. What can I do????
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My T18 tranny in my 85 F150 will not shift, first instinct was clutch but after tearing the drivetrain out of the truck to check the clutch, there is virtually no wear on it. Slave cylinder is leaking a little bit but the mechanic that took a quick look at it said it was still working. She was shifting fine when i left for school, then when i got off the highway i couldn't shift.
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While on the way back from the deer lease last week my '99 f250 sd 4x4 5.4l started a grind sound that would come and go randomly. Lasts about 1 second. Seems not to change the way it drives. The dealer had it for 2 days and couldn't find anything. This happens at freeway speeds 55-70 mph.
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I have a new 2016 F250, few months old, loving life. I noticed a weird noise/feeling when I am making turns while going over a bumps. There is a left hand turn on my way home that I take every day at approx 15 mph. There is a dip in the road and I can feel a weird grind kinda feeling through the gas pedal and a noise from the front right suspension. Being a brand new truck, I'm not sure what the deal is, or if I'm just overly critical.
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I have a 2001 f350 4x4 with7.3 diesel...I have recently noticed a low grind like noise coming from the right front. I have troubled shot the issue and I am 100% sure it is the wheel hub assembly. Did I mention I am running 37x13.50 tires..and now you say no it is the hubs...and they are the original hubs. My question is every thing I look for shows ABS is on my truck... I look at the hub and don't see it.. so with the Dana 60 front does it have ABS or not? Also, should I go motorcraft, Timken or moog wheel hubs?
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When changing gears my accent grinds as if its not engaging properly? I checked my slave cylinder and the rubber was filled with silver looking fluid could me replacing the S/C fix the issue? I don't think its synchro issue i tried double clutching and still no difference. the grind sounds the exact same as it does when you accidentally release your clutch when changing gears and it hasn't engaged properly. I also changed my manual gear box oil.
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Was bleeding my brakes and clutch. Using a power bleeder and it seems as though I put a little too much pressure into the system. The Slave cylinder's green rubber boot filled with brake fluid and began leaking a little. Did I blow a seal? Is this normal with pressure like that? I feel like pushing the clutch in would give more pressure than my little hand pump gives...
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I have no compression on #4 cylinder. Is there any way to check the cylinder for damage. So I can just replace that piston if it's good?
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I am not positive where it could be but I have a good bit of oil on the transmission (i think) i was trying to replace the strarter and noticed it. Where the possible leak could be from? No oil on the ground under the truck.
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How to get the spark plug out of cylinder #4. I have the kit to take out the base of the plug out of the head if it breaks off. But I can't get the plug out. I think the plug broke off but not the electrode. So the electrode is caught up in the porcelain tip of the plug. It's pretty tight back there with the a/c lines and fuel rail and other stuff. I tried needle nose but they just don't grip it right, to get enough force to pull it. These are the plugs with the extended tips.
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I have a 2002 F250 5.4 L with an intermittent Misfire. A little history on the truck in 2011 I replaced the motor with a Ford long block motor, only the block, I used my electronics, intake, etc, this was brand new from Ford. The truck has a total of over 300K miles. Recently it has developed an intermittent misfire. I have changed all the coils and plugs and the misfire is still present. The codes are showing a misfire in cylinder 3 but could be 4 too. The misfire is intermittent because this morning I changed the plugs and truck ran fine, drove to store and it started missing, turned truck off and started up and ran fine again. It has been doing this off and on for a few weeks.
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I'm new to the 6.0 fords but have bought 1 its already been bullet proofed. I've put all 8 injectors in because cylinder 3 was bad. this is my issue now you can start the truck fires right up run for 30sec to 1 min and shuts of like you turn the key off starts right back with no issues and runs fine the rest of the time until you shut it off again and there are no codes. What it could be ? I have already replaced the ipr, icp, cam and crank sensors, egr o rings and the blue spring upgrade and still does it...
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I have a 2001 F 350 with a V10 it keeps coming back as a misfire on cylinder 3 and 4.. I replaced all of the coils and plugs and pigtails I have even swapped out the coil packs from side to side and I still keep coming back with the same code. The truck has a bad check around 1500 RPM with a load on the motor mainly doesn't in overdrive and first starting off...
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my 03 f250 has a 5.4 and i cant seem to get rid of a misfire in cylinder 3. i had a p0353 code but that no longer shows up. i replaced all the coils with Accel coils, replaced the plugs with motorcraft platinum. i have checked the wire all the way back to the PCM and it checks out. i replaced the pcm with one that has been reprogrammed. i have swapped the injector and coil with another position and still get misfire at #3. Replaced the coil connector with a new one. I have good fuel pressure. I no longer get the code but the misfire is still there, unplug the coil and injector while running and no change. Unplug a different cylinder and you can tell the change. I checked compression and its good. I am lost here!!!!
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I bought this 2004 V10 Ford truck new.. It was at that time top of the line Ranch King with all the bells and whistles.. I have been trying for some time to figure out the miss I have. I was told yesterday that.. Misfire 2nd cylinder passenger side no compression.. They said I need to have a new Engine installed.. They would look for a rebuilt and would cost with installation around 5 grand.. I then took it to another garage and was told that's not it, but will check it out later in the week.. What I should look for.. No one seems to b able to figure it out.. I cannot afford a new truck at this time and 5 grand for this one to fix is not a reality..
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I'm might be needing a gear box rebuilt or maybe buy one already rebuilt.
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The rear differential is leaking on my 2000 f350, i am going to replace the gasket. When I take the cover off will all the gears pop out or are they held in? Also how much differential fluid does it take?
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