Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Pop Noise When Hitting The Brakes
Jun 6, 2011
Got a POP noise when I hit the brakes. I have to apply some pressure for it to make the sound. Does it once when going forward. Doesn't do it again until I drive a few minutes, then it does it again.
If I go back and forth between reverse and drive, it does it every time as I hit the brakes, but only once until reversing direction again.
Takes some moderate pedal pressure to make the noise. If I turn the steering wheel to either side, it doesn't make the noise.
I've gone over the brakes, nothing there is wrong, and besides it wouldn't go away when I turn the wheel. Nothing is loose in terms of tie-rod ends, wheel bearings, nothing.
It's not bad enough yet to be able to see movement in the ball joints when the wheels are off the ground. Is this the ball joints?
View 14 Replies
Advertisement
1997 Super Duty 7.5 has a horrible "whine" when turning the wheels or hitting the brakes. Weird thing is, when I have the front end jacked up it goes almost completely away when turning the wheels. It is still there, and just as loud when I hit my brakes, but the brakes never were as loud as it was when I turned the wheels. I am guessing it is something to do with the steering gear or tie rod ends or something that I have absolutely 0 experience with....
More info on the problem: PS pump was always a bit noisy, but after the truck sat for a while (around a year, drove it every couple months for a few miles) it was ridiculous, so i replaced the pump, cycled all the old ATF out, made sure I had good pressure coming all the way back to the pump, several times. Never ran it dry.
The steering wheel (with wheels on the ground) kicks back on me and has a LOT of play in it before the PS pump kicks in and starts screaming. Jack the front end up, steering is nice and tight, no play, noise is there a BIT (with the hood up and cap off the PS pump) I would imagine under normal driving conditions i probably wouldn't even hear it much, if at all.
With my very limited mechanic knowledge I would assume that something is making it very hard for my wheels to turn, which is straining my PS pump, but what!?!?!?!?
View 4 Replies
My 02 F250 has me baffled. For a while the truck would pull to the right when hitting the brakes and occasionally the brake would get hot. To try and remedy this I put a new caliper and hose on the right front corner a new hose on the left front side. The truck still pulled right and the pedal got spongy even after bleeding the brakes 3 times. I got to checking the rest of the brakes and found a seized slide pin on the left rear. Got that fixed and still pulling right with a soft pedal. I've checked all of the sliders and none are seized. I am lost and I cant stand the soft pedal!
View 4 Replies
Switch out a 5.4 in a F-250 4X4 4 my neighbor now I have a noise like fan blades hitting coming from the torque converter it goes and comes and hits good in reverse...
View 9 Replies
Bought my truck in April and it has basically sat in my driveway until I sell one of my other vehicles. I've started it every 2-3 weeks and let it run for about 1/2 hour each time. I've had to charge the batteries once (about 2 months ago) when they were low and wouldn't start the truck.
I've also moved it out of the driveway several times (about 50 feet - moving forward and reversing) when having to make room for other vehicles. I noticed last weekend when I started it up, there was a bit of a whine coming from under the hood ... it wasn't too loud. I didn't move it that time ... just let it warm up ... again for a 1/2 hour.
This morning I went to move it again for a service vehicle. It was cool outside (about 32 degrees). There was a loud moaning and groaning this time every time I moved the steering wheel. I sat on the street idling and the same moaning happened when I touched the brakes and didn't move the steering wheel. The steering also felt stiffer than usual (although I don't have a good feel for "normal" as I haven't really driven this truck except when I brought it home in April covering 1,000 miles ... it had no symptoms or issues then).
I'm hoping it's just from sitting so long without really being driven but I'm feeling that something is binding or perhaps there is a problem with the power steering.
View 14 Replies
I have a 2015 F250 6.7L and I am having problems with the brakes. When you first start the truck and put it in reverse and hit the brakes there is a continuous popping noise coming from the floor board and it can be felt in the brake pedal. It feels like the brake pedal is kicking back, once you drive the truck a little ways down the road the brakes work fine but if you hit the brakes a few times in a row like coming to a red light the noise is there again and it can be felt in the pedal.
View 3 Replies
2004 F250, I am getting this howling noise when applying the brakes. It sounds like it is from the left front and is more prevalent when applying the brakes down an incline (off ramp, etc) I pulled the wheels off and the pads were probably 50-60% worn. I bought some new pads and installed them and I still get the same noise. I didn't buy the cheap pads, nor the most expensive either. Either way, I can't figure it out. Would I need new rotors? I would think I would have some vibration if the rotors were warped. My other thought was the caliper, but when I replaced the pads it compressed fine and I lubed the slide rails. Not sure what to do at this point. The truck has 94,000 miles on it, FX4, Lariat, Crew Cab, and it has the 5.4L in it.
View 2 Replies
I noticed today my ranch hand bumped is hitting my fenders, when I originally installed it there was about a 1/2" gap.
All the bolts are tight, however it appears the mount that's attached to the frame is flexing and becoming weak as I can grab the bumper and rock it when it used to be rock solid.
Is there anything I can buy that will reinforce the bumper mounts that are connected to the frame to support this bumper???
Right now it's bolted up with 4 bolts on each side and no additional hardware.
View 3 Replies
My truck has been shaking/jiggling like crazy after hitting a quick succession of bumps and potholes and won't stop until I bring my truck to a complete stop. Happened 4 or 5 times in my old '87 F250 over a period of months, happened 4 times starting yesterday with my '02. Heard it may be the steering damper shock.
View 9 Replies
I purchased the truck from a used car lot about 3 months ago and after driving for a few thousand miles I am feeling a slight wobble after hitting a bump in the road. Here is my truck set up:
- 2011 Ford Lariat F250 4X4 FX4 6.7 ltr
- 67400 miles
- Tires stock and great tread
- Rancho steering stabilizer kit
- Rancho Shocks
- Rear air bags
It does appear one of the rancho stabilizer dampers is leaking slightly. Why would the previous owner install a rancho stabilizer kit? Is it because of the rear air bags?
View 14 Replies
Every time I apply brakes I hear a weird humming noise, as well as no stopping power. Checked fluids and pads and everything is where it should be. I heard abs can cause this but not sure on that. I know my master cylinder has a very small leak but it hasn't lost any fluids of that sort. I'm lost. I don't know where else to look.
View 2 Replies
Got my new truck last week and the steering is awful. Loose as a goose. Every bump that you hit jerks the steering wheel around. I changed the tires from the factory 80psi down to 60 for the front and 65 for the rear, didn't work much. On some big bumps it acts like I am losing control. It reminds me of the death wobble on my old 05 F250 which was 4wd. I thought that the 2wd independent suspension would be smoother.
It's got a sway bar up front can I add a steering stabilizer? If so who makes one? Everything else about the truck is great. The new 6.7 is quiet as a mouse and powerful. So far fuel economy is the same as my ecoboost. Haven't got to tow with it yet.
View 5 Replies
I have a 2001 F250 SD 4x4 5.4L . I purchased the truck used with about 120,000 miles on it. It runs great despite averaging about 10.8 mpg. Shortly after I got the truck, I noticed what I thought was an intermittent transmission issue when the trans would shift. I would get a "flare" that lasted briefly as if the trans was slipping, but it was accompanied by a sound that I'm not sure how to describe, but it was somewhat like hitting a rev limiter. It only happened when the transmission shifted. The fluid was clean and did not smell burnt. I assumed it was a misfire issue, even though it did not happen often, and seemed to only happen at shift points. I changed all of the plugs and all of the coil packs. It still does the exact same thing. Sometimes it only does it once every couple of days, and other times it may do it 3 or 4 times a day.
View 5 Replies
I put on huge mud flaps front and rear, have the platinum running boards, spray inner fenders on rear .....thought I had it covered....getting rock chip on front of rear fenders can see impact marks on hard plastic protector and upto 8 inches above it.....thought of 3m on Monday morning but is there anything else? I think the gravel is coming off front wheel hitting bottom of running board touching off road and getting me....can't think of any other way.
View 4 Replies
I use a bottle hanging like an I.V. drip to flush the Brake Fluid in all my cars. I can pump all the old fluid out, as well as the air. My Superduty 7.3 has a good solid brake pedal after the flush. It seems to me the rear brakes handle 60% of the stopping load. Its been like this for so long I'm not sure if it's ever been different. i then go to a gravel or wet road and test the rear abs, and it seems o work, but definitely has a squirrely feel. I did some strong pavement stops with speed, and it stops, no skidding. Is that the way it should be?
View 14 Replies
99 F-250 Ext cab 4x4 7.3 285,000 miles.
I got home today opened my door and got snaked in the face with the smell of brakes. I got out of the truck then I heard the drivers side rear brakes popping as they are cooling down. I reached down to touched the wheel and it's crazy hot. Opened the garage and went to retrieve the infared thermometer. The rotor/caliper was 350 degrees, hub was 150 degrees, axle tube was 90 degrees.
I took the wheel off and inspected stuff. The rotors do have some heat spots, the caliper visibly looks okay but not 100%. The pads look like even wear. I am guessing that the caliper either is hanging up or I have a wheel bearing going? The passenger side was like 80 degrees on everything. There is a slight shimmy while driving which to me feels to me like the beginning of warped rotors. I don't hear anything to me that screams wheel bearing noise wise.Brakes or bearings?
View 7 Replies
A couple of times recently my brakes have been very hot when I stopped. I took it to my mechanic who took it for a drive and then used an IR thermometer to measure the rotor temps. The front right and rear left rotors were at least 40 degrees higher than their opposites on the same axle. He believes it is probably the master cylinder..
View 8 Replies
I don't know if this is even a problem or not. Do the front brakes get hot on the one ton dualy? I wouldn't have even noticed it except when I went to the car wash, when I sprayed water on the tires and rims to wash them, I noticed steam coming off the front brakes. Think I have a problem or not? I can put it into "drive" and it rolls freely. It doesn't feel like anything is sticking.
View 3 Replies
1999 F-250 4x4 PSD, 160k miles. Sometimes, at low speed like 5mph or less, when braking the brakes are almost gone and one can feel the stiff pedal coming back up when stepping on it hard to make the truck stop. The ABS is set to not kick in at this low speed, right? Truck throws no code and shows no warning lights (ABS light in dash works with key on-engine off) when this happens. Pull the related ABS fuse and problem goes away. Where to look?
View 11 Replies
Read alot about a brake sticking and changing out the caliper or the pin or the hose but did not come accross a problem with all four sticking. When I leave in the morning brakes are fine and once the heat up all four get supper hot when I get to my destination and the truck is very sluggish, the brakes are sticking and it is all four. Changed the calipers on all four but did not work. Changed a brake line (not hose) that was rusting out, did nothing. I am leaning towards the master and its valve because all four are effected.
View 14 Replies
My Superduty has been pulling to the left when I hit the brakes for a few months now. In the past it's done it, like within a year or two after buying it brand-new off the lot, but that was because one brake pad had rusted itself to the bracket and was not doing a darn thing. Once or twice more, it was a stuck caliper pin, which was quite obvious when working on it.
Last year, around August, I replaced the rotors and pads with Advanced Auto parts stuff. Rotors are still great, pads look brand-new, and it wasn't pulling up until the past month or two.
But this most recent pulling has been a problem that I can't find. It's not the pins, it's not the pads, and now I find out, it wasn't the calipers
This past weekend I went so far as to replace the calipers with Napa rebuilt "semi-loaded" calipers (all hardware and pins and bracket, except for the pads) and pressure-bleed the entire system. The old fluid was green, not black, but now that it's been bled, the pedal is a bit firmer than it was.
I wasn't going to replace the calipers without checking them first, but I broke both bleed nipples off and I wasn't about to wrestle with an easy-out and try to get the darn things out. Per side, rebuilt caliper with hardware and bracket, can't go wrong. (Checking the calipers would have involved using a C-clamp to compress the caliper slightly, then backing off the C-clamp - if the pistons come back out a slight degree, they are free and the seals are still "grabby" and resilient).
While bleeding it, I saw a piece of black crud (rubber?) about 2-3mm in size come out of the left side. Didn't think much of it, figured it was just built up crud from somewhere.
Today, the first commute after doing the calipers and bleeding, it's still pulling just like it was before the calipers. However, I did notice at one point when I hit them, they pulled like they normally do, but seemed to go straight a few seconds into it. It does seem that if I keep my foot on the brake, the pulling is much less after the initial second or two, but if I stab them again, it pulls like crazy.
And by "pull" I mean the steering wheel actually moves in my hand. So with that in mind, it's actually a front-brake problem. If it was the rears, the wheel wouldn't pull like it does, and if it was something loose in the suspension, I would have found it already after checking everything, and it again, wouldn't pull the steering wheel like that.
Now, given that black piece of whatever that came out of the left side, I'm beginning to wonder... if it was rubber from the inside of the hose.
Is the right brake hose causing the pulling because it's coming apart just like the left one might be?
I've gone over and over this in my head this morning, and thought about the ABS unit possibly dumping pressure from the right because of a leaky valve (see side note below), but I would think that once the pedal stab was over, it would even out and not pull at all.
However, this thing pulls left quite a bit, even after the pedal has been held down for quite some time. Usually. Sometimes, it subsides and doesn't pull. But mostly it does no matter what I do, keep pressure on the pedal, let up and reapply, whatever.
Does this really sound like a bad hose? It's intermittent, but usually pulls like 90% of the time.
Side note: The ABS unit in my truck, and most Fords of the time (not sure about later than 2004 or so) is a Kelsey-Hayes three-channel unit like this:
Kelsey-Hayes RWAL Antilock Brakes
It's the same system found in Chevy Suburbans and light-trucks, which I have worked on before and know a bit about.
In my case, it can't be a dump valve leaking, because it would effect pedal-height and not PULL to one side like it does. The only way that could happen is if the isolation valve was closed, AND the dump valve were leaking at the same time.
I haven't, however, gotten the ABS to activate just to see if it changes anything. On my way home tonight I will see if I can find some dirt or sand and get it going
View 13 Replies
