Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rumble Noise At Low Speeds Like 30 Mph Or Lower And More Prominent When Come To A Stop
Apr 25, 2017
Experienced rumble type noise, like if you drive over those highway rumble things on the edge of the road. It happens at low speeds like 30 mph or lower and more prominent when you come to a stop. It came on all of a sudden . Replaced new tie rods, dampener and stabilizer bar links and still have it. Tires wear great and thought the hub's were still turned in as it sounded the front differential drive line was going around. This is on a 2002 F250 crew cab.
The complete tie rod kit that connects to the the pitman arm isn't cheap, it did need replaced as there was a lot of play in it but damn, when on a set income and it still have same problem , very upsetting. On social security disability and I told them that I can't keep spending money on parts that they told me were bad and it didn't work. Everything is tight on the wheel according to the tire shop , it takes me a while to get underneath and I can't find anything .
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Every once in a while, while driving my 06 350 SRW at slow speeds, I hear a grinding noise coming from the left side of the truck. It is almost like a winding grinding noise if that makes sense. It will grind slow to a stop, and then I hear a clunk.
This is a very intermittent problem. The tires are completely shot on the truck, and I thought that would be it, but considering it is intermittent and the clunk I hear as I come to a stop I figured it could be it.
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I have a 2003 super duty V10 4WD super cab long bed.
loud deep rumble noise when turn on the blower. both heat and a/c. removed the blower and seemed to turn ok. blew out all vents. removed heater radiator cover, checked most flaps to see if working. doesn't seem to be obstruction invent. the flap behind blower clear and functioning ok.
When on second speed, almost sounds like blower motor is out of balance. if run on high for 1 minute, smell electrical burning! Think to replace motor will work? will post another issue with radio and power windows
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I have a 2003 F250 SD with 130K miles. I primarily use it to pull a race car, about 5000 lbs is all. It has all the upgrades, from studs to EGR delete. Ford replaced the automatic transmission in 2005. I'm looking at a truck newer than 2011, but thinking either a flex fuel 250 or diesel. I want it loaded and 4WD, but they seem expensive.
Anyway, I have bad front wheel bearings. I know this because of the low rumble noise and how it acts when I rock the steering. How tough are they?? I build my entire race cars, so I have a well-equipped garage and some ability to cuss, but I don't have a lot of time. A buddy wants to do it for $300 total for both sides plus parts cost.
Also, this is the bad part I really need input on. It has a whining when at light throttle load and above 50-60 MPH. This seems to come from the floorboard area behind me. Gear changes do NOT affect the pitch, but a change in throttle crowding makes it louder and weaker. It has no coast down noise at all, and the noise pitch seems to track the drive shaft speed. It is a whine much like the low gear set in an automatic trans, but it does it in any gear with or without 4WD on. The only thing that affects the level is slightly pushing the accelerator, speed, or weight I am towing.
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So to start at the beginning.... Traveled across Canada East to West towing 11000lb travel trailer, no problem. Have used 4x4 in a few campsites to pull out of a pitch without spinning the wheels and causing damage to the site when it has been really wet. All good.
Got to Banff in December and the town was an Ice rink, engaged 4x4 and all good. Crossed the Rockies and the 4x4 starts making grinding noises. Up and down some mountains and squeaking, grinding noise then clunking.
I have manual hubs, disengage and the noise all goes away. Engage 1 hub and no noise. Engage both hubs, noise back.
I bought some needle bearings and went to swap them. Got hubs apart and they look good. No scoring on the drive shafts. They are not dry, but as I have them open, repack them with grease anyway.
Do more research... Remove ABS sensor and repack main bearings with grease. (broke one sensor pulling it out, too cold plastic brittle oops). Still clunking noises.
The universal joints look good, doesn't appear to be any play in them. However, the axle seal (knuckle seal) (F81Z-3254-CB) does move around a lot in it's metal casing. It is tight on the shaft, but with the hub off, I can move it in and out, and move it side to side. If I had ESOF hubs I guess they would not be locking as I'm sure there would be no vacuum in there!
Question is then, would this seal be allowing the universal joint to wobble under load in 4x4 mode? Would this wobble be the cause of the rumble? As it is labelled as a seal and not a bearing, I wouldn't of thought this would have been a loaded point, and the weight would have been taken by the associated bearings and it could be run without this seal? But if it is not this, then I'm still looking for a clue as to what is making the rumble....
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Have a 02 v10 125xxx miles have had grinding noise on drivers side sounds like driving on rumble strip took out the unit hub everything looks good changed out the needle bearing because it was frozen still have sound after needle bearing replacement sound goes away if hubs are locked so question is it the unit bearing or stub shaft...
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2004 6.0L Excursion Limited 4x4.
I recently developed a "rumble" with vibration while braking. I describe it as a rumble because I associate it to a similar sound, cadence, and feeling as if you were slowing down on the rumble strips you find on the side of the highway.
It is mostly only noticeable at lower speeds. I know the sound and feeling of warped rotors, but this seems different. If it makes any difference, one issue I've been dealing with is that the front transfer case does not release when 4x4 is off and hubs are in AUTO.
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I was wondering if there is a aftermarket product to give my truck a more Rumble when starting and idling.
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I was going to put new ball joints in but wimped out and had my mechanic do them. I'm too old to be doing that kind of crap. I just replaced the fuel pump with the correct one. That's enough under truck time for a while. 91,000 miles on the originals, stopped the rumble / rattle when I hit bumps in the front end. Getting the alignment Tuesday. Guess I got my money's worth out of them. Still has original brake pads too. Thinking of doing an upgrade to the brakes, drilled and slotted, I tow an RV and need it to protect the idiots that pull out in front of me. 2001, V10, CC ......
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I noticed a moaning from the front end a few weeks back and it seems to be slowly getting a little worse. It is only noticeable when I'm accelerating or maintain speed, but as soon as I let off the accelerator and start to decelerate, it goes away. Sometimes, when the truck hasn't been driven for at least a couple hours, I pull away and there is a really noticeable sort of "clunk clunk clunk" but then it goes away and it just moans. I can also hear some noise from the front end at highway speeds, but of course it is hard to hear much else other than engine and road noise from the cab. It's a 2003 F250 with a 7.3 and four wheel drive.
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The other day I pulled a fella out of a ditch. It was a dulley 350 with a lowboy trailer and a small dozer on it.
Well, after finishing and driving away. I inadvertently left the truck in 4x4 while driving on wet pavement at speeds ~30 mph. What I noticed was: when I let off the accelerator there was a low growl/vibration noise coming from the front/under the floorboards while the truck coasted to slower speeds.
I have never had my truck A) in 4x4 on clear roads or B) at speeds above 10mph in 4x4. Maybe they all make noise at low speeds in a quite cab in 4x4. I wouldn't know, I've never driven it under these conditions.
So, can you hear your truck in 4x4 when not giving it gas and coasting on the road?
I did not think I put the truck through too much while pulling that fella out, but now I'm wondering....oh, and I at one point I coasted forward and ran over the towing strap that was attached to my front pull hook and it made a HECK of a noise...could that have done something bad?
4x4 still works, and everything seems/sounds fine otherwise. I might just be hearing the front end putting friction on the transfer case and I can hear it in the tranny as she coasts to a stop (it goes away as soon as I press the accelerator at any speed) but like I said, I've never noticed this before.
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Alright i got a 2000 f250 with the 7.3 and its stick, when i let off the clutch to start moving, and at low speeds like mainly 1st and 2nd gear. Right below the cab there's a loud kinda growling or rumble, it shakes the truck a bit til i start moving good. Then it goes away. But what it could be? I think pilot bearing.
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My vehicle had a shudder which felt like driving over a rumble strip. It would usually occur after hitting a small bump at around 35 mph and hearing a clunk underneath. The shudder lasted just a few seconds. Checked the whole steering, suspension, chassis, drivetrain, u-joints, rear e-brake shoes etc. Finally found that the RF axle shaft could be moved up and down excessively in the steering knuckle. Removed axle shaft, R&R u-joint, vacuum hub seal and the torrington bearing in the hub. (used to call it a spindle bearing) ...
There was a little bit of wear into the stub shaft where the spindle bearing rides. That removed the play from the axle when it was all re-assembled. I was very happy until about a month later when it started doing it again, but not as bad as it was originally. I think maybe the stub end of the axle shaft needs to be replaced due to the wear in it. I don't want to just throw a somewhat expensive part at it without some info about "superduty shudder".
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I took my truck in for a clunking noise in the driveline as I come to a stop and sometimes when shift into park. It is now the 7th and I'm told parts have been ordered and the truck will be worked on when parts come in. I asked to speak to general manager and still no call back. I called customer relations and nothing they can do.
Honestly I think the have me on the back burner since I'm warranty work opposed to marked up repairs. Am I being unreasonable on my expectations of repair time? I called around and a ring and pinion job is quoted at 3 days at the most. Other repairs have been approved as well and parts are in for those, but they have not actually repaired them either.
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2016 F250 6.7L 4x4
I getting some tranny noise when towing on incline from a complete stop. When I slowly press the gas pedal I hear grinding noise. If i press the gas more my truck starts to move and the noise goes away. It doesnt happen all the time. This started right after my 1000 miles recommended break in before towing per ford manual.
My truck now has 2800 miles and the grinding noise occurs intermediately regular driving. Mostly on steep incline or decline. I haven't taken it to the dealer yet because I cant recreate the issue all the time.
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I need to do both lower ball joints. is there a write up or process to do it? do I have to remove the whole hub assembly/knuckle thing or can I do it with all that stuff in place?
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I have replaced my ball joints and now putting everything back together. I am having trouble tightening the nut on the lower ball joint, the joint turns with the nut as soon as it starts to get tight.
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I have a 2005 ford f250 6.0 I was driving back home from a interview and my truck died at a stop light it would crank but no start I tried replacing the stc fitting didn't work so the I replaced the ipr still didn't work bought a new hpop still didn't work I'm lost at this point I have low pressure oil pump is working new icp, what is going on?
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i have an 04 f250 5.4 4x4 250k miles+ ...the truck has been acting weird lately. I has 0 power...i went to pass an 18 wheeler today at about 15 mph and gave it about half throttle...well it held first gear till about 5 grand then slammed into 2nd...It just has 0 umph ... it wont even consistanly pick up speed at half throttle or over..the rpms will stop ...then pick up...then stop...it always accelerated smoothly....it is bogging really bad...it was downshifting into 3rd today on little overpass hills that it NEVER does that on...something is telling me torque converter BTW no codes and no flashing overdrive light
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This is an early 99 f250 powerstroke 6spd manual 4wd, is it common or normal to hear a lot of transmission rattle at low rpm especially in lower gears under a load. Starting off from a dead stop it sounds awful until about 1500 rpm where it clears up (or load is reduced). I'm hoping it's just the power pulses going through splined shafts, gears, etc.
210k on the truck, just changed every fluid in it.
I've been a honda owner and mechanic for all of my driving years where shifting at 8500 rpm is common and now I'm having a hard time learning what this thing likes, rpm ranges to avoid, ect; even shifting I find difficult. At least you can heel toe with the pedal arrangement...
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I have an '04 Super Duty 6.0 and am just a couple hundred miles shy of 200K. The truck seems to be running great and I want to keep it that way. I'd rather invest in some upgrades and longevity than go into debt for a newer truck. What I can upgrade/do to keep this thing going for another 200K? I have replaced all of the injectors, the FICM, turbo, and the EGR valve through attrition. I also have a "very minor oil seepage leak on the lower end" of my engine. I'm not anywhere near mechanically inclined with vehicles, so almost any work that needs to be done will be through a local shop. I keep reading about "bullet proofing" the engine and have found very mixed reviews ranging from "YOU MUST DO THIS" to "it isn't necessary" or "bulletproof products are crap made in China".
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