2004, 6.0, 96,000. I noticed a occasional clunking under the passenger foot area. The exhaust pipe is loose at the turbo connection on top the engine. It is swinging L & R & hitting the spring hanger & transmission cross member. Is there a rolled pin, dimple or other alignment device at the flange at the turbo???
View 4 Replies2012 truck, started making a noise today. I cannot tell what it is, but seems to be coming from the passenger front suspension, its a crunching/light clunking sound, happens when going over bumps, when the truck pitches one way or the other turning, and coming to a stop....
Truck has 6k miles, I did a quick visual inspection this afternoon, didn't notice much, but the sway bar endlink looked a bit odd though, not sure if normal, its gota little bend too it and seems to just contact the vac line mounted behind it, seemed unusual...
Maybe its its just one of the crappy rancho branded shocks is junk?
I have read a few threads about wet floors but I still don't know the answer.
I can see the water dripping down the passenger side floor, from the area of the firewall. It is filling the channel in the floor, under the door sill.
The truck sits in my driveway, with the nose downhill. May be windshield, or AC/Heater drain tube could be plugged. Does the '99 F250 have a drain tube from the AC?
I found water under carpet next to door. Appears to be coming from area above center of vehicle. Only occurs during rain etc. Not from A/C or heater housing.
View 14 RepliesOn my '99's 5.4l with 55k, I've got a slight misfire occasionally with lower rpms and higher torque - basically going up a grade that's not quite steep enough for the truck to downshift, but clears up right away the instant it downshifts and gets some rpm. It generally seems like weak spark, or perhaps an injector spray pattern such that it doesn't always get fired off.
To give some history, the truck had more or less sat in a farm garage for ~5 years driven maybe once a quarter before I picked it up ~2 years ago. When I first picked it up, it misfired all over the place. I didn't think much of it, considered it gummy fuel, and dumped a couple cans of SeaFoam in the tank, replaced all 8 plugs (pretty sure with motocraft plugs though I don't explicitly remember), checked my air filter, etc and the misfires cleared right up and it purred nice and smooth like a happy little motor. That was at ~45k, or 10,000 miles ago.
Now it's starting to hiccup again and I'm not entirely sure why. The plugs should be nowhere near burned up yet and there are no lights on the dash. It's never come close to overheating and the only oil leak I know of is that famous small drip on the inside-rear of the passenger side bank drips on the exhaust header just enough to stink every so often when I come to a stop. I don't believe I'm burning any oil and certainly not near enough oil to foul a plug. Including that drip, I go about 3,000 miles before needing to add a quart. I've dumped 2 bottles of Berryman's in the fuel tank and it seems to work, but it's definitely not gone, so I'm thinking it's probably not oil related and more fuel/spark.
I'd had it in the back of my head to replace the fuel filter as well, but I hadn't gotten around it yet as it seems to be getting fuel at high rpm's just fine. I went ahead and bought the filter the other day and plan to install it shortly. It doesn't really make sense that that's what it would be, but I figure I'm due and it's worth a shot. If they were old plugs, I'd just replace them out, but they seem to new to be causing any issues.
What torque value is in foot pounds that Ford recommends for the 10mm bolts that attach the overload spring bumper brackets to the frame on a 2014 F250?
View 5 RepliesI have a 2016 F250 extended cab with 8 foot bed with snow plow and camper package currently less than 2500 miles on it. Every once in a while when I make a turn (typically a left hand turn) I will here a brief noise that sounds like a rubbing or "squawk" noise. The noise doesn't seem to be related to the turn so much as to the roll of the truck when it unloads / loads the suspension. I'm guessing it might be related to sway bar bushings or something similar, but I just don't know.
I have tried to find a stretch of road near the dealer where I can make the noise happen so I can take a tech for a ride so I can let them hear exactly what I hear, but as hard as I try I cannot reproduce the noise consistently.
I have visually checked underneath and I do not see anything wrong and I suspect it's not serious, but I'd like to know the cause and obviously correct the problem.
Iv got a 2003 6.0 stroke with 212k miles on it. Runs like a top. Done a slew of work from injectors to hpop, 2 alternators, intake, exhaust. NO tuner! Stock. Anyway recently I started the old girl up, warmed up a bit and shifted into reverse and truck did nothing. Went to drive and same thing. Held brake and revved it up and it dropped in gear. Shifts fine after that. No issues other than the occasional NO shift from park problem. Iv dropped pan and replaced all filters recently.
View 2 RepliesMy '05 (134k, rwd, V10) has had an occasional issue with stalling when going into neutral. The normal idle speed in park or neutral is 700. In drive or reverse it dips down to 350 or so and then evens out at 500. The stalling is not all the time, perhaps 2 out of 10 shifts. It is slightly worse with the A/C running. Every time it stalls, it records a P0506 error which I then clear out with my ScanGauge II.
I have done some research and have replaced the air filter (super dirty), fuel filter (not sure on how old) and cleaned the MAF tonight. For the MAF, I pulled it from the air tube and gave it a bunch of squirts of MAF cleaner. I did this 3 times letting it dry in between cleanings. I have run a bottle of SeaFoam through it, as well. The idle seems to be very smooth and it pulls my 7k travel trailer without issue. That did get a little better with the new air filter and fuel filter.
I went for a ride tonight and the problem persists. I'm taking it in to have the A/C recharged next week and will have the shop diagnose it. I came across this post which details my issue exactly. The steps are to reprogram the PCM and TCM, and possibly replace the throttle body. Is the reprogram something an independent shop can/should do?
P0506 idle lower than expected on 05 ford f350 v10
I have a 2001 F250 7.3 with 175K.
Here is the situation. There is a disturbing clunk when I take my foot off the accelerator and a corresponding clunk when I push back down on the accelerator. This only occurs when the vehicle is not under load. That is, it does not happen when going up hill or on any sort of an incline. It does not happen when the automatic transmission shifts. It does not happen shifting into reverse or drive.
It does not happen when starting or stopping. It only happens when I am at 40-60, or so, miles an hour and let off the accelerator and/or press the accelerator again. It appears that I can carefully feather the accelerator to eliminate or, at least, minimize the clunk. I have crawled under the truck and it looks like all the U-joints are tight, I have lubricated the slip-yoke (although when twisted there is, like a mm of play when this is twisted, not much but a very little).
The rear-differential pinion appears to be tight (no side-to-side play or up-and-down play, or at least I can't make it move with my hands). However, when the truck is in neutral the entire driveshaft is able to rotate a half inch, or so, all the way up and down the drive train. That is, the transfer case and the rear differential appear to have a little rotational play in them, but I am guessing this is pretty normal. When in park the entire driveline seems solid.
I have seen from some of the other posts that this sort of clunking can come from leaf springs, hangers and such but since this clunk seems so isolated to acceleration changes when the vehicle is not under load, I doesn't seem like this would be the issue. No clunk when shifting, turning, bumps etc. Everything seems perfect until I am on a gentle downhill or flat and let off the accelerator. Doesn't appear to clunk when going down a steeper decline. All this gets me to thinking that the clunk is caused whenever the driveshaft rotation gets ahead of or behind the rotation in the rear differential.
With my windows up I occasionally get a slight whiff or smell of gasoline with the engine running. Doesn't matter if A/C is on or off. I crawled all under the truck and can't see any fuel dripping. (2005 5.4)
View 4 Replies2001 PSD ... Had speedometer jump 20 km's (12mph) while stopped with foot on the brake? This has been happening on my 2001 PSD intermittently for the last couple months.
View 1 RepliesI'm sure this is a common issue, but I don't know exactly what to search for. I have a 2001 F250 7.3L. When I stop my truck, with my foot on the brake, the steering absolutely doesn't work. I replaced the PS pump, which it needed, plus all the hoses and it got better, but the no steer problem while braking is still there. I have seen that an upgrade in pressure hoses may work?
View 1 RepliesNot sure if it's a bearing or some kind of U joint. I am just starting to feel a little clunking in the wheel on a rough road. It is not bad but I feel it, is it hard to fix this issue, and what is the correct part I am looking for. Steering Wheel Bearings? This is for a 08 F350 SRW 4X4 KR V10
View 7 RepliesMy Superduty recently started clunking when I accelerate from a dead stop. The harder I hit the gas,the harder it clunks. I unbolted the driveshaft from the rear end and the yoke slides easily. Tranny mount looks tight. Could it be the front driveshaft? Sometimes when I brake hard and the truck comes to a complete stop it will do it too.
View 14 RepliesI have a 2000 F250 SD with the V10 engine. The problem that I am having with it as of late is that whenever I perform a full turn I hear some clunking coming from the front end. The clunking is similar to that heard from cars that use CV joints FWD but of course it sound more "manly"
Anyways, my truck has the full axle on front so I suppose it could be either the u-joint at the hub or the hub itself. I would like some pointers so I can acquire the required parts.
Have an 03 f250 6.0L and the tie rod from pitman arm moves easily and there isn't a steering stabilizer, noise got worse after I put new tires on front but it's a loud clunk that I can feel. I've replaced the sway bar bushings and end links. Would the worn tired rod make that noise or would it be ball joints?
View 1 RepliesHad to make a sharp circular turn last night in a parking lot, with the steering turned to full-lock...noticed a very audible clunking or clicking noise during the turn...went away after full-lock turning was released. My hubs are locked in...but I was told there was no issue with leaving them locked in, even during the summer. And there shouldn't be...4x4 disengaged, of course. Must have been the u-joints clicking / clunking? Problem?
View 5 RepliesI have a clunking noise that I can feel directly under the floor board that definitely seems suspension related. It is getting progressively worse, it's not constant but it is magnified when hitting bumps, pulling out of driveways etc. I have jacked the truck up and tried to simulate the issue with no luck.
1999 F350 4x4 7.3L auto trans 150,000 miles
So I noticed the past few days my 09 F250 was clunking in the front end when turning hard even with the hubs in auto so I knew there was an issue in there somewhere. This morning I took the jack and found the passenger side would not release no matter which way the lock was turned. Pulled the locking assembly out and found a couple of the pieces of plastic cage broken (truck has 250k miles) which is to be expected I guess but the locking ring that holds the inner piece that slides over the axle stub was off and hanging next to the c-clip on the axle.
So with the plastic of the cage already being broke and the mileage on the truck it's clear I need a new lock for that side.
Here's my dilemma, I have to deliver a conference room table 200 miles away tomorrow morning that they need for meeting tomorrow afternoon at 3:00pm. I cut the rest of the plastic pieces and took the gears out leaving just the cover with the diaphragm and put it back on the hub. I can't come up with any logical reason why I can't drive the truck this way but just want to bounce it off the experts here before I take off on a 400 mile trip in the morning. The only thing I can come up with is if I were to engage the 4wd the vacuum might suck the auto-lock diaphragm in and pop it but otherwise I can't find any reason to not run it this way, the hub is still sealed up and free-wheeling just like if it were in 2wd anyway.
I took my truck in for a clunking noise in the driveline as I come to a stop and sometimes when shift into park. It is now the 7th and I'm told parts have been ordered and the truck will be worked on when parts come in. I asked to speak to general manager and still no call back. I called customer relations and nothing they can do.
Honestly I think the have me on the back burner since I'm warranty work opposed to marked up repairs. Am I being unreasonable on my expectations of repair time? I called around and a ring and pinion job is quoted at 3 days at the most. Other repairs have been approved as well and parts are in for those, but they have not actually repaired them either.