Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Self Programming The Start On Integrated Key?
Feb 10, 2017
Purchased a key from ebay like the ones pictured. Long story short, after much struggle I've gotten it programmed to manually start the truck and to lock/unlock with the buttons. I have yet to program the remote start button. The information that I've found so far says to locate the remote start system override button to begin programming it to start the truck.
I installed the Ford remote start unit myself along with the VSS (vehicle security module). I have remote start working via a cell phone app. The vehicle security appears to be working as it should. There is no override or any other buttons on the RMST unit. Only an LED indicator light. The ebay vendor's listing states that the key can be self-programmed. So far they've been unresponsive to my questions. Am I overlooking something? Is there another way besides paying my dealer again to hook it up to their IDS to program this key?
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I have an 03 F250 with the seatbelts that are integrated into the seats and they dont retract. I have tried to remove them to see if I could fix them some how but all I could do is remove the plastic cover that is just above the left shoulder of the driver seat. How to remove the entire mechanism?
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I just bought a new 2010 F150 and it came with the factory remote start with the separate key fob. Can I get one of the integrated key fobs and program it to my truck/starter? Also if that is possible where can I get one?
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I hit the trailer tow mirror on a column parking in my parking garage downtown...
The Orange Reflector on the integrated turn signal is cracked. The black housing has a little crack too, but is so minor I could just leave it.
I don't trust the parts man at the stealership...
Are the orange reflector and the black mirror housing all 1 piece? How to remove that outer housing to replace it?
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I know this has been done to death, but on my '08 F250 XL I can't seem to get the truck to enter into the programming mode to program some fobs to it. I've done the cycling business and the best I get is a flashing light on the dash of the truck with a little lock on it, but nothing else. Can you not program the XL? Is there a major step I am missing?
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We have a 2004 Ford F250 gas pick up. Went out this morning to start to let it warm up it started and ran for about 10 seconds then died. Almost sounded like a shot going off when it died. Now it is completely dead no lights, no chiming when you put the key in the ignition no nothing. I have tried to jump start it and obviously that didn't work. I also checked the fuses and didn't see anything blown.
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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Truck: 1999 Ford Truck F 350 4WD Super Duty V8-7.3L DSL Turbo VIN F
Problem: Especially when it is cold outside . . . The truck takes forever to start and while doing so a ton of white/grey smoke comes out of the exhaust.
My starting schema: Turn the key on have the gas pedal pushed to the floor until the "wait to start" light goes out. Then, I turn the key off and back on while still pressing the gas pedal all the way down. When the "wait to start" light goes out again I remove my foot from the pedal and try to start it. I never leave it cranking for more than 5-7 seconds. If, after trying this process several times I will not push the pedal in at all. Also, sometimes I will leave the pedal pushed in while I am cranking it over.
The truck used to start after a couple of tries but lately it won't start at all, even after 20 tries. Sometimes it will spin up for a second as if the engine gets going but then just doesn't continue running. When it is warm out it will usually start after a few tries but doesn't seem normal to me. After I first bought the truck(used) it would start up within half a second after turning the key.This all started after I had to fix an o-ring that was damaged on the top/back of the motor that was dumping all my oil out of the top/back of the motor.
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I don't drive the truck much anymore but over time my MPG has gone to total crap...about 10mpg around town...and that's baby-ing it.
Now it suddenly takes many cranks to finally start on a first start. (cold or warm days)....
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On my 1999 F350 SD Crew Cab, 6.8l V10, it will crank, but won't start. I have checked fuel pump fuses and relays, and all are good. I checked the "collision switch" and it is good. I pulled the fuel pump and connected it to the battery and it works, but there is no voltage at the fuel pump connector nearest the fuel pump. I have spoken to a Ford mechanic and he said that if their is voltage from the output of the collision switch, that it must be a wiring problem between the switch and the fuel pump connector, but I have but I have been unable to find a problem. Anything else to try?
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Had truck engine detailed a couple of months ago. Looked great, ran bad. Plugs were wet. Checked the codes, dried the plugs in the cyls that were missing, started running great. Don't use the truck much. I had left the code reader attached and it ran the battery down. I was away from home, so I had AAA jump it. Let it idle for an hour. Took it for a drive, it ran great. Stopped once and it cranked great, started right up.
Stopped again, but did not shut off the engine, went to take off, it bogged down, no power and stopped. Would not start again (full tank of gas), but cranked really good, and fast. It acted like it was getting just a little fuel, so I think at this point it's a fuel problem. I don't hear the fuel pump come on when I turn on the ignition. I tell the whole story because I am wondering if something under the hood could have gotten wet? I think it's all dried out, but?
My plan is to spray some starting fluid into the intake and see if it starts to confirm that it's fuel. If it is a fuel problem, what then? Is there a fuel relay? I know there is a fuse but I haven't been able to get to it yet (alarm horn bolted above it). The holidays and work of course are putting a damper on my troubleshooting. If I have to pull the tank to change the pump, how do I empty the tank? 99 F250 V10....
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I'm having a problem with starting the V10 in my 99 E350 cube van. It refuses to start when cold unless I stick my finger in the idle air control valve and force it shut, or use starting fluid, or a combination of both. Once I do get it started, it will die if I touch the throttle, but once warmed up, it runs fine. I have replaced the IAC, the cylinder head temperature sensor, the fuel filter and fuel pump, and cleaned the MAF. My code reader shows no codes, and like I say once warmed up it will run fine and restart no problem.
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I've noticed lately that sometimes when I start the truck up that the wipers will cycle once. I do not have the courtesy wipe feature enabled and I'm pretty sure I'm not bumping the wiper/washer button. I like my truck but I've had more weird things go on with this truck than any other I've ever owned, I'm starting to think it's possessed. It's a 2013 F250XL with the 6.2 ....
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I have replaced my hpop, ipr, icp, stc connector pipe, stand pipe's, and dummy plugs and ficm but i still have a hot no start. I am really getting aggravated...
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I get allot of questions on just what to check when you get the ipr off the vehicle so you know if it is bad or not. In this video I go over what to look for in depth with an example of how a failure looks.
[URL]
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I have 99 f350 single rear wheels 4x4 . I went to start it this morning and it would crank but not start b/c it was cold. I plugged it in and still wouldn't start then it wouldn't even crank. I checked all fuses swapped relays and I have new batteries. The last thing I did was hit on the starter a few times and it started. So I went and bought a new not remand a new starter and put it on and now it won't crank!? I get 12v at the little wire on the selenoid on the fender. So now what?
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I have a 2000 F250 with a V10, that won't start or turn over. I replaced the solenoid on the fender well, auto store check the starter 3 times and said it was good, new battery installed and same issue of not starting.
Here is a video of what it does when attempting to start : F250 starting issue - YouTube....
Where and what to look at?
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I have an 2007 6.0 that won't start when hot. I'm being told it is the HPOP but I've been told that year does not have a high failure rate for the HPOP. Is this true?
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My 6.0 powerstroke will not start at all. I changed the rail fuel filter and the oil and oil filter. All oem for caps and filters. But the fuel filter in the engine bay is stuck. I didn't change the filter and I don't think I put diesel on the o ring to lube it. Could this be why it's not starting. I tried using starting fluid aswell no good
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Bought 02 350 DRW, started hard first day, now not cranking. Seen a post on neutral transmission switch and mine is not lining up, but need to adjust the rod out of transmission also? I was able to match lines on switch but with flanges on fitting it will move back out of place when moving it to fit in bolts.
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today I went out to start the F-250 2003 6.0L, and since I have a head cold and i was supposed to go to some job meeting and there's this weird beeping from a smoke detector in my house I can't turn off and it's keeping me awake= I was a total dip you know what and cranked the truck without warming up the glow plugs. So now it won't start. I don't know EXACTLY if that's why, or what. The batteries are fine. There don't appear to be any wires that jiggled loose. I drove home just fine last night.
I don't want to keep cranking it, obviously. Could this be because I forgot to turn the key and warm up the glow plugs? It's not that cold out, but, I know sometimes with my VWs you really had to do it no matter what.
Given that I may have made this stupid mistake, what are my options now? I don't smell diesel when I open the hood. Should I just wait a while, or should I try to open something up, or what?
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