Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: PCM Or ICM Relays Clicking After Staring And During Idle
May 8, 2017
The truck runs but After staring and during idle there is a heavy relay click and the speedo jumps to 20 or 30 mph. Afterwards on a 30 to 45 sec cycle there is a relay clicking in the area of the PCM relay.
Speedo jumps to 10mph and radio resets. 15 to 20 seconds later there is a light click behind the dash ( no speedo jump or radio reset). Rinse and repeat...
I have tried to locate which relay is setting it is either the PCm or possibly the pcm and the icm. Can't tell. Popped and swapped for s&@$s and giggles but no change.
1999 7.3, 308,000 miles. No mods. Original injectors and no other major repairs.
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I have a 5.4L 2001 F250. I recently replaced the starter and this morning when I turned the key it just started clicking. I had this issue a couple weeks ago and swapped the battery from another truck and it started fine for a while. But after this morning the relays are still chattering even when the key isn't in. I believe it's still the battery ....
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Bottom-line question: is there a way to tell if a GEM is fried?
'99 F350 with a known water leak (not where it leaks, but for sure that it does--glove box, floor mats, etc.).
Recently started running the battery down, and then noticed that under low-voltage conditions it would click the door-lock relay back and forth, etc.
Now, after several inches more rain, it's making clicking and other electrical havoc noises any time it's not running, key in or out, even when the battery is up enough to start the truck (V10). I charged the truck and started it, drove it around to let it charge some more, and when I got home and shut it off, it was clicking as bad as ever.
After reading on the forums a while, I went ahead and pulled the fuse panel and GEM. The two big fuse panel connectors were definitely wet inside, and there's a little corrosion on one or two of the bayonet connectors. The GEM itself doesn't seem wet, and it doesn't look/smell like I've let the smoke out of it.
What do I do at this point? Last time, after I charged it up, it seemed to hold a charge and didn't do any clicking. I thought at the time it was related to the door switches that had been on the fritz (and which I lubricated after reading about where they are). Now, I suspect it was just because it had been long enough since it was rained on that things had dried out.
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I have read everything there is on this stupid esof 4x4. But I'm not getting power to the relays. I have checked every fuse listed and have no corrosion or anything. Is it possible that having a ,door ajar light on, constantly cause this I'm stumped.
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I have a 1999 f350 with the 5.4l engine. I have no power to the fuel pump or fuel pump relay. I have battery voltage to the pcm relay. I don't know what else to test because I don't have a proper wiring diagram.
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2001 F250, 7.3L ... After much diagnosis, I've found that the 4 positive feeds to the transfer case relay base have no power to them. The fuse that feeds them (#17 CJB) is fine and when I jump from the fuse hot side directly to the transfer case motor contacts on the relay base, it shifts fine. As far as I can tell, there is only one wire leading from that fuse so there must be a junction block somewhere that splits it into the 4 wires that feed the relay block. I've looked underneath and found nothing. How the 1 wire gets split into 4? On diagrams this junction point is labeled, but I don't know where to find that.
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I have a 99 F-250 SD 4X4 7.3 with about 160,000 miles and still running strong. I haven't been able to troubleshoot a strange clicking noise during the Glow plug / pre start warm-up process. It seems like the noise is coming from a vacuum "relay/ actuator" ( I think that's what the part is) under the hood on the passenger's side. But again I am not a Ford mechanic, nor have I owned this complex of a truck before.
There seem to be two different vacuum terminals that both have two outlets that attach to vacuum hosing. The unit does not have a line ( or 2 ) connected to the innermost vacuum outlet. Does this need to be connected? If I put my fingers on the units outlets to restrict the noise becomes more high-pitched, then will cease to make the clicking sound sooner than if I didn't cover the outlets.
I'm unsure on the process on how to insert a photo. it's asking for a URL, does this mean I need a flickr photo account to transfer the photo? Can I just upload a JPG?
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Whats the clicking noise going on behind my dashboard? It's constant even with everything shut off in my'02 F350. The truck has been laid up for three years and I'm getting it ready to move...
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When I go to put fuel in my truck. It keeps clicking off? I have to slightly hold the trigger to put gas in it? I have tried to get the vent hose to the tank filler off, but what is the trick to getting the hose off there??
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I have a slight problem and don't know how serious it is. I own a 2003 F350 with a lift kit. After my drive shaft shattered last September. due to a U-Joint a clicking noise started up in the front axle area after we locked the hubs so we could crawl it down the road out of traffic.
What would be the likely causes and how much would a typical repair/replace cost?
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Diesel truck starts fine. Idles up in cold. Runs fine. Sitting in cab I hear a random clicking. This sound comes and goes. Driving down the highway at 70 it will do it. After an hour or so it won't do it any more. If I shut the truck off and start it again the random clicking will resume it comes and goes? Where to start looking. It sounds like the click from dead batteries but the batteries will turn over engine and start with no problems.
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Basically I have a 2008 f250 (6.4l if that makes any difference) That wont engage into 4x4. When you go to turn the switch to engage the 4x4 all you get is a click click click click click. Is that a problem with the 4x4 shifting solenoid on the transfer case? Anything else to look for? The truck has 95k miles on it....
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I have a 2001 F250 Super Duty 4x4 with the 5.4L I bought it cheap and runs well. While going through doing the stuff that needs attention I noticed the 4x4 isn't workijg. It has whatbappears to be some cheap maybe plastic locking hubs and the manual pull stick onj the floor for engaging the 4x4.I can pull it into 4H and 4L, the dash lights confirming come on but the front wheels will not lock in.
One of the cheapo hubs looks like someone clamped vice grips on it to try and turn the and doesnt seem to totally lock in. The drivers side hub sounds like it is lock in but makes a terrible lound clicking noise.
They may be the stock hubs, have no markings to designate the direction to lock and unlock and do appear to be somt sort of plastic hub.... Are the hubs my problem since I can manually pull it into 4x4 and I can see the 4x4 shaft spin but the tires are not engaging?
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So I was trying to put led turn signals in my truck then I decided not to because it was getting too dark. Earlier today started without complaints. Then after I was done with the headlights I tried to start my truck, nothing besides rapid clicking. First thought was battery was dead from me leaving the dome light on the entire time while working on it and also having the headlights on a good portion, so I decide I'll jump it. Get it all hooked up and and start the donor truck then wait 2 mins and try to start my truck still nothing but rapid clicks. I got the voltage meter out to check the battery and had 11.97 volts (that's not great but either way it wouldn't start when I tried to jump it). Put it on a charger? Bad starter? Solenoid?
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2004 F350 150,000km ... I have a rattling/clicking sound from the front right wheel when the hub is not locked (Free) and I hit small holes or run over rough roads. the sound is gone when I lock the hub front hubs.
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My neighbors 02 250 6.8l the turn signal/hazard relay is clicking with key off, sounds exactly like a turn signal when truck is off and switches are not engaged. Here's the weird thing, if you hit the brakes the relay stops clicking, if you engage the turn signal or the hazards the lights on the dash are in time with the relay as it should be, but when the turn signal switch or hazards are turned off the relay keeps clicking except when you hit the brakes. Also the turn signal will work with ignition off, if you pull the relay out the turn signals and hazards are inoperable but the brake lights still work. I swapped in a new relay and same thing...
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2002 F350 with V10. A/C stopped blowing cold. I can hear the clutch clicking on and off, so probably needs refrigerant? Other thing is that with A/C off, the temp control turned to cold, and fan on, it blows hot air. On my other vehicles with A/C off and temp turned to cold, I get outside air at ambient temp.
I removed the cover off the evap core under the dash and observed the blend door opening and closing as the temp selector is moved. The duct door moves correctly, so am I'm missing something? Is the Ford system such that ambient air is always heated? This happens even in cold temp conditions.
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I've been researching a problem with my power door lock. On my 2002 F-250 Lariat Crew Cab PSD (not the 76' SuperCab)] since Saturday when they began demonstrating the following symptoms:
1) No response to key fob (either lock or unlock)
2) No response to door switches (initially responded to unlock command only)
3) Whenever the key fob or door switch is pushed, a clicking noise from behind the dash occurs for about 15-20 seconds
4) When the key is in the ignition, the clicking from behind the dash is constant
5) Intermitantly, the actuators attempt to lock the doors when I close the door
6) Intermitantly, the locks will respond to some comands
7) Auto down feature on the driver's door window stopped working.
I found the clicking was coming from a unit behind the radio and just above the transmission hump on the firewall.
There are several threads on power door locks and I thought it might work others to have short summary and some links in one post as I just spent the last two days finding and reading these.
The most popular fix involves pulling the actuators apart to remove a thermistor from the motor that is prone to failure. This apparently rejuvinates the actuator motors and the directions for completing this are listed here Power Door Locks FIXED It's a long thread, but there are lots of step-by-step directions including pictures etc.
I tried this on mine, but it didn't work. The clicking from behind the dash is a different problem. At least when I get this fixed I'll have good actuator motors.
The next most popular fix simply involves spraying WD-40 into the door latches (not the hinges, but the latches). This seems to work for many people who have problems with the dome light staying on and other door switch related problems. Check out Door Open Light On Dash What Up? for more info on that.
I tried this too, but, unfortunately, the clicking is more than can be solved with a little WD-40. The Door Open Light On thread had some references to the Vehicle Security Module.
I found a number of threads on clicking from behind the dash and these threads all seem to point to a problem with the General Electrical Module (GEM) or the Vehicle Security Module (VSM). From what I could find, the VSM may have been a new part introduced in 2002 that replaced the GEM (but I'm not sure about this). Here are a couple of the more useful threads I found:
VSM Theory
Dash Open Light On Dash What Up?
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1999 ford F250 SD V10 ... When this goes on the truck misfires and tries to die. Usually I can key the ignition in nuetral and the clicking stops and the truck starts and runs better....
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So, yesterday when I got home I stopped at the barn to unload a few bails of hay and when I got back in to crank it, nothing happened. I turned the key and nothing, so I figured I would just worry about it today. However, when I turned the key back to off and started to take it out all sorts of stuff started to happen. There was a clicking noise and a dinging, not like when the door is open. It was quicker. Also, when I turned my key back on none of my dash lights or radio came on. Nothing happens now, except the strange clicking when the key is off or out. The first thing I thought of was the GEM or fuse box.
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I remember seeing a post a while back stating that the reverse sensor would make a clicking noise (when you're ear is up against the sensor) when working properly, I only had one working but I figured I'd replace them all since the 4th one was sure to go out . Fast forward to using two different sets of sensors, and not a single has worked or made that clicking noise like I would assume it should be. Can an aftermarket head unit cause these sensors to not work properly or have I just gotten two bum sets?
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