Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rust Under Rear Window Inside The Cab?
Apr 9, 2014
once a year i remove all my seats (yes i unbolt front and rear seats and vacuum real good) and when i lifted the rear bench seat back from the rear wall i noticed THIS to some it might not seem like a big deal but to me this is a HUGE problem, i know my trucks a 2004 but whats gonna happen another ten years from now and longer down the road if i don't stop this now? Im gonna have to be buying or making a repair panel for the rear cab thats what! I plan on keeping my truck forever and buy a new truck down the road so i want this one to last, only thing i can think of is the rear sliding window rubber seal is leaking and letting the water get between the two body panels? From outside where the cab corner meets the center body panel piece none of the factory body sealer is missing or cracked so it has to be the rear slider seal?
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Problem is two fold. First......my grill "Ford" emblem is chipping and fading. Second....there is rust along the inside edge of the tailgate near the weep holes. I have been told the rust must perforate the area in order for it to be covered by warranty. Truck is pretty close to pristine condition and two service reps said rust is coming from the inside of the tailgate. Doesn't make sense to me to wait for the rust to get really nasty before it being covered by warranty. I bet a new tailgate cost more than that!!!! Hey whats the deal with the eroding "Ford" emblem??? Looks like the coating is flaking off and letting the blue paint fade away. I don't think this is normal but that too doesn't seem to be covered by warranty !! Maybe I should think twice about my next vehicle !!!!! Comments ??????
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I own an '03 F250 and have had it since new. I love the truck, keep it in good condition, and plan on keeping it for at least a few more years. For some time now I've had the classic small spots on one rear fender well. The spots are getting a little bigger and look like they're going to come through soon. I'm not a big fan of fender flares, but from what I understand, that's the easiest way to fix the problem, cut the rust out/seal it, install fender flares. Is there any other way to fix the rust without repainting the whole bed? I don't like fender flares because I think they look a little weird with stock tires and also because it's only one fender that is rusting, but I'd have to install them on all four. If fender flares are the only way to go, any that are small and low profile?
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My passenger rear tire is wearing out on the inside edge. Thoughts as to cause and possible fix?
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How to improve the clothes hooks above the rear window? I find them to be nearly useless for clothes hangers. I searched but didn't find any answers. Maybe there is some other attachment that I'm missing.
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My father has a 04 f350 crew with heated mirrors. It does not have rear window defrost. The mirrors will not defrost, So I checked fuse panel under dash and no bad fuses. We don't have a owners manual so we weren't sure which fuse was for mirrors. What should we check next??? I tried searching forum but couldn't find much about the testing of the mirrors.
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I did a search and flipped thru the owners manual without any luck. But my 99 Super Duty is equipped with a rear power sliding window but I can't find the dang switch anywhere. Where is it supposed to be located...
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I have a 2006 F250 Super, CrewCab 4 dr, 6.0 w/60K. Last month I tried the rear power window and .......nothing.
It tried to open 1/2 inch and then stopped, had to try to power it closed and it moved 1/4 inch and I pushed it the rest. Removed the rear cover behind the seats and I can see the motor and wires attempting to move but it does not move and I am afraid to burn the motor out or push too hard and break a cable or worse.
The track looks really dirty, I use that window maybe once every 2 months.
1. Can I replace the motor myself?
2. Can I put something in the track to clean/lubricate?
3. Should I try to open the window under power and some additional manual pushing?
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My 2006 F350 has a nasty air leak/whistle coming from the rear power sliding window, unfortunately I found the one of the vertical seals laying in the cab. Looking for some insight on if there is a replacement seal kit, where I can find one and how difficult is it to install?
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Ok, so I have been noticing that the rear power window has been slow to close. So today I open it and now it wont close. When I press the button on the dash, I see the cable snap tight and hear the motor turn on so its not a fuse or motor. What I need to replace/fix. I have tried to blow the track out, tried wd40 tried having somebody hold the button while I try to assist it in closing, but none of that worked. It is now half way and wont go any further.
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I will be pulling apart the back of my crew cab to replace the broken old speakers and run some new wires, thought while I'm in there I should look at the power sliding rear window. The switch has power and the fuse is good, however when pressed, the window won't move. I can move it by hand though.
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I was using a fluke to test voltage at the connector for the driver visor mirror light when I accidentally crossed leads and heard a pop. Now my Radio, windows, moonroof and sliding rear window are dead. I have checked the 30 amp service (601 fuse), the delay acc fuse (42), delay acc relay, and of course the power windows and radio fuses. None of which are bad and none of which seem to have any power. Is there another relay I should be checking? I have read about the battery saver relay in the instrument cluster but have not ruled it out yet. My dome lights, instrument lights all work. The truck also has a Viper remote start.
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I am trying to change out my solid back glass for a power slider that's oem... My question that ford could not answer is, is the wiring all in place minus the switch for the install.. I have a 2012 F250 XLT. I am not even sure where the switch to move the window would go either...
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The rear power sliding window on my 05 6.0 F250 has started to open and close very slowly. I recently had my windows tinted. I checked track and can not see any obstruction. Having problems with their power sliders? Wondering if coincidence or if there is problem with window motor.
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I didn't get the windshield replaced rusted the whole way across the top of the window. Now to fix it right need a new roof panel. This truck barely see snow if it does it gets washed underneath. gets waxed 5 times a year washed every 2 weeks if not sooner now a spot of rust anywhere else on the body. well the bottom of the tail gate but that was covered by a bedrug. But the windshield has me upset to say the least. Really would like to know if there is a problem there like ford not prepping the metal right since it was a new body style for that year.
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My truck, 2001 F250 SuperCab 4x4 should be delivered any day from the Pacific Northwest. It has Zero rust on it and I want to keep it that way. Unfortunately here in Kansas City, Missouri most of the trucks of this vintage I see have rust around the back wheels on the bed. What steps, if any, can I take to prevent rust on my new truck? I'm pretty OCD about cleaning my vehicles (or anything for that matter, lol) so washing the wheel wells is a no-brainer.
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My 02 F-250 (week end truck) has begun to start showing a lot more surface rust on frame and axles. It's about half rust and half black frame. Are there any products that I can spray or brush on that will convert and stop this. ?
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What is the thread size/length of the 20 transmission pan bolts on the 4R100? I am replacing the pan since the rust has finally started weeping ATF, and the bolts need to be replaced as well, they have turned into little rusty nubs. So i want to use stainless ones. I could pull one and go to the hardware store, but what is the size i can stop on the way home.
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It appears it is mostly surface rust and am looking for something relatively simple to fix it. I would prefer to use something in aerosol cans since it is small amount of total area, maybe Rustoleum products?
I will attempt to remove as much of the rust as possible with circular wire brush on drill but feel there will still be little crevices that I won't be able to fully clean.
I'm also interested in knowing what I should use to harden the surface to prevent the excessive chipping of paint in this area.
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I am looking at getting my new truck, my 05 F350 6.0, with factory trailer brake controller, all set up for a gooseneck. I was wondering if there was an OEM kit to add a trailer connection plug to the inside of the bed? If there is, what are the part number(s)?
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I have a 2012 F-250 crew cab 4x4 XL, 6.7L. I recently added a set of factory 20" wheels from a 2017 F-250 Lariat and put a set of new Nitto Ridge Grappler tires, 295/60/20, on the wheels. Since adding the new wheels tires, I've had a shake inside the cab when traveling between 70-75mph that we can't seem to pinpoint. It certainly feels like a balance issue, but we've road forced every wheel/tire and even had Nitto replace one tire that had a road force reading outside of the "normal" guidelines. Thought for sure that one tire was the issue, but installed last night and still the same issue. The shake is felt mostly in the front and rear seats. The passenger front seat shakes fairly vigorously. We've re-balanced all 4 wheels and tires, I've had the front end re-aligned, twice. I never had any issue with the factory wheels (which were the ford factory steel wheels 17"), even after adding larger tires. I can't imagine it's the new lighter aluminum wheels since people put on lighter after market wheels every day.
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