Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: P0088 Code - No Loss Of Power
Mar 10, 2017
So I'm not sure if I bought a lemon, but i picked up a F-350 6.4 Turbo Diesel two days ago and the check engine light came on yesterday. It's giving me a P0088 Code as well as the P0088pd. It's got 131,000 miles on it so no warranty will cover me.
I'm tracking the TSB put out telling the techs to replace the HPFP, but they mention a loss of power. I've only had the truck for two days, but I've driven them for work before and I can't detect any loss of power. Besides the code, everything seems to be running fine.
What can I can try out before running out and changing the HPFP? I'd rather not cut so deep into my savings if I don't have to.
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I have a 2015 SRW f350 and has been fairly problem free. Last Thursday I was driving home and I received the reduced engine power and code popped up P0088, high pressure fuel rail issue.. anyway, I just popped over 36k miles, the truck is at 36,278 miles, so I take it in thinking they will goodwill it.
I get a call saying they can't clear the code and the TCM AND PCM can't communicate and they have to reach out to Ford engineering. They find the PCM is corrupt, they call me twice and ask if the truck has been tuned, the answer is no, but then pin me against the wall saying I am the second owner, which I am, and that it could have been tuned prior. I tell them to prove it, you can see if there has been a tune. The truck truly has never been tuned, it was sold at Ford factory auction as a employee vehicle.
Now they are trying to tell me the corruption was due to the tune, which it never had. But they won't goodwill it and say I am responsible for all the diag and work done, I say no. I say this should be a warranty issue and should be covered, they say it was tuned, I told them to prove it.
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2008 F350 6.4 ... So I've been reading all about the spartan tuner throwing the P0088 code, and the ford band aid fix, I guess my question is, I'm going to have my HPFP replaced for peace of mind. Truck has 106,000 miles on it. Will i have an issue at the dealer if I show up with my tuner/exhaust on the truck? I'm not worried about warranty obviously, I just want to know are they going to have to unplug the tuner? Or something, I am just concerned how they'll go about putting the new HPFP on.
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Replaced HPFP 38,000 miles ago. Truck began going in limp mode without engine light, wrench came on in dash, gave codes for brake switch, anti-theft, some other weird codes. Had those codes cleared, ran for while then water separator came on, drained the water out, came back on. Read some forums, so I removed and cleaned the housing, cleaned off the sensor. Had code cleared and ran good for about a week. Then guess what engine light comes on, limp mode.
Went to Auto Zone, pulled code P0088. This truck runs awesome until limp mode. No other problems. I take it to the ford dealer, scanner pulled P0088 and the water separator code again. I have read alot of remarks about this P0088 code. Can there be another cause for pulling this code, only 38,000 miles later. I had them do the TSB 12-07-07 but I have also read it can only be done if the P0088 is the only code. I just really feel there is an underlying issue with these 6.4's.
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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Last night, I left it running while unloading a trailer and come back to notice it was idling abnormal. I jumped in it and tried to move it and there was a noticeable loss of power. I unhooked the trailer and tried to get it home. I only made it 1/2 mile down the road when it started spitting and sputtering (surging ever now and then) to a level that it died completely. I was able to start it back and get it out of the road but had to be pulled into a drive. It got to a point it wouldn't start back at all.
Today it started up however still had a rough idle and really has no power to speak of. The more I messed with it the less power it seem to have.
I have searched the forums and tried these things:
1) Checked the oil and noticed it was on the low end of the operating range. I put some in it to put it back to normal.
2) Disconnected the ICP
3) Changed the crankshaft position sensor
4) I dumped the fuel bowl after it completely died (in case it had any water in the fuel bowl).
The fuel filter was just changed 2 weeks ago. The fuel pump seems to be operating correctly (or it at least refilled the bowl) and started again with a very rough idle.
It doesn't have a engine light on nor do I have anything to read any codes it may be showing.
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I have a 2004 f250 superduty. I lost all electric to truck. No lights, radio, etc. Turn key and no click or dash lights. I put a charger directly to battery and nothing. Is there a main fuse in power line prior to the fuse box under the dash??
Also, right before this happened, I went to start my truck and my batteries were low, the truck turned over a few times, started dying, so I turned the key off, and the truck kept turning over on its own, as if the circuit remained closed for ignition due to low battery, and it turned over by itself until the battery was completely dead. But putting my battery charger on it now gives me no electric at all.
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Got a 2001 7.3 crew cab long bed over the winter and over the last week I have some electrical issues.
Leaving work I had a dead battery(s) or so I though. first though the batteries are going or the alternator going. Its a manual so i had a friend pull me to bump start it and everything was as it should. The volt gauge came right up and checked the alternator and it was OK.
Later on while driving the radio turned off and I could not get it to turn back on. At the time I didn't notice if the other cabin accessories were working
(didn't think to take notice). So, turned around a drove straight home. Once in my drive way I shut the truck off and right away turned it back on and the radio came back. I didn't know what to make of it so I just let it be.
The next morning I went to start the truck, Wait to start light went out and when I turned the key. Just a click. and the instrument panel goes dead along with all the other cabin power. when i open the door the turn signal starts clicking. So I took the batteries out (thinking that something is staying on inside the cabin and draining the batteries). I charged them at work came to find that they are holding a charge.
My issue was most definitely the GEM. So i took that out sent it to Florida and got it serviced. When got it back today and ........Same thing. I am at a loss here. Am in looking at the right things? What should I be looking for?
[URL].....
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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I have a 2004 F250 Super duty that had a battery die (I left the keys in the ignition switched on overnight) and after jumping the battery off the vehicle started up but now I have no power door lock or window functions. Any reason a dead battery issue might affect the power locks and windows?
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I bought 08 6.4 113000 on it 4x4 lariet drove 300 miles home. No problem 2 days later runs fine for 45 minutes than loses power and sputters up hills starts no problem every morning every time wait awhile sometimes runs fine was on e when test drove canged both fuel filters oil and drained 8 quarts tranny fluid and replaced it. When problematic rpms wont go over 2 turbo psi seems high seems in sync with rpms dropped...
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2003 F350 6.0L ... 171,000 miles ... 5,100 since oil change 15W-30 at the shop ...
I was driving on the interstate (50 miles of driving) struggling to maintain 70-75 mph at 2,200RPMs. I would accelerate and RPMs would go up to 3,000 but no speed. Before I could pull off speed slowed to 50 before dying. Sat on the side of the road 30 minutes before I could get it started. Had to give it gas. No misfires just quietly started. Couldn't go over 30 mph. Towed it to my destination 135 miles.
Volts on 7Pin FICM read fine.
Checked the fuel fulters. Air Filter. Tank for debris. Nothing.
My coolant reservoir was lose and I noticed a lot of coolant in the driverside front wheel well and down the left side of the undertruck. Reattached after checking FICM. Hope that was all it was cause I couldn't find any leaks.
I had Planned to have the oil changed before the return trip before this all happened. New to Diesel engines but I like a challenge. Where do I go next?
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I am trying to diagnose a problem with a friends 2002 f350 7.3L truck. the engine has approx. 140,000 miles and is all stock, no programming or aftermarket parts. Anyhow, he said driving down the road the other day the engine all of a sudden lost power and the truck wouldn't go any faster than 45mph. he said taking off from a stop sign, the truck has no power and takes forever to get up to 45mph. after this issue began, he has changed the fuel filter & screen, air filter and fuel pump. The check engine light if OFF, no active fault codes.
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On the highway doing 100 mph. during af take over, my Ford F-250 6,4 Super Duty 2008, lost nearly all power. (now it is like driving my old hummer h1)
Engine and car runs/starts great, only 10 minutes uptil 60 mph. now.
My mechanic has given up. He checked following:
EGR = OK
HOSES = OK
ERROR CODES = NONE
INTER COOLER = OK
PARTICLE FILTER CLEAN = OK
TEST WITHOUT EXHAUST = NO DIFFERENCE
FLUIDS = OK
Hopefully something I can fix with my hammer. The car has 85.000 miles on the clock.
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I have an early 03 f350 with a 7.3 liter 298,000 miles on it
Replaced fuel filter
New oil change and filter replacement, New icp sensor .
Deleted the baffle and installed a cone air filter with the air sensor installed in the neck .
I Was driving home one day and the truck just slumped into this huge power loss . Couldn't get over 2200 rpms and barely made it over 30-40 mph.
Truck in park - idles like crap and still won't go over 2200 rpms when holding the pedal to the floor . And it has what sounds like a miss at a struggling "full throttle" (22-2500) rpms - thought it could be my icp sensor - replaced it -- no change
Checked driver side wiring harness -- no damage chafing found -- did a fuel can to pump test no difference - and today after I reinstalled the fuel line right after I ran my can to pump test I let the system prime . Started the truck and it ran for about 40 seconds and died and wound not fire back up and would just miss and spit and sputter -- lots of gray smoke though- but it fired up a few hours later after I let the batteries sit on charger .
Now before all this happened - I noticed the truck had a bit of a gutlessness to it as I would be piddling around around town and it would have this hesitation in power kind of like a slight jerking feeling , now this truck was so gutless since the day I got it ,I couldn't even burn out on a gravel road without the throttle going limp and the check engine.
Light kicking in so I figured I'd give it a bit of hotshots secret and see if It would maybe flush the injectors but it really made no difference...
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I have a 1999 f350 7.3 diesel. If I apply the brakes when I am not moving it is almost impossible to move the steering wheel. I have flushed power steering system. This problem has gotten worse over the corse of owning the truck for the last 10 years. Ball joints and u joints are good. Had to change power steering cooler a few years back, rusted out line, really got gradually from there.
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2005 250 5-speed total oil pressure loss ... At 110k mechanic diagnosed failing phasers from noise, rough idle, loss of power under 1k rpm. (Crew cab long box xl bought new for $25k)(first 100k were from carpenters (hard miles) so this truck is barebones and usefulness is much higher than cash value). Truck has 146k
All symptoms typically disappear over 1k rpm so I have limited idle time and manipulated engine speed to try and maintain 1000-1200 and all has been well for past 36k miles. Today noise (valve clatter?) persisted at all rpm and during a scramble to get off the highway all oil pressure was lost (I'm aware that pressure gauge on dash is not 100% reliable). After total pressure loss I cut engine and called tow truck. Out of curiosity, I actuated ignition and motor cranked maybe two rotations, and then appeared seized. After about 45 min waiting for tow I went back to disengage 4wd and take my rifles and skis out of truck. At this time I actuated ignition again and engine fired and ran as it had for past 36k miles. I drove about one mile constantly watching oil pressure gauge, then noise returned followed by instant drop from normal to 0 pressure (dash gauge) I immediately shut of engine.
I am a mechanical engineer, but not a mechanic. I am familiar with the cam phaser system and I understand that their operation is directly related to oil pressure. Today's temp was under 0'F. I have a very skilled mechanic who works for around 30-40% of cost of licensed shop and I know his skills to be on par.
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Chasing a problem for sometime now with my early 99 F350 auto 7.3 w/ 134K. This problem seems to only happen when the temperature outside is lower than 20 degrees.
When approaching a hill the truck will lose top end power (2000 RPM and greater) and shudder. Basically, start at 65 and you reach the top and 45. My gauges are all normal, no codes are present, no leaks or other abnormal sounds.
Fuel pressure is good (even under load), passed buzz test, passed CCT test. Is this possibly just the nature of the beast (being cold)? Seems to go away after 30 minutes or more of driving. In the last month, we have:
-changed all fluids and filters, except in tank filters
-sensors replaced: map, ebpv (and tube), IAT, and intake spyder sensor
-boost leak checked
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Here in the last week or so I have noticed what seems like loss of power in my 04 F250. When I get on the gas it doesn't seems to respond like it used to. When I turn off the truck i can smell diesel a little bit. could it just be a clogged injector, bad plugs or what?
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2014 F250 6.2. I turn traction control off while plowing or any winter driving. With it off I can spin rear tires,but as soon as there is the slightest turn in the front wheels its like something takes over. Lose of power and sounds like anti lock brakes kick in. Is this normal. I like to throw in 2wd and spin around while plowing. Also the kid in me has never left and I like to drift in turns. It takes all the fun out of winter driving.
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