Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Seized Locking Hubs
Jun 1, 2015
Back in March while still plowing, my auto locking hubs wouldn't stay engaged. After talking to the local Ford service shop they told me that it was moisture in the vaccum lines and that it had frozen. They told me to manually lock the hubs and bring it in to be repaired when I had time. I made a appointment in the middle of May and finally got it in last week. Now the hubs are seized in the locked position and they will not warranty the work or parts because they say it was caused by the salt from our roads. Does this sound right?
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My hubs will not lock when put into 4x4. I disconnected all lines from the solenoid to both hubs and tested them for leaks... All good there. I put a gauge on the lines at both hubs one at a time while the other is still connected and get no reading when switched into 4x4. I checked for vacuum right out of the solenoid, and I get 2inHg when switched into 4x.
The vacuum pump kicks on every time I start the truck, even if I just shut it off and re-start right away. There is no delay when switching my ac/heater controls to different settings or vent locations. So I know there is vacuum. How much vacuum I should be getting out of the solenoid to the hubs?
2004 F350 6.0L....
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I just ordered '00 F250 SC 4x4 SWB XLT with the factory standard manual hubs. The hubs show up on the vehicle order confirmation as code "21M MAN LOCKING HUB". I can't find this code in the ordering guides anywhere but kbb.com shows this code as "Manual hubs delete. Required with 213 shift-on-the-fly". I want the manual hubs. I think ##### is incorrect. For my piece of mind, could someone who has also ordered the factory standard manual hubs verify that the code is indeed 21M. And for those who ordered shift-on-the-fly, could you verify that 21M does NOT show up on your order confirmation...
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I am considering buying a 2001 Ford F250 Super Duty XLT 4x4 V10 engine tomorrow. I am hesitant because I cant get the 4x4 to engage. It goes into 4x4 low and high and the front driveshaft spins but it wont engage the wheels. One side locking hub locks but the other side the locking hub is cracked off and so I there is no way to turn to lock that side. I will of course replace the Locking Hub ASAP if I buy the rig but my question here is, if one side is locked should one side of the front axle spin, meaning if only one side Locking Hub is locked should that wheel turn and the other not? Both are not turning but as I said the driveshaft is spinning.
I don't know if both sides need to be locked in order for the front wheels to engage while in 4x4 high or low. Or if one side should engage if only one side is locked; the wheel that's locked of course..
2001 Ford F250 XLT Super Duty 4x4
V10 engine...
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My 2009 F-350 4x4 has a front wheel option of Auto or Lock ; I think I understand the Auto option but under what circumstances would I lock the hubs and is it safe to leave them in the Lock mode when traveling on the highway?
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I drove my pickup on mostly dry pavement the other day with it in 4WD and the hubs locked. I got a bit of shimmy/vibration which quit after about a mile. When I got back on ice, the 4WD wasn't working. I assumed the transfer case or locking hubs had failed. Today I got it up on jack stands, put it in 4WD, and locked the hubs. Everything seems fine. What might have happened when I couldn't get 4WD to function.
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I took apart, cleaned and lubed my hubs. My question is: how does the vacuum make the gears work?
Does the vacuum force (suck) the nylon assembly to push the outer gear towards the center of the truck, sliding on the inner gear thus engaging the teeth so that the axle shaft turns the hub?
When the vacuum is gone, does spring pressure pushes the outer gear away from the center of the truck thus disengaging the teeth from the inner gear and allowing the hub to free wheel?
Is this vacuum source constant during 4wd and not present during 2wd or do I not understand how the system works? I have read about a “vacuum pulse” that locks the hubs and another pulse that unlocks the hubs and this confuses me.
BTW, I like the way the Auto lock works. I had a set of Warn Auto Lock hubs on my 78 CJ. They worked on the principle of a set of roller bearings that would lock (pinch) when there was torque coming from the drive shaft. There was no vacuum involved at all. The down side was that when you coasted, the front hubs would be in two wheel drive and so you would not get the engine braking on all 4 wheels. These ESOF seem to have solved this problem.
Oh, I should probably tell you that I just purchased my 04 F250 SuperDuty 4x4 with the 6.0 diesel, just had it a week. It has been 18 years since I owned a 4x4. Before this I owned an 87 F250 2wd with the 6.9 diesel.
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My F350 4x4 won't go into 4 wheel drive unless I get out and take them out of auto and put them in locked position and when I have it in lock mode it seams to work like it's in auto mode, when I put the switch on the dash in 2wd, it seams like it's only driving the back wheels....
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Today was the first time I have locked my wheel hubs in and used 4 wheel drive. However when I did all this i noticed that when I turn there is a growling sound but only when turning. It does not make the sound when unlocked and in 2 wheel drive.
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I've noticed my front axles are rotating all the time even when the hubs are in auto and supposed to be unlocked when in 2wd. Is there a rebuild kit for these so they will unlock the axles or do I need to buy new locking hubs?
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I recently purchased a 2003 F350 FX4 Dually with the 7.3L Diesel. It has locking hubs and electric shift in the cab.
I have had locking hubs before that you had to engage to shift into 4 wheel drive and I have had trucks without locking hubs.
My truck didn't come with a manual, so I am looking for instructions for the proper use of this system.
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My 2010 F350 shudders when turning right. From what I read it could be the auto locking hubs not dis-engaging or sticking in the locked position. Tutorials show it's pretty easy to pull the auto locking Hub out taking out the three screws holding it in place. My questions is what type of grease do I need to apply to the auto locking hub once I have them out and determine that is what the issue is?
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I have a 2013 F250 which has both the Manual and auto locking hub feature. I tried to plow my driveway this morning and after making one pass I put the truck in reverse and could not back up my steep driveway. The truck is showing locked in 4x4 on the dash, the 4x4 control is in high lock but the front wheels will not turn. It has been very cold here lately (-30) and I'm wondering if the vacuum lines for the auto locking hubs have frozen. I have switched the control out of 4x4 and back in several times, and it does lock in again, but as soon as I put the truck into reverse, they unlock again. The hubs are covered with ice and snow right now so I have not yet tried to manually lock them.
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hey I have a 99 v10 Super duty that won't start it acts like the engine us seized the guy I bought it from says, that it just shut off at avred light and he couldn't get bit started since then when I try to. Start the truck it acts like the engine is seized. I checked the oil and coolant both are clean and full.no signs of leaks I heard it could be the ac pump stopping the belt from moving, whats wrong with my truck?!
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I recently purchased an '08 F-350 4x4 Lariet Supercab 6.4l and was told by the 3rd party inspection that it needs rear brake pads (2mm left). Are the caliper pistons retractable without having the pistons seize down the road? HOw about the fronts? See below.
I ask as on my '06 F-250 XLT 4x2 5.4l the rear calipers seized without even doing a pad change and the fronts seized about 100 miles after a pad change. Come to find out it is a common problem with the '06 and the calipers either have to be replaced or rebuilt when changing pads. Now I've been "told" to expect the same with the '08.
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i replaced my a/c compressor on my 2006 f-250 2 yrs ago but had not refilled with r134..only the pag oil. Now i decide to refill seeing my wife uses the truck and compressor would not engage, i was able to bypass it by removing relay and jumping it with a paperclip. Compressor started up but seems to have seized on pully. the pulley seems fine and still turning freely. I can no longer turn it manually when truck is stopped and i could before i jumped it. could the clutch only be replaced or does the bearing and pulley have to be replaced
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Its a 2016 F-250, 6.2L gas truck with the electronic shift on the fly transfer case.
I have put right at 22,000 miles on it like this, frequently at 70-80 mph.
What are the odds I have damaged it and is there anything I should do now that I discovered it - other than put them both in "AUTO".
Truck has been to the dealer twice and not once was this noticed. They blamed the squealing on the brakes which I knew it wasn't.
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I've read many posts about ESOF and fault vacuum lines and how that will prevent 4x4 from engaging. I experienced a different problem this past weekend. Here's the situation...
Was about 1.5hr drive up to the mountains. Outside temp when we left the house: 10F. Outside temp when we arrived at destination: 9F. Quite a bit of road grime on the way up from sand, slush, and that magnesium chloride (or whatever they hell they put on the roads in an attempt to keep it from freezing). 4x4 worked fine on the way up. 4x4 light on dash was on, and I KNOW I could not have climbed the snow-covered forest roads without being in 4x4. Also, I could hear and feel the front hubs turning.
On the way home, once I got to where the roads were sufficiently ice free, I turned the dial on the dash back to 2WD. 4x4 light goes out. But I can hear and feel the front hubs are still turning. Toggled the switch back and forth a few times. 4x4 light would come and go with the toggled switch. But the hubs didn't disengage.
When I got back into town (outside temp now about 5), we stopped at a red light and I toggled the switch again. This time, the hubs disengaged. Is this a sign of bad vacuum? Or more an indication of faulty hubs??
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Noticed a burnt rubber smell while driving today. Stopped at a gas station and before I could get around to the other side of the truck, a guy stopped and told me there was smoke coming from the passenger rear wheel well. The truck seemed to run and drive fine. Didn't seem to be any noticeable drag, but once I got home I felt that wheel and it was a bit warmer than the others.
My parking brake pedal is all the way out and pulling on the release doesn't seem to relieve any pressure or "Pop" like it normally would if releasing the brake. We've got a good downpour of freezing rain right now and I'm not able to start pulling things apart. Anything easy I can try for now? Pretty sure it's seized by the way it's acting but I really don't use the parking brake. Auto trans and I live in a really flat area.
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I have a 01 f250 v10 4x4 ... My stock hubs squeak non stop when they are engaged. I want to get a set of warns.
I am going down to napa tomorrow, looking for a detailed link, or instructions of how to install these things? i have searched but just keep coming up with people raving about how great warn hubs are!
Do I need any special tools, do I need to grease the new ones before installing?
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I just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
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