Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear End Chatter In Reverse - Damage In Gear Head?
Feb 9, 2014
Ok, I've seen a post or two about this issue of rear end chatter on the super duty But not that many so I am going to ask a question here and now......what causes/allows this to happen and what purpose does it serve? also, does it cause any damage to the gear head? or any other part of the rear end?
My truck tends to do this from time to time when I am plowing snow (only when backing up, or at least so far) and I really can't relate it to condition other than maybe the fact that pushing snow may cause the gear oil to get hotter than normal driving and thins out and causes this?
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2003 in sig. when going around corners slow I can feel and hear a chatter or vibration coming from what I think is the rear end. I am running amsoil 75/140 in it and added some friction modifier. Do my clutches are shot and making noise or do I need to add more friction modifier ?
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I have a 2016 F350 super cab and I can't figure out how to remove the rear head rest. Short of taking out my sawsall and cutting them off. How to get them off...
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my truck at 210k miles got a new radiator (seeping at seams), thermostat, water pump (bearings shot, leaking), intake manifold (The crossover was leaking). It now has 227k miles. Oil leak in rear at head gasket by starter (bad head gasket?) It overheated the other day( blowing coolant out the expansion tank needle in the red) Replaced thermostat. Drove around for two full hours, seemed fine, Drove to work today it overheated ( same thing, blowing coolant needle pegged) didn't make it to work. There are no external leaks and its not putting steam or white smoke out the exhaust. I read somewhere that a blown head gasket could make the truck overheat, is that possible? What all could cause this problem?
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So I've put about 1000 miles on my 03 F250 since buying it, and just the other day it's started leaking from the rear of the passenger head gasket. Enough to drip on the driveway and exhaust, and have some exhaust smell. 126,000 miles, 5.4
I've checked with my local ford dealer, and It also needs passenger exhaust manifold and studs, so the dealer price to tack that on would be a whole lot more too since there are already a couple studs broke. It would be best to get it done when the head is pulled.
I've checked with several local mechanics, and none of them are interested in pulling the head on this engine. That has me concerned about doing it myself too..especially since it fits in my garage with only a few inches to spare..
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Drove the wife to work this morning. The turn off into town there was a lady stuck so I pulled over in the drifts. After putting in back in gear I had to get on it to get out of the drifts. Snow was blowing over the windshield, and I imagine throughout the engine bay.
After that it felt like it stayed in 2/3rd gear. I'd hit the pedal and it would redline and sort of accelerate jumping in and out of gears. So i slowed down to a stop. Accelerated slow and it was ok but when I got more on the pedal it would feel like it was slipping. Once I got in the driveway, she idled for about 15 mins while I shoveled out my spot. Once putting in gear again I had to rev it up for it to move.
Also reverse, had to rev it up to move it.
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I installed a reverse camera to my new Pioneer in-dash nav head unit this morning. I wired (at the rear of the truck) the power signal lead to the reverse wire at the trailer connector. I also need to wire a reverse signal input into the back of the head unit. I really do not want to run a power lead from the rear of the truck to the cab. Is there a wire under the dash I can tap into, or could I use the wire going to the backup alarm that’s somewhere under the dash (if I can find it). 2010 F350 deisel, crew cab, 4WD, long bed.
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I have a 2000 F-550 w/7.3 and a 6 speed ZF transmission. My problem is that when you go to shift into any gear inc. reverse the transmission stays in 5th gear. I pulled the shifter and tried to do it from top of transmission it still stays in 5th. Any thoughts that I could possibly check?
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I have been having some brake chatter for awhile now. I have changed pads, changed rotors, rebuilt both front calipers, flushed all my brake fluid, and made sure my slide pins were good and free. I have noticed some weird wear on the new front rotors and was wondering if it was normal or not. On a different note, I am having to replace my parking brake pads. When I had the axle out I looked in and saw a bunch of gunk.
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My 2001 F250 5.4 has started to make a screeching sound. It only happens when it is in gear (auto) moving forwards or in reverse, and increases in pitch relative to engine speed rather than road speed, and is much more noticeable under mild to moderate acceleration. Maybe I actually mean transmission input speed?
When simply maintaining road speed, it is almost silent. Anyway, if I drop it into neutral while driving, the sound stops, and starts again when I put it back into gear.
From the drivers seat and with the windows closed, it sounds as though it is coming from the engine bay at steering column height, although this is really tough to gauge while actually looking where I am going. With windows open, it comes from both sides of the vehicle.
1st thought is tranny......
2nd thought is a water pump bearing, although there are no apparent cooling problems or leaks.
3rd thought is the alternator bearing, although there are no charging problems.
I say alternator because I recently changed the serpentine belt and noticed that the alternator made a very faint screech-like sound when spun without the belt on it. The main screech was there before I changed the belt. Maybe it gets really loud under load?
So I'm kinda scratching my bean and wondering what expensive piece of mechanics I'm going to shell out for next. If it's #2 or #3, I can do those myself, but if it's #1.... it likely means more money than I have to spare.
I did wonder about removing the serpentine belt and driving a very short distance (end of the driveway and back) to see if I can remove the pulleys, tensioner or other belt driven parts from the equation. Maybe this is not such a smart idea. I'm somewhat at a loss right now.
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I have been having trouble with my 2008 Ford F250 4x4, 6.4 liter diesel transmission. SCT tuner, 10" lift, egg delete and dp delete has been done. I have been losing power mainly in reverse but have noticed that the transmission hasn't always been going into the last gear on the interstate. Code PO741 would come up. The other day the shifter was stuck. So I played with it and found that the cable on the transmission had fallen off. After replacing it. The transmission wouldn't go into reverse but has been doing semi good in forward. Well I have been limping it around until today when I was going down the road and it completely stopped pulling. Now no matter what gear I place it in, it will on go in reverse. What could be causing these issues or where to even begin to start looking?
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I need to replace the gear oil in the rear differential on my Ford F -350 and was wondering what the best sealer to use.
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Installing a back up camera and need to locate reverse lights on driver's side at rear bumper. What color wire is for the reverse lights on a 2003 F-350 (truck in my sig)?
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I have a 2006 f-250 with 5.4L 3valve engine. I was worried about my variable valve timing system because my engine sounds pretty rough and I hear a lot of valve chatter. I know that low oil pressure can be a big problem on these engines. Here is a pic of my oil pressure gauge. This was taken while the truck was warm while parked.
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I have a ford f350 2014 that had some water damage, the clockspring suffered water damage so I replaced it along with the steering column module.
The clockspring was brand new from ford, already centered, I pulled out the plastic tab during install.
Cluster has SERVICE ADVANCETRAC error and IDS is shows fault with the steering angle sensor. (see picture)
Do these new sensors have to be reset and calibrated to work, or does this FAULT message on IDS indicate a wiring problem?
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I replaced the steering gear box in my 06 F250 CCLB 6.8 over the weekend with a reman Cardone. The old gear box had what I can best describe as a chatter/binding if you rocked the wheel back and forth, that's gone now. I sucked out as much fluid as I could, then filled the reservoir several times while the fluid ran out, what came out was very cloudy and gritty, guessing the old box was chewing itself up.
Can't seem to find a straight answer - what fluid SHOULD this have in it?
Sounds like I should have used Mercon, looks like I grabbed Type F instead. Could that cause the steering effort to be extremely light? I mean like ridiculously light, tip of your pinkie barely touching and turning the wheel light?
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how difficult is a in frame head gasket repair?
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Back Story: Ok so in my infinite wisdom I let myself get distracted when I was looking at an 01 F250 V10 Crew Cab. I thought, it needed all new breaks/rotor & 2 calipers. And new carpet and seats, then I would have a good hunting rig.
So I went and looked at the truck in the dark (first mistake). The guy was very honest with me and told me about all the body and interior issues. Even informed me of the caliper that he disconnected because he could not afford to fix it. He informed me that it did burn a little oil and it's been a while since he checked the oil. Well at that point I was going to look under the oil cap to check for any milky residue. Well I got distracted (Second Mistake).
So here we are 2 weeks after getting bringing the truck home. I already replaced the carpet and seats, breaks & rotor & 2 calipers. Well today I decided to go get some new oil and a filter, and do a quick oil change since who knows when it was done last.
Issue:While draining the Oil it seemed like there was an abnormally large amount of oil in this engine. (See photo of bucket full of oil from this rig.) Well didn't think much of it and swapped the filter. And went to add new oil to the engine and found that under the cap was some milky substance.
The V10 has 420K original miles. I have heard that is no big for the V10 but thought it would be good to note this detail. Questions I have: Should I get some kind of test kit to confirm it's a blown head gasket? If so what kind of Kit should I look for? Do you think this truck is worth replacing the head gasket?
Any chance this may just be a known issue for the V10 and I just need to replace some kind of valve? I could not find any you tube videos of a head gasket replacement on a V10 any thoughts where I should look?
My Skills: Just to be clear I don't know anything about the V10 motor. I have a 94 f-250 but have never had to dive in to a head gasket replacement before. I have done a head gasket replacement on smaller engines (IE: car and a jeep) but those were obvious that they had a bad head gasket.
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I've been trying to figure out what is going on with my '99 F-250 V10, you can check out this thread for the back story
[URL]....
I did a compression check and the results seem inconclusive to me- see image.
Before I did the compression check I started to take the intake manifold off to change the gasket set and it's about 50% done. I'm at a crossroad now. Do you think I should finish switching out the intake gaskets or do you think it's more than likely a head gasket? I would hate to put it back together, it still smoke and have to take the intake and everything else back off to do the head gaskets.
Someone had mentioned a possible small crack in the cylinder wall that is closing up when the engine gets heat in it and obviously doing the intake and cylinder head gaskets would fix it if that's the problem.
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I thought I needed a head kit my truck runs and drives great till I run out of coolant no smoke doesn't get hot I run out of coolant I lose my turbo. Pull over fill it up I'm back to normal I just noticed I have sweat marks on my water pump pulley.
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2001 Ford F250 5.4 gasoline. At the most recent oil change my mechanic said there was an oil leak and he had dyed the new oil and cleaned everything up and to come back in 100 miles.I just did so and he said that it was a leaking head gasket. He said to do the head gasket replacement right or to put in a rebuilt engine would be close to same and he would recommend the replacement. He said it was not a heavy leak and probably ok to drive another 10,000 or so miles first. Just returned from a trip where we drove 15 hours straight (30 degree temps) and the truck ran fine and no overheating.There does not appear to be oil in coolant or vice versa. I took the cap off overflow coolant and cranked and revved and no disturbance whatsoever. I read somewhere where a mechanic was saying it was impossible for this Ford engine to leak oil from a head gasket failure .
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