Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Same RPMs But Losing Speed - Trans Fluid Disappeared
Jan 16, 2016
I was driving to the store today and about halfway there the truck kept the same rpms but I was losing speed. The wrench lit up on the dash, checked the tuner (nothing out of the ordinary) so i pulled into the nearest parking lot and shut her down. The tuner is just there for my dpf delete and is set to "no power" or stock settings. It's a bully dog triple something or other. I don't race the truck or work it very hard for that matter. Basically a work truck that hauls more people than trailers.
Lifted the hood, checked the tranny fluid level and the stick was dry as a bone. Thing is, it's winter here and i haven't noticed any transmission fluid leaks anywhere ever. I'm gonna head to the local (two hour drive one way) parts store for fluid in the morning with my dads truck.
I'm wondering where it went? did it burn up or leak out and I didn't notice? Just wondering where to look first when i get it back home. Or did i simply fail in my maintenance checks (i admit i change my oil and fuel filters religiously but haven't checked the trans fluid) and it ran out??
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I have 2000 ford f350 7.3 diesel. (Approx 95,000 mi). Tried to tow heavy wood chipper out of soft backyard, truck on angle because of grade. Put in low and second for better traction. After somewhat high engine rpm tires started to move me ahead until spinning occurred upon which I would immediately stop and try again (slowly). Next thing I know trans fluid on ground and truck steaming. Let cool down, refilled trans oil to proper level, unhooked heavy load. Fluid NO longer leaking, drive home fine (towing nothing). What are my next steps? Very concerned I've done grave damage!?
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I drained the transmission fluid on my 2000 f250. I measured the fluid at about 6 quarts. I refilled with 6 quarts. I drove until the engine was hot and checked the fluid while running in park. Each time I check it I get a different reading on the dipstick. I wipe off the dipstick each time but sometimes I pull it out and it reads low. The next try it shows about 1/2 inch over full on the dipstick. Can't get two consistent readings. Is it harmful if it is a little over or under full?
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Well I went about 20mi to pickup a door for my inlaws. Get about a mile from home and my tow haul light is flashing. Truck starts shifting strange then I smell it trans fluid. If course I get stopped by a red light shut it down. Started and had to rev to get it to move now four houses away from home coast into the drive shut it off and trans fluid is covering the entire bottom of my truck. Even the rear tires inside are covered. I had the wife crank it and I blew a trans line near the ext. trans oil filter. What are the chances that I did not toast my trans? No prior shifting or slipping problems before this mishap.
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I have a 2000 SD F250, gasser, auto. Last week I pulled a heavy load and developed a tranny fluid leak. The fluid appears to be coming from what looks like a freeze plug on the bottom of the casing forward of the (torque converter?) pan . Is that plug easily replaced by a DYIer. Small leak. 150K on the motor. First time it has leaked. Heaviest load I've pulled.
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Truck: 2001Ford F350 5.4 auto 4x4
Issue: Engine seems to free rev over 2500 RPMs. Barely hits 50 MPH. Revs fine in park, no power in gear. At 1/4 throttle it will move, but sluggish at best. Once you get around 2500 RPMs it stops accelerating and just revs. Does this in every gear, and gets worse the faster you go. feels like its stuck inbetween gears almost. No CEL's
Replaced: MAF, TPS, Trans fluid and filter, fuel filter, cleaned intake system, fuel system treatment, O2 sensors. Trans fluid was dark, but no burnt smell.
I'm about to pull the exhaust and look for a clogged cat.
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2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
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I have 99 f350 v10 4x4 and trans shifts great under light rpms but 2-3 shifts very hard. At wide open from about 35 mph it will shift down and take off like a bullet but wont shift until I lift my foot and then it bangs hard from 2-3. All other gears are smooth. I did some searching and have found some threads saying it could be an accumulator spring that is broken? Truck has 115,000 miles on it. love the truck but want to fix this before it does some damage.
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I have a 06 f350 6.0. I'm losing hear at times. My temp gauge is right in the middle like always. As soon as I let off he throttle or come to a stop the heat turns cold and blows out cold air!
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Have a 99 F250 V10 was having issues with it going in limp mode took it to the shop they said number 1 cylinder running hot I had the head rebuild all new gaskets less than 10 miles truck shuts off pullover no antifreeze put antifreeze and water in Reservoir start back up look at Reservoir it's empty shut it off pour more water in Reservoir and it go straight down to empty.
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I have a 2000 7.3 just replaced the alternator little over 2 months ago old one was wore out...heres my problem the night before last I was coming home and started to lose charge and made it home..shut the truck off and tried to restart and it would just click due to low volts.. the next day tested both batteries and they tested weak so I just cleaned the battery post and the cables..and started up and ran fine all day.. last night on the way home started to lose volts again got all the way down to 8 volts showing then all of a sudden it kicked in went back to normal.. and now today started to do the same thing by losing volts but now its dead but the batteries still test weak with no discharge under a load
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I have a 2008 6.4 f-250. It has 139,00 Miles and I have a problem with the truck losing coolant and overheating on the interstate. When cruising 75-80 my truck will sometimes begin to puke coolant from the degas bottle and my cooling fan will begin to run. Engine coolant temp once spiked to 240 degrees before I could get off onto the shoulder. Around town the truck does fine although I do notice a loss of coolant but no overheating issues what so ever. I have the Dpf Deleted and Egr coolers are off. I run an H+S on a mild tune. Is there any other thing that could be wrong with this truck besides head gaskets? I am not looking forward flipping that bill. Trying the exhaust all other possibilities first.
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99 F-250 SD 6.8 had an issue with it while moving from Del to Phx, Az. Found collapsed air cleaner element. It looked like someone stepped on it. I replaced it as well as the MAF. This fixed the issue. This was 350 miles into the trip. The truck seemed to be down on power as it didn't want to pull my trailer up any type of grade except with OD off. Around 2K miles into the trip in developed a random misfire with no codes. I am at my final destination and the misfire is worse. I am not showing any codes at all or pending either. It is a bit toasty outside to be out there diagnosing issues, and I won't start changing parts randomly either. I have a NGS scan tool with the proper cards.
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I have noticed that in the past 1-2 months my trans probably has just get to 150*. Even on warm/hot days. Lately its just been 120-140 all day every day.
Can this cause any problems? It used to go up to 150-170 when warm, now it takes a hot day to get there.
I assume its fine, but just checking because I have, admittedly, neglected my trans fluid.
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My tranny only goes to 3rd gear in 4x4 lo is that normal? 2014 6.2 xl f250 ....
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I have 03 f250 v10. just replaced the engine and got everything all connected and started it up and it idles great...the problem is that when you press the gas pedal it starts to drive but then it looses power and acts like its missing. cant get it to go 30 mph. While keeping it floored eventually it gets up to 2000 rpm and then starts to pick up speed.
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I have a 16 with a 6.2. Truck has less than 1k on it but the tranny seems to run hot. What do these run at?
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first heard it a few weeks ago after the wind storm hit us here in nj, my girlfriends grandmother has her fifty foot pine tree rip out of the ground in her front yard. since it was only thirty feet from the street. I said hell ill drag this sucker to the road and cut it up there instead of dragging everything by hand. I figured 4wd high was good (don't know how heavy a pine tree this sized weighs) and I hooked the tow strap to the tree trunk and started to pull. first 4wd high was struggling but the real problem was this high pitch howling i was hearing, went about ten feet and the noise started to bother me, so I stopped and put the truck in 4low the noise stopped and the truck drug the tree with zero effort.
So I didn't think much more of it till today, got a little dirty trying to take the dog swimming and needed 4wd, as soon as i started to hit the skinny pedal and the motor made the tires turn that dam howl came back! rocked the truck a few times and ever time the motor lugged from trying to spin all three tire the same howl came back. switched to 4low to get out and the noise went away?????? Went back to 4high and sure enough the howl was back? regardless i got out but now i have this howl when using 4high and I am really working the truck hard in 4high. I am thinking torque converter is slipping making the sound and4low multiplies the power enough to make it go away from the ease it now has to spin the tires? I am gonna go tomorrow and climb a few hills and see if i can get the howl to start again in 4high...
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Is there some sort of reset to turn off the Check Engine light? I had replaced the TPS sensor, and after a day the engine seems to have stopped the high idle and returned to normal, and now it still has the check engine with the same error code, but the problem seems to be resolved. My previous post: [URL] .....
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I have another very odd problem with my 2003 F250 7.3 PS with 206000 miles on it.
I am visiting my parents and every time I go thru this certain area my truck will act up. The first thing that happens is the truck starts losing power and then it starts bucking like water in the fuel or the cam position sensor is giving out.
WHAT I HAVE DONE SO FAR: I have drained the fuel filter assembly ( no water ) and a new cam position sensor has been installed (about 5000 miles ago, I even put old one back it to check it out same results). I have driven the truck all over the place and don't have an issue except in this ONE spot. I am beginning to think there is some kind of high powered RF going on in this area causing my truck to act up. I am thinking of hooking up my autoenginuity scanner up to it and hopefully see something going on.
Is there anything I can do to block this out if it is a RF problem. I think it is effecting my Pcm/ECM for then engine causing the truck to act up.
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