Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Oil Pressure Loss Suddenly?
Aug 17, 2016
Carb rebuild and tune-up on my 370 and took for a test run. All of a sudden oil pressure was lost. I know catastrophic happened but was conned into dropping oil pan and put in high volume oil pump. now at 2000 rpm I have enough oil pressure to keep rods and mains from rattling but lifters are collapsed. At idle oil pressure drops to zero. It is a mechanical oil gauge. I know the tune-up had nothing to do with it but I did drive the truck about an hour before. A machine shop said the only way he knows oil pressure can be lost like this is for a cam bearing to come out [catastrophic].
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Bought a 08 F350 with the 6.4 Liter, with 80k mikes on it. Was traveling up an incline. Both Turbo's were engaged, when suddenly I lost boost, and PSI dropped all the way down. They barely create any pressure now. Checked intake, also checked boots too inter cooler. All seem fine. After driving it for about five minutes at low PSI, a check engine light came on. It was a sudden loss of power.
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Had my trans rebuilt in August because of a lagging reverse and loss of shift pressure. Had it rebuilt and beefed up a little and I've had problems getting the trans to be like it was new and seven years ago. I had enough of my head gasket oil leak and loosing my job recently so I bought a trans pressure kit and hooked it up today, all I can say is I now have another problem to get corrected. I'll list my pressures and I took videos so I'll upload them to YouTube and link it that way.
Park - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
R - 25psi start then slowly rises to 60psi
oem - 70-100psi
N - 85psi
oem - 50-65psi
D - 82psi
oem - 50-65psi
2 - 20psi then slow to 80psi
oem - 50-65psi
1 - 50psi then slow to 100psi
oem - 70-100psi
My WOT pressure at 1-2 and then 2-3 shift is 170psi, I cannot find OEM spec online yet but I believe I was told it should be over 200psi....
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2003 f550 with 7.3, suddenly loses power and struggles while driving. White/blue smoke comes from tailpipe, can smell the diesel exhaust bad when happens, comes and goes intermittently but has been happening more and more often. I uploaded a video onto YouTube to show sound, rough running motor and smoke from exhaust although smoke not that bad in video. Search "shadetreelandscaping" on YouTube in case link below doesn't work.
ShadeTreeLandscaping - YouTube
Took to ford dealer a few diff times for problem and they can't get any codes, can't duplicate problem. After it being in for third time they say had to call ford tech hotline and they suggest replacing injector however can not and will not gaurntee that will solve problem, and obviously dealer isn't cheap for repair. I find it hard to believe that a bad injector(s) would be an intermittent problem as it is or that it would cause fuel pump to make gurgling sound.
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My 1999 f250 superduty with the 5.4 was sitting in front of my house, and started all by itseft, did not have keys in it either and the doors were locked. I ran out thinking someone was stealing it but nope,? As far as I know it does not have a remote start either,i have owned it for the last two years and it has never happened before. It is a lariant edition also .
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today I went out to start the F-250 2003 6.0L, and since I have a head cold and i was supposed to go to some job meeting and there's this weird beeping from a smoke detector in my house I can't turn off and it's keeping me awake= I was a total dip you know what and cranked the truck without warming up the glow plugs. So now it won't start. I don't know EXACTLY if that's why, or what. The batteries are fine. There don't appear to be any wires that jiggled loose. I drove home just fine last night.
I don't want to keep cranking it, obviously. Could this be because I forgot to turn the key and warm up the glow plugs? It's not that cold out, but, I know sometimes with my VWs you really had to do it no matter what.
Given that I may have made this stupid mistake, what are my options now? I don't smell diesel when I open the hood. Should I just wait a while, or should I try to open something up, or what?
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So now my window won't go down.. Any clue if it's the regulator or the motor? When i push the button it makes a click noise but nothing happens.
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2008 F250 - All of a sudden no back lights when headlights are on. What gives??
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I have a 2003 f350 v-10 drove it yesterday to get fuel, went to start it after fueling. No start, no lights dash was gauged was acting odd, and clicking under the dash from behind fuse box. did get it to start after a while, put my foot on the brake to go into drive, never made it ... truck died I do have remote start system thought it was that with the brake pedal issue. disconnected complete system. no change Had it towed, home now no nothing, connect the battery and just clicking from under dash no start ? not a battery, won't even jump Battery is good, the power to starter, Posted this also in light-duty trucks wrong place think this is the better place. Gauges pinned to right with key off
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My v10 when air is running every few months all of a sudden spike to hot and got to reduce power, i turn off air and in 2 minutes it goes to normal, i can start air back again and not have any more issues to a few months later it will do same thing again, it will not does gradual climb and fall it will spike all of a sudden, turn off air and it will go back to normal in 2 minutes...
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I have a 2003 F350 with 7.3 L. I was driving down the road the other day and my headlights suddenly went out. I kept diving with my fog lights on and several minutes later the headlights came back on. Then the next day they went out again, came back on and then went out again and they haven't come back on. I have checked all the fuses and they are all good.
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15 f350 gas xlt with 8.6 Western proplus straight blade. I noticed that while only applying throttle and fully angling the plow ,the hvac system turns off and then on again and the dashboard lights also turn off with the message system also going blank. I've brought it back to the body builder, twice, that installed it and they don't acknowledge a problem. The only answer I got was it's probably a bad battery. The funny part is you can angle it all day while it idles but as soon as you apply throttle and fully angle it left or right it cause the loss of power to certain accessories. When it does this it also causes a relay to click under the dash panel on the drivers side .
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Truck sat for 1 1/2 years. Changed filter and put in 15 gallons of fuel. Had maybe 1/2 gallon old fuel in tank. MAYBE. Fixed fuel line because it wasnt getting fuel and it fired right up and idles great.
Truck has no acceleration over 2500 (or so) RPMs but idles fine. This is depending on how hard you push the pedal of course.
If you drive the truck normally like a grandmother it seems to be ok. As long as you dont need a passing gear or need to accelerate more than 1/4 pedal
If you try to push the pedal to get the next higher gear it will sometimes hit the gear fine. IF you floor the truck it will totally lose acceleration. Then the truck will run like crap even slow for a good while. But then it will clear up for the low end. Then you can drive it normally. Then when I think I can test the upper end I get the same thing again.
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2004 F-250. 6.0 I was driving down the road when the engine dies. It was like I had turned off the key. When I tried to restart it, it was no click, no starter sound, nothing. The glow plug light remained on, even while turning the key over. What could cause this?
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I recently purchased a 2000 f250 with a 7.3. I'm new to diesel motors and new to super dutys so
Problem; had been driving for an hr and truck, which was running fine shut off like someone turned the fuel off. Check engine light came on, motor cranked but wouldn't start Back up. After an hr or so it fired back up and ran fine. This happened several times until now it will not start on it's own. I use a quick shot of starting fluid it fires right up and runs fine. Have run the truck for 1/2hr or so driving it and no issues except check engine light staying on. Shut it off and it will not start again without starting fluid, which I've only used 2x and sparingly. Generic code reader says no codes.
Is it vapor lock? Under valve cover plugs connection?
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I was driving and all of a sudden the radio died, battery light came on, Power windows and interior lights died, gauges died speedometer went all the way up to 100. The Head lights, turn signals and heater work. When I got home I opened the hood and the battery was boiling.
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I have a 2005 Ford 6.0L Diesel with the 5R110 transmission.
About a month ago, i started seeing some strange shifting issues with the transmission. While driving normally, it would suddenly hard shift (slam itself into gear), the entire truck would shake it shifted so hard. It would also cause the Tow/Haul indicator to start blinking. (my understanding is that the Tow/Haul light indicates an error code).
I drained/flushed the transmission, installed the larger pan/with the improved filter. I put Mercon LV back into the transmission (what type of fluid was in there before).
The problem still persists, and got a bit worse. The truck is almost un driveable at this point. Still getting Tow/Haul flashing messages. Can the error code be read by an standard ODB2 reader ?
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I don't know what is wrong with my truck. I don't know what this symptoms called, but It felt like it was missing a beat. The engine suddenly lost power for a second or two wile driving. It did this few times. Is it the engine or the transmission? No check engine light is on. 2001 F250 5.4 V8
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Last week our F250 suddenly stopped running. We had it pulled to the house, about 2 miles, and found it was the AC Compressor Clutch (took belt off and it started fine) Today we replaced the AC Compressor and now it wont shift into drive. Reverse is fine, fluid is fine and there is no warning lights on.
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One of my work trucks is a 99 F-250 5.4L. Up until recently it's been running strong. Then one day it's like someone flipped a switch, and now it runs like it's losing power.
Symptoms: a quick short stumble when you first hit the accelerator. While driving, it takes the entire pedal to accelerate. Even with the pedal to the floor, it won't keep up with traffic. Driving uphill, it will barely maintain 40 mph.
I've checked everything I can think of. Fluids and filters are all good. Battery and alternator are good. There are no trouble codes. I have Autoenginuity with the Ford Bundle, and the truck passes every diagnostic test I throw at it.
There's no smoke. It still idles pretty smooth, although there is a slight and very quick random shudder in the idle that has started at the same time it started losing power.
Transmission is good. The last thing I tried was to change the fuel filter, but that made zero difference. Quick question, does the tank on the 5.4L trucks have a pickup screen like the diesels? If so, I might try blowing some compressed air through the fuel line and see if it dislodges anything.
So that's where I'm at. It has no power, yet I can't find a single thing wrong with it.
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I have a 99 F-250SD with 5.4 automatic that just all of a sudden started running unevenly at random times, but frequently. There is a pending code P0300 Random/multiple cylinder misfire. I have had the truck for 12 years and it has run perfectly for the last 10+ years and just started this problem, it did not come on slowly but all of a sudden. I have seen on here that some people say that 90% of the time a PO300 is a bad cop. I replaced the plugs 60k miles ago when I had a bad coil on plug 10 years ago that did not set any codes, but this seems very different that more than one cylinder seems affected, like maybe 2 or more cylinders are not firing momentarily.
There is a big power loss momentarily while it happens, but doesn't happen for long. The fuel pressure stays pretty constant (30 psi at rail) even while it happens, and it can affect the idle as well as while accelerating or cruising at speed. I cant imagine more than one coil on plug would be skipping at the same times or fail at the exact same time, but maybe having only one bad cop could cause this much hesitation? Does the code that indicates random/multiple cylinder misfire rule out only one bad cop? It just seems like running on 7 cylinders wouldn't be so noticeable. Could a sticking egr valve cause unevenness at idle and higher rpms and set a P0300 code? Would checking manifold vacuum be they way to see if egr valve is not working correctly.
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