Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Overheating At High Speed / High RPM / Under Load
Aug 10, 2015
I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
View 11 Replies
Advertisement
So basically I thought it would be a great idea to degrease my motor from the top down.... After washing I start it up and drive down the road to head abunch of misfiring under heavy load or high rpm's.
My problem is that the misfiring won't throw a code. I then proceeded to buy a new ignition coil (thinking this was the problem) but with no code to go off which cylinder was bad I just switched the good ignition coil into each cylinder and starting it.
Up each time. None of them seemed to make it better. Also the injectors all seemed to be good. So what to do ?
2002 Ford F-250 5.4l
View 3 Replies
My truck has had a bad vibration for some time know, it started around 41,000 miles and took it to my local Ford dealer... the told me I needed tires and that my airdam/bumper extinction was loose and causing it to vibrate . I put front tires on I fixed the plastic on the bumper and replaced steering stabilizer . Vibration continued to come and go after all of that so I replace the steering stabilizer with a different steering stabilizer .
I noticed that the front seals for my four-wheel-drive allowed the shaft to move up and down by more than a half an inch of play.so I had Ford replace the front hubs and seals . Vibration is now worse and more often. It happens every time I am between 50-54mph. I am going to put 6 new Michelin defender Tires on it and new shocks and a Monroe steering stabilizer.
YouTube....
View 2 Replies
I have a 2008 powerstroke. Dpf and egr have been fully deleted. SCT tuner seems great and have had no issues since installed 6 months ago. I recently hooked up to my camper and headed up a mountain pass. As soon as I started uphill the engine overheated. I allowed it to cool and tried again with the same result. Eventually had to unhook and have another 6.4 (this one being a 2010) pull the trailer the rest of the way. Haven't had any heating issues since unhooking.
View 7 Replies
I just put a dual exhaust kit on my truck (cherry bomb extreme, single in dual out), and I've started to notice that around 2100-2200 RPMs, there's a high pitched vibration in what seems like the tight hand corner of my regular cab. It almost sounds like the glass in the window is vibrating, or a loose bolt, or something like that. Very high pitched, very noticeable.
View 2 Replies
I've got a 2006 SD Lariat, 6.0. The fan only comes on when turned to high. The display moves when the fan speed button is pressed, but nothing from the fan until high. I don't really know anything about the operation of these things, whether they run on a vacuum, or electric, or??? I'm not sure where to start with it.
View 14 Replies
Got my 240 amp alternator in and had all new 1/0 GA battery cables with a 250amp fuse in line made to do all new lines. I started tonight and found a small line going from the alt connector down the power line to a fuseible link (fuse) all in the power line
I wanna do away with the main 4 ga alt wire but obviously I can't do anything with that line going to the plug. Can I put a connector on it and wire that into the one side of the 250amp fuse.
The only other option is to add a wire to beef up the stock line ....
View 14 Replies
first heard it a few weeks ago after the wind storm hit us here in nj, my girlfriends grandmother has her fifty foot pine tree rip out of the ground in her front yard. since it was only thirty feet from the street. I said hell ill drag this sucker to the road and cut it up there instead of dragging everything by hand. I figured 4wd high was good (don't know how heavy a pine tree this sized weighs) and I hooked the tow strap to the tree trunk and started to pull. first 4wd high was struggling but the real problem was this high pitch howling i was hearing, went about ten feet and the noise started to bother me, so I stopped and put the truck in 4low the noise stopped and the truck drug the tree with zero effort.
So I didn't think much more of it till today, got a little dirty trying to take the dog swimming and needed 4wd, as soon as i started to hit the skinny pedal and the motor made the tires turn that dam howl came back! rocked the truck a few times and ever time the motor lugged from trying to spin all three tire the same howl came back. switched to 4low to get out and the noise went away?????? Went back to 4high and sure enough the howl was back? regardless i got out but now i have this howl when using 4high and I am really working the truck hard in 4high. I am thinking torque converter is slipping making the sound and4low multiplies the power enough to make it go away from the ease it now has to spin the tires? I am gonna go tomorrow and climb a few hills and see if i can get the howl to start again in 4high...
View 14 Replies
Ive read here that our trucks can lose all of their AC fan speeds except High - mine has done that as well. However, even High on my truck doesn't blow much air. I looked behind the glove box for an interior air filter, thinking it might be clogged but couldn't find one. What could be stopping my blower from putting out?
View 2 Replies
On my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
View 2 Replies
I've got a 2000 F350 crew cab with a camper I bought in Chile and I'm going to be driving it from the tip of south america back to the US. It's a 9 month epic family road trip. It'll involve crossing the Andes several times and going over 15,000 ft. There are roads up to 19,500 ft in various places.
My question is am I going to have problems with the altitude? What can i do about it? I've got another truck which is a unimog, it's slow as hell but has a special kind of booster gas you can inject in to the engine to get it started in very cold weather and at high altitude. I chose the F350 for the truck instead of the unimog because a unimog is slow as hell (think 40mph max speed), but it handles extreme conditions well.
View 10 Replies
I have a 2001 f250 with factory fog lights. ive been researching to see if I can make my fog lights turn on with the high beams without pulling them out. My broke and cant pull it or it comes off, but will still work to turn head lights off and on. How to make them come on with the high beams?
View 14 Replies
1999 F350 Crewcab 4x4 dually V10. Fan switch only works on High. All fuses and relays look Good. Is it a bad speed control switch? What can it be?
View 8 Replies
A good while back I seen a thread to do this , but can't locate it now. I have a 2012 F250 and looking to make my night time driving better ....... I want to run both low and high beams at the same time and getting the fog lamps to stay on when going from low to high beam.
View 14 Replies
I have a miss at high rpms.. I pulled this engine, manual trans, and 4x4 axle and put them in my F350 Majestic motorhome. 156,000 miles on the engine. Slightly dusted engine with good compression 375-400 (cranking and corrected for altitude). Has a little bit of a long start.
No smoke on start up unless 10 degrees or colder
No smoke when pulling either.
Glowplugs ...Good
GPR... Good
Checked resistance from IDM to injectors ...Good
History of some ether for starting before I got my hands on it. I have AE with the ford enhancement. But I am new to working on a powerstroke and new to AE.
ICP ...new
CPS...new
Oil ....new
EBP...new
Installed a pressure gauge to the drivers side upper port on my fuel bowl:
60 psi at idle
55 psi at WOT 2500-3000 rpms under a load
HPOP stabilized pressure is 2750 @ 40% duty cycle
Truck still misses (semi-intermittently) at higher rpm with a load.
Rechecked codes KOEO: None present
I visually inspected valve movement while running (idle). Did the buzz test when cold.... All injectors sounded the same when tested individually.
Did a cct when not completely warm:
P0266
p0272
Repeated the test at normal operating temperature:
P0266
Torque values on rocker arms bolts and injector holds are good. Fuel quality isn't an issue since this problem has remained for 5 tanks of fuel. What I should do next?
View 1 Replies
I'm going to cut right to the chase, when did ford stop having the diesel high idle when it is cold? I have a 2015 350 I bought last August and assumed it would high idle like previous power strokes. I even put a ts6 chip in my 97 just for high idle option to keep the motor warm when idling around our farm. I realize ford probably doesn't want trucks idling long because it kills mpg and isn't good for the emission system but to be honest I could really care less about mpg as long as it's decent and a high idle would keep emissions pushed through. Is there an option or anyway you can get the 6.7 liter to high idle?
View 1 Replies
I just got a 2003 f250 5.4 triton and it has a terrible knock. I've hear of the cam phaser problems but this thing knocks at high rpm and at idle so I doubt it would be a phaser, I thought it could be a rod bearing but I'm not losing any oil pressure. Its a pretty loud knock I don't have money for a mechanic to diagnosis it...
View 3 Replies
I've been battling this high temp issue for a bit now. Here's the recap on my truck.
2005 F250 6.0
120k miles
Edge insight CTS2
New factory Oil cooler
motorcraft coolant -system flushed
Stock EGR- No leakage
Deltas 3-5 degree apart no A/C on
A/C works great!
-Issue- When I turn the A/C on city on normal driving no loads or towing. The temps have gone up as high as 230 eot 230 etc. Ambient temps 83-90F ....
View 3 Replies
I have a 1999 Ford F550 with a 6.8L V10 and a 4R100 Auto.
I want to run an underhood hydraulic pump, like what a wrecker uses only I want to use it to run a generator under the truck.
How can I get a 6.8 to idle up to 1200 or so? I searched the Body builders guide and it looks as if the idle up is for the 7.3 only.
My truck also is not a 2005 and up like the other posters, who can take advantage of a drive by wire.
Also I doubt my transmission has a PTO cover so I think a generator option using that route is a dead end. What are my options to idle the truck up to 1200?
View 2 Replies
New too my Ford, but anyway it's -10 Celsius. My trucks been idling for a few hours and probably will all day because of my job. Usually idles about 600rpm normally. So today the oil temp was about 80degrees Celsius. Then the truck idled up too about 1000rpm for a while. If I touch the gas it goes back to normal idle speed but then starts idling up again after 30 sec. What temp does the truck want too keep it at?
View 3 Replies
I recently (2 weeks ago) picked up my first Effie, a 2004 RN F250 Supercab XLT 5.4L 4x4 auto (dual Fuel Petrol/ LPG).
One of the things I am exploring is a problem with the tachometer reading high. I read on a thread somewhere on the forum that it was most likely that the earth of the tach plug was not connected. (It was a great thread but I can't seem to relocate it)
I am still chasing a workshop manual to get wiring diagrams, etc. In the mean time, where to locate the said plug/ earth connection?
View 7 Replies
