Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Reduced Engine Power And Code P0088 Popped Up
Aug 2, 2017
I have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
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I just picked up a 2012 F350 lariat with about 65 000 miles on it, and while driving home, it popped up with reduced engine power on my screen. Tried adding DEF fluid, seems to right up to the top already, no actual change in engine performance either. Also, no check engine light or service light on (wrench light)....never run across this before and am totally thrown off. Haven't taken to dealer yet...
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So I'm not sure if I bought a lemon, but i picked up a F-350 6.4 Turbo Diesel two days ago and the check engine light came on yesterday. It's giving me a P0088 Code as well as the P0088pd. It's got 131,000 miles on it so no warranty will cover me.
I'm tracking the TSB put out telling the techs to replace the HPFP, but they mention a loss of power. I've only had the truck for two days, but I've driven them for work before and I can't detect any loss of power. Besides the code, everything seems to be running fine.
What can I can try out before running out and changing the HPFP? I'd rather not cut so deep into my savings if I don't have to.
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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I have a 2008 6.4 powerstoke with 162,000 miles. It went into reduced engine power , so i had a sct x4 tuner with cold air intake and dpf delete installed. i just picked it up and it is smoking at initial start up. Is this somewhat normal...
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I had my fuel filters changed at the dealership today on my '15, and then I bought fuel and headed home (70 miles). About half way home I got a "Low Fuel Pressure" message and a little while after that "Reduced Engine Power" along with the check engine light.
I pulled over to see if they did something like leave the drain open, thinking it might be sucking air. Of course it was dark and I could not see anything. However I did hear a buzzing sound and could feel a vibration when I touched the fuel line going into the top of engine filter.
While it is possible I got bad fuel, I suspect they did something wrong installing the filters. Even after cycling the fuel pump multiple times they had a hard time getting it started afterwards; I think they finally disconnected the top fuel line to bleed the air out.
I continued home and made it, but not sure what to do now; its 70 miles back to the dealer.
What is the most likely problem? Improper fuel filter installation or bad fuel?
Should I pull the filters in the morning see if there is something obvious like an out-of-place gasket? If so, top or bottom filter?
Is this a tow truck affair or should I drive 70 miles back to the dealer?
What the heck is the buzzing sound?
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I have a 2010 6.4L turbo diesel. Without a trailer on a mtn incline I have no issues. She will fly up the hill and she is quiet when I'm not pulling the 10,000 Lb trailer. When pulling the trailer, I have a loud howling noise and reduced performance. I had it at the Dealership and I had them check the engine/turbo and they found no problems? I asked if they tested under load and they said yes?? Someone suggested that the "Waste gate valve" was defective.
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This is the third time my TMPS light and "Low Tire Pressure" message have popped on... I have checked all (4) tires and they are still exactly where I had them inflated several weeks back when I went through this the last time. What the threshold pressure is to set the TMPS warning off? I do run about 10psi lower than the door sticker because the door sticker pressure was too much and wearing the center of my rear tires... I just find it odd and frustrating that there are no problems for a period of time, and then all of a sudden I have to go through and over-inflate the tires for a few miles for the TPMS sensors to reset and clear the light, and then drop back down to where I need them for proper tire wear and it seems OK for weeks, and now here we go again
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My 1999 super duty v10 has thrown a code but my scanner and a mechanics scanner won't power up and read the code, I also noticed that the cigarette lighter is dead. Which fuse controls both the plug and the lighter?
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I've got a 2004 f250 4x4 crew cab that is driving me nuts. It runs great, but sporadically it will just quit running. Tach drops to zero. Engine is still turning, because it usually restarts by itself as long as I am moving over about 45. If not I can pull over, put it in park and restart it. Sometimes it sets codes, never the same ones and usually not something even related to the problem (transfer case solenoid for example). Most times it doesn't set any codes. I have changed the plugs and coil packs on all cylinders. Right now it is showing the P1000 code so I am suspicious of the pcm or the wiring to it. I think the tach is the only thing dropping out on the instruments and all the instruments are powered through the pcm.
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2000 F250 4x4 V10... I am getting code P1633, no power to Keep Alive Memory
Here are the symptoms...
First, the voltmeter shows under 10 volts. When this happens, the check engine light comes on and throws code P1633.
Also, I can't shift out of park for some reason when the voltmeter shows under 10 volts.
Also, when I apply the brake, the voltmeter drops completely, no other functions seem to affect it other than applying the brake. I know this is related to the shift interlock which could have something to do with not sensing the brake is applied and won't come out of park.
What I've checked so far:
Battery has good voltage
Alternator is charging
Fuse to PCM shows good voltage
Fuses to voltmeter and shift interlock show good voltage
All grounds I've found are good
The one problem I have found is there is no power to pin 55 to PCM, Keep alive power circuit.
So, I am trying to figure out where the voltmeter gets it's signal from after the fuse box under the dash or where it is grounded, I found the shift interlock ground and it is good.
Would the fact that there is no power to pin 55 cause the voltmeter problem and shift interlock problem? I am tempted to jump power to that pin, but this will not be easy and I don't want to do it if it will just mask the real problem.
Also, when I was first experiencing this problem, the voltmeter would jump around when going over bumps while driving, then it would finally settle under 10 volts. At one time I couldn't drive the truck and kept turning it off then on in hopes it would go back to normal, I applied the parking brake then released it and let it slam up, after that it went back to normal, not sure if the jolt make a connection or what, but I would lean towards a loose connection because of the jumping around of the gauge. Now it's constant though, I messed with a ton of wiring and can't get it to go back to normal. Is there another module that has to do with any of these functions or anything that ties them all together that I am missing?
I am at a loss. I am hoping there are no drive ability issues with this problem, I'll be going on a camping trip in a couple weeks and doubt I'll have it fixed by then. I figured out how to get it out of park bypassing the shift interlock, so that's not a problem.
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I have a 1999 Motor home has a 6.8L Triton V-10 just had a 100,000 milie tune up to include 10 new titanium spark plugs 3 months later I have this problem While driving the other day I had no power to take small hills. Little neighborhood hills were slowing me to 10 mph. Hoping its was the MAF sensor although it didn't throw a code when it was doing this but a code for PO358. So what's next back to the Ford Dealership for repairs?
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So yesterday I decided to wash my truck and after taking care of that I took it for a short drive and the tranny started acting funny. Check engine light comes on and the code is P0500 . It calls for a VSS but I cant locate it. Also the fact that it did after washing the truck is making me think its a wiring issue... F250 SD 5.4 4x4 ....
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My truck threw a code p1299 last night on my way home from the lake. I was towing on a huge grade and all the sudden my engine temp gauge pegged out on me and check engine light came on. I pulled over and noticed a bunch of coolant had overflown the cap but the engine didn't seem to have over heated. When I restarted the truck the engine temp was immediately normal range. I drove for another 30 min or so and the engine temp started to climb and then come back to normal then climb and stay pegged. I pulled over again and noticed the coolant level was low and coolant had overflown the reservoir. I restarted the truck and once again it was normal. I just drove surface streets the rest of the way with no issue. I suspect blown head gasket. This is a 2003 F-250 6.8L with 100000 miles.
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I'm working on an 05 with a 5.4. I got it with a bad valvetrain noise on the PS, which ended up being a bad cam, and one bad rocker. I changed the bad rocker and any others that showed any wear, the cam, and all 12 lifters on that head.
The truck starts, idles, runs, and drives fine; identical to my own 05. But if I get on it, it has a dead spot around 3-4k rpm, then picks right up again. After a while, I get the p0012 (Variable camshaft timing over-retarded bank 1). After I get it pissed off, the idle gets rough as well and bogs down.
Now I know the cam went it correctly. I used the wedge tool so the phaser never left the timing chain. I marked the chain as well just to be safe, and the phaser only goes on the cam in one position. Also, it idles too nicely, and runs fine under normal acceleration.
Tonight I swapped the VCT solenoids from one side to the other. It took a lot longer to get the code, but finally came up as a freeze frame dtc, and on Bank 1 again, so it's not the solenoid.
So in my mind, all I can think is that the timing chain jumped (which I don't think is likely due to the good running under normal conditions), or the phaser is bad/sticking on Bank 1. I popped off the oil fill tube and the phaser looks fine physically, so I don't think I banged into it somewhere along the line. I also manually excited the Bank 1 solenoid by grounding the purple wire, and it gives my the same rough idle which I get after the p0012.
It looks like the phaser to me. Another mistake I made was not scanning the truck when I first got it. It came right from a repair shop which diagnosed the camshaft, but I would have at least known if they cleared any codes from it.
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I have a 2010 F250 with the V10 and 42000 miles. Lost*power*while pulling a trailer. Couldn't get over 30 mph. Tried turning back home and lost all*power*and would barely idle. Fuel filter good air filter good. Code P0300 came up. Towed it back to the house and then couldn't even get it to idle. Wouldn't throttle up past about 2800 rpm. Cleaned MAF sensor and nothing. Somewhere during all that P0174 code came up and misfire cylinder 10. Cleared codes and they haven't come back. Now when trying to crank, it barely turns over, yet battery is good. Opened air filter cover after getting it to start one time and there was some light smoke coming out. Also while barely keeping it running for a little bit, the catalytic converter on the driver side was fire hot and the other side I could grab with my hand.
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My 2008 f250 6.4l just got out of the shop a week a go new small block and new pistons, throwing #1 constrabution code,map sensor and #1 cil misfire you can hear air come out of the intake, I am guessing valve train or lifter..... other problem two days after the truck throwing the codes i went to take it to the shop and would barely drive floored struggle to go 10mph put it in park rev up normal will go in reverse normal just no power in drive, no transmission codes, had it towed to the diesel shop, mech said might be a fail safe on transmission from the engine codes? it has egr/dfp h&s mini maxx tuner, the truck has 170k on body 11k on new engine before the new block that was put in last week.
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I have a 2009 6.4L F250 with 153k miles on it. Yesterday I drove from downtown Dallas north to McKinney (about 40 miles) and truck was running fine. Left approx. 3 hours later for dinner and the check engine light came on and truck ran very sluggish with hardly any power. Had it checked at auto zone today and got the P040D Exhaust Gas Recirculation temperature A circuit high DTC. I can get the part but not sure if I can replace it myself.
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Traveling cross country & got a check engine light telling me "injector control pressure low". Replaced ICP sensor and injector pressure control regulator. Removed old one and installed the new one.
While looking for one of the nuts that attach the glow plug relay in the valley I found a small round part looks like maybe a valve seat. About 1/2" round with maybe a 1/4" four flute spline in the center. Has an o-ring on one end.
Is this something that followed the old ICPR out and fell off the end when It cleared the mounting hole? It looks like the ICPR would bear against this little thing.
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1999 F350 SD ... Yesterday when goosin it to get on the highway my rig threw up a code quickly and engine temp started to increase. Once temp got in the red, oil pressure got a little figgity. The code was for the ICP(p1212), so I cleaned the plug and made sure coolant and oil were topped. This morning she ran barely over normal temp (stock gauge). This afternoon same thing as yesterday but without the code. When I let off of the accelerator temp goes down. I just got married so I have little funds to throw at a shop.
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