Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Shake Inside The Cab When Traveling Between 70 - 75 MPH
Feb 14, 2017
I have a 2012 F-250 crew cab 4x4 XL, 6.7L. I recently added a set of factory 20" wheels from a 2017 F-250 Lariat and put a set of new Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, 295/60/20, on the wheels. Since adding the new wheels tires, I've had a shake inside the cab when traveling between 70-75mph that we can't seem to pinpoint. It certainly feels like a balance issue, but we've road forced every wheel/tire and even had Nitto replace one tire that had a road force reading outside of the "normal" guidelines. Thought for sure that one tire was the issue, but installed last night and still the same issue. The shake is felt mostly in the front and rear seats. The passenger front seat shakes fairly vigorously. We've re-balanced all 4 wheels and tires, I've had the front end re-aligned, twice. I never had any issue with the factory wheels (which were the ford factory steel wheels 17"), even after adding larger tires. I can't imagine it's the new lighter aluminum wheels since people put on lighter after market wheels every day.
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I have a 2010 F250 extend cab 4x4. While traveling about 70 down the freeway I get a whistling noise. It is usually worse when the wind is blowing hard or behind a semi. Wind makes the noise louder so I assume the noise is coming from the air hitting something. Slow down to 50 and noise goes away. Do not think it is mechanical because when a gust hits the truck it is worse. Checked all the windows, windshield and rubber parts. Where I should look.
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On my 2006 4X4, I noticed a low pitched revolving dull scraping sound when I was traveling slowly. It was more noticeable on a hard left turn. The sound increased in speed as I drove faster and slower when I backed off. My brake pads are fine with 6 month old rotors. I suspect either a bad hub bearing or U-joint on it's way out. I have approx 114k on the clock and attach an 8ft plow for my driveway alone. What's the easiest way to check?
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I am getting what i think is death wobble at around 45-55 mph in my 2012 but not near as violent as others/videos have described. I do not have a lift but i do have 35x55x12 mud tires. I got an alignment but it is still happening. I have read that it is usually caster but i thought this was only in lifted trucks? I am putting a 3.5 inch lift on it to better clear my tires in a couple of weeks and it comes with a trac bar relocation bracket. Will this fix the issue? I have checked tie rods/ball joints as well and they seem ok. Will the relocation bar fix the issue? I also have dual stabilizers on it. That firm up the steering after i put the tires on but the intermittent wobble is still there. Most of my driving is between 45-55mph so it can become annoying.
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My truck is a 2000 F-350 (with front leaf springs). It has developed a significant shake in the front end. I have read much information about "Death Wobble," but I am not sure that's what my problem is. The truck shakes back and forth and the steering wheel moves what feels like several inches as well. I have already replaced the tie-rod and drag link, thinking this would solve the problem. The truck seemed better at first, but the shimmying came back.
The reason I replaced those particular parts was that I noticed the heim joints at both ends of the drag link had a lot of play in them. So, now I am trying to re-diagnose the problem. With the wheels off the ground, I cannot detect any play in either wheel when I try to move the tire by grabbing it at the top. I did notice that there is 1/4'' to 3/8'' of play in the steering box arm that connects to the drag link.
I am not sure if this is normal or not. The truck has a little less than 150,000 miles on it, so I am sure several different parts could be worn. However, after examining it quite a bit, I cannot see any obvious problems.
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Removing oem aluminum for oem Steel wheels. After going through two sets of tires, having driveshaft rebuilt for no reason, new shocks, new rotors and pads, I'm 100,000.00 percent positive one of the aluminum wheels is out of round. From 50+ MPH I start getting a shake throughout the entire truck, faster you get it gets a little worse. I can't feel it in my steering wheel though? And if I rotate tires it stays the same, my buddy is giving me a really decent set of steel wheels from his 2003 xl f250 work truck and the local powder coat shop told me 100 per Tire for sand blast primer and then my choice of powder coat. Steel will always be stronger and run truer than aluminum and winter shouldn't be a problem since I do upkeep my vehicle. OR just buy a 16x10 aluminum wheels and FINALLY do my 4" lift with 35's and sell my almost new 285 tires...
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I have a ford f250 with a 5.4l 2v engine and lately it started to shake when it idles. i have changed all the ignition coils and spark plugs, the injector are fine, but i cant seem to pinpoint the problem. the weird thing is that there are no codes. the fuel trim on bank 1 is around -8 and bank 2 is at almost positive 20 and higher.
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I have an 09 F350 (116,000 miles) that I have only owned for about 3 months. I got it pretty cheap but it did have a front end issue. Drives fine most of the time but hit a bump just wrong at highway speed and it goes into a shake and wobble that feels like you just blew a front tire. Took it into my shop, not the dealer and was told I pretty much need a front end rebuild. Kinda what I figured I would hear.
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I recently bought an 03 F-250 6.0 Lariat crew cab FX4. It has an EGR delete, ARP studs, and the updated oil cooler. It has 138,xxx on the clock.
Randomly, only when it is at normal operating temperature it will have a slight shake to it at idle. when i try to take off from this shaky idle it feels like it is "missing" i guess you could say. it clears up about 1/8 a mile down the road every time. And i will go ahead and say this does not happen everytime it idles. Only maybe once or twice in a 30 minute trip.
What might be going on? I have not added a coolant filter yet, and it does not have synthetic oil in yet either (just bought it) I plan to use full synthetic Rotella 5w40 very soon. I think this might be a stiction problem? but i read it is uncommon to have stiction when warmed up. I do not have anything yet to pull codes or read the FICM yet. both batteries are good.
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I know there are tons of threads on this and ive spent hours reading through them. but there are a few differences to mine.
2005 F350 6.0l regular cab long box. 4" lift on Duratec 33". Wheels balanced, driveshafts balanced, all u-joints checked and 1 was replaced (made no noticeable difference), all new brakes and rotors recently(due to wear)
When im not towing, vibration is noticeable between 60-65, but its only slight and i can live with it. Its felt in the seat and not the wheel.
There is also a very low grinding/pulsing feeling that happens as i am slowing down from highway speeds starting at around 10 mph until I completely stop. Its not the brakes and feels driveline to me. Can only be felt at these very low speeds while decelerating/coasting. Feel it in the seat and not the wheel. Not the end of the world but i have a feeling its related to my high speed issues. It is not felt on acceleration and I don't feel it when I am moving around parking lots/etc. ONLY when decelerating from highway speeds.
When I am towing the vibration randomly gets really bad right around 65mph the whole truck shakes and its very uncomfortable. It doesn't matter if I am on the gas or not, hill or no hill. If i slow down to 60 it goes away. It is very rhythmic with road speed (3 pulses with a slight pause)
Been doing a lot more towing lately and its bugging me. I keep falling back on tires, but not quite ready to bite the bullet on new tires as the ones on it still have tons of life left.
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I have a 2011 f250 6.2 cclb and it shakes around 70 to 75 mph. Not terribly but enough to annoy the crap out of me. Now I have put new tires on it recently, new Rancho 9900 adjustable shocks, I have it aligned regularly and tires rotated and balanced every 5000 miles or so. I have had two dealerships look at and my local shop and they can't see anything visibly wrong with it.
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I was driving my 99 f250 superduty and out of no where it sounded like i had blown a tire started to shake for at least 3 or 4 seconds pulled to the side of the road got out and check tires were good, got back on the road with no more problem.
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I have a 2004 superduty 250 4x4 with the 6.0. I am having a violent shake in the steering wheel mostly and can feel it in throttle at about 45 to 60 and at 72 there is s growel. Have changed tires, wheels checked all ball joints tie rods wheel bearings ujoints. Don't matter brakes on or off, od on or off nothing changes it. I really don't know what else to check.
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When my truck is parked, I go to the rear tire and shake it back and forth and hear a slight clunking noise from either the tire or rear end. Its like the axle is making the noise?
2000 7.3 Power Strke Super Crew 4x4
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I've noticed when I'm towing, on long down hill grades if I touch the brakes I get what feels like a rotor causing the steering wheel to shake. At first it was only mild, but today on a long 6% grade it got really bad. Never does it on a level road, I've tried to duplicate it, only on a long down hill grade, and I'm not getting a pulse in the brake pedal at all, only the shake in the steering wheel. It's probably time to replace the pads anyhow, and I'll check the rotors. What things to look at?? 2006 F350, 6.0 dually 4x4.....
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I am looking at getting my new truck, my 05 F350 6.0, with factory trailer brake controller, all set up for a gooseneck. I was wondering if there was an OEM kit to add a trailer connection plug to the inside of the bed? If there is, what are the part number(s)?
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I figured out how to go from the passenger door to in the cab, but how do you do it on the driver's side? The area is pretty "busy" around the emergency brake area.
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I have a problem on my F250 4x4. The 4x4 doesn't engage from inside. I tested for vacuum on the pipe that leads out of the solenoid. There seems to be no vacuum building on the outlet line. This is the line that go to the wheels. Is my solenoid stuffed. the pump works well and vents do not default to defrost.
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I have a 2013 F250 6.7 Crew Cab Single Wheel. Stock 20" Michelin tires and stock suspension. I have almost 20K miles on it. I just rotated the tires again and noticed that the rears are worn down on the inside. The fronts look perfect.
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once a year i remove all my seats (yes i unbolt front and rear seats and vacuum real good) and when i lifted the rear bench seat back from the rear wall i noticed THIS to some it might not seem like a big deal but to me this is a HUGE problem, i know my trucks a 2004 but whats gonna happen another ten years from now and longer down the road if i don't stop this now? Im gonna have to be buying or making a repair panel for the rear cab thats what! I plan on keeping my truck forever and buy a new truck down the road so i want this one to last, only thing i can think of is the rear sliding window rubber seal is leaking and letting the water get between the two body panels? From outside where the cab corner meets the center body panel piece none of the factory body sealer is missing or cracked so it has to be the rear slider seal?
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Is there a filter for the AC somewhere?
2001 F-350 gas
The air blows cold but it smells like something died in side it somewhere.
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