My right rear supercab door will not stop squeaking/chattering when driving or idle at a stoplight.. I know this is a common problem for these trucks but how do I fix or dr it up?
View 7 RepliesSo, don't know if this is normal or not, but after lifting the rig, I'm experiencing a whole lot of these types of sounds from the leafs or the springs or whatever, whenever I start, stop, or turn. Is there an easy way to silence the noise? I've tried all sorts of lubricants on the leafs and springs, but I only get (at best) a week of muted noises. While it's only an inconvenience, it sure would be nice to have the rig be quiet again.
View 6 RepliesI've replaced the brakes that weren't in that bad of shape anyways and even replaced one of the rotors as it was under federal regulations. I've even put the brake squeak goop on the back of the pads and it keeps squeaking and squeaking and it's driving me insane. Am i missing something here? I don't here any other super duty's squeaking on the road.
View 1 RepliesI have a 5.4L 2001 F250. I recently replaced the starter and this morning when I turned the key it just started clicking. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and swapped the battery from another truck and it started fine for a while. But after this morning the relays are still chattering even when the key isn't in. I believe it's still the battery ....
View 10 RepliesI just bought my 2015 F350 long bed Platinum a month ago, and the first trip with my 12,000 lb. 5th wheel had a vibration when starting out, but only from a stoplight with some acceleration or an incline, not at level slow startup.
View 6 Replies2001 f350 v10, initial problem was when i came to stop at light it idled rough. I changed all plugs,injectors and COP, and bad connectors thereto. Changed the clock spring as well. Now the truck idles like crap at first start of of the day then run fine there after. Replaced IAC, TPS, Temp sensor. Condition getting worse and now the temp gauge does not work. I am thinking maybe CAT Converter loaded up?
View 2 RepliesI have a 2008 F250 crew cab lariat 4x4 with 20 inch factory wheels that the steering wheel shakes during normal driving left to right. I bought this truck with 1500 miles on it. This shaking started at 50k miles and I was thinking it was a balance issue so I got new tires a month later since mine were about worn out anyways. They were factory replacement nitto terragrapplers. Shake was still there, swapped out for another set of nittos and shake still there, swapped to BFG AT KO's and shake better, but still there. I have gone through 10 or so balances, 5 roadforce balances, 2 alignments at 4 different shops including the ford dealer through the 3 sets. My wheels are scratched to hell and back from the careless people at the tire stores from so many balances.
My truck sat at the Ford dealer for a week just the other day and they changed the steering stabilizer. I thought it was gone, but a a few days later shaking started again. It almost feels as if every little bump, rut, crack in the road the steering wheel feels and shimmies (doesn't matter the speed, gets worse and more noticeable at higher speeds). The Ford Dealer says can't duplicate, but then when I go down there and test drive with them it's "oh yeah I see that, it shouldn't be doing that". The Ford Dealer says they can't find anything loose in the front end when I tell them to check tie rods, bearings, etc.
My truck has 62k miles on it now and it's driving me to the point of thinking about trading it on a Chevy. I love my truck, but it kills me everytime I make a payment and it rides like crap. I am still under extended warranty so I need to get this fixed before it goes out. I've also noticed that if I turn my steering wheel back and forth real quick while driving like warming up for a Nascar race I can feel a bumble in the steering wheel. This is NOT the death wobble as I use to get that around the 20k mile range and it disappeared and has never been back.
The rear doors on my super cab rattle like there is no tomorrow. It is the panels rattling. There has been a lot of discussion about the doors and the way they latch being the problem with the typical rattle and cluck doors.
Have to take off the panels to see if they can be dampened in anyway? Where are the fasteners keeping the panel on?
I am about to take the panel off and leave them off. Some days I laugh, some days I cry. My truck has 90K miles on it and they have clanged and banged since day one.
My rear cab door pass side decided it wasn't going to open anymore. Tried playing with the lock. Flipper thing and the inside handle with no luck.
View 4 RepliesSo, in my 99 Bounder RV (F53 chassis), V10
I think it has a 4R100 transmission in it (I have not verified this).
I had the oil and filter changed about 10K ago.
Runs and shifts fine .... then I stop and idle with it in gear (say stopped in traffic for a few minutes).
Now the thing shifts super hard! I actually get rubber in all gears.
So I pull over, shut it off. Restart the unit and everything is fine again.
It does this very consistently!
I went to the local transmission shop. They said with 110K in an RV it could be anything and I should think about letting them rebuild it.
Now that is something I would do ... not diagnose a problem and just rebuild it. I thought a "professional" would actually look for the problem first.
I don't want to rebuild the transmission if there is small item that will fix this.
The front brakes on my '02 Super Duty squeal a little from time to time, but today have been squealing mildly while driving and get louder the further down I press the brake pedal until coming to a stop. All new brakes were installed less than one year ago.
View 11 Replies99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
View 2 RepliesI have a 2005 f350 6.0, my left rear stop signal is not working. I have changed the relay. I only get 5-6 volts at the plug and green-orange wire all the way to the engine bay. Not sure what the problem is????
View 11 Replies1999 F350 7.3TD auto 4x4 crew 8'. I've noticed that I get a soft, low, short grumble from the rear end when leaving a stop with a load.
My son just used the truck and says he thinks the rear is binding while in reverse while backing into a parking space, wheels turned.
What are the potential problems here? I've heard a fluid change with "anti-slip additive" could be the answer. Which anti slip additive should I use?
I bought a crew from a dealer, all the dome lights and cargo lights had the bulbs removed, so i put them back in and of coarse they all stayed on after you close the door, plus the door ajar light stays on when you are driving. I do notice the radio shuts off when you open the door after you turn off the ignition. Does that work on the same door switch, eliminating those?
Also are there switches on the rear doors also? Noticed that the radio isn't effected when you open a rear door. I tried to get the dealer to look at it a day after i took it home, a ford dealer at that, and they told me they tried to figure it out , and couldn't before they sold me the truck. Doesn't say much for their service department.
Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
View 7 RepliesI am experiencing what feels like a "bump in the rear" when initially starting from a dead stop. It feels like a car behind me tapped the bumper or that the truck "hunkers down" first, then moves. Tranny seems fine also. Once moving, there is no problem whatsoever. There atre no noises, leaks, or other symptoms. Also, when coming to a stop, it feels the same way just before the truck completely stops. If I drift forward a little, then apply the accelerator, it does not "slip" or hunker down.
Took it to the dealer and they claim that they can't find anything wrong and may just be the suspension releasing? The truck does this whether loaded or not?
2001 F250 CC Lariat SB 7.3
I just changed all the pads and rotors on my 08 F350. The brakes are much better now, only the rear brakes got quite hot after driving it for about 15 min. Turns out the rear parking brakes are dragging on the back brakes. I adjusted the parking brake on both sides so they no longer drag and the heat issue is gone. The problem now it the parking brake does not engage until the pedal runs out of travel. Any tips to get this just right? Will the parking brake self adjust like the old drum brakes and shoes use to do years ago?
View 7 RepliesI have a 02' 250 4x4 with 250000 miles on it. While driving between 55 to 65 mph there is a roar and vibration that seems to be coming from the rear. I have about 35% tire tread left and have had the rear tires balanced and it still does it. Having issues with drive shafts unbalanced or rear ends?? I am not sure where to start....
View 1 RepliesI've got a 2006 F250 5.4l Super Cab. When I bought the truck the rear interior door trim panels were missing. I tried to order them straight from ford but it turns out they no longer carry them, and I can't seem to find them anywhere online. I've also looked at the salvage yards in my area- nothing. Where I would be able to find these elusive creatures?
View 3 RepliesThe doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.