Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear Door Panels Rattling
May 27, 2008
The rear doors on my super cab rattle like there is no tomorrow. It is the panels rattling. There has been a lot of discussion about the doors and the way they latch being the problem with the typical rattle and cluck doors.
Have to take off the panels to see if they can be dampened in anyway? Where are the fasteners keeping the panel on?
I am about to take the panel off and leave them off. Some days I laugh, some days I cry. My truck has 90K miles on it and they have clanged and banged since day one.
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I've got a 2006 F250 5.4l Super Cab. When I bought the truck the rear interior door trim panels were missing. I tried to order them straight from ford but it turns out they no longer carry them, and I can't seem to find them anywhere online. I've also looked at the salvage yards in my area- nothing. Where I would be able to find these elusive creatures?
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the driver/rear suicide door combo is rubbing at the top and thus rattling on bumps. Looks to me like it is actually from the rear door as the gap in the very back is very wide at the top. the driver door gaps look normal along the front. Before I dig into this I wanted to check and find out the best way to approach. Is there an adjustment inside the hinge? the bolts on the jam look solid and have never been adjusted. Perhaps there is a hinge pin in there?
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My RX 350 is 5 months old, 8000 miles. It has developed very annoying rattling noises under the rear seat and, sometimes, rear door panels.
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My rear cab door pass side decided it wasn't going to open anymore. Tried playing with the lock. Flipper thing and the inside handle with no luck.
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99 F250 Lariat SC 5.4 with 98,980 miles. As the title says, I cannot open the rear drivers door. It seems that the cable has broken.
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Driver's side rear door quit working today - opens about an inch or so. What is the remedy?
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The doors on my 2005 crew cab are leaking water. Its happened once before, I fixed it by resetting the main seal around the doors. Now this tropical storm had them leaking again. The rear doors are leaking from the top and getting the head liner wet, and the front left door is leaking a little bit onto the middle pillar Guage and down onto my leg.
Is it time for new door seals? My 01 has never had this problem so im not entirely sure what to do.
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My right rear supercab door will not stop squeaking/chattering when driving or idle at a stoplight.. I know this is a common problem for these trucks but how do I fix or dr it up?
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I've got a 2008 f-250 extra cab. A small bump will cause the rear driver side door to pop open. What I have to do to fix it, I don't want the grandkids falling out.
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I am quite displeased with the creaking and rattling noises I keep getting from my 2012 3.6 Premium's door panels and dash. I have already had these looked at by a dealership multiple times in the last year or so. Each time they "fix" it, the noises go away for some weeks and always keep coming back in one form or another.
I have an appointment with a different dealership this week. I hope they will be able to fix this for good. However, the noises have really spoiled the experience of this car. I wonder if all Passat's suffer from this issue. Just wanted to vent, don't know how else to let it out of my system
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I have a 2006 Ford F250 super duty kingcab 6.0 with 6 speed manual transmission. It just started making a clattering sound when i let off the gas in 1, 2, 3 gear but not in 4, OD, in Neutral with or without clutch engaged or at idle. U joints and carrier bearing are good. I took it to a mechanic and he said it was the throw out bearing but the sound goes away when clutch is engaged?
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I'm on my second set of links. The replacement were Dorman 3 years ago. They are rattling again. Do I just replace them again? I forgot to add, the bushings were replaced this year.
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All the body bushings have dry rotted away on my 08 Superduty. Are these hard to replace?
I am starting to hear and feel more road noise and rattling when going over bumps or a rough road. U think they would have used polyurethane bushings instead of rubber.
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1999 F250 SD 5.4 with 140k miles. There is a triangular plate with a bolt in the center and and what looks like a bolt in each corner of the plate.
Two of three bolts in the plate are missing and the third is loose allowing the plate to spin freely. Center bolt is tight.
Gotten to the point it's really noisy. Can the bolts be replaced in the plate or should I just go ahead and replace compressor. If bolts are replaceable what size?
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I guess my AC Compressor is about to the bed. AC works good however there is a lot of rattling going on. Been driving it like that for two months plus expecting it to fail.
Just not sure how long I should let it go. If the compressor pully fails on the road I will lose my serpentine belt and the ability to put the spare on and I will be stuck for sure.
2008 F250 XL 5.4L .....
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I have a grinding/Rattling noise coming out of the front area of the transmission when the clutch is disengaged (up), noise stops when clutch is pushed in. 99 (6/98) F-350 7.3, manual, 4x4, 192xxx mi. Just came out of the shop with the following done to it:
New Power Force clutch kit, twice.
Transmission Rebuilt twice.
Different rebuilt transmission.
Rear main seal r/r.
After first time in shop the noise was apparent. about 3,000 miles were driven with no change, brought back to shop, where transmission was gone through again as well as a new clutch set, same noise still present! Another transmission was rebuilt and installed, same noise!!!
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I have an 06 f250 6.0 when I'm driving and let off the throttle and coast I hear a rattling sound like a spray paint can being shaked sounds like its coming from engine compartment.
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My stock 2009 ford f250xl 4x4 with a 5.4 and 6 speed has been giving me a weird sound lately started about a month ago and only happens on a cold start situation meaning if it sits over night it will do the sound. the sound goes away after 3-5 min of warm up in my driveway, the sound happens when i push the clutch pedal to the floor. it has no pronounced abnormal sounds through out the rest of the day when its hot which perplexes me, check out the vid on my u tube site for a sound of it.
MAH00111 - YouTube
MAH00115 - YouTube
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Vehicle: 2002 f250 xlt 7.3 powerstroke reg. Cab
Issue: door ajar light stays on, power locks on driver and passenger door don't work, radio stays on after truck is off an door is opened.
Events leading up to issue: went to temporarily hook up a wolo dixie horn to see if it worked. Wanted to do it fast so I took + cable, tied one end to the battery terminal and then connected other end to dixie horn relay. I then grounded both negative wires to the truck. One ground on the frame the other I temporarily wrapped around a one of factory ground mounts under the dash. Immediately after doing this the problems stated above started.
How can I fix this. I need to fix this by tomorrow. I have a guy from Craigslist coming to look at the truck. Now the 4x4 issue.
Truck has zf6 manual and the electric 4wd select ****. Just thought I'd list this if it was needed to be known for solutions.
4x4 high light stays on in while 2wd all the time. 4 low will stay on after switching back to 4 high and 2wd but it goes out if I ether stop the truck shut it off then restart it. or back up and slam on the brakes. Also when in 4 high the front driveshaft won't spin. However It will spin when in 4 low.
Another random issue I'd thought I'd just list while I'm writing this.... Cruise control does not work. And when I press the "on" button and the "coast" button at the same time the horn honks.
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So the other day i opened the door and heard a super loud clunk noise come from the door and when I turned the car on and pulled hte window down it wouldn't go down all the way, only about 75% of the way so I assumed like BMW cars the window motor died but oddly it continued to go up and down just now 100% down.
Then 3 days later when I came to drive the car again the window went down to the 75% mark and now its jammed there with no movement even if I tried to lift the window up myself. Usually a broken motor allows this to happen but since it isn't budging I am wondering if its an electrical issue with the power window button more than the motor?
I say this because when i try to lower the passenger window from the driver side it works than out of no where on the 3rd time it wont move at all than 5 minutes later it will move or if it doesn't move I just go and pull the window down from the passenger side then I come to the driver side and try it and it works again than it'll stop again. So maybe its the power window control buttons on the drivers side that's failing?
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