Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Scary Clunk In Drivetrain When Take Foot Off The Accelerator
Apr 4, 2014
I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
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I have a 04 F350 srw , 6.8 . Recently developed loud whine from the rear . I had the differential (10.5 sterling ) completely rebuilt . It quieted way down . But I still had a couple of high pitched whines . Took it back and had the rebuilder ride with me . At first he couldn't hear it ( it can be faint but gets louder under a load , I pull a 40' trailer and didn't have it with me), when he finally started hearing it he said it might be a planetary making a little noise, just watch it . So I made a short run (450miles RT) . Same noises but I noticed that sometimes when I stopped and got fuel , it would quiet down for 50 or so miles . I got to thinking maybe it could be a rear wheel bearing going bad and the sound transferring through the axle to the drive line . It only did it accelerating ( before and after rebuild ) and got louder going up a hill .
Today I drove it in to town and parked it ( still the same ) and a couple of hours later after a cold front came through ( maybe 10 Deg. temp change) I got in and the noise was about 90% gone , but at 45 to 60 mph. it vibrates . Let off the gas , vibrates ,, Put it in neutral- vibrates, revved the engine in neutral - vibrates and no change from rpm diff. . As long as its rolling between 45-60 , it vibrates . Hit the brakes- vibrates.. I have had 3 mechanics check it out ( 2 good ones and one that the other 2 take what they cant figure out ). Left them all scratching their heads. Checked the driveline and I changed one U joint (prior to the short run ). All seems tight .
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Drivetrain noise I cannot diagnose. I have a 2002 F350 diesel and have noticed over the past couple thousand miles a noise from the drivetrain that is hardtop identify. It is not brake related ( new and unaffected by brake application) and not rpm related. Most noticeable at around 50mph. Not tires and they are new and noise persists.
Front end has been apart for new hubs, brakes, rotors, wheel bearings. Noise continues. It has an oscillating quality and is somewhat like a lower pitch whine which gets more prominent as speed increases. Wondering about bearings associated with drive shafts? Are there some things I can check underneath to diagnose the issue?
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What torque value is in foot pounds that Ford recommends for the 10mm bolts that attach the overload spring bumper brackets to the frame on a 2014 F250?
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2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
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2002 Ford F350 Powerstroke, 7.3L, Automatic, 4 wheel drive .... AFE Stage II Intake, 5" full exhaust, TS 6-position tuner chip, Swamps 140lb injectors
Intermittent accelerator problem: no response, just goes to idle. Runs perfectly with no other issues but zero response when the accelerator it pressed. There seems to be no pattern to the problem as this happens at any speed/position on the pedal. When the accelerator goes out the check engine light in the lower left corner comes on. All fuses are good.
Symptoms began a month or so ago feeling like an occasional 'hiccup' or hesitation. Symptoms occurred a few more times until a couple of weeks ago (Friday, 2/20/15) when it left my son stranded a few miles from home. He was able to limp it to a parking lot and we left it over night and went and towed it back to the house the next morning. The truck started and ran fine just no accelerator so we towed it idling so we would have power steering/brakes, etc. As we neared the house the engine light went out and the accelerator began working and he was able to drive the truck the remaining 1/2 mile home.
Most all of the research I did came back with the Throttle Position Sensor as the culprit. I was able to order one (the complete accelerator pedal assembly that is*) at a Napa store in a nearby town and picked it up on Tuesday (2/24). As soon as I installed it everything worked fine.
As an aside, I have read a lot about the mid-2001 switch from the units with the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) and IVS (Idle Validation Switch) as separately connected units to the 'new' style where these parts are combined into one and there is a single 5-wire connector. Being a 2002 there was no question as to which one I had. Just be aware of the difference. Also, this part is simple to change. The connector has a clip that you pinch down on with your thumb and then pull off. I use my little electric impact with 1/4" extension and a 10mm socket. Zip, zip, zip an you're done. It takes me longer to get my tools out.
A few days later on Friday (2/27) it presented the sporadic accelerator symptom a couple of times again but was able to get the truck home. The next morning I unplugged, cleaned (CRC Contact Cleaner), and dabbed into the connector a small amount of dielectric grease to insure good connection. (I had read that in my research as well). That seemed to work beautifully and he said it ran fine all day and until the next afternoon (Sunday, 3/1) when it began acting up yet again.
I continued to research and could find nothing that would suggest anything other than the Throttle Position Sensor. I read that some other folks had gone through a few of the Napa/aftermarket units though so I began thinking that maybe I had just gotten a bad unit.
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I have a 2005 F250 5.4L 2wd. Parked the vehicle in my driveway and the next morning there was no response from the accelerator and the CEL light and the wrench light on. I pulled the codes and came up with codes P2104, P2107 and P2110. The KOEO code was P2122. I checked the wiring and connectors and all appear to be fine I replaced the throttle body and no change. I removed the accelerator pedal and tried it on another vehicle and it worked fine. I have power to pin 16 on the diagnostic port. After clearing the codes and rescanning the same codes come up immediately.
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I have had this truck for several years. I have only had a few issues. I've heard of engine noise issues but I have never had any until now. My 5.4 is making a knocking sound that just started. It goes away if I tap the accelerator. It has over 200,000 miles on it. I change the oil every 3000-4000 miles. No additives and always conventional 5-20. Is this a serious issue? I've seen people talk about using thicker oil but I'm very hesitant.
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I have roughly 104k miles. The weather is trying to get colder. Lows of 45 highs of 80 right now. Last week I was accelerating on to the highway and the truck seemed to have trouble shifting. I hit the accelerator and it did not shift. It would continue to increase in speed but very slowly and would even tend to kind of sputter a little. My engine light came on and has gone off and on several times since then. This has occurred several more times and is always when I hit the highway.
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2001 PSD ... Had speedometer jump 20 km's (12mph) while stopped with foot on the brake? This has been happening on my 2001 PSD intermittently for the last couple months.
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So, I'm slowly but surely eliminating a terribly shaky front end on my 2002 F-250 7.3L 4x4. First was a new carrier joint on the front drive shaft. Didn't work much, but the shop said the darn thing was falling apart. Next thing I did was new wheel bearings and manual hubs. Less vibration for sure. But the last remaining issue, in terms of vibration, is that when I let go of the Accelerator going at any speed above 60 MPH, it makes a horrible horrible noise, and I could feel a vibration. It shakes the whole truck, but I can very noticeably feel it directly in the gas pedal. It's really only an issue during deceleration. What could it be??? Drive shaft U-joints? Torque Converter? Something else in the Front End? Something in the engine even?? I don't exactly have the funds to tackle every possible solution.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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2002 Ford F-250 5.4l ... What is the difference in sound between a lifter tick and an exhaust leak? I have a ticking noise, almost sounds more like a puff of air noise, it only makes the noise when I push the accelerator and is coming from the right side. Noise is most noticeable if I put my head under the passenger side front fender. I am guessing I have an exhaust leak somewhere between the heads at cat but just wondering about the difference in sound. I'd think if it were the lifters they would tick at idle, right? The truck sounds great at idle (after doing a tune up) I just want to get rid of this annoying tick when I accelerate.
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I'm sure this is a common issue, but I don't know exactly what to search for. I have a 2001 F250 7.3L. When I stop my truck, with my foot on the brake, the steering absolutely doesn't work. I replaced the PS pump, which it needed, plus all the hoses and it got better, but the no steer problem while braking is still there. I have seen that an upgrade in pressure hoses may work?
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I bought a 2004 F250 super duty 4x4 with the 6.0 a couple weeks ago and have a few questions. Hopefully all of these things are normal, but I thought I would ask you experienced drivers.
1) Occasionally while driving when I lift off the accelerator pedal I can hear a sort of loud rattle under the hood. I assume this is the turbo shutting down? Is that normal?
2) 4x4 and locking hubs... I have the 4x4 hi and low switch on the dash. Do I need to also manually lock the hubs to go into 4x4? After reading the manual it seems like I can just turn the dash switch and they should automatically lock, but I'm not sure. The hubs are not marked, but going by the pictures in the manual I think I know which is "lock" and which position is "auto" or off.
3) Front wheels hop at full turn. I expected wheel hop in 4x4 or with the hubs locked, but even in 2WD with the hubs in the auto position the tires still "hop" or knock a bit at sharp turns. Is this normal?
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I have a 99 F250 7.3PSD; I upgraded the tranny cooler after an episode of overheating while backing up a hill.
The truck has done well, hauled a few tractors with it, but recently I have noticed something that seems scary. When going downhill, I often relax on the accelerator. Usually there is some passive engine braking as happens with any auto tranny. Recently, the truck just coasts - it is as if you feel the tranny shift into neutral and you just coast, except I didn't shift. While this is happening, the accelerator pedal will not rev the engine. You can put the pedal all the way down -> rpms at about 6-800. No response.
At the bottom of the hill (so far) the engine gets louder. the rpms drop, and the accelerator works again. Every time, so far. But, if IO am going down hill, and want to accelerate to execute a laneg change or something - I can't. AFAIK, everything A-OK after the new tranny cooler. levels, etc.
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Recently on two occasions I pressed the accelerator clear to the floor with no response. After shifting into Park then back into Drive it drove normally for about a week. Now it has stalled out and was very stubborn to restart. Once running, the accelerator will sluggishly rev the engine while in Park, but in Drive, will not respond. TPS sensor or something else?
2004 6.0 Diesel, 75K miles, no mods, well maintained.
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On a cold crank the engine idles rough until it warms or the accelerator is pressed down. Also runs rough going up hills or towing. Check engine light is on and is throwing the code for bank 1 to lean and cat performance below threshold. Cats have been tested, good. Fuel trim tested, good. One mechanic said noth8ng is wrong with it well, there is. 2011 f250 6.2 gas...
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So my '99 F350 4x4 is making a clunking sound and there is a distinct jolt in the truck while this is occurring.
Symptoms: From a stop while accelerating, there is a distinct jolt and clunk. The best way I can describe the feeling is like something isn't tightened down all the way so there is a split second while inertia is generated and the "looseness" catches up to the acceleration.
When stopping, the clunk and jolt is generated when the truck comes to a complete stop. When the truck rebounds backwards a bit because of the suspension pulls it backwards after stopping, you will hear the clunk again.
I replaced the ball joints a week ago an a wheel hub bearing on the right side. I don't recall this before these repairs, but it may have been making this noise. I was more focused on the grinding from the wheel bearing so I may not have noticed the clunk and jolt then.
Where I should start looking for the problem?
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2009 F350 4x4 DRW. Just replaced rod ends, drag link, sway bar bushings and end links, ball joints, and shocks. I have a clunk when the axle travels downward on bumps. The only thing I see is that the tie rod assembly will rotate easily by hand and I can make it clunk when I rotate it. It does not rotate in the ends, the ends rotate with it. Thinking this may be flopping around over a bump. Does tie rod rotate easily?
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When I am driving and hit a bump in the road, especially when the rear tires contact it square. I hear a clunk at the rear end. Sounds like suspension, loose tailgate...
My truck is a 2016 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed. It has a factory installed fifth wheel hitch. I have looked at the obvious, spare tire, loose bolts... I removed the tailgate and it still makes the sound. I removed the insert in the receiver, still makes the sound. No goose neck ball in fifth wheel hitch. Checked bed bolts. Cant find it. Drives me crazy.
I also have a 2008, exact same truck, 200,000 miles, no clunking. I have driven in my friends 2014 F350 Crew Cab Long Bed, it clunks. Dealer pulled a new truck off the lot today, took a drive, it clunks. Dealer can't find it and confirms there is a clunk.
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