Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Replacing Glow Plug - Dead Completely After Noise From Fuse Box?
Jan 6, 2016
i was replacing my glow plug relay and my ratchet hit one of the small wires and sparked. i went in the truck and I heard a really fast clicking noise at the fuse box. I opened it up a very top small relay was the one clicking. i replaced it and it still clicks. the truck is TOTALLY DEAD no power to anything. I checked ALL the fuses under dash and under the hood, they are all good. both batts are at 12. 9 volts. what would kill the whole truck like this. is there a main fuse somewhere? I really need to get this going tonight. it's gonna rain all day tomorrow and this is my only Tow Truck for my business.
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I have a new f350 with 1500 miles and the check engine light came on. Took it to dealer he said it was the DEF heater. He replaced that part and then it came back on and now its the GLOW PLUG RELAY MODULE. Now for the good part. Ford told dealer that I could drive the truck with the CEL on. Ford stated that they were remanufacturing the glow plug relay and that is was not available at this time and not sure when it will be ready. I filed a complaint with ford, but with little success. Not sure what else to do about this issue.
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I have an 04 F350 with Glow Plug errors on cylinder 2, 4 and 8. I have already replaced the harness on that side because the old one was gunked up pretty bad. Still have the same issue. Does this sound like a GPCM issue to ya'll?
AE pulled the following codes:
P0672 Cylinder 2 Glow Plug Circuit
P0674 Cylinder 4 Glow Plug Circuit
P0678 Cylinder 8 Glow Plug Circuit
Not having issues starting but it rarely gets into the 30's here in FL.
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I have a 2003, f-350, 6.0L with a K&N Filter. While driving the glow plug light comes on and the power is shut down. After a few seconds the power comes back and it won't do it for a while. No codes. I replaced all of the glow plugs and wires. What's causing this?
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Okay, I just bought the truck (all stock except for straight pipe and cai). Nothing bullet proofed yet. It has 125,xxx miles on it and for the 4 months I had it I had no issue. Well now while idling or driving the glow plug light will flash on then off and stay off. I'll have no power and after a few minute it'll die on me. But start right back up. Is this a harness issue? 2006 6.0.....
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2005 F250 6.0L ... My truck is running really rough when the engine isn't all the way quite warmed up. once the truck is fully warmed up to normal running temp it runs good. I am getting four engine codes. P0672, P0673, P0674, P0676 These codes say 2,3,4, and 6 glow plugs have a open circuit. Can this be the cause of my problem?
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Am i correct in starting to look into why I can't hook a scanner or Torque Pro bluetooth up to my truck and starting with blown Cig lighter fuse? (Cig lighter doesnt work, power port does)
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Did the blue spring upgrade today. The driver side battery was disconnected for 2 hours. After finishing the upgrade I reconnected the battery. When I touched the positive cable to the battery I heard a fuse blow. Now I have no lights, chimes, instruments, gauges, NOTHING, everything is dead. Cannot find any fuse blown. Is there a master fuse?
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I have a 2008 f-250 2 days ago all light stopped work except the head lights found a blown fuse replaced with a new fuse and now all the lights work except the right rear brake and signal but the running light works so i know its getting power looked at the wireing and it all looked good to me oh ya pulled my trailer in and same thing everything worked but the right brake and signal ....
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My 1999 f-250 7.3 has been sitting for months, and I went to start it and both batteries are dead. Replaced both batteries and at first the alarm went off like normal. Turned the alarm off, hit the unlock button and it beeped like normal. Got in and stuck the key in the ignition and tried to turn it over. Completely dead. Now I cant even get the alarm to go off, showing no signs that its even getting any power. And all I'm hearing is a low clicking noise in the cab.
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A few weeks ago, my employees were driving home one of my work trucks, a 2001 F350 7.3 4x4 Crew w. 130K miles. They were on a straight road in a small town when the steering went completely out. The truck veered into a telephone pole. No one was injured. The truck has major damage to the front passenger's side.
I finally got the truck back to my shop today. It is quite evident what caused the problem. The gear/splined shaft that protrudes from the steering box and is connected to the pitman arm sheared completely off.
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Long story short, I need to replace the box on my 2008 F350. Do the boxes from '14-'15 models line up? I know the fuel door is different, but is the rest the same?
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My father's truck is still having power steering issues. After replacing the power steering pump I went from no power steering to power steering when I turn right but not when I turn left. So now I'm going to replace the Steering Gear Box. Where I can get step by step instructions on the best way to get to the gear box and how to get it out?
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My problem had been intermittent for last few days. I have a Ford Crew Cab - 7.3 Powerstroke Diesel. The ford store told me it would cost hundreds of dollars to chase this short- to wait til it finally burns out then - bring truck to them.?
My fuse # 45 a 10 AMP fuse . Keeps blowing out. This fuse controls the gauges on dashboard and fuel peddle. I can start engine and if gauges come up like they should- I can place into driver - and give engine fuel from peddle- gauges down dead and no fuel go to motor. It just idles and still runs and will still move forward or backward. But only at idle speed.
I could replace blown fuse - #45 - 10 amp and it would a the first few times would go and work normally.
Now everytime I replace fuse it blows fuse - sometimes after putting 10 or more fuses in- one might work until I stop or put into park. Then fuse blows again??
Last night and today it took no less than 20 - 10amp fuses to get close to home and end up straight wiring with a small piece of electrical wire - severing as a jumper- it ran great - til I stop at mail box and got mail - saw slight smoke and pulled wire quickly out and idled down driveway to house..
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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The key ring part of the fob for the keyless entry on the truck (2006 F250 V10) broke a while back. Finally got around to buyin a replacement only to realize that the keyless entry that came with the truck is not OEM. It's an Omega L2M 4410.
In trying to cycle locks to replace the fobs, the locks will not cycle. Tried everything that can be found on forums, youtube, etc. all to no avail. This leads me to believe that the aftermarket keyless was put on because there wasn't keyless from the factory.
I have experience with installing aftermarket systems, but this one stumps me - can't find where the system was installed in the first place. To me, this sounds like it should go to a shop for further investigation.
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I recently bought an 05 F250 CC SB. One or more of the bed support rails is rusted and the front one (right behind the cab) is bad enough that I can move the bed up and down with my hand. I've read several threads on a few forums about replacing them and I'm wanting to do it myself.
One other thread I read on this forum (link) gives a pretty straightforward outline of how he successfully did it and even gives dimensions for the rails he made. I'm thinking of doing pretty much the same thing, but he didn't mention the gauge/thickness of metal that he used. I read about the Dorman replacement kit, but they don't mention gauge either.
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How to replace the parking brake cable from the pedal down to the connector on the frame? We got a 2000 F350 in the shop with a bad cable, and i never did one. And I don't really want to mess this thing up trying to figure out how to change it.
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I need to replace the gear oil in the rear differential on my Ford F -350 and was wondering what the best sealer to use.
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I am looking to replace the carrier bearing and (u joints while I'm in there) on my 08 F-250. I do not have access to a lift so this will be done while on the ground. Am I asking for trouble by doing this on my back?
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It is about time to replace the shocks on my truck but I am going back and forth between shocks... I have 37s and the ride is rough to say the least I am looking for something to make it feel like I am not riding around on a jack hammer every time I hit a rock.
Dual set up in the front and single in the back and I have steering stabilizers installed.
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