Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rebuilding Turbo - Screeching Noise At Start - Shut Down
Nov 7, 2015
I recently pulled the stock tp38 off. The reason for rebuilding is the turbo started making an awful screeching on start up and shutdown when the compressor is at a low rpm and starts to wobble.
The shaft has 1/2 in and out play with 1/8 in every direction. the compressor has some wear marks but no chips, the turbine has some good chunks missing. from what i can see there are no marks on the housings.
What should i put in it as far as new compressor and turbine/shaft. nothing that requires machining. I am not looking to run more boost or anything, just looking to reduce spool up time if possible. Any specific rebuild kit? what turbine and compressor should I go with?
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Noticed this morning that the truck appears to have a screeching/grinding noise while going straight down the road. If I go a bit of speed and stop the engine and exhaust from revving and making noise and just let it roll I can hear it and hear it better by sticking my head out my window. My engine and 5" straight pipe hide it well while im going though. I think its coming from my front driver side but im not 100% exactly sure. What it could be? I know there are a lot of variables to cover but any ways to check things out? Also! I can hear it slightly while reversing slowly.
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I have an 04 F250 6.0L and for the last month or so when I turn on my AC it makes a high screetching noise but only last for a little bit. Had a friend that works on cars on the side take a look at it one day and he said it was the AC cutch trying to engage. Does this sound like what it could be? Also if it is can it be changed out without having to remove the compressor? What all is involved in changing it out?
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Trying to find a bit of information for my dad. He has a 2008 F250 with the 6.4L PS. It recently started making this horrible screech on his initial take off from park. After he let's off the gas and brakes, the truck won't make this noise again for the rest of the time it's on. He ended up replacing the turbo, and that did not resolve the issue. I believe the Y pipe was checked and it was fine. What it could be that would cause it only on the first acceleration?
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I have a 2003 6.0l did a rebuild on it. Got it all back together runs ok, but the turbo is making noise. I can unplug the actuator and the noise stops. How can I check the actuator. now the noise is of course when it is running.. but unplugged the noise stops.
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I normally just troll the existing threads and find what I need, but I am stumped. Just had the HPOP replaced and ran fine for 2 months. Then I started getting a hot no start. So it sat for a couple of days. Then I went to pull it in the shop, it started, I backed up 10 ft and it shut off. I started it back up and it died. I am going to hook it up and figure out my AE software tonight. So question, can an IPR valve get clogged after the fact? Or could it be a bad HPOP?
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My 2006 6.0 shut off immediatEly after starting this morning and never started back up. I have a scan Guage 2 hooked up. I'm showing no ficm voltage and no sync even when cranking. I physically checked the ficm voltage with a dvm at the screw to the far right on the ficm, and I have 48 volts. Why do I have 48 volts at the ficm, but 0 volts showing on my scan guage? And no sync when cranking?
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I have a 2002 F250 super duty 5.4 XLT 4x4. I got home turned it off went to move it and it cranks but won't start. I sprayed brake cleaner in the intake and it started for a few seconds, back fired then shut off. Where is the fuel pump relay? Or how can I power the pump to test it? All the fuses are good, I swapped the relays under the hood with each other and still nothing. The fuel pump shut off switch is not tripped. Is their a way to test it?
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Ok truck shut down wouldn't start back. Put fuel filter o. Frame cranks but won't start. Was told has high pressure oil leak in engine?
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While driving up hill at 60mph the truck lost power. Rpm jumped up as to change gears as it hit 55mph. Still losing power until it shut off. I tried to restart and just got a click from the solenoid. No engine codes whatsoever. Battery had 12.1 volts but when turning the key to start in getting 8 volts. Had it towed home. Today I swapped batteries with my other truck and same click noise from solenoid. All lights, radio, ect still work. Where should I start? Alternator, fuses...?? 2008 f250 5.4 ...
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So I'll be driving down the road and the gauges will randomly start jumping around then the truck will just shut off, this just started a couple days ago, it seems to be gaining in frequency, when i try and restart the engine all my warning lights flash on and nothing happens, try again and it starts back up, now the last time it happened all of the above happened but it was followed by a fast clicking noise from under the steering column, it has to be a electrical issue as i have full tanks and motor is in tip top shape. Also no codes pop up with my code reader.
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My F450 2010 class C motor home has the V10 engine. In the RPM range of about 2200 - 2300, there is a screeching sound I believe is from the engine area. It does not matter what transmission gear I'm in thus the vehicle speed is not a factor - only happens in that engine RPM range. Seems to happen when slowly accelerating or decelerating through the 2200 - 2300 RPM range or continues to screech if I maintain that RPM. If I drop back or increase RPM out of the range it quits. If I accelerate thru the range a little quicker it doesn't happen. Also does not happen when parked and the engine is sped up.
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I bought a 2004 excursion 4wd 6.0 EB Excursion a few weeks ago and I noticed it making clicking noises after I shut the engine off yesterday.
Its been throwing codes P0683 and P0404 intermittently. (they clear themselves after a day or so and dont reappear for another three or four days)
[URL] .....
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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After 225,000 miles, my turbo appears to have failed -- not spinning. This is a stock turbo that is unaltered. Yes, I change my oil and filter every 3000 miles.
My question is; what is a reliable after-market replacement part that will bolt up?
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I have a 2006 6.0, edge programmer, and egr delete. I had the hpop replaced back in July. I have a straight piped exhaust system as well. I have always noticed a loud whistle at idle from the turbo but yesterday when I started it there was not whistle at all. When I drove it it would still build boost but not like it used to. I have to really get on the throttle to build boost like it should. Is it my turbo going bad?
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A friend has a 2000 Super Duty 7.3L Diesel Power Stroke. 300,000 miles and having an oil leak around top of engine near turbo. It's losing oil at a rate of half a quart every two days. Driver says that engine lacks power. Is it time to replace turbo? What else should I look for concerning the oil leak. Also, what else should be replaced/inspected while replacing turbo?
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Got a 2006 6.0 won't build turbo pressure had to previous codes a p0098 and a p0405 I replaced the egr valve and the mafs codes went away but still no boost
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Why am I getting oil seeping out around these boots? Is my turbo seals going bad?
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Just bought a 1999 7.3 f250 w/71000 miles and took it to a diesel guy and under load he said that the whistling was normal..is this correct?
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I have a 2005 6.0 with 279k running pretty strong. I met a mechanic that has the same year truck with 700K!! He showed me one of his mods and he used a longer line on his windshield wiper fluid and put a Tee Connector on the line and ran it into his intake for the turbo. He said he will use it when cruising along sparingly but it cleans his turbo and such. Is this a water injection hack?
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