Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Rear Driveshaft Woes / Vibration At About 45 Mph
Jul 30, 2017
When I bought my 05 350 dually it had been wrecked, the rear diff was under the bumper and most of the rear suspension, including the back part of the rear drive shaft was in the bed of the truck. I have gotten everything back in place, and have driven the truck for a few weeks, but I knew I was going to have to replace the ujoints because there was visible damage to one of the caps. I have also had a vibration at about 45 mph. I had no way of knowing how the original driveshaft was oriented at the slip yoke so I went with best guess. Now in my research I read that if the driveshaft is not put back exactly in the same position vis a vis the slip yoke it will be out of balance.
Also if the drive shaft is dropped it is scrap, and if I have any lift on the truck {it had 4 inches when I got it} the whole thing will shake itself to pieces. Most of the answers to other drive shaft questions talk about taking things to a good driveshaft shop. No such thing here in the vast stretches of My state. I am pretty much on my own as far as building or repairing this thing. Is there any way to determine how the shaft was originally oriented? I also have some damage on the end of the yoke and will have some trouble getting the ujoint apart. Is the shaft now junk? And if I get an ebay replacement, how do I tell if that shaft is in the right orientation?
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On my way to see my folks and I started feeling a vibration like driveshaft or wheel bearing between 45-55 mph then at about 75 then BOOM! Pulled over and found a pool of ATF thought my stock 4R100 just bit the dust but looking at it the fluid is coming from the front driveshaft at the Tcase. My hubs are unlocked and my ESOF is in 2HI but I assume my tcase was locked. Also since the tcase is probably screwed I'm goin to do the 271 with manual hub swap, how hard that is?
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We've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
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I want to and went to buy a new 2012 F350 leftover - everything is good except that Ford.com says the truck was initially put into service In September of 2012 and therefore my warranty will expire in September of 2015 instead 2016.
Dealer says it's an error and will be corrected AFTER I buy the truck, so far I have been unable to get a straight answer from Ford.
Any information about being able ot change the original date a vehicle is put into service ?
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Proper alignment and re-installation of the front spline on the rear driveshaft of my 2015 F350.
I removed my rear driveshaft recently (it slipped right out upon removal without any force or resistance), and I'm getting ready to re-install it again this weekend, but I've noticed that one of the grooves between the array of male splines on the shaft itself appears to be slightly different than the rest - it seems to be slightly wider. It even has a white-colored stripe of paint down the full length of the groove as if it were denoting it as being somehow different from the rest?
Problem is, when visually inspecting the splines on the inside of the receiving yoke (the part that the spline fits into), I do NOT see any such differences. In other words, it doesn't appear that there is only ONE way to properly insert the front splined-end of the driveshaft. What am I missing here?
Is the front splined-end of the rear driveshaft intended to be inserted into the yoke in ANY position around the dial? Or is there only ONE specific position or orientation that it is intended to be inserted or installed? NOTE: I've seen references elsewhere on-line that seem to indicate the need for proper alignment when there are multiple U-Joints, and maybe this is a part of it (?), but I'm not quite sure which U-Joints to consider or how to interpret such an "alignment".
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This is my first diesel but my 4th Ford truck. The truck currently has 4000 miles on it. My first incident started at 500 miles when my windshield gasket or lack/loss of silicone on the upper gasket decided to go. This caused a tornado in my cab at 6 am blowing coffee out of my cup and literally atomizing it all over myself pretty much LMFAO. It sounded like a helicopter attack at 40mph when it went. Ended up being towed to the dealer for repair. At around 2k miles the truck started too stink, like exhaust and coolant maybe. I'm thinking it's the DEF or the left overs from a regen cycle (newbie). At 4K miles, it's getting worse. The cab almost feels like deicing in the plane on the runway, nothing but fumes. It literally blows in through my HVAC vents straight into the cab. I'm glad I own the company because I'd be afraid of getting a drug test when I got too work. Instant red eyes. It is not as bad while driving but starts up again at red lights etc. It's a handful of times a week it does this. Things I've checked, water separator, 0 water in diesel. I've tried different gas stations and different DEF brands. Nothing makes it better or worse. I've read that I'm not alone, God speeds too us skunk trucks.
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What would I need to replace in order to fix this leak ?
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I was having a problem with 4wd and regreased/ cleaned hubs and when I went to test operation both fronts would engage and worked good. After a while.of testing in and out of 4wd I heard a loud clunk and looked under, the front driveshaft blew apart at the weld.the u joints dont seem to be bad so im at a loss as why this snapped. It was not a clean break and the edges looked like it had to started to tear at some part in the past due to rust build upon the inside.of the shaft and torn edge. Im lookin at 2 feet of snow expected here Tuesday, so im trying to find some answers as well as a.new shaft.
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Rear-most connection before pumpkin, need to replace the U-Joint. I got the four bolts out at the flange but the shaft won't drop. I beat on the connection a bit, not enough to hurt though. What am I missing? How the heck do I get this apart and drop the shaft to replace the U-Joint???
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For starters I have a 1999 F-250 5.4l changed all 4 ball joints about 15,000 miles ago. I have been hearing a grinding noise coming from the front end for the last month only when I turn left and at slow speeds. I was servicing the TC so I threw it in 4 wheel to check it and it wouldn't engage until I started moving. When it did engage it was a bad grinding/ clunking sound coming from maybe the differential.
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So I'm getting a mild to severe shudder depending on load and acceleration rate from stop to 10-15mph... It's worse if I'm on an incline...This has started since having a lift installed...I'm guessing it has everything to do with pinion angle...right?
1999' F350 7.3L 4x4
Crew Cab Long Bed
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Trying to figure out my rear pinion angle should be. I still have vibration in the truck around 65-70 mph and sometimes around 80mph if i go that fast. I checked my rear axle last night and its at 8.5 degrees on top of the pinion snout is that correct???? And i forgot to measure the rear driveshaft angle but i can do that after work when i get home. Truck is a 2004 ext cab short bed 4x4...
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2003 in sig. when going around corners slow I can feel and hear a chatter or vibration coming from what I think is the rear end. I am running amsoil 75/140 in it and added some friction modifier. Do my clutches are shot and making noise or do I need to add more friction modifier ?
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My 2003 Ford F250 V10 seems to have a vibration, sometimes at all speeds and sometimes at freeway speeds. I replaced front hub assemblies and ball joints and rear calipers last year. When braking i have a vibration in rear as well, which I think is from uneven rotor but can it be causing my vibration? Also sometimes I can smell hot brakes from the rear.
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I have a 02' 250 4x4 with 250000 miles on it. While driving between 55 to 65 mph there is a roar and vibration that seems to be coming from the rear. I have about 35% tire tread left and have had the rear tires balanced and it still does it. Having issues with drive shafts unbalanced or rear ends?? I am not sure where to start....
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So I have 3 rear u joints and a vibration. I swear I read some where that there was a change to the rear shaft to aid in vibrations. So if that's the case could someone point me in the right thread or tell me what one to use. I have access to both....
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I suspect my rear driveshaft is causing the vibration/noise I thought was coming from the front. I posted a few days ago about how I suspected it was my front wheel bearings making noise. Now its vibrating real bad and feels like a universal joint.
Can I pull the rear driveshaft out and drive off the front wheels with the switch in the 4x4 position? Last year my wife drove for a few days with no front driveshaft as I had one on order. It worked fine, for that.
I just want to go for a test drive to make sure that its the rear shaft, and not something else.
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I bought this Ex a little over a month ago and finally got around to replacing some stuff.
I have a slight vibration between 50 and 60 MPH. The vibration is the same weather I am accelerating, in Neutral, Coasting down (well, a little bit worse when coasting down), in 2WD, in 4WD, turning, going straight, hot or cold.
I have replaced the following:
Rear Driveshaft U-Joints
Tires and Rims
Upper and Lower Ball Joints
Wheel Bearings
Steering Stabilizer
Cleaned and Greased the Hubs
Greased everything greasable up front
I still have the exact same vibration as when I started. I can feel the vibration in the steering wheel as well as in the body of the vehicle. I am thinking that it may be in the steering linkage. If there is a loose joint then the wheels would be allowed to jiggle a little bit. I am at a loss. What else should I check?
Also, When doing the ball joints, I noticed that the tie rod ends were quite stiff. How stiff should these be? I can't move them by hand, but they will move a little bit when moving the free end of the tie rod.
I am taking it in for an alignment on Friday, and if I can't figure this vibration out, I might have them take a quick look into it. Would a stuck slide pin in the front brakes do this? Both sides on my truck are seized at the current moment.
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I have an 2011 F250 gas. I get what feel like a wheel vibration at 48 to 50 mph. It then go as you go up in speed. Comes back as you go down in speed at about the same range. Had it at the dealer for a month they but new tires and one new wheel on the truck. Same problem. Moved up to Ford. The sent me to another dealer. Ford now tells me that this is a problem that exist in the truck and there is nothing they can do.
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So I have a 2016 6.7L love it but it has this vibration at 65 mph that is worse when accelerating up a hill. It feels like an out of balance wheel but I have had them balanced 3 times. road forced 2 times. My dealer replaced the driveline also. I did a test with 400 lbs of concrete bags in the bed and it was vibration free. It almost is like the pinion angle is off.
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I recently checked and changed the one bad ujoint in the rear shaft but I still have a vibration once I hit 35mph but doesnt happen all the time and sometimes goes away while driving.
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