Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear Wheel Bearing Making Noise
May 18, 2015
Have a rear wheel bearing making some noise. A friend told me that it is always the outer bearing that goes first . Can you replace the bearing without replacing the race?
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99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
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Replacing the backing plates on my rear end, figure get new inner bearings and seals in there. Bearings seem fine but cheap insurance, dont wanna pull it all off again.
When i pulled my hub off, the hub seal stayed on the housing shaft, this is normal? Just gotta pry it off there somehow?
Then new seal-TIMKEN 370247A just tap it into the back of the hub? Also is this the right inner bearings? TIMKEN NP114036
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2002 F250 4 wheel drive manual hubs, 7.3....
My first thought was to have the tires rebalanced and rotated to see if it is tire noise? I am hearing damage on top of the noise from the 7.3, hard to be sure!
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I have a really loud whining kind of noise found that its the wheel seal rubbing on the inner part of the wheel bearing. I was just curious if its safe to drive with the spindle removed from the axle?
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My front driver side wheel is making a clunk noise when I hit a bump. I replaced the wheel bearing hub assembly and discovered both axle seals were bad.
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How can you tell when your wheel bearing/hub assembly is going bad? I am hearing what sounds like "metal-on-metal" and I've already changed the brake pads, but the sound still persists. I was thinking about changing out the brake rotors since I did notice an inch long score on the rotor when I was replacing the pads. I don't want to spend a couple hundred dollars on rotors to find out it was my wheel bearing/hub assembly all along.
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I have a 2000 F-250 SUperduty with a dana 50 front end , and as most of you know the front hub bearing's are junk, and expensive to replace. I know dynatrac has a kit to convert it to the tapered, cheaper, servicable bearing's. But 2g is a lil out of my price range. I was curious if anybody has tried takin the knuckles and stub shafts off an older dana 60 and putting the knucke's on the front axle to get the older bearing style instead of the hub bearing and the actuall lock outs instead of the POS vaccum style.
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So I have to replace the front unit bearings on my 2004 f250 4wd. My question is, which thread pattern I have, fine or coarse? I have read that the early models, 99-02 have coarse threads. Afterwards they are fine. I am going to order online as they are cheaper than the local parts store. I have the Timken part numbers for either thread pattern.
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I have a 2008 F250 5.4 4x4 supercab long box (68,000 miles) that has a little bit of movement in the front wheel bearing and hub assemblies. Made it through inspection OK but it will need to be changed soon. Just asking for everyone's thoughts on brands they prefer. I have had great luck with Moog brand products in the past. I put SKF hubs on my wife's 2010 Explorer and they I would say are top quality also. Not interested in a conversion kit or cheap junk. I want a good quality unit. What brand has everyone had good results with? Are Moog or SKF the way to go?
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Well, I've been meaning to get to servicing/re-greasing the front hubs/bearings for a while but somehow it keeps getting moved down the list.
2000 F250SD 4X4 Gas Manual Hubs+Trans
I'm currently going through the many threads that turned up in my search query.
Driving slow with the windows down it seems like a low whine or squeal coming from the left front. Tone changes when working the steering wheel left and right. Haven't detected any grinding sounds. Any other techniques for isolating the problem? It's going up on jack stands tonight and I'm going to see if there is any wobble from the front wheels and I'll listen as I turn each of the front wheels. Oddly, the right front hub is hard to turn. Left front turns easy.
Viewed Rob259956's videos on servicing the hubs. Currently researching accessing the wheel bearings. It seems pretty straightforward. Truck has been off road but not mud bogged or anything like that. I'm guessing a bad bearing will be easy to identify as will a bad o-ring but any other stuff I should look closely at?
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I have a 2003 F350 srw 6.0. 4x4. Front driver side wheel bearing went out. Went to the auto parts store got a replacement. Got it all tore apart, put the new one on and the lockout didn't seem to fit right. Is there a difference in wheel bearing assemblies for electronic shift on the fly and regular lockout? I have the electronic shift on the fly lockouts and it had just a little bit of play in it when I put the snap ring back in.
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I am needing to replace the front hub wheel bearing assemblies on my 03 F250 4x4. I know Ford changed the studs from coarse thread to fine thread in between the 02 and 03 model years. Mine has a build date of 08/02 and I haven't been able to find the exact date they switched over. I'm ordering the parts online and want to get it right the first time.
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I am working on my Dads 01 super duty with a 5.4, automatic, and the pinion bearing has seized up due to a lack of fluid from a rusted out rear diff cover. The tag on the diff cover had a 10.5 stamped on it and has 12 bolts. Is this known as a ford 10.5"
I have changed gears and pinion bearings in a Dana 70 before is this the same process? What are part numbers for a new pinion bearing and seal? Gears are in fine shape.
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I have a 2001 F350 with a 7.3 diesel and automatic trans. I purchased it about 100,000 miles ago. It is all stock as far as I know. The mileage on it was about 14-15 on the road and I decided to put a chip in it. I was somewhat leary of putting too much power to this old of a rig. I put a TS Performance chip in it. It seems to have more power. I am towing a 30 ft. Gulfstream Seahawk I think around 10,000 lbs. When I started up a hill it made a different noise like a screeching noise when I pushed it. When I back off a bit the noise goes away. When I put it back to stock setting the noise is not there just the normal downshift and increased RPM. Not sure how to describe the noise but sounds like a metal bearing type noise. I get the same rush of air or what ever that sound is when it changes back to a higher gear. Is this sound normal or what might it be. It sounds normal when not pressing it.
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I have read the older posts here on the super duty ford 4x4 system. At 60,000 miles I noticed what sounds like a gear or bearing noise, or even a whining noise like you would hear from mud grip tires, coming from the front end area, while driving back from Kentucky to Georgia. I have quiet running street tires on this pickup.
I have a 2004 F350 crew cab XL, automatic, 4x4, limited slip axles, 430 gearing and a V10. This truck has always been extremely quiet on the highway. This noise I described above has increased and the truck now has 70,000 miles. I have the factory 4x4 dash switch in my truck cab for the 4x4 engagement. I always thought the dash switch engaged and disengaged the transfer case, and locked or unlocked the automatic hubs.
The service guy at the dealer now tells me that the dash switch only locks and unlocks the front hubs, and the front drive shaft and front differential are engaged full time. So, after checking my tires for defects, and for any play or bearing noise in my wheel bearings, I am looking at pulling the drive shaft out keep the front differential from turning, to determine if I have a bad bearing in the front axle assembly.
Now I read some of the posts here, and they say that with the dash switch in "2 wheel drive", the transfer case should be disengaged and the front drive shaft and front axle should not be turning at all. What is turning up front with the 4x4 disengaged on the dash switch ? I'm afraid to drive my truck out of town now and I need to isolate this issue and get it repaired. This has been a great truck and it's very reliable.
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I have a 2001 f250 v-10 4wd with 117,000 miles. I just replaced drivers side front hub bearing assy and not sure if it's the new bearing or what but now I keep hearing this crazy noise from suspension area. It has had bangs and pops for a while now. It almost sounds like abs motor going off but louder. Does it going slow fast or whatever. Brakes on or off. Trucks ball joints were done about two months ago and new shocks, trac bar replaced this summer only thing not done was tie rod ends and all bushings. Brakes are good new rotors and pads this summer also. It's like taking two inflated balloons and rub them together real fast. It may be the timken bearing maybe bad from get go.
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My truck had devolped a whine/howl over the past coulple hundred miles. I thought it was a wheel bearing failing me. So yesterday I pulled it into the shop and jacked up the front end. Everthing checked out fine so I jacked up the rear end, started it up, put it in gear and to my surprise the noise was from the rear end.
I pulled the rear end apart and found the front pinion bearing had a defect in the race and the rollers were starting to pit out causing the noise and harshness when turning it. The truck has 130k, seal wasnt leaking and fluid looked/smelled normal. I think it was a legitimate defect not from abuse or lack of maintenance.
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I have a 2003 6.0l did a rebuild on it. Got it all back together runs ok, but the turbo is making noise. I can unplug the actuator and the noise stops. How can I check the actuator. now the noise is of course when it is running.. but unplugged the noise stops.
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So when my hubs are locked they make a popping noise. Not when I'm turning like a 4wd would but all the time. And then when I turn on my ESOF in the cab something makes a horrendous noise like its binding up really bad. When I unlock my hubs and turn off my ESOF it all goes away. My 4wd does not engage without the hubs locked. I have the warn standard manual hubs. I'm not sure how to check to see what's messed up.
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I bought a 2000 F250 V10 Super Cab. Oddly after a few weeks it has grown on me. There has been a clunking noise out of the right front over bumps. I traced it to a bad axle bearing. The u joint moves up and down about a 1/2 inch. Besides pulling the hub/bearing assembly out and removing the axle are there any surprises getting the old bearing out?
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