Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: O/D Stem Light Started Flashing After Transmission Rebuild
Feb 13, 2014
Had a front seal leak on my 2000 F250 V10 with 122000 miles. Since I've towed for years and the tranny had to be pulled I opted to just rebuild the whole tranny. I had problems from the beginning where it wouldn't shift into third and when I took my foot off the gas it would just go out of gear completely and just rev. After I stopped and started over, it would shift fine for the rest of the day.
Finally the O/D stem light started flashing and the mechanic did something to fix it. Since then it has shifted fine but when it went into overdrive the rpm would bump up and kind of slide into overdrive. Left the truck with the mechanic again for two weeks and it's better, sometimes revs and slides into overdrive not every time though.
My problem, besides the overdrive shifting, is it now takes forever to shift in to 4th gear. I have to take my foot off the gas to make it shift into 4th and overdrive won't kick in until 45 MPH. My gas mileage, while bad enough before all this, has now dropped another 2 mpg to around 7.5 to 8. I was thinking about taking it to a Ford dealer for some kind of analysis.
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So I was driving my 2004 6.0 auto on the freeway today when the tow haul light randomly started flashing, nothing felt wrong until I stopped, then when I went to pull away it wouldn't shift down from 5th according to my livewire ts says under the commanded gear gauge. It shifts into 6 and overdrive fine. I turned the truck off, the light went off but as soon as I put it in drive it jumped around from 1-2-5 and back down until it locked in 5 again and the light started flashing again. What this could be?
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2006 E-350 Dually Ambulance Chassis with the 6.0... Approx 125000 miles.
Recently, the truck started an issue. its an every once in awhile thing but has been doing it more recently. The OD light will start flashing and the vehicle will start to have clunking in the tranny and start shifting rough. ABS kicks in making it hard to stop. Once you turn the truck off and back on, Its fine until it does it again. Im connecting to a scanner tomorrow to see if i get any codes.
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Driving to work the other day my transmission shifted down and the transmission light started blinking. It felt like it geared down like it was in 4x4 I was doing about 55 at about 2600 RPMs. This has happened twice now and lasted around 2 minutes then stopped and ran great.
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I have a 2006 F350 SRW 4WD 6.0 with 127000 miles on it. A couple of weeks ago it, pulling out of my driveway, it hesitated and tow haul started flashing. I had codes pulled and it showed P1780, P0751, and P2700. After turning off, codes were gone and tow haul off. Ran fine since then every day. Yesterday while going about 50 mph it started acting like it was in neutral (revving up), nothing happened when mashing the accelerator. Coasted to a driveway and truck would not move, only sounded like it was in neutral.
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I am new to being an F250 owner. Just recently purchased a 2000 F250 SD 4x4 with the 5.4 and a 5 speed trans. Got a pretty good deal on it, because I knew some work had to be put into it, and do plan on dropping the trans. Currently, if the truck has been sitting for a little bit, not cool, but not running for a little bit, when I start it, whether it is in gear or in neutral, there is a noise coming from what seems to be the clutch area.
After a couple minutes of driving, this noise goes away and all sounds as it should. A little bit of researching turned up the possibility of the throw out bearing being bad, however, I found other posts online that doubt this. Another symptom that I assume is connected is that if I go to put it in reverse at 0mph from neutral, it grinds.
In order to go into reverse, I have to press in the clutch, put it in first, then put it in reverse, at which point it goes in no problem. I had already planned on replacing the clutch because it seems to me that would be the logical choice as to where the problem originates, so no issue there. But perhaps I'm wrong??
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this morning my 02 decided to turn the ABS light on, and start bouncing the speedometer. plus, the OD light is flashing when stopped with foot on the brakes, but the trans is shifting fine.
nothing changed on the truck except almost 3 inches of rain fell last night.
will AE tell me if the VSS is going bad?
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Rebuilt trany after losing all gears filled the tranny and while cycling through the gear everything seemed to fine took it around the block topped off the fluid and went for a drive and it will not shift out of second and i lost reverse. What did i do wrong?
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I recentlyHad to replace the right front wheel bearing and after the install the speedometer and turn signals don't work, the ABS light is on and the overdrive light on the shifter is flashing. I've replaced the VSS on the rear diff, pulled and cleaned Speed sensors on front hub?
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I know this has been done to death, but on my '08 F250 XL I can't seem to get the truck to enter into the programming mode to program some fobs to it. I've done the cycling business and the best I get is a flashing light on the dash of the truck with a little lock on it, but nothing else. Can you not program the XL? Is there a major step I am missing?
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1998 F-250 LD 4x4 463,000 km.
My truck begins to flash the OD light after driving about 10 km. So I borrowed a friend's scan tool and got a P0503, and P1500. So having been pointed to the vehicle speed sensor, I connected TORQUE and watched closely vehicle speed. Driving at a steady 80 kph it will jump rapidly up and down, from about 72-92, while the gauge in the instrument cluster reads a calm and steady 80.
Which sensor and wiring do I need to inspect? Rear diff or on the back of transfer case? Oh, and the ABS light is NOT on.
Sent from Nexus 4. IB AutoGroup
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2000 F250 V10 Auto/Rebuilt Tranny... This weekend, I noticed my truck wasn't shifting at lower RPMs like it has been. I'm not hitting much higher RPMs per shift then normal. Very soon after, I get a "Service Engine Soon" light and my "OD OFF" light on my shifter handle started flashing.
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1999 f-250 7.3 diesel. Speedometer doesn't work and neither does the odometer, the ABS light stays on and once you start driving the OD light starts flashing and the truck starts shifting weird. I've changed the rear ABS/VSS sensor on the diff and the OSS on top of the transmission at the tail end. Still no luck.....
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I have the dreaded flashing O/D light on my early 99 F350 7.3 4x4 auto. The only one's that seem to be consistently recommended are Snap-On or AutoEnginuity.
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Tonight i noticed overdrive flashing. No changes in shifting, truck shifted fine. I shut it off when i got home, started back up, light was not blinking, not sure if its like the check engine light and stays on or not. Where light blinks but shifts fine?
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OK, quick question. I have an '03 250 with the 5.4 and the OD light began flashing tonight. I looked in the forums here and everyone say's new tranny or sensor but over on the diesel forums the are saying that the alternator is a big cause of this (dirty power).
At the beginning of this year I noticed what I assumed to be a misfire when putting the motor under a load. Once up to speed it would smooth out and all was good. I was told that a plug job on these trucks is hellish and expensive since a lot of guys break the plugs off in the block. I put it off and the issue went away when the weather warmed up.
Now it's getting cold again and the misfire is back. Driving home tonight the truck died at a light. I restarted it and as I accelerated I noticed a difference in the shift from first to second and then saw the OD light blinking.
Again, the diesel guys are all talking alternator so my question is this: could the alternator cause both the OD light to flash AND the misfire? If the "dirty power" can cause the tranny to fall in to safe mode, can it also cause the ignition to be problematic?
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We have a 2008 f250 super duty with the 5.4 triton well ever since I replaced the power steering pump its been running raggedly, it idles rough and when i get up to 50, 55, 60 the check engine light comes on i put a diagnostic reader on it and said something along the lines of ECU bank 1 an Bank 2. What that is and I've been a mechanic for almost 3 years.
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Overdrive light started flashing this week on my 2000 F450 7.3 mason dump. It only does it when it shifts into 4th gear once it hits that gear at about 35mph the overdrive light flashes until you restart the truck and it resets. Does the same thing all the time but DOESN'T flash if i'm driving around town on back roads and never get to that gear. Could this be something minor besides the transmission starting to go? It drives and shifts fine even when the light is flashing. I wait to get the error code read?
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Looking for a diagram of where the transmission temp sensor is found ..... I have a 2005 f 250 5.4l FX4.... My tow haul light keeps flashing...
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I have an 04 F250 4x4 king ranch with a 6.8 V10.
When I first bought this truck it had a problem of stalling out at stops. You could sometimes hold the brake and gas and push your way through it but it would sputter for a second and try to die and then it was fine once you got going. The OD light would flash, check engine light would come on and it would throw a P0720 code for the OSS. I did some researching and I pulled the sensor in the pumpkin before that because I read that could cause the same problem, so I cleaned it and put it back but it didn't solve the issue. Then found that an K&N air filter can often times clog the MAF and cause the issue so I pulled my air filter and sure enough it was a K&N, I swapped it with a normal filter and sprayed some MAF cleaner and its been running like a top for months... until now.
It started again, gradually at first. It would die when I started to back the truck at a very low speed to load my 4 wheeler. I fired it up and it was good again for a couple more weeks, then I went to hook to a horse trailer and I was having to back up a hill to get to it, and it just kept dying, OD light would flash, check engine light came on. I was in a bind so I just tried wiping off the MAF with a rag, that didn't work, my girlfriend was using the truck and said it kept dying whenever she stopped. I got it home and cleaned the MAF with cleaner really well but the problem persisted. I went ahead and changed my oil, spark plugs(gaped at .052-.054), replaced the IAC(which looked like it had been installed once before so I am guessing someone tried it and when it didn't fix the problem they returned it) and changed the fuel filter. I drove it around and it ran fine, drove it to work and it ran fine, my girlfriend took it for about 15 minutes to run an errand for me and it was fine until she got back in the parking lot and liked to never got it parked again it stalled so much.
So I went back to the drawing board and read that it is rarely the OSS that is the problem but that often times the issue is a bad coil pack. I don't have a scanner nor do I know how the heck to use one. I plan on going out of town at the end of the week and the truck has 194k miles on it so rather then take it to a shop and try to find out which COP was bad I just decided to replace all of them(I know, I know, you should never just start replacing parts). I only had time to replace 5 of them, I took the truck out and again it dove fine for an hour, went through traffic OK. It sat for an hour and when I left it started to die again, I could drop it in neutral and it would fire back up and as long as I gave it just a hair of throttle it stayed running fine, take my foot off the fuel and in a minute it would die again. After I drove for a bit it was fine again. Now I know the problem may yet be in the remaining 5 COP that I must change tonight but in case it is not I wanted to get input on this.
I've read the problem can come from a bad ground, so I took every ground point that I could find under the hood and I cleaned the connectors and took the paint off at the connection site just for good measure. The problem persists. I've read that sometimes a diode can go out on the alternator and cause this problem, I did use my amp meter and I'm checking out at 13 volts while running. I'm not the best with meters so I'm not sure how else to check the diode?
I've also read that taking it to a dealership is hit or miss for them diagnosing the problem, sometimes they find the issue, sometimes they just change the OSS. The only mechanic I trust closed his shop and is now service manager of the Dodge dealership. I'm thinking since this seems to be a common problem that maybe ford might have more knowledge of it then dodge but I trust the dodge dealership more because of who is over it. Either way I know it will sit in a dealership for awhile before it ever gets looked at and if they have to chase any electrical problems then that starts racking up $$ fast.
So what am I missing? I've thought about replacing the MAF since cleaning it the first time solved the problem. When it did this the first time I still had my 01 F250(it never gave me problems like this) and so I took the MAF off of it and swapped them and sure enough it fixed my problem so I switched them back after I cleaned the MAF and like I said it's been running fine until recently. I'd rather not throw money at this by replacing parts and hoping for the best. I've also read about tracing the harness that runs from the sensor on the pumpkin to the OSS and on. That harness runs through all kinds of stuff so I'm dreading that but it will also be a next step. I haven't pulled the OSS because its in a very awkward position on my truck.
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I have a 99 f450 and the od light flashes when the truck is in low range. I have to shut the truck off when I put it back in high range to get it to stop. It won't flash again till I use low range again. whats going on?
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