Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear End Wobble At 40 - 50 MPH Until Speed Up Or Slow Down?
Jan 29, 2014
Ive had this 2009 F250 4x4 Super Crew, 6.4 for 2 years now. Bought it the way it sits with a 6" ProComp lift and 37" Yokohama Open Countrys. Recently, once I get up to 40-45 mph, the rear end starts vibrating violently until I speed up or slow down. There isn't any clanking noise and it's silent. I look in the mirrors to see if it's the tires but they appear to be rotating smoothly. It's never done this before. It's like a tire is out of balance but it shakes much harder than that should be at that speed. It rides smooth as can be at any other speed all the way up to 80 mph which is the faster than i drive. What this could be? I've done searches but can only find info on the front end death wobble which is not the case here.
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1999 F-350 7.3 Dually 2wd Front End issues. I think I may have several things going on so here goes. Truck has about 130,000 miles on it . Bought it with 60,000 miles in 2009.
It's always worn the front tires weird but it's gotten a lot worse and it's happening in about 10-15 thousand miles now. It's wearing the tires on both sidewalls like under-inflation but I run 70 lbs in them. I've noticed for several years now that it makes a knocking sound and I feel it in the floorboard, shakes in the steering wheel when I turn to the left only in a corner at speed. (65-70) ...
Now it's started intermittently going into the death wobble at slow speeds like the caster is to negative on it. I'm sure it could use some shocks but I just rotated the tires and I felt no play anywhere. I know when we used to get that bumping in the floor board on older Fords it was a bad radius arm bushing but that couldn't be all of what's going on here. I've done searches on this and it has happened to others but I haven't found a resolution from any yet.
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2006 F250 6.0L CC Lariat with Climate Control
- 1st Start in morning, AC Blows cold.
- Run it down the Interstate AC Blows cold.
- Get back into traffic, slow speed, low RPM, AC doesn't cool.
Is this likely the clutch going South or low Freon perhaps? At higher RPMs, 1000+ seems to work good. At idle, when hot, not so much. Just looking for possibilities.
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If I use ATP AT-205 stop leak to stop a slow leak coming from the rear main seal, will it last a long time? And if it stopped working eventually, would adding more stop the leak again?
Also, I'm going to have the transmission out anyway, so how many hours would it probably take to just replace the seal at that point? And someone told me some seals were two halves that fit together as one, and others are just all one piece. Is that true? It would seem to me that a two piece seal like that would start leaking prematurely.
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Ok, so I have been noticing that the rear power window has been slow to close. So today I open it and now it wont close. When I press the button on the dash, I see the cable snap tight and hear the motor turn on so its not a fuse or motor. What I need to replace/fix. I have tried to blow the track out, tried wd40 tried having somebody hold the button while I try to assist it in closing, but none of that worked. It is now half way and wont go any further.
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I'm getting a nasty wobble from about 45mph - 60mph. I'm guessing it's time to start replacing front end components. So far, the only thing I've ever replaced in the front end are the sway bar bushings. I have a new steering gear / box to install; I plan to replace wheel bearings, ball joints and tie rod ends. Is there anything else I should replace while I'm in there?
1999 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans, 150,000 miles....
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I went to have the code read, and it was no signal from the rear ABS speed sensor. I replaced the sensor, and the light is still on. Also my speedo is off a bit. It is reading about 7-10 miles an hour faster than what it should. The mechanic can't seem to find the issue. I have a 06 F250, Powerstroke.
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Where I can get or have a speed nut for the front eye bolt of the right rear leaf spring? If you do I'll gladly send you some cash for it and to cover shipping it. It's supposed to rain pretty much all week here and I really don't want to go to a junkyard. I have checked ford parts and nothing there you can get the hanger that attaches to the frame that the spring bolts to but not the speed nut or bolt only need the speed nut though. Truck is an 2004 f-250 so 1999-04 will work and 05 to 07 is setup the same in the rear but I don't know if they are the same size bolt since they made the frame heavier. I have no idea after 07 when they made the springs longer.
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I recently bought some used rockstar 1s off a buddy, installed new tires, balanced, put tapered lug nuts on and I'm still getting a slight vibration above 40mph. Do I need hub centric rings? XD says no, I think I do.
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My truck has developed a wobble in the steering wheel. I don't mean when you are driving down the road, but the steering wheel wobbles around. It wobbles in any position that the Till shaft is set to. How to repair.
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So I've got a 2000 F350 7.3. Just replaced all the ball joints, sway bar end links, carrier bearing, balanced the tires... a bunch of stuff to try and eradicate this weird wobble I have and I just can't seem to figure out what it is.
The wobble happens at and around 35mph, and then once I break 70mpis on the speedo (I have a 4" lift and am running 35's so it's not actually 70). I've experienced death wobble before in a jeep I had, and it is nothing like that, and I can't see it being driveline related but I could be wrong.
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I have an 09 F350 (116,000 miles) that I have only owned for about 3 months. I got it pretty cheap but it did have a front end issue. Drives fine most of the time but hit a bump just wrong at highway speed and it goes into a shake and wobble that feels like you just blew a front tire. Took it into my shop, not the dealer and was told I pretty much need a front end rebuild. Kinda what I figured I would hear.
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07 f250 has a shimmy from the rear at highway speed. Has new tires is worse with a load. What am I missing here?
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I've got a 2006 F350 5.4L.
The ABS light came on and it was throwing a 'rear speed sensor' code. I searched around and it seemed to be a common issue that the sensor goes bad and needs to be replaced.
I bought a sensor and replaced it, but in doing so, I saw that while the sensor was indeed bad (cracked) the wire right at the connector was corroded.
I replaced the sensor but the ABS light is still on the dash. Is it possible that they code simply needs to be cleared? I was able to read it with my OBD2 dongle and Dash Command App, but maybe I'm not able to clear it?
Or is it more likely that the corroded wire on the connector is the issue? (it wasn't fully corroded and I cleaned it up and sealed it.). It didn't look like I could pull the wires out of the connector, so I assume I'll need a new connector. What is the part number?
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It seems that my 2010 F250 truck has come down with the dreaded death wobble. My truck is stock and has 63k miles. I was driving home today on a 2 lane side road and hit a few bumps that almost put me into the oncoming traffic. That sure did get my attention! I've been ready a lot on this site and wanted some opinions if replacing the stock steering stabilizer would fix my problem.
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I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
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Got the death wobble, had everything replaced. Wobble was worse, upgraded track bar. Then no wobble but bad bump steer. Put on new OEM track bar.
Ok but still if I hit a hole on the interstate I get death wobble and little mini wobbles on any bump. What is the permanent fix for this other than selling the truck?
2011 6.7L FWD Lariat, upgraded exhaust and Def removed.
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Brake issues on 2005 F250. About 3 years ago during vehicle inspection the garage stated I need all for rotors on my F250. I had @40,000 miles at the time. Garage said rotors are a onetime use, no recutting them. So I got all new rotors. Prior to then I never even felt a wobble indicating they were warped. Anyhow now with 15,000 miles on them I have a huge wobble when I get on the brakes and it's 5x pronounced when pulling a trailer. I assume more warped rotors. If so, why? I pull a camper or car trailer maybe 7-10 times a year.
Now currently I am assuming its warped rotors because I have not had it "professionally" checked. I did have one occasion last August pulling the camper where I smelled the brakes being hot. The pedal got soft. After cooling it seemed ok and I flushed the old fluid and put in new. I have about 4100 miles since then and the warped feel just started about a month ago. I hate the thought of new rotors as I paid for new Ford rotors 3 years ago. Didn't want the Chinese crap from the box stores. I can't imagine how these would warp this bad after less than 15,000 miles, they are massive. Why they would so quickly?
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My 05 F20 CC LB 6.0 4WD has the alternator light on for a few miles then goes out also sometimes goes away when you accelerate hard, is my alternator going, or is this some common glitch in the light hopefully?? Also every once in a while got the death wobble, installed tie rod ends and center link, but if I hit a bump just right it does it.
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I put new ball joints on a few months ago and now the truck is starting the death wobbles felling even around slight bends in the road.I jacked it up and the passenger side tire will move 1" side to side scarey.Not sure what I need to replace.
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Had the death wobble a couple of months ago. Changed all shocks, steering stabilizer to bilsteins; new tires (stock), ready lift stabilizer(stock, no lift) had it digitally aligned. All was perfect. Until my new intermittent steering issues. It appears to happen when making a 90 degree turn, say a right or left onto a perpendicular roadway. As truck straightens out, you'd think the front drivers side wheel is going to fall off(you'd think the lugs are missing).
Pull int a parking lot, drive in a few circles, and all back to normal. Can't replicate every time, force for s few days with no issues, then it might happen again. Other intermittent issue is sometimes, again out of no where, truck will pull and track to the right or left. Pull the steering wheel the opposite direction, it'll track the other way. Again, pull int parking lot, do a few figure eight circles and back to normal. Alignment shop and regular mechanic say everything is tight, ball joint look fine.
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