I just bought a 2000 Super Duty last week When I looked at it and test drove it, the doors unlocked with the fob. Then I bought it and the doors would not unlock with the fob. A day later, they would not unlock with the door controller. I can hear them clicking and see them move slightly. Where to start checking?
View 6 RepliesWhen I put the truck in to park, the doors do not unlock. They work fine with the button or the key fob. What do I need to do to fix this issue. Its quite annoying considering I have passengers with frequently that need to open the door a lot.
View 7 RepliesOk, it's cold out... is there a way that I can use my factory key fob to lock and unlock the doors with the truck running? 2000 F350.
View 10 RepliesI've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
2000 superduty. When you hit the door lock/unlock button, they try but won't move up or down on any of the 4 doors. The switches no longer are illuminated either. Where or have a wiring schematic for the drivers door with power windows/locks? I have done some testing for power, which seems to me there isn't enough voltage going to the actuators, but I can't seem to find power anywhere. The power mirrors don't work either. All fuses are good.
View 8 RepliesMy truck was involved in an accident and required a replacement front axle be installed due to damage to the housing. The truck was in four wheel drive when my wife got T-boned and drove up over the median twice to avoid a head on. The shop that did the insurance work said they replace the axle with a low mileage used unit, but since then the hub switches aren't working correctly.
I have taken it to them 4+ times to look at the issue and I keep telling them that the driver's side hub switch won't release, but I keep getting it back with the same problem. The most recent fix they came up with was to replace switches and electrical components. I am thinking that a vacuum leak in the hub may be to blame. I am taking the truck back to them again this afternoon as the 1 year warranty on the repairs is up next week.
Is there any way to make the headlights come on when i unlock the truck using my key fob. The only lights that come on are the inside light and cargo light. Its a 2006 f250 xlt.
View 3 RepliesI just got a 99 F250 PSD, it had not been in 4wd in a while, now the hubs won't unlock.
My 01 F250 seemed to have strictly manual hubs. Turn right to lock, left to unlock. They may have been aftermarket, but on by the PO. Do I need to put some new Warns on the 99? Or can I lube then up and get them functional.
A while ago both back doors on my 01 crew cab stopped working. The outside handles jiggle loose but the inside ones feel like normal. They both went at about the same time. If it's those little black boxes that mount by the handle on the door, how do I even get to it to change it if it's stuck shut? I can't reach my hand in there either to even try to see what's wrong with it. How to get it open?
View 9 RepliesI have a 2004 F-250 SD, Crew Cab, 6.0L diesel. Out of the blue, when opening the door with the key off and out, the dome lights stopped working, the radio wouldn't shut off and I would get no warning that I had left my lights on (nor any other warning coincident with the door opening). Just as if the truck is not detecting the door being opened.
One would immediately suspect the door switches, except that this was a suddenly occurring problem that affected all four doors, by sheer odds, pretty much negating this problem as one to do with the door switches. Still, I did spray the switches with WD40, couldn't hurt, right?
I have replaced relays (#306) with known good relays, I have pulled and looked over every single fuse. I have read of door post wiring issues with F-150's that speak to this issue for that model, but am not convinced that translates to the F-250. I'm at a loss, and almost perfectly convinced this is a computer problem (the GEM, though it's called something different now). But before I go replacing expensive computers, I would like to know how to diagnose this.
As it is, I've learned to live with the fact the radio will stay on when I get out of the truck and will time out after 10-20 minutes. I've learned to live without the dome light coming on and have counted my blessings when the foresight of some engineer saved me from a dead battery by knowing that I would leave the manual dome light switch on from time to time. I've learned to look back at the truck to make sure I haven't left the headlights on. In other words, I've learned to live with this problem.
I have a E99 f250XLT 4X4 Crew Cab PSD.
I have been on this site for the better part of 2 hours searching for my switch problem to no end. Most everything I am pulling up has to do with the lock actuators. I have a switch on the drivers side that will not lock any of my doors. The passenger side switch will work just fine as well as the key fob. All of my actuators work for all 4 doors. No issues with the dome light or door ajar light staying on.
Here is what I have done so far:
I have taken the passenger door switch off and put it on the drivers side and it will not lock the doors.
I have bought a re-manufactured driver side door lock switch and installed it and it did not lock the doors.
I have taken a jumper wire and grounding a pin on the drivers side switch harness and can get the doors to unlock but i can't get it to lock.
Where and what color wires to look for in a harness at the door kick panel or anywhere I might look for a broken wire? It is really frustrating that I can not lock my doors without using my remote.
I posted a reply her a couple of weeks ago on how I fixed my '03 SD's squeaky doors. I went to AutoZone and bought 32 feet of 5/8 inch self-adhesive rubber (not foam) weatherstripping and mounted it around the outside edges of both doors, starting at the top. Presto - squeaks are gone, there are no more drafts and road noise is reduced a little. (I may remove the stripping I put on the side edges of the doors because I think the culprit is actually the rigid polyethylene bumper strip they've mounted on the upper door jam).
View 2 RepliesI recently purchased a 2003 F-250. The door locks don't work properly, the passenger side will lock the entire truck all 4 door locks actually lock. The unlock on the passenger side does not work and neither does the entire switch in the driver side. I attempted to switch the actual switches from the driver to passenger side thinking that it could be a switch that is broken.
After doing that still only the passenger side would lock and the rest of lock unlock buttons did nothing. I have checked all the fuses in my truck and actually took the door panels off today thinking I might find an obvious problem. I know the actuators are a common problem but because all the locks lock in the vehicle I was thinking it might be something else.
07 f350 6.0 crew cab Truck thinks doors are closed when they're open and open when they're closed, just on the front 2 doors and keyless entry doesn't work and the key pad doesn't when you try to use the 2 right keys to lock the doors the back light will flick on and right back off, it'll work just fine to put the code in to lock the doors the back light on the keypad will stay lit up like it's supposed to.
The back lights only flicker when you push both 7-8 & 9-0 to lock the doors. When I bought the truck about 3weeks ago, the keyless entry worked but not the keypad so I kept pushing the buttons on the keypad till it started working but then the keyless hasn't worked since. Then the batteries died on the truck and I put new ones on and that's when I noticed the door sensors being backwards ..
I have been looking into this for a while and can't really come up with anything. I'm wanting to do away with the wood grain on the doors and replace it with something like brushed aluminum, carbon fiber, or heck even just black....anything besides wood grain! Btw this is on a 2003 ccsb.
View 8 RepliesWhy my interior and outside cab light just started to stay on when doors are closed and dial is turned off.
View 4 RepliesJust started a job with a company that has F250 super duty service vehicles and I am puzzled. All the answers I find don't seem to apply to this vehicle. With a full front seat and the big center console it kinda sucks to have to reach over or walk around to manual lock passenger door 10 times a day. I do NOT have power door lock buttons, number pad on handle, or any type of keyless remote. It seems I only have the safety feature lock/unlock at start up and cutoff. So is there anyway to make it not unlock passenger door when I turn ignition off? I even tried pulling fuse 17 that is marked as lock motors thinking that was related with no success. The dash display doesn't have the option to disable as listed in the manual as one of the 4 ways to turn it off. And for reference it does not behave the way the manual says about autolocking at 12mph. Its instant lock on key turn on and instant unlock both doors on key off.
View 9 Replies2000 f350 7.3 Door locks unlock and lock constantly. Wait to start light and 4x4 lights don't come on. Gauges stopped working and clicking behind dash.
View 1 RepliesCurious as to whether the lights flashing when locking or unlocking the doors on the '06 F series was an option or standard equipment? I know that they flash when you lock the doors (hitting the button twice) but curious at to whether you can make them flash when you unlock (rather than just the interior light coming on).
View 1 RepliesI have a "rattle/knock" that I think is coming from the doors on my 2000 F250 SD extended cab. The rattle is only there when the truck is going over bumps....especially closly spaced bumps. My buddy has the exact truck and it does not rattle.
View 14 Replies1999 F250 extended cab back doors won't open. The passenger side stopped opening right after I purchased it a few months back (168K miles). I removed the door panels and reached my hand in feeling around. I know the latch releases are activated by cables but cannot figure out how they work. While feeling and pulling on the cables one became dislodged from its holder. The driver's side stopped opening yesterday . Do the cables stretch, break, or what? Or are the holders the issue? Is there an illustration that shows how the cables are run and connected?
View 14 Replies