Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Replacing Rear Block - Axle Won't Separate From Leaf Springs?
Jul 1, 2013
I decided to go ahead and do a rear block replacement. I'm going to install the Ready lift 4 inch blocks.
I have both u bolts and nuts off of both sides. Rear stabilizer bar disconnected and both shocks disconnected. However, when I raise the rear of the truck, the axle raises as well. What could be holding it on still? I noticed there's a nut in the middle of the leaf springs. Do I take that nut off? I just don't know what could be keeping it from separating.
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I have a 99 SD 250 diesel, I also have a broken rear leaf spring. My truck has a 3 1/2 in. block between axle and leaf. My question is this. Can I remove the block and install 4" lift leaf springs without messing up my pinion angle? The blocks look square. But someone toldme once they are made to a specific angle for rotating pinion for better u joint alignment. Sounds like it could be true.
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This is my dads f250 build date of 9/03. I know these wheels are not the factory xl wheels. I also think they changed something with the wheel back spacing somewhere around this time. He is running 285/70/17 bfgs and is rubbing the leaf springs pretty good. He ran this same size on his previous 02 model with no rubbing. Can he get away with 1/4 spacers? What years these wheels are from? And the backspacing differences, if any. His 02 had the chrome large bullet hole style wheels.
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As the title says are my front leaf springs bad? I got this truck 2 years ago and replaced all the ball joints, shocks, sway bar links,front hubs, rotors and brakes along with all the seals. I have a clunk in the front and I can't figure out what it's coming from. Could my leaf springs be clacking together? Truck
is a 2000 F250 SD v10.....
Driverside front
Rear spring
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I have a 2000 F350 that was once a work horse. Its now just my daily. The leaf springs in the rear have 2 broken on each on and the front need to be replaced due to 344K miles on them too. My question is how do I soften up my ride on leaf springs though? Theres a local shop that will do the work, but my rears have 7 leafs / front 2. It used to tow daily but I dont tow anything with it. could I go to 5 in the rear to soften it?
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I just put some toyo at2 295.75.16. On my 04 250. And I've got some rubbing on the plastic and front leaf springs. If a 2.5 " spring left will take care of the rubbing or will I need wheel spacers.
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I got an 03 f250 with a 10 inch lift on 40x14.50 tires on 20x10 fuel hostage wheels. They rub my springs pretty bad when trying to make even the slightest kind of tight turn and the sound they make when they rub is even worse than them actually rubbing. My question is should i stay with this tire and wheel setup and try to get some 6061 billet aluminum 2 inch spacers? (I'm not sure about going that route though because of what i heard about spacers) or go down to some 38s with a 20x14 wheel that hopefully would push the tire away from the hub like spacers would do. I'm leaning more towards going to 38s because of the rubbing and also because I feel they might look better on the 10 inch lift rather than the 40s but dont know whats the best thing to do.
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What is the width between the spring perches on leaf sprung 99-04 front axle. I searched and cant seem to find a dimension listed anywhere. i tried the dana60 bible on the pirate site as well, but it doesn't list the spring perch dimensions, only for the pre 99 styles
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I tried to replace the rear spring bushing of the drivers side front leaf spring.
Got the nutz off the shackle... The lower bolt was bumping into the front drive shaft and would not come out all the way.
Biggest problem I was having seemed to be I could not get the axle to drop far enough to release the pressure on the bolts in the shackle.
NOTE: I was trying to do this without unbolting the U-Bolts from the axle.
I was under the impression you could do this without unbolting the u-bolts. I have all new hyperflex suspension bushings and would like to get them on.
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Where I can get or have a speed nut for the front eye bolt of the right rear leaf spring? If you do I'll gladly send you some cash for it and to cover shipping it. It's supposed to rain pretty much all week here and I really don't want to go to a junkyard. I have checked ford parts and nothing there you can get the hanger that attaches to the frame that the spring bolts to but not the speed nut or bolt only need the speed nut though. Truck is an 2004 f-250 so 1999-04 will work and 05 to 07 is setup the same in the rear but I don't know if they are the same size bolt since they made the frame heavier. I have no idea after 07 when they made the springs longer.
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I would like to add rear overload leaves to my 2016 F250 that for some reason I didn't order with the camper prep package. From what my internet research tells me I will need to add the frame tabs and rubber bumpers, the overload leaves themselves, and of course longer U bolts.
My question is, in all of the pictures I can find, there in an intermediate spacer block between the regular leaf pack and the overload leaf. I can find a part number for this block ( 2C3Z-5594-AA ) only for 2002-2007 trucks. The parts diagrams I've seen online at various Ford sites don't list a part number for this block on current model trucks. Most just give a single part number for the whole leaf pack.
For 2014-2016 F250 with the camper package, or an F350 know what part numbers I might be looking for? Do the newer model year trucks still use an intermediate spacer block? Any chance someone with one of the aforementioned vehicles can post a picture of what the overload leaf setup looks like on a new(er) truck?
I would assume if you snap an overload leaf you can get a replacement from Ford, so why can't I find a part number for them either? I'm pretty sure I will have overloads built at a local spring shop anyway, but at least want to make sure I'm matching the correct and current factory setup.
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I am replacing the ball joints on my 07 f250 4x4. got down to the removal of the shaft itself and it won't budge. What is the secret here. Have to go to work on monday, and the weather in Cleveland isn't going to be very good on Sunday.
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It seems that every time I put the truck into 4 low, the rear axle locks up. When turning, one tire skips no difference which way I turn. When doing this, I do not have the front hubs locked. Also noticed that when turning in 2wd one tire will spin w/o other locking up. I have spun the tire enough for the L/S to catch, but hasn't. I have heard that the locker was not available until years later. Is this true?
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I need to replace the gear oil in the rear differential on my Ford F -350 and was wondering what the best sealer to use.
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What exactly does the sensor on the rear axle do? 08' f350. I know it's a speed sensor of some sort, but what does it do or control exactly.
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Just got done rotating my tires on my 16 F250 ccsb 4x4 and I used jack stands on my rear axle while I used the jack on the front axle. When I brought the truck down off the jack stands (first time using jack stands on this truck) I saw that they left little marks/divits on the rear axle. I had them between the wheel and the shock support and I can feel with my finger where the jack stand was supporting the truck. It doesn't seem anything major but I can surely point out to you exactly where the axle and the jack stand met. I'm sure this is a non issue but just wanted to check in here to make sure...
No trailer attached (of course!) And nothing in the bed with a full tank of gas...so basically just the weight of the truck...
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I'm trying to find to rear axle ratio on my 2001 F-350 dually and the axle code seems to be missing.
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Put new backing plates, parking brake shoes, springs, etc on my 2004 F350 DRW 4x4. Replaced the inner hub seals and axle o-ring. Filled with Ford Rear end lube and went for a test drive. All was well. Went out last night to take her out again and I've got diff lube running out of both sides on the inside of the rims. Did Ford sell me the wrong seals? Could I have installed the seals wrong? Ford seal part number is 4C3Z1S177A. Axle is a Dana 80, confirmed by reading the tag on the diff.
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My truck is a 2008 F250 6.4 Powerstroke 4x4 King Ranch, CrewCab, Shortbed.
I don't know which rear axle ratio it has - maybe someone can help me. the tires mounted are 275/60R17 and in fifth gear (TC locked) the engine has 2000rpm @ 70mph. I think it is a bit to much so I want to install a kit with and lower ratio. I pull trailers just sometimes and here in germany these only have 3,5tons max weight. So I think I don't need this power at 70mph. 1750rpm would be enough. How do I have to modify the front axle ratio if I get a lower-ratio-rear-axle?
I want to lower the fuel consumption. After some modifications, the truck needs round about 12-13L/100km (18-20mpg) and I think it is possible to lower this as bit.
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I was looking underneath the truck yesterday and saw that the rear end pinion seal was leaking. Looked like it had been for a while. Truck has 35,850 miles on it. Unscrewed the fill plug and a lot of pressure is released. So I'm assuming the breather is clogged somewhere along the line. I have an appointment at the dealer on Friday to see whats wrong. What is supposed to be at the end of the breather tube? Mine has a barbed 45ish degree fitting on the end of it. Its a SRW by the way.
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I have a 2008 f-250 2 days ago all light stopped work except the head lights found a blown fuse replaced with a new fuse and now all the lights work except the right rear brake and signal but the running light works so i know its getting power looked at the wireing and it all looked good to me oh ya pulled my trailer in and same thing everything worked but the right brake and signal ....
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