Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: Occasional Misfire With Low RPM - High Torque
Jun 22, 2017
On my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
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We've gone through pretty much every other option as to the vibration on take off and other high torque situations and have pretty much settled on the the driveshaft as the issue. I added traction bars recently thinking that the old leaf springs just aren't up to the job anymore. That seems to have worked some but it's still there. We've gone through the rear diff also and that's good. I'm looking at options for replacement of the shaft. What are the current thoughts on one piece shafts? Is aluminum the better option?
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I have a 2016 F250 extended cab with 8 foot bed with snow plow and camper package currently less than 2500 miles on it. Every once in a while when I make a turn (typically a left hand turn) I will here a brief noise that sounds like a rubbing or "squawk" noise. The noise doesn't seem to be related to the turn so much as to the roll of the truck when it unloads / loads the suspension. I'm guessing it might be related to sway bar bushings or something similar, but I just don't know.
I have tried to find a stretch of road near the dealer where I can make the noise happen so I can take a tech for a ride so I can let them hear exactly what I hear, but as hard as I try I cannot reproduce the noise consistently.
I have visually checked underneath and I do not see anything wrong and I suspect it's not serious, but I'd like to know the cause and obviously correct the problem.
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2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
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Iv got a 2003 6.0 stroke with 212k miles on it. Runs like a top. Done a slew of work from injectors to hpop, 2 alternators, intake, exhaust. NO tuner! Stock. Anyway recently I started the old girl up, warmed up a bit and shifted into reverse and truck did nothing. Went to drive and same thing. Held brake and revved it up and it dropped in gear. Shifts fine after that. No issues other than the occasional NO shift from park problem. Iv dropped pan and replaced all filters recently.
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My '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
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I have a 2009 F-250 4x4 with a 5.4L and a manual transmission. I am looken to get more low end torque and a few more horses. I am thinking about starting out with a programmer and/or headers. Is this a good or bad idea.
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I finally got around to installing a transmission temp sensor in our '06 F250, and I have noticed today that it seems to be at 180 degrees regularly driving around town unloaded. It has been around 80-85 degrees outside today. We just got this truck about a month ago, so I'm still getting used to its little quirks. On our old 7.3 with a 4R100, it wasn't at all unusual to see 180 on a day like today around town. Is this normal on a TorqShift?
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With my windows up I occasionally get a slight whiff or smell of gasoline with the engine running. Doesn't matter if A/C is on or off. I crawled all under the truck and can't see any fuel dripping. (2005 5.4)
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Replacing EGR cooler/ EGR valve. Are there torque specs going back together with the EGR system? or is there a forum that has all the torque specs id need to complete the job.
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I have a bone stock (other than exhaust) F-250 SD, 6.0 auto, 185k miles. I have a substantial vibration when the torque converter locks - about 50-55 mph. Once the transmission warms up (i.e. 4-5 miles from a cold start) the vibration goes away and the transmission performs flawlessly. Backing out of the throttle and allowing the TC to unlock makes the vibration go away, as does shifting into neutral. There is no noise, just a vibration that will shake the whole truck. Transmission fluid looks good, and showing full. Have had the truck about 4 months, and have not flushed or replaced the filters on transmission.
I've seen a couple of similar threads on vibrations, but not one where the vibration will completely go away. I'm thinking replace the torque converter but wanted to get more information from the experienced experts that know these 5R110s better.
2007 F-250 King Ranch 6.0 PSD, 5R110W, 4" Turbo Back, Otherwise bone stock, 185k.
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When running up through the gears under normal acceleration I can feel almost a double shift in 5th gear. It doesn't occur using tow/haul so I assume it is the TC locking up. Everything else seems fine. Truck has 9k miles, mostly towing. 2016 6.2 ....
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I have an issue to where every once in a while my truck will not shift and when it does shift it slams into gear, and my overdrive light flashes and then I'll turn the truck off let it sit and crank it back up and it drives fine and the overdrive light is off. It shifts normal and smooth other than when this happens. Not sure if it is my torque converter or maybe a solenoid or what. My truck is an 07 f250 6.0 with 192,000.
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I recently purchased this truck so I don't have any history on it. It's the V10 motor, automatic, 4 wheel drive, with a crew cab. I took it to Advance Auto to have them read codes and it came back with torque converter solenoid fault and 2 other codes related to that part. I didn't get to see the actual code numbers.
I've talked to 2 transmission shops and they said they could throw a solenoid pack into it, but that it might not even fix it. The truck drives fine, shifts fine, the tranny oil looks and smells fine, so I'm tempted to not worry about it until something else happens.
The truck has 217,000 miles on it...
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I have a 2002 7.3 with the 4r100 173k miles. If your nice to it she drives fine, but if you get on it the torque converter will slip/stall kinda revs up like 300 rpm then slams really hard between 1st and 2nd. Other gears work fine. I've only had it not happen like 10 times since I've owned the truck ..... I don't really beat on it except for towing which I'm starting to do a lot of. Wondering if putting a new stock torque converter in it is worth it.? Not gona blow the bank on a TC unless I'm putting a brand new trans in the truck. Which I don't think it needs in the near future.
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Switch out a 5.4 in a F-250 4X4 4 my neighbor now I have a noise like fan blades hitting coming from the torque converter it goes and comes and hits good in reverse...
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What are the torque specs for the crankshaft,cylinder heads and camshafts for a 2005 f550 v10 6.8?
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I am having overheating problems at high speed/high rpm/under load. The only codes ive gotten are EGR dpfe (0401). Truck is 99 f250 with the 6.8 new egr valve, dpfe, new coolant, new thermo, new sensor under manifold. I blew 90 lbs air pressure thru the egr lines, big and small, they were clear.
So whats left? I never hear my fan clutch......should I? I've had other trucks and the fan roared when first started for a few seconds, and then again when you were hot...they really roared.
Is it possible for the egr port where it goes into the throttle body to be plugged? guess I should've checked that when I had the egr off. Would an aux. fan be a waste of time?
This is pulling a 3500 lb camper trailer up moderate hills.
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