Ford Super Duty (1999-2016) :: O/D Button Working Inverted - RPMs Drop
Jun 7, 2016
Push the o/d button to turn off, light on shifter comes on as off...and the rpms drop.
Push the button again (turning O/D on) and the rpms increase. It appears its working 180 degrees opposite of proper.
Example to clarify...going down hill at speed, push the O/D off button and as before working correctly the rpms would increase allowing the engine to aid in some braking.
That is now 180 degrees opposite. Push that button while descending and the rpms drop like it got thrown into neutral.
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I'll try not to post an entire book.. But I bought a 2000 F250 not even 8 months ago, it did have issues before but I changed out the spark plugs and coils and it fixed it's original missing issues.. I also just recently changed the fuel filter but it didn't fix it's new problem.. It drives ok around town but if I get over 35 mph it doesn't run well... If I try to keep a steady foot on the gas but don't get the RPMs over 2000, the RPMs will stay where they're at for just a second then they will drop down and the whole truck starts shaking.. I push more on the gas and it shakes even more and the RPMs don't move at all until I really step on it.. It lacks in power going up hills as well... The dealership i bought it from said the Catalytic Converter was bad but my uncle who is a mechanic says it isn't.. It's the first vehicle I've bought so kinda wanna make it last..
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Last year I bought a used '99 F350 w/ ~$135K miles on it. I later noticed that when I pressed on the Overdrive button (automatic transmission) which is on the steering column gear change lever, nothing happened. The overdrive light did not come on and the gear did not change to overdrive.
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The Sync is not connecting any longer to my IPhone 6. I push the phone button on the navigation system and it does not bring up the phone screen/menu. It is a dead button now.
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2016 F250 with less than a 1K miles and the power steering all but stopped working at low RPMs. Once it got going it would start working again.
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I have a 2000 f250 5.6 v8 with around 104k miles. yesterday I noticed the oil gauge drop to zero and the light came on. then, it went back up to normal. after a few minutes it did it again. I parked in the driveway and checked the oil. it was gone! dipstick was dry. there are no leaks as far as I can tell and it hasn't been burning oil. it was running fine and I was surprised to even see the dash light come on. What could be the cause of this?
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How to replace the 2 "drop down" rubber brake lines on a '13 250. They appear to be secured to the bracket that looks like is the bracket that's holding the DEF tank on. And by the quick look without much digging in appears as though I have to take the DEF tank out or significantly loosen it to get at them. I'm no neophyte when it comes to this stuff and will take the DEF tank out of necessity, was just wondering.
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How to fix a broken drop tab on my 06 super duty driver door panel.
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I just purchased a 2012 F250 XLT with the 6.2. It has 38,000 miles on it. Yesterday I noticed, when coming to a stop, the idle will sometimes drop below 500. The engine will stumble a little, then the RPM will jump up to 1,000. Twice it has stalled on me. When it stalls, the engine will restart just fine. No codes in the computer or warning lights on the dash.
I will be bringing it back to carmax, as it is under their 30 day warranty still. Hopefully they will be able to figure out something. I am thinking either the TB needs to be cleaned, or there is an issue with the canister purge valve. I saw the TSB for the CPV but it doesn't cover my truck.
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I have an 03 f350 4x4 cc long bed and I seem to be having a problem with my fuel gauge. It doesn't show the true amount of what's in the tank and because of that I have run out of fuel a few times.
sometimes when I'm driving the light will come on and the gauge will drop all the way to empty then a little later it will go to almost full even with only putting 10 gals in the tank.
Any fix for this or do I need to replace the sending unit?
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I have got a new 4 button key fob for my 05 F350. How to program this unit for the keyless entry and the remote starter.
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It's a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test well. Tested plug c1048 wires with the digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the EPC solenoid bad or is it pcm? I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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I tow 10-15K; 6-10x per month with this truck. I can feel the braking ability starting to drop off so I want to get them done pretty quick. I am more or less happy with OEM performance but if there is a better value, and with my SO starting to haul the horse trailer around.. I wouldn't mind upgrading.
What is worth the money? I'm fresh out of school trying to figure out what the best value is.
Calipers?
Rotors?
Pads?
Brake Lines?
What would provide me with a noticeable improvement without breaking the bank?
Last question, could worn rotors cause vibration/shaking in the steering (primarily when turning ramps) at 50-60mph? Tires are brand new, problem showed up before they were replaced.
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I'm planning on doing a 2" level. Will I need a drop pitman arm, or can I stick with the stock pitman arm? Will I need anything else? I plan on doing the level when I replace my coil springs and shocks. (I have another thread on that). I'm driving a 2000 F250 V10 2WD CC SB (twin I-beam front axle) if that info is pertinent to this question.
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Just noticed today that my cruise control on/off button is sticking. Push to off it stays pushed off, push it up to on and it stays up so i must physically center it myself. Is there a way to remove the button and take it apart to clean and regrease the contacts so it doesnt stick? Kinda dumb actually since i might have used it eight or ten times since buying the truck new....
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Its a 1999 f250sd 5.4l auto. Has code p1747. Truck shudders and almost dies when you drop it in gear, put it back in park idles fine. I have read all the post on here about this and checked wires from trans up to pcm look and test good. Tested plug c1048 wires with digital meter to body ground with battery unhooked and got 6.66k ohms on pin 11 circuit 925, 421 ohms pins 1 and 12. Plugged c1048 back to trans checked 925 w/y wire at plug c103 got 9.1 ohms back to trans. Is the epc solenoid bad or is it pcm. I think its epc but want to verify before i take trans apart.
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I have a 2005, f350 6.0. I am new to owning a diesel and have a lot to learn. My truck runs excellent and has no issues,until I push the tow haul button in! It starts bucking at 2,000rpm and my rpm's shoot down to a low rpm and jump back up to a higher rpm. It's like the truck wants to shift but the tow haul is enabling it so it falls on its face i have never heard a truck or seen a truck act like this, but everyone says you don't want to pull with an automatic without the tow haul. I have just been leaving the tow haul off and the ruck pulls just fine.
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ok this is my first diesel ever its an 01 7.3 powerstroke 250 4x4 . with 4 inch exhaust and used to have a programmer on it but it is supposedly back to stock. so I can be driving say in 4th gear and just hit the on button for cruise control without cruise being on and my boost will go from like 15 to 30lbs pretty quickly.... why on earth would it do this the previous owner was an old man who pulled horse trailers and had no clue why either ???
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I've got a 2003 F250, SD, 5.4L Triton that I've owned since new. It has 205,000 kms on it and has run flawlessly since owning it.
Yesterday I went to use the truck after it sitting for about 2 weeks, which isn't uncommon for this time of year as I'm in the landscaping business. It never sits long, though as I make a point of using all the trucks, periodically, just to "blow the stink off" as my Dad would say.
Anyway, when I fired it up the gauge was drop-dead below "E" so I go to fill it up and it takes in fuel and it won't take a drop more. I got under the truck and knocked on the tank in various spots and the tank seems almost plum full.
When I power the truck off and back on, all the gauges come to life and settle on their appropriate readings, except for the fuel gauge. It powers up to full and then drops to below "E" as though I had turned the truck off again.
My question is, am I reasonably safe to assume my sending unit has bitten the dust? I figured that since the gauge comes to life upon startup and then drops to "E" after the rest of the gauges initialize, the fuel gauge itself probably isn't the problem?
Is there a chance that as I drive it over the next few days, and the tank empties, maybe the "sloshing" of fuel might dislodge a stuck part?
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Just changed the oil in my 6.0 and I'm sitting here looking at my tuner and is telling me my idle rpms are about 770.
Before I changed my oil it idled around 750.
It's running fine, I was just wondering why it changed? More pressure to the injectors with the newer oil?
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What this could be? It blinks all the time was on the truck when I got it. Has a button in the bottom of it. This is on a 2009 super duty 250 and the 6.4 L if that matters.
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