Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Shimmy At 45 And Up
May 29, 2014
Can't figure it out, I have a shimmy at 45 and up, but not all the time. I have had the whole front end apart for other reason, but the wobble is still there not as often though. Here is what I have done so far.
Left wheel bearing had play in it, replaced that, while that was off checked all ball joints no play at all, remove axle shaft replaced all seals on it inspected u joint in excellent shape. removed right hub because it will not hold vacuum removed axle on right replaced all seals and inspected joint it was fine, ball joints fine also. EOSF now works as designed
Found left front caliper seized replaced and retested ok
Cleaned inspected and relubed auto locking hubs.
Checked all the steering components they are tight except sway bar links make noise over bumps taking care of that this week. Most of the time the truck runs smooth as silk no wander in steering or nothing but then I will just shimmy out of nowhere. I was thinking of taking the front drive shaft off to check those u joints but didn't think that would cause this.
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My 1999 F250 has a pretty good shimmy at around 65 to 75 but only when going down hill. It seems to intensify on the steeper grades. I am thinking possibly not enough caster and when going down hill the geometry changes enough to start the shimmy. It will subside as soon as it levels out. Up hill or level it drives fine and is smooth and steers well. It has the solid front 4wd axle....
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I drove my pickup on mostly dry pavement the other day with it in 4WD and the hubs locked. I got a bit of shimmy/vibration which quit after about a mile. When I got back on ice, the 4WD wasn't working. I assumed the transfer case or locking hubs had failed. Today I got it up on jack stands, put it in 4WD, and locked the hubs. Everything seems fine. What might have happened when I couldn't get 4WD to function.
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07 f250 has a shimmy from the rear at highway speed. Has new tires is worse with a load. What am I missing here?
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2007 F250 SD Crew Cab Long Bed 4X4 with 6.0. Bulletproofed, leveling springs, 5k firestone airbags, upgraded brakes, new front driveshaft and new universals and carrier bearing on rear u joint.
The issue: When accelerating from a stop or a slow rolling start, turning right or left, I get a shimmy (vibration) that seems to be coming from under my feet. Not a violent shimmy, but enough to make me certain that something is loose or out of alignment in the drivetrain. IT IS NOT THE REAR END as friends have constantly told me. Rear end was serviced and cluth packs lubricated with no change in issue.
What I've done: Changed transfer case fluid, new front driveshaft, new u joints and carrier bearing on rear driveshaft. There has been no improvement after these repairs, if anything the vibration is a little worse and easier to induce.
I've been chasing this problem for over a year. Going to be pulling a Toy Hauler out west this falls and really need to repair this for my piece of mind..
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One of the super coils busted while driving my 2002 F250 Super Duty. I drove it for less than 100 ft. before parking it. It made a rapid "check,check,check,check" sound, which I'm assuming was mainly the coil smacking against other parts while loose. It busted near the point where it screws into the motor. I felt like I lost some compression as it drove sluggishly once broken, although I only drove for a very short time. I also thought I may have smelt a slight burning scent, or maybe oil, but didn't smell anything once I got out of my truck. Any problems I should look forward to other than simply replacing this coil?
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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I have a 2016 F250 6.2 XLT CC 4X4 that is mostly stock, except I did put on 18x9 wheels and LT275/70/18 Cooper ST MAXX tires. I have noticed recently on hwy driving and even in town driving, that the passenger seat rattles/vibrates quite loudly. Obviously if there is someone setting in the seat, it is just fine.
Is this a common issue? Is there a quick fix (tightening a couple bolts or replacing a couple clips?) Or should I take this back to the dealer for warranty?
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New floor mats. My truck is going to be 10yr old and has the original King Ranch floor mats. I want some heavy duty rubber ones that will fit around my manual transfer case lever. I ordered the Weathertech digital fit liners and I am not happy with them so they are headed back tomorrow. They have a heavy duty all weather mat but not sure how it will work with my shift lever on the floor. Husky liners/mats look nice and heavy duty but won't accommodate the floor lever.
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Is there a steering stabilizer for a 92 Ford F-250 custom 2wd? and what's the difference between a f250 custom and a f250 heavy duty?
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I'm thinking of doing a dash swap on my 99 super duty to the 2008 super duty dash, steering wheel, etc. I know the od in my truck is mechanical and in the new one its electronical is it possible to swap without having to redue the whole electrical system and computer? Is the steering wheel going to line up and the ducting? How should i approach the wiring?
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I took out the PCM and there seemed to be no chip in it. But after I put the PCM back in, I think it reset it. Because the truck does not blow any black smoke, nor does it burn rubber when flooring it at a stop. But still seems just as zippy. But I'd like to know if there is a chip in the truck. Where would I go about searching for one. I've looked at everything and it all seems to be stock.
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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What kind of m.p.g. are you getting on this new diesel engine? I'm getting avg. of 14.5 driving half city and half highway at 65 m.p.h. and easy acceleration.
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like many of yous who own a 5.4 super duty and live where it gets cold during the winter knows that you usually loose a few MPG during the winter. Well its been in the mid 50's here in NJ for two weeks and I'm still only getting about 7.5 to 8 MPG! Now Ive read other post this winter so i know this is somewhat normal but come on! enough is enough even after two weeks of 50plus degree weather I'm still only getting 7-8 MPG? Even my brothers bone stock 05 F150 with the 5.4 is still getting 13mpg around town......
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I finally found my 7.3 dually with 6 sp and have got rid of my 6.0! But I have a problem in that I don't have any key fobs or chip keys that came with it. It is an XLT and the window sticker shows it came with them. Not sure just exactly what I need to do, program a fob or buy a key or what??? What are the right direction or tell me the steps I need to take?
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I just bought a 2008 f350 4wd with a 5.4... Check engine light is on. abs light also comes on sometimes. Since I plan on keeping this truck for awhile I have decided to buy a code scanner. Do they read the abs codes as well?
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Picked up my 2001 5.4 from the salvage yard last night and today, while pulling the exhaust manifolds, discovered the salvage engine has an egr tube from the driver manifold but the one in my truck does not. I plan to take EVERYTHING off of my engine and swap it to the new but I was just wondering if the lower end and heads are the same as what I have now? Any other surprises I might encounter and what did the 5.4 with the egr come in? Supposedly this was an F150.
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Have 2015, F350 with the navigation setup. Now gps map is three years old. Won't have truck manuals for couple more days. How, where, & how much to get newest info on memory card? Or, is it better to get a 5-7" Garmin with lifetime maps etc.
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So, I get in my truck yesterday and my ABS light is on. I ran the codes and there are none???? Not sure where to start.
2004 F350 V10 DRW 4x4 XL.....
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99 f250 passenger window went down but will not go up. neither switch will make it go up. I was wonder if both switch could have went bad? Any way to test a switch?
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